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I’ve got dimples in my quarter after CBR 4 link install and dse tubs. Frame stiffeners were installed with weight on the car. Not really sure there’s anything that can be done about it till I repaint the the car. Anybody else have this issue and any simple remedies?
 

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Way back in time(actually 18 years ago). I made a 4 link for my Nova sinced at the time there were no companies offering anything. I noticed the dimples you speak of. I think it comes from the change of support on the rear of the car. The rear previously was supported by the ends of the leaf springs. This created upward pressure on the very rear of the car. That most rearward support is gone with any 4 link once there is no leaf spring in the back of the car. My solution was to weld an anchor support on the rear trunk floor close to the bumper area and frame. I welded another support at the top of the wheel tub. I made a strut bar with adjustable heim joints. Installed the bar and tightened (shortened) the length. This took the dimples away totally.
 

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I had the same problem after mini tubs and TCI Torque Arm, and just had the body and paint done. I didn't do any structural mods. I hope they don't come back??!!
 

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I had the same problem after mini tubs and TCI Torque Arm, and just had the body and paint done. I didn't do any structural mods. I hope they don't come back??!!
Sadly I’m 2 years away from paint.
 

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Way back in time(actually 18 years ago). I made a 4 link for my Nova sinced at the time there were no companies offering anything. I noticed the dimples you speak of. I think it comes from the change of support on the rear of the car. The rear previously was supported by the ends of the leaf springs. This created upward pressure on the very rear of the car. That most rearward support is gone with any 4 link once there is no leaf spring in the back of the car. My solution was to weld an anchor support on the rear trunk floor close to the bumper area and frame. I welded another support at the top of the wheel tub. I made a strut bar with adjustable heim joints. Installed the bar and tightened (shortened) the length. This took the dimples away totally.
May have to check into that.
 

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This has been seen with many of the 4-links out there regardless of who’s brand....a guaranteed way to get the dimple is to install using a 2 post lift, because the car is hanging at both end the shape becomes set into the body.
 

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This has been seen with many of the 4-links out there regardless of who’s brand....a guaranteed way to get the dimple is to install using a 2 post lift, because the car is hanging at both end the shape becomes set into the body.
Not saying anything bad about CBR at all. 4 link is great! I had heard of this issue that’s why they made sure that the car was on all fours when welded. It’s just my luck lol.
 

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Where do the dimples show up? Pics? I installed a heidt's 4 link on my convertible about 3 years ago and I didn't see any changes in the quarters thankfully.
 

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The buckling is evident in the quarter panel area forward of the wheel opening where the quarter glass retracts into. They also distort in this area if rear end collision damage has occurred. The frame rail kinks at the top of the axel tunnel and pushes upward as the quarter panel is bent downward.. The bare metal area in the pic is where the buckling is usually visible.. This car had a pancake of body filler in the area..
 

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I was at a car show yesterday and came across two first gen cars. Without looking under the cars to see what they had for rear suspension, I knew they were a 4 link. How? Both had the dimples on the quarter panels. In talking to one of the owners, he revealed that the dimples weren't there before and they happened later in the driving history of the car. Both are high dollar cars with body and paint of a high caliber that were obviously very straight quarter panels at one time. I believe the dimpling occurred as a result of driving more that anything with the rear of the car now unsupported. With leaf springs they support the rear weight of the body. Remove that support and the rear weight is not supported and has a fulcrum point of the coil over or air spring.

Hold your arm straight out. Support your elbow with your other hand. Now bounce your extended arm up and down. Your forearm and hand can move because of the weight being unsupported. Now place your hand under your extended arm's hand and repeat. More rigid isn't it?

I'm not sure if the 66-67 cars have a more rigid structure and are not subject to the dimpling. Either way, this is a 4 link issue with first gen cars in my experience. Doesn't matter who the 4 link is made by, it is not a design error of anyone. Even GM is not to blame since the car does not have an issue as designed when the suspension type they have designed is used.

When I built my 65 a long time ago and before it hit the street, I sat on the rear trunk opening and could hear the quarter panel make a noise. Repeating sitting and not sitting, I could make the panel do an oil can like flexing. It was a good thing I had the radio off and better hearing than I do today. Had I driven the car the dimples would have appeared without a doubt.
 

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..... My solution was to weld an anchor support on the rear trunk floor close to the bumper area and frame. I welded another support at the top of the wheel tub. I made a strut bar with adjustable heim joints. Installed the bar and tightened (shortened) the length......
Would you post a pic of your brace? Wondering where you positioned it relative to body panel.
 

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This is a great thread. As soon as Shane started to describe the unsupported rear of the car, I knew exactly what the issue was. I can see how the top of the frame rail where the coil overs mount would become a fulcrum point for the car to flex. Any amount of weight in the back of the car such as a stereo setup, or even regular everyday items would be catastrophic during no regular driving.

Back in my days of low rider trucks, guys running four link setups and notching the frame for axle clearance would run into similar issues. Those that didn’t run four link setups and retained the leaf springs often had issues with the aftermarket bolt-in frame notches cracking. I always made my own notches constructed of 1/4” plate to support the frame rail at the “flex” point.

Having said all that, a good fix might be cutting out some plate steel the length of the rear frame rails and skinning both sides of the rails.



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....I'm not sure if the 66-67 cars have a more rigid structure and are not subject to the dimpling.....
Would be interesting to hear from this group a little more and how much of an issue it might be. My 66 hasn't dimpled (TCI TQArm) but it's hardly been driven much yet because its not finished. And I've not had more than 5 gal of gas in the tank either.
 

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I toyed with the idea of adding a 4-link setup under my 65. Glad I stumbled across this thread, i never even thought about the possibility of this happening even though I should have known from previous truck builds.

I can’t imagine kinking my factory original quarter panels.

Funny how we all consider stiffening these cars with frame connectors and such, but totally miss this area. Lol



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I sold the car 14 years ago but I was able to find a picture of the trunk strut I made. I raised the upper attachment point for a higher angle. Once I welded in the brackets I tightened up the link. I mini tubbed the wheel housing so it has a little more real estate for the upper mount to weld on. There is a strut rod on each side. The idea of stiffening up the sheet metal frame by adding plates on each side would work as well. With today's water jet and laser cutting machines this would be easier then when those types of machines weren't available. I could see a market for a company to start making these since they would fit all the 62-67 cars. The sheet metal fame was OK in it's day but add 50 years to these cars with possibly deteriorated metal and the removal of the rear support when the leaf spring is removed.

P3170008.jpg
 

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I don't know about other brands designs but I installed the heidts 4 link on my convertible without issues. Looking at the picture of the kit you can see how the upper shock mount crossmember bolts or welds across the frame rails covering the section over the axle. This strengthens the frame rails. I don't haul 80 pound bags of concrete around in the trunk but I do sit my 220 pound butt on the trunk/rear bumper and haven't developed dimples yet. Completed my install four years and 15K miles ago.

https://www.heidts.com/part/62-67-chevy-2-nova-rear-4-link-suspension/
 

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This has been seen with many of the 4-links out there regardless of who’s brand....a guaranteed way to get the dimple is to install using a 2 post lift, because the car is hanging at both end the shape becomes set into the body.
Thats a good heads up, thanks for that info, I'll make sure that doesn't happen. It's something you don't think about until it's to late.
 
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