My 66 Granny Mobile

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I think everyone looks at the LS series engine now, but the required support systems: fuel injection and the electronics hold them off? Are you retaining the original front suspension and transmission? Thanks in advance for any ideas on these.

I am retaining the front suspension until I have the money to put an upgrade in the car. I am getting rid of the three speed on the column and either swapping in a Muncie m22 Rock crusher or going with the 4 l 6-0 e I haven't quite decided yet I would really like to maintain the manual feel of the car however I have come across an extremely good deal on a 4 l 6-0 e what to do...

The “E” on the end of 4160 means electronic control, it will require a computer.
The original computer and wiring assy from your donor vehicle will work, but that is a major job. Did you get the electronics with your motor?

I have no problem with the technical portions of any job. Just problems with having enough money.

Got the motor all painted up, heads are just set on the block for a picture, buying gaskets tomorrow to put it all back together. I am trying to keep everything American made, are there any cheaper options for head gasket sets? Does anyone have an opinion as to what head set I should use if I plan on adding a bit of boost? Also I plan on head studs and ARP rod bolts( overkill for an n/a motor I know but for future proofing) any other future proofing advice? sorry for the long wait for an update, been working crazy hours.

Engine bay done. Also I found out the motor I bought has a tsp stage three cam in it

Update: I finally finished the motor rebuild. The heads that came in the motor ended up being eaten away at the water jacket from only running water( don't do this, in aluminum engines, electrolysis and aluminum oxidation from constant contact with water cause the aluminum to break down) there were holes in the heads. I bought a set of 706s, put in ls6 valves, new valve guides, and cleaned the piss out of them. Then I pulled the lifters, checked them out, re-oiled them and re-insralled. Be careful of the bolts for the lifter trays (torque is 8 lbs) . Put in new rear main seal, new front seal, whole set of top end gaskets, I used felpro, MLS head gaskets, steel intake gasket, the set was :FEL-HS26190PT4. The valve stem seals in this kit will not work for 863 head's, I got really lucky, because they worked for the new head's I bought. I built a hot tank for the intake. It was caked with sludge, so I got a clean 30 gallon trashcan, ran a hose from my water heater, and filled it up with the intake and about 2 cups of extra strength Dawn dish liquid. I put an 18 in extension on my drill with a toilet brush looking attachment on the end. I ran the brush inside the main ram inside the hot water for about an hour. After that I cleaned the outside of the intake while in the water with the same method. I used carb and choke cleaner on the runners with a different bit. (DO NOT USE STEEL WIRE BRUSH USE ONLY NYLON OR SOMETHING SOFTER THAN THE PLASTIC IN THE INTAKE)
After all of that I used carb and choke cleaner on the TB then painted it. I painted the intake, then installed. The motor is ready to go in. The engine bay is completely prepped. I bought a clutch pedal assymbly and a hydraulic throw ought bearing from speedway, I am using an ls6 flywheel and an ls2 pilot bearing, with a SBC bellhousing, mating it to the Saginaw 4 speed going in the car. I engineered the shifter linkage myself, the trans has the stock Hurst shifter out of a Chevelle as. I am using the seats from a 2007 corvette. I still have to work the harness, but she is coming together, slowly but aurely.
cheers boys!

An update

Old motor on the right, completed installation of the 5.3l lm7 706 heads ls6 valve springs, tsp love lift stage 3 cam, Saginaw 4 speed, speedway hydraulic throwought and master cylinder, wilwood clutch pedal on the left... Now... Just add gas...

Here is a video of the beast screaming