Engine combo try #2 AFR 195-383 sbc. - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 10th-June-2008, 02:17 PM   #1
bitterman
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Question Engine combo try #2 AFR 195-383 sbc.

-383 sbc using 14010207 block and Scat 40760BI rotating assembly put me about 9.8:1 compression ratio. It will be zero decked using .041 head gasket to provide a good quench.
-AFR 195 heads (75cc combustion chamber) 280 CFM @ .550
-Edelbrock Perfromer RPM AirGap intake
-VOODOO SBC RETROFIT HYD ROLLER 282 #60112 231/239 @0.050 282/289 Advertised and .535/.550" lift LSA 110 Intake Center Line 106
-750 vacume secondard carb. Not sure what one yet. But 650 will be too small
-1 5/8" headers with 3" collectors out to 2 1/2" free flowing exhaust.

Any opinions on how this should run? Anyone else out there running a lunati hyrollic roller?

Will the Performer RPM Air Gap wiht carb and air filter fit under a stock 68 hood?

What oil pan woudl be good to use for this application? fo the 80-85 block in a 68 nova and still have clearance for the 3.75" crank and h beam rods?

Thanks,
Bruce
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Old 10th-June-2008, 02:59 PM   #2
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motor

My 2 cents worth!
1. If you are going to the expanse's of installing a roller cam , I see no advantage of running a hydraulic roller when a solid roller has more advantages(weight).
2. I would try to bump your compression to around 10.2-10.3
You might as well get as much compression as you can get
away with before detonation.
3. Use a 0.039 head gasket at 0 deck.
4. Get a good oil pan with scraper and clearance for stroker.
5. Make sure your using 7/16 studs.
6. A good V/S 750 will be fine.
7. Take a serious look at your cooling system, might not be
capable of cooling your new engine.
Mike
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Old 10th-June-2008, 03:13 PM   #3
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My main reason for hydrolic roller is to decrease wear and any metal in the engine. I will be driving the car to the track and its about an hour drive, otherwise, I'd go straight hydrolic as the wife won't give me the time to setup the valves before a cruz.... LOL. Figured going that way would take care of things and prolong the life of the cam due to less wear.

For cooling I am going with an aluminum 2 row 1" or 1.25" rad for my ride (water pump is a high flow unit with anti capitation impeller). Currently the old rad is garbage and being replaced when the new engine goes in, I'm also going with electric fans, TBD after I order all the engine parts, so I ensure its high enough CFM rating to handle the HP the engine will put out.

My problem with the compression ratio is based on flat top pistons with 5cc valve reliefs.. the problem is the head come in either 65cc or 75cc chambers.

Thanks,
Bruce
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Last edited by bitterman; 10th-June-2008 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 10th-June-2008, 04:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bitterman View Post
My main reason for hydraulic roller is to decrease wear and any metal in the engine. I will be driving the car to the track and its about an hour drive, otherwise, I'd go straight hydraulic as the wife won't give me the time to setup the valves before a cruz.... LOL.

My problem with the compression ratio is based on flat top pistons with 5cc valve reliefs.. the problem is the head come in either 65cc or 75cc chambers.

Thanks,
Bruce
I think you missed the message, running a roller is a good idea, but why not go with the solid roller? Adjusting solid actuated valves roller or flat tappet pretty much went away a long time ago. Screw in rocker studs helped out, once you set the valves you can forget about them until you change the oil again. May be a bit louder but you don't have to adjust them all the time like the old days.

You may get into a better C/R with the 65cc vs. the 75cc with flat top pistons. My guess is you will be 9 to 1 or lower with 75cc and flat tops.
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Old 10th-June-2008, 05:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
My main reason for hydrolic roller is to decrease wear and any metal in the engine. I will be driving the car to the track and its about an hour drive, otherwise, I'd go straight hydrolic as the wife won't give me the time to setup the valves before a cruz.
There is really no difference in wear between a solid roller and hydraulic roller; and as far as adjusting valves, I do mine every couple years--and when I finally get around to doing it, they are pretty much the way I set them the first time. The solid is usually good for a few more horsepower and lot more rpm.
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Old 10th-June-2008, 05:53 PM   #6
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According to my math and a few compression ratio calculators on the net the 75 cc heads give about 9.79:1 with a 0.041" head gasket and 9.84 with the 0.039" head gasket...I was hoping to go with 10:1 but the rotating assemble etc ends up there with flat top pistons. they has 5cc valve reliefs.

With 65 cc heads compression ratio is about 10.9:1 and a little over pump gas territory for me. I know with the right cam etc to bleed off cylinder pressure it can be done, but I'm not going that route. I want to keep my quench nice and tight, so can't just drop the piston in the hole or use a thicker head gasket to drop the compression ratio.

Thanks for the tip on going full roller.. I was under the impression you had to set the valves really often still. Hmmmm now I'm thinking.... Only problem is full rollers seam to have such higher lift I want to minimize lift to about .550 max to make things live longer on the street.... hmmm guess I'd need to order the heads with different springs then... I know the AFR springs that are on them are fine for this cam according to Lunati's tech, who sugested the cam.

Bruce
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Old 10th-June-2008, 06:48 PM   #7
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cam

Here's a cam I'm getting ready to install.
It might suit your needs, I'm sure there are others.
Good duration without a lot of lift, easy on valve springs.
WWW.dougherbert.com cam CCC6PJ
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Old 10th-June-2008, 06:52 PM   #8
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exhaust

i would think you might benefit from larger primary tube on the headers.
im building a lower flow 383 and using the 1 5/8 headers, but those AFR heads flow well and the 1 5/8 seems a bit small.

if you do go 15/8 consider the summit ceramics- rumor is- they may be hedman. either way- ~$178 for them.

383 with afrs should run well.
what are you shooting for? ~450-475hp at the crank?

why not a DP carb?
engine combo sounds good.

steve
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Old 10th-June-2008, 08:05 PM   #9
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I already have the 1 5/8 headers off the old motor and was going to use them for now till I upgrade and could afford coated headers... for the carb I might actually go DP, just not sure yet was hoping to come by something used for a good price locally.

I'm hoping for an honest 450hp with a nice torque curve. Performance trend comes out ar about 500hp peaking at 6000-6200 RPM.... I was hoping for a 5800 RPM peak to limit my RPM and piston speed ....... given the numbers 450 should be a reasonable goal.

Those solid rollers sure look like they would pound the valve spring on the seats hard, but the specs woudlmake a ton of extra power.

Bruce
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Old 10th-June-2008, 09:47 PM   #10
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My little 355" with a "little" HR runs OK. (custom ground)
I agree the solid will give ya more up top but you better change the valve springs to match it.

Oh yeah, I also have AFR'S REV kit (start the flames) in there. It will rev to 7k, just won't make it quicker.

I found that out at the track. Started shifting lower each pass the It started in to the 11's.

5900 was the shift point that worked best.

I'm using .015" steel shims on my motor. Helps with the Quench area. I think my pistons were down .02" in the hole so I had to something.

Your 383 should go good!

Good luck with the build.

Chris
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Old 11th-June-2008, 03:45 AM   #11
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motor

Something else and I'm assuming that this is a fresh motor , I noticed that you said that you was going to run coated headers-DON"T break in your new motor with your high dollar coated headers use uncoated headers then after "break in" switch.
My .02 worth Mike
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Old 11th-June-2008, 07:20 AM   #12
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You don't need to 'break-in' a motor with a roller cam....
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Old 11th-June-2008, 09:02 AM   #13
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10.9 on aluminum heads and 93 octane is a non issue....

the 9.8 vs the 10.9 comp.. is worth about 30hp and a much better sound



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Old 11th-June-2008, 09:51 AM   #14
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Those 1 5/8's headers will work real nice for that combo ecs on a 383 and will give you a nice amount of torque you will feel down low where you will use it on the street and still breath well, you will give up a little hp up top but you will be happy with them.
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Old 11th-June-2008, 09:59 AM   #15
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Quote:
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10.9 on aluminum heads and 93 octane is a non issue....

the 9.8 vs the 10.9 comp.. is worth about 30hp and a much better sound
LMAO........ I know..... I know LMAO but I have to keep things reasonable and keep things more street able. I would love to have the higher compression ratio, but 91 octain is normal high octain pump gas around here and 93/94 is very rare..... (sunoco has it) I can be mixing fuel and want to just not worry about detonation..... I can get e85 though and its 100-105 but would require a different carb, fuel lines, coated gas tank etc as it can be more corrosive then normal fuel and I'm screwed if I drive any place else if I go that route.

One of the guys here (I work with him) has a 383 flat top pistons /w 65cc AFR heads zero decked etc and he is mixing with race fuel as his car does not run right without it.... and his cam is in the 240's @ .050 and dumping some to help out. So I'm not going there. The wife will kill me if I need to purchase a $600 barrel of 114 race fuel ever couple months to mix with to make the car run right.

I'm not worried about loosing the 30hp either.... This will be more Hp then the car has ever had before, so it will be a on tires. The old tired 77 boat anchor 305 was not much of a performer with a 2 barrel carb so stepping up to this will be night and day.

Thanks,
Bruce
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