10DN to CS130 car won’t start - Page 2 - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 11th-September-2019, 10:50 AM   #16
Mike Goble
 
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On the schematic #13 there is a small red wire that is the on/off signal to the MSD-6. Where does this wire come from on your car? This is basically how your ignition is turned on and off. There is not much current draw, so most any voltage will keep the ignition going.

My thinking is that somehow there is a cross-connection between the brown lamp wire on your regulator connector and the control power to your MSD.
If the engine isn't running, the brown wire is grounded through the field. If you disconnect the brown wire this allows it to float up to 12v through the generator lamp/resistor and possibly providing the power to activate your MSD.

If I was troubleshooting this problem, I would disconnect the large wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor to keep the engine from turning over while I recreate all other aspects of that cycle. I would put a voltmeter on the small red wire going to the MSD, and read the voltage while I tried to start the engine, both with the alternator connected and without.
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Old 13th-September-2019, 07:56 AM   #17
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Thanks mike I will check
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Old 15th-September-2019, 03:16 PM   #18
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I just bypassed factory harness and ran a new wire from accessory to a indicator light then to L terminal on alternator and put S on bat+ post on alternator. Then ran 4 gauge wire from alternator positive and ground to battery now have 14.3v at 800 rpms.
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Old 16th-September-2019, 07:52 PM   #19
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You really don't need a 4 gauge to the battery from the alternator. The most current that should go that way is about 30 amps when it's heavily discharged. The original wire is quite sufficient for this as it's 10 gauge with a 14 gauge fusible link
The 4 gauge wire should go to your power distribution block, like the horn relay or other dedicated terminal. Running big wire from the alternator directly to the battery may result in a fire if you have a short.
Your alternator ground should be connected to the block, because when the alternator is running all current returns to the case of the alternator. Just bolting the alternator metal-to-metal to the block is good enough
The battery just starts the motor. When the engine is running, it's just a load on the alternator. If the motor turns over well on the starter, it's good.
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Old 16th-September-2019, 08:32 PM   #20
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I did run a ground from alternator to block I hate to take out all of 4 gauge wire do you think I could put a fuse inline on battery to alternator to protect from short and what size fuse would you recommend. Thanks
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Old 16th-September-2019, 09:24 PM   #21
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I did run a ground from alternator to block I hate to take out all of 4 gauge wire do you think I could put a fuse inline on battery to alternator to protect from short and what size fuse would you recommend. Thanks
Did you remove the stock 10 gauge wire? It has a 14 gauge fusible link in it.
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Old 17th-September-2019, 06:42 AM   #22
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No factory harness is still there
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Old 17th-September-2019, 07:47 AM   #23
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No factory harness is still there
You can just leave the 4 gauge disconnected at the battery end. The battery will charge just fine through the original circuit.
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Old 17th-September-2019, 08:08 AM   #24
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Will do Thanks Mike
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