Originally Posted by sf_hippie
I am talking about the rear leaf spring shackle bolts.
The first thing I did was pre-lube the rear shackle bolts with a generous amount of PB Blaster. I did need to use a breaker bar with a 6 point socket to loosen the shackle nuts. It's also easier to loosen the shackle nuts while the rear axle is still in place (the shackles will not swivel as much).
I remember when I removed the upper shackle bolts, I tried placing a long screw driver on the end of the bolt (but with the nut still attached to the end of the bolt) and hit the end of the screwdriver with a BMF hammer... but that didn't move the bolt. I then got a 1/2" thick x 1 1/2" wide x 4' long piece of metal bar stock and used this as a battering ram. What I did was to attach some heavy duty zip strip to one of the straps holding the gas tank so that it would hold the bar stock like a sling. I then angled the bar stock so it was up against the shackle bolt (with the nut still attached to the end of the bolt) and rammed the bolt loose.
Once the bolt was even with the shackle, I removed the nut and attached vice grips to the exposed end of the bolt and hit the vice grips with a hammer to free the bolts from the shackles.
Getting the leaf springs removes from the front spring eye brackets was a whole other issue. Once I removed the nuts, the bolts would not move no matter how hard I hit it. The spring eye bolt had seized itself to the metal sleeve within the front leaf spring bushing (probably due to east coast winters). I had to remove the spring eye brackets from the car and use a sawzaw (and a couple blades) to CAREFULLY
cut the bolts out of the brackets. I also had one heck of a time removing the 6 spring eye bracket bolts (3 on each side) that attach to the brackets to the car. The cage nuts are notorious for breaking when you try to loosen the bolts. I highly recommend spraying the nuts several times with some PB Blaster before attempting to loosen and remove.