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Old 29th-July-2019, 01:05 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sf_hippie View Post
I misunderstood your post #83. My bad.
Basically what I was referring to when I stated "The new wires came from the BCM harness of the '13 Camaro" in post #83 was the actual wires were donated from that harness. In other words, I did not have to buy new wires as I had lots of wires to chose from the Camaro's harness.
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Old 3rd-August-2019, 08:51 AM   #167
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Do you have any images related to which holes needed to be drilled and where? I am trying to use these and nothing is lining up with the instructions or how your install turned out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarantula View Post
The Subframe was dirty, which is to be expected. So with a clean engine and new parts on the way, It needed a bath. Degreaser and a rag was all that was needed. This paint (Truck bed coating) is awesome and if you recall when I painted this subframe, you can see it is very durable!



Just like others before me I opted for the Hooker LS Engine bracket kit (Part # 12618HKR) and clam shell mounts Part # 71221004HKR. The Inserts I bought were Energy Suspension part # 3.1116R



I painted the Spacer plates with the same truck bed coating as the subframe.



One hole had to be drilled into the subframe for each spacer plate (which was mentioned in the instructions for 73-74 models) to mount these with the four screws (each side). Unfortunately the screws supplied with the kit were too short (4 out of the 8) to even pass through my thick subframe metal and spacer plate. So I used 4 of the screws that was with my old mounts which are black oxide bolts (Not like the bolts supplied with the kit) The locknuts of the kit I did use as they fit my black oxide bolts.



I touched up the subframe a bit before fully installing the mounts. And after fighting to get the bolts in through confined spaces meant to get to the nuts, it looks great!



After that was done I decided to do wire cleanup. Since the LS3 engine is a standalone engine and has all its own wiring, a lot of the old melted useless factory wires had to go. I took off all of the wire looms and any wire no longer needed was removed from the Nova's engine harness. For the wires that were left, (which was only the Power wire and the starter trigger wire) I updated them with the Camaro wiring as I have all of the harnesses from the Camaro. And I also rerouted them so that they don't run towards the passenger side across the engine. This way no more worries about heat getting to them.

Here's what I removed.



The new wires came from the BCM harness of the '13 Camaro. The power wire was completely replaced with a much thicker power wire. The starter trigger wire was also replaced with a thicker wire.

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Old 3rd-August-2019, 11:49 AM   #168
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It took me a while to figure out the correct position of the plates as well. So I know why you ask.
The spacer plates have an angle on one side. Place this angle on the bracket that extends on the rear side of the subframe. Once you have the brackets correctly situated on the subframe with the angle resting on the subframe tabs, you will then see which hole needs to be drilled.

Note the arrows are pointing to the subframe tab I'm referring to and the other arrow is pointing to the engine mount spacer plate angle.
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Old 3rd-August-2019, 04:04 PM   #169
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That is basically what I went with today. Also having an issue with the bolts in the kit being short. That and getting to the nut by the control arms has been...fun.

Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate the work you have done on your ride.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarantula View Post
It took me a while to figure out the correct position of the plates as well. So I know why you ask.
The spacer plates have an angle on one side. Place this angle on the bracket that extends on the rear side of the subframe. Once you have the brackets correctly situated on the subframe with the angle resting on the subframe tabs, you will then see which hole needs to be drilled.

Note the arrows are pointing to the subframe tab I'm referring to and the other arrow is pointing to the engine mount spacer plate angle.
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Old 22nd-September-2019, 03:11 AM   #170
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Someone once told me...

"You will never be finished with the Nova"

And I have to admit, it holds true. I am constantly finding little things to do to it. I am always thinking to my self that I'm done, then I think of some other improvement.

I want to share one improvement that I shared in another thread. I feel that I should make the modification official by adding it to my build thread.

With the new seat, I always found that the seatbelt rode on my neck. This is very typical of classic cars because back then the seat belt mounting point has much higher. But I got tired of it and decided that it was time to make an improvement.
It started with my trip to the Dyno session. I was looking at the cars there waiting for tuning and noticed that a Mustang had a seat belt guide attached under the head rest. This prompted me to find one to adapt to my car/setup.

I started with a set of head rest seatbelt guides from 06-09 Pontiac G6.



This set did not work because my head rest spokes were wider than the part where the head rest is attached to. At first I thought of modding it by adding material but ended up giving up on this set because it was never going to look right.

Then further research led me to try one from a '11-17 Dodge challenger. This one worked with the width of my headrest, but I did not like that the slit for the belt was on the top of the loop and close to the headrest. The seatbelt slipped out easily and it just did not look right in the Nova with its large loop.



I finally found the set that worked. I purchased a set from '05-10 Chevy Cobalt. This one had a small loop and the slit for the belt was on the correct side and position to prevent the belt from sliding out of loop.



I have the ProCar seats (as shown in earlier post of this build thread) and so I made one extra hole on the Cobalt seat guide. I also had to swap the guides so that the Cobalt's passenger guide goes on my Driver side and the Cobalt's Driver side goes on my passenger side. This enabled the angle and position of the guide match the contours of the seats perfectly.

Here's a shot depicting the extra hole drilled on the Cobalt seatbelt guide. My Procar head rest was wider than on the Cobalt so I had to drill just one hole.




After it was installed the curvature of the guide loop follows the seat curve. Looks like it belongs. Very comfortable and I feel nice and secure. The belt no longer rides on my neck.



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Old 22nd-September-2019, 04:28 AM   #171
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Back in post #106 of this build thread, I show my new driveshaft that I had made for my setup.

Well this driveshaft had issues with vibration. So I sent it back to Denny's driveshaft to get rebalanced. Got it back and it still vibrated.

I ended up installing a Torque arm suspension and aligned my rear differential within half of a degree between the transmission and rear diff pinion. Still vibrated. For months I tried different angle measurements with shims under tranny mount and different angles of my diff pinion. Still vibrated.

So I took the driveshaft off and had it checked locally to see if the shaft vibrated. And yes. It did.
So I sent it back to Denny's Driveshaft and got a full refund.

I then had another driveshaft made using the same design from another driveshaft place that was local. I painted it the same color as my car and even purchased a new Sonnax flange. I was sure that this new second driveshaft was going to be perfect... or so I thought.



Unfortunately it vibrated again. This time the vibration took out my transmissions rear extension housing bushing.




To replace this bushing, its required to replace the entire housing. So I bought a new one along with a new transmission flange for the 6L80e transmission.





Here is what it looks like with extension housing removed from the 6L80e.



Here is the new one installed. I chose NOT to repaint it Red. Working with this part under the car was a royal pain in the behind and I wanted to get this fixed ASAP.



I then moved the slip joint part of the driveshaft to the rear differential side because I did not want to risk my new extension housing failing again.



But of course, the vibration continued but instead of it vibrating on the tranny side, it started to vibrate on the differential side. The vibration followed the slip joint. That lead me to believe it was not my adjustments of angles that was causing the issues with vibration. Its the driveshaft, specifically the slip joint portion of the shaft.

I did lots of research and I came across an article online that lead me to feel confident that it was not my adjustments of angles that was causing the issues with vibration. It had to be the driveshaft itself. Two driveshafts from two different companies had the same problems.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hot-...ain-vibration/

After reading the article, I concluded that its the driveshaft slip that is causing the vibrations. I contacted the Driveshaft Shop and asked about a custom CV driveshaft for my car.

Long story short, I purchased the new CV Driveshaft in 3.5 inch OD 6061 T6 Aluminum with front mounted German made GKN CV Joint from the Driveshaft shop and sent back the red slip joint driveshaft I just bought (and painted) and once again got a full refund.

A month later, the new Aluminum driveshaft came in from the Driveshaft shop and I could not wait to try this out.







This setup was definitely different. It has a new flange adapter setup that connects to the 3 bolt flange of the 6L80e and adapts to the new CV driveshaft. I had to take an allen wrench and modify it so that I could install it to my Nova. For the differential side of the shaft, it uses a 1350 U-Joint.





When installing it, I had to ensure that the driveshaft and the differential pinion was practically in line with each other. Very easy because I already had it set up practically straight with only half of degree. This ensured that the needle bearings of the U joint had some movement for lubrication but yet not move so much. For the transmission side, the CV joint would take care of any angles present, which was only a half of a degree. (Constant Velocity)
Basically I just removed my old driveshaft, and installed this new one without changing a single thing. My settings remained unchanged.

The results...
NO MORE VIBRATIONS! This proved to me that it was indeed the old driveshaft's design.
So my advice to all is to just get a CV driveshaft. Worth it!
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Last edited by Tarantula; 22nd-September-2019 at 05:03 AM.
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Old 22nd-September-2019, 10:22 AM   #172
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Cv ds

I used that exact unit on a 6L80 in my 65 Chevelle and it worked great NOT cheap but solves the 3 bolt flange problem if i did it again i would just upgrade to a slip yoke just depends where you spend the money.

After my L99 DOD/ AFM deletes i needed to upgrade my stall speed on the converter but i used a brian tooley stage 2 cam.

LS motor is just a great drive train!

Great Write UP !!

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Old 22nd-September-2019, 08:25 PM   #173
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Thanks for the info on the Cobalt seat belt support arms. They looks great!
I may need to update my 74 Nova from the homemade seat belt support arms I am currently using.
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Old 22nd-September-2019, 10:54 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snolan View Post
I used that exact unit on a 6L80 in my 65 Chevelle and it worked great NOT cheap but solves the 3 bolt flange problem if i did it again i would just upgrade to a slip yoke just depends where you spend the money.

Great Write UP !!
Thank you. You are right. Definitely wasn't cheap. But I feel I was pretty lucky to have worked with two previous driveshaft shops that allowed me to get a full refund for the driveshafts that did not work out.

I was dealing with the vibration from the very first time I went over 65 mph. So basically over a year been upset with the vibration issue. And this build is purposed for being a complete daily driver as an option. After such a long time, I was at the point that I was willing to spend whatever it took to get it resolved.
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Old 22nd-September-2019, 10:56 PM   #175
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Thanks for the info on the Cobalt seat belt support arms. They looks great!
I may need to update my 74 Nova from the homemade seat belt support arms I am currently using.
You are very welcome! I have said it before... I love to be of help and share my knowledge with others.
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Old 23rd-September-2019, 03:01 AM   #176
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Back in Post #122, I show the following picture as my finished engine bay. But...If you look closely, its missing one piece.



Notice the missing piece?

The Radiator Support panel is not installed. For this new engine bay, I decided that it was time to have a new radiator support panel.

If you have followed my previous build, you would have seen that I had to custom make a support panel because I have the heavy duty sized radiator, which is wider than the standard radiator in most Novas. From the factory, my Nova came with a custom factory made panel. So with this new engine bay I wanted to go back to the factory look.

So I first purchased two "Standard" Radiator support panels. The plan was to cut up both panels and mend them together to form one wider panel that matches what the factory did originally. So I made my measurements and used a chop saw to cut up the panels.



You can see my original first creation in that photo. And the new one I was creating. I made sure to make perfectly straight cuts so that the two pieces mated perfectly. I wanted to do as little body work as possible.

I set the welder on low and did spot welds to join the two halves.



Then made sure the bolt holes lined up with my radiator core support.



Now we are looking a lot better! I was pleased with the results. But its not done yet...I have to make the seam disappear. I did not want to use any bodywork on this panel. So I chose to fill in the pin holes with JB weld Steel stick.



Just like the first one I made in the first build, I wanted this new panel to be painted just like the car. So these are the supplies I needed to make that happen. Purchased at my favorite speed shop. Home Depot



To get this panel to look practically flawless, I used just about the whole can of primer. Basically sprayed a few coats. Sanded it down, and repeat till I was happy with it. Looking down the panel, the seam is totally gone. All body lines are straight.





Then I put it on the car to get a peek at how it will look. Bolts and all.



I was very pleased. Now it was time to get 'er done! I took out my Velocity Red Mica Basecoat and laid it down in smooth thin coats. This paint was from my leftover batch from 2012. (Yes I still have some left for touchup work )



If you noticed in the so called supplies I bought from Home Depot, I purchased clear coat. For small projects throughout this build, I opted to use 1K clear instead of 2K. I have done this for many many years with great success.
Here's the results.







After it was cured, it was time to finish that engine bay off. Love that classic radiator support panel look. Now I can say the engine bay is done....Or is it.....?

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Old 23rd-September-2019, 02:33 PM   #177
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Thank you, Steve ,

I also said that in your other post (about those 'seat belt retainers @ the headrest) .


You DO Very Nice Work ---- we can really see that in your whole series of "post" .


But --- Thank You FOR SHARING your info ---- some guys just don't do that (and, with Pictures to accompany those post).

The 'Shoulder belt retainer' is just what I mean ---------- that could be used for any type Nova (say that you install 'newer style seat belts in u'r early style body).


and, I agree that your 'Radiator Support Panel' does "close out that area much , much better & cleaner , great up-grade .



Once again, Thank You for Taking Your Time To Share …….

jim


ps. --- think "Undercovers" …………
------------------ those could even direct even more cooling air through your radiator -- ? ?
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Old 23rd-September-2019, 06:15 PM   #178
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What Twinshadows said X2!

I just tried Tarantula's seatbelt guide solution for my 72 and "winner, winner....!"

Cost was $28 taxes in for a set of '07 Cobalt guides. Perfect fit. Thanks Tarantula!
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Old 23rd-September-2019, 06:39 PM   #179
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I went thru a similar situation with my upper radiator support a couple months ago. Your finished support looks great!... like it came that way from the factory.
It's amazing how some of the smallest details sometimes have the most significant visual appeal.

As always, I truly appreciate the extra effort that you take to photograph and document your work to help others
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Old 25th-September-2019, 12:31 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinshadows View Post
Thank you, Steve ,
I also said that in your other post (about those 'seat belt retainers @ the headrest) .
You DO Very Nice Work ---- we can really see that in your whole series of "post" .
But --- Thank You FOR SHARING your info ---- some guys just don't do that (and, with Pictures to accompany those post).
The 'Shoulder belt retainer' is just what I mean ---------- that could be used for any type Nova (say that you install 'newer style seat belts in u'r early style body).
and, I agree that your 'Radiator Support Panel' does "close out that area much , much better & cleaner , great up-grade .
Once again, Thank You for Taking Your Time To Share .
jim
ps. --- think "Undercovers"
------------------ those could even direct even more cooling air through your radiator -- ? ?
Thank you.
I have thought about the "undercovers" for my Nova, but it would be for cosmetics only (if I decide on it). My cooling system setup is already super good. No mater what the temp is outside, if I'm on the freeway, the temps drops to the thermostat temp which is 185F.
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