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Old 7th-May-2008, 12:59 AM   #1
73ss406
 
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vortec 350

need some info, i have a 97 vortec 350 from a chevy truck somewhat low miles, thinking of putting it in the nova,have vortec performer intake and holley spread bore 650 to fit but i dont know much about the newer 350s with roller cams. what would be a good cam for this? 342 gears, above mentioned intake/carb 2800 converter th350, stock vortec heads,headers 1 5/8 2 1/2 exhaust, just thinking reliable, easy to maintain and peppy.73 nova apx 3200 lbs stock lifters ok? thanks
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Old 7th-May-2008, 12:21 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by 73ss406 View Post
need some info, i have a 97 vortec 350 from a chevy truck somewhat low miles, thinking of putting it in the nova,have vortec performer intake and holley spread bore 650 to fit but i dont know much about the newer 350s with roller cams. what would be a good cam for this? 342 gears, above mentioned intake/carb 2800 converter th350, stock vortec heads,headers 1 5/8 2 1/2 exhaust, just thinking reliable, easy to maintain and peppy.73 nova apx 3200 lbs stock lifters ok? thanks
You're heading down the path I did with my Nova. I have a L31 Vortec motor in my Nova as well. The performer intake and 650 carb will do you well. Performer RPM may have given you a little more power, but sounds like you're keeping it pretty mild. I think the performer would be better for low end torque, but don't quote me on that.

As for the cam, you're very limited on the amount of lift your stock vortecs can handle. About .420" lift is the max the heads will handle before you either bind the spring or the retainer contacts the valve seal.

Here's a great article on the vortecs: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...458/index.html

And a all you need to know thread on the vortecs:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505

If you're set on keeping them stock, I'm sure you can find a stockish cam that will work for you. I'm running a Comp Xtreme Energy cam and I just looked and they don't carry a cam in their magnum or extreme energy line that would work on a stock vortec head. If you're staying stock, I wouldn't worry about the pressed in studs. If you're stepping up the springs, I definitely would.

Stock lifters are fine.

Make SURE you use the correct plugs. .708 reach plugs are correct.

PM me if have need any help and I'll give you my phone number. I've done tons of research on the vortec motors so I think I'd at least be able to point you in the right direction.
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Old 7th-May-2008, 01:15 PM   #3
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I bought a 330 HP crate motor, iron vortec heads, from GM, PN 12486041. This may be a bit beyond what you want, but here are the cam specs:

Hydraulic flat tappet cam
Lift 435 intake, 460 exhaust
duration 212 intake, 222 exhaust At 050 tappet lift
centerline 109 ATDC intake, 116 BTDC exhaust

uses 1.5:1 flat tappet rocker arms.

Edelbrock, via email, told me that the Performer intake is better suited for my engine, over the Performer RPM.

I don't think the Performer RPM starts making power until you build up some revs.

Last edited by onecarnut; 7th-May-2008 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 7th-May-2008, 01:36 PM   #4
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I more thing.If your getting this motor used out of a wrecking yard or whatever.You might have to replace the timing chain cover.

I have a 96 vortec motor out of mom's tahoe.The timing chain cover has a hole in the bottom for I believe the crank positon sensor.If this hole is left open I am sure a massive oil leak will occur.Might be able to just leave the sensor in there.I am not sure.

I also think you could probably buy a new cover out of GMPP catalog.The cover itself says replace after dissassembly.So there probably not to hard to find.

One thing that I have wondered is about the distrubitor gear.Would a stock HEI gear work?
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Old 7th-May-2008, 06:00 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by underatree View Post
One thing that I have wondered is about the distrubitor gear.Would a stock HEI gear work?
Gear depends on the cam. You would likely just need a melanized gear. The cam card should specify, if not contact the manufacturer. I would also hope you would not even consider using the stock timing cover as it is plastic, if I recall correctly.
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Last edited by Shuboxchevy; 7th-May-2008 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 7th-May-2008, 08:25 PM   #6
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thanks for the input guys. the 350 is in a truck my brother in law owned since it had 30k on it. he rebuilt the trans, rear end and driveshaft to tow his travel trailer, fell asleep and hit a small tree.i got it from his ins co for 500.00. just getting tired of tweaking the 406 and want something to tool around in so i can finish my other projects.
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Old 8th-May-2008, 12:02 AM   #7
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I had a vortec 350 out of a 96 pickup in my nova for awhile. I just left the crank sensor in the front cover, but you can get a cover that the crank sensor hole is plugged. I had a performer rpm intake, headers, 3" exhaust, holley 750hp. My car ran consistent low 13's. I had the stock cam and around 5300 rpm it would float the valves. It was definitely a good motor and very driveable with good gas mileage.
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Old 8th-May-2008, 10:05 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by 73ss406 View Post
thanks for the input guys. the 350 is in a truck my brother in law owned since it had 30k on it. he rebuilt the trans, rear end and driveshaft to tow his travel trailer, fell asleep and hit a small tree.i got it from his ins co for 500.00. just getting tired of tweaking the 406 and want something to tool around in so i can finish my other projects.
If you do that your going to have to change yer name!
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Old 8th-May-2008, 12:43 PM   #9
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oops didnt even think of that and im him!!!!!!
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Old 8th-May-2008, 07:38 PM   #10
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I'm running an 86 block with 96 vortec heads. Only thing done to them was the rocker studs were threaded rather than pressed. I'm running a hyd roller .498/.489 lift .228/.228 duration and 110LSA. Comp roller lifters and Comp roller tipped rockers 1.52:1. I'm running the Perf rpm intake and a 750 holley dp. I actually think the plain performer intake would be better. These heads are known for making good low end (tire roasting)torque. It runs pretty strong and is very reliable. Relatively smooth idle too.
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Old 9th-May-2008, 12:45 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 270win View Post
I'm running an 86 block with 96 vortec heads. Only thing done to them was the rocker studs were threaded rather than pressed. I'm running a hyd roller .498/.489 lift .228/.228 duration and 110LSA. Comp roller lifters and Comp roller tipped rockers 1.52:1. I'm running the Perf rpm intake and a 750 holley dp. I actually think the plain performer intake would be better. These heads are known for making good low end (tire roasting)torque. It runs pretty strong and is very reliable. Relatively smooth idle too.
That's a lot of lift for a stock vortec... you sure they were completely stock with the exception of the studs?
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Old 9th-May-2008, 09:05 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Shuboxchevy View Post
That's a lot of lift for a stock vortec... you sure they were completely stock with the exception of the studs?

I know and I agree. I must have asked my engine builder 200 times if he was sure that was going to work. He assured me he had put that combination together with the L31 heads before without binding issues. Of course he also checked for coil bind and clearances etc. They were bone stock and all I had done were the studs. The springs are Cammotion and he did something with the retainers but I can't remember what...Anyway, it works.

I understand the skepticism. Everything I've ever read says not to go that big with these heads so unless you have a REALLY good engine builder I'd stick with that advice.
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Old 9th-May-2008, 12:30 PM   #13
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I know and I agree. I must have asked my engine builder 200 times if he was sure that was going to work. He assured me he had put that combination together with the L31 heads before without binding issues. Of course he also checked for coil bind and clearances etc. They were bone stock and all I had done were the studs. The springs are Cammotion and he did something with the retainers but I can't remember what...Anyway, it works.

I understand the skepticism. Everything I've ever read says not to go that big with these heads so unless you have a REALLY good engine builder I'd stick with that advice.
I never actually measured how much lift I could go with on my heads before I had them modified to accept a .530 lift. I've heard .420 max, .480 from others... but sounds like you had it done right.

Moral of the story is MEASURE TWICE.
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Old 9th-May-2008, 07:21 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Shuboxchevy View Post
I never actually measured how much lift I could go with on my heads before I had them modified to accept a .530 lift. I've heard .420 max, .480 from others... but sounds like you had it done right.

Moral of the story is MEASURE TWICE.
It seems like I read .470 somewhere which is why I bugged the heck out of my engine guy. He was the one that insisted that we thread the studs too. I agree, measure twice!!...at least!
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Old 11th-August-2008, 07:31 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by underatree View Post
I more thing.If your getting this motor used out of a wrecking yard or whatever.You might have to replace the timing chain cover.

I have a 96 vortec motor out of mom's tahoe.The timing chain cover has a hole in the bottom for I believe the crank positon sensor.If this hole is left open I am sure a massive oil leak will occur.Might be able to just leave the sensor in there.I am not sure.

I also think you could probably buy a new cover out of GMPP catalog.The cover itself says replace after dissassembly.So there probably not to hard to find.

One thing that I have wondered is about the distrubitor gear.Would a stock HEI gear work?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody View Post
I had a vortec 350 out of a 96 pickup in my nova for awhile. I just left the crank sensor in the front cover, but you can get a cover that the crank sensor hole is plugged. I had a performer rpm intake, headers, 3" exhaust, holley 750hp. My car ran consistent low 13's. I had the stock cam and around 5300 rpm it would float the valves. It was definitely a good motor and very driveable with good gas mileage.
I got a 1999 350 Vortec and since the car had fuel injection there is some kind of a "crank trigger" that is on the outside of the timing chain on the crank sprocket. I am going carburated so I no longer need this and I want to run a double roller timing chain.

Does anyone know if the double roller timing chain will make up the difference of the "crank trigger" so that the stock balancer will go back on in the correct spot?
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