What is this noise under the valve cover? - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 10th-August-2007, 10:00 PM   #1
David&Melissa_h

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Hydraulic or solid?

I notaced some rocker noise from the pass side of my motor nothing real bad just some clatter since my valve covers are leaking oil I decided to adjust the valve lash while Iam in there.
after looking at the pretty new roller rockers I started thinking hmmm does this thing have hydrolic or solid lifters
Person I bought it from doesnt return my calls so I was wondering how can I tell for sure cus I think if they are solid I am going to replace them.
From what I have read on this board solid need constant adjusting and can be noisey.

I am going to adjust these with out the motor running( first time I have always done it running but dont have a extra set of tall valve covers)
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Old 10th-August-2007, 10:36 PM   #2
David&Melissa_h

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looking throught the receipts I found this

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts
Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 288/ 294, Lift .520/ .540, Chevy, Small Block, Each

this means its hydrolic lifters right?
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Old 10th-August-2007, 10:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
this means its hydrolic lifters right?
No, it means Hydraulic lifters just like you wrote.
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Old 10th-August-2007, 11:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie0069 View Post
No, it means Hydraulic lifters just like you wrote.
What am I missing? Looks like hydrauic roller lifters. ??? Did anyone look up the cam by it's discription?
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Old 10th-August-2007, 11:51 PM   #5
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http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

Brand: COMP Cams
Product Line: COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Retro-Fit Cam and Lifter Kits
Part Type: Camshaft and Lifter Kits
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,500-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 242
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236 int./242 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 288
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 294
Advertised Duration: 288 int./294 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.520 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.540 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.520 int./0.540 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Grind Number: CS XR288HR-10
Computer Controlled Compatible: No
Lifters Included: Yes
Lifter Style: Hydraulic roller
Valve Springs Included: No
Retainers Included: No
Locks Included: No
Valve Stem Seals Included: No
Timing Chain and Gears Included: No
Assembly Lubricant Included: Yes
Pushrods Included: No
Rocker Arms Included: No
Gaskets Included: No
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Notes: Requires thrust button and wear plate.

Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 288/294, Lift .520/.540, Chevy, Small Block, Kit

Check to make sure this part fits your application
Xtreme performance cam kits.
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy retro-fit cam and lifter kits are built to take advantage of the latest cam technology, to provide maximum performance. Whether your use is off-roading, towing, or street performance, there is an Xtreme Energy kit available for you. By using an aggressive lobe profile, these cam and lifter kits provide better throttle response and more top-end horsepower than equivalent cams from other manufacturers, while delivering increased engine vacuum.
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Old 11th-August-2007, 12:02 AM   #6
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Sounds like a decent cam but I always adjust all of my hydraulics without the engine running. Adjusting by "ear" is not as accurate. Not that you really have to be that accurate when adjusting hydraulic lifters but doing it without the engine running is less messy and allows you to make the preload almost exactly the same on each lifter.
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Old 11th-August-2007, 12:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie0069 View Post
No, it means Hydraulic lifters just like you wrote.
yes my spelling sucks

Ok great I have read the valve adjustment thread.
Iam going to use this method becouse it is an aftermarket cam.

Valve Adjustment The Quick Way:

Ok, now to the good stuff! First, view this little chart for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it ... for other engines, use your firing order that matches your engine to do the same. You set up this procedure based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)

Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!

with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve

Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!

If you have noticed, this is the same procedure as the intake valves listed above, just that you are now adjusting the exhaust valves the same way.

with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve
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Old 11th-August-2007, 05:56 AM   #8
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There is only one way to adjust rockers IMO. After the engine is hot and running you should hear it just start to "clatter" as you start to loosen the jam nut. Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle depth. Do this on all the valves..
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Old 11th-August-2007, 12:02 PM   #9
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Your only way to adjust lifters is MESSY. Do it off
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Old 11th-August-2007, 07:35 PM   #10
David&Melissa_h

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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickman View Post
There is only one way to adjust rockers IMO. After the engine is hot and running you should hear it just start to "clatter" as you start to loosen the jam nut. Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle depth. Do this on all the valves..
Thats how I have always adjusted them with holes in the valve covers.
I now have roller rockers with tall covers and no extra covers to cut up.
I want to try it the clean way and see what happens.
Now if I could get motavated and get out to the garage
I just cant seem to get off the couch today well I hear the couch calling gotta go!
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Old 12th-August-2007, 12:27 AM   #11
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Doing it that way is nowhere near as accurate as doing it with the engine off and you are guaranteed to have a different preload on every lifter. Listening for a sound is a lot more subjective than actually feeling it and then using the rocker nut like a micrometer to set the preload. It really doesn't make much sense to adjust your lifter preload with the engine running. It's harder on the lifters, the results are less accurate, plus it's messy.

None of the cam manufacturers recommend setting hydraulic lifter preload by ear with the engine running.

Here are the factory instructions from Comp Cams on how to proprly set the preload on your hydraulic roller lifters.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../COMP4-115.pdf
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Old 12th-August-2007, 12:31 AM   #12
David&Melissa_h

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Ok I just adjusted the rockers it seemed real easy to do it with the motor off i loosened the the nut and tightened by hand until all pushrod movment was out then went 3/4 turn and set the jam screw.
I went 3/4 turn becouse I always went 1 full turn with the engine running and from what I have read I see anywere from 1/8 turn to a full turn so I said screw it and went 3/4 turn ( I hate noisy valve train )
I am going to install the plugs and valve covers tomarrow and fire it up!
3/4 turn should be ok right
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Old 12th-August-2007, 12:40 AM   #13
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I would follow exactly what the manufacturer recommends. They are usually pretty knowledgable about their own products. Hydraulic lifters are very forgiving though.
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Old 14th-August-2007, 11:48 PM   #14
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It runs great if not better then before no valve train noeses so far
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Old 15th-August-2007, 03:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64PRONOVA View Post
Doing it that way is nowhere near as accurate as doing it with the engine off and you are guaranteed to have a different preload on every lifter. Listening for a sound is a lot more subjective than actually feeling it and then using the rocker nut like a micrometer to set the preload. It really doesn't make much sense to adjust your lifter preload with the engine running. It's harder on the lifters, the results are less accurate, plus it's messy.

None of the cam manufacturers recommend setting hydraulic lifter preload by ear with the engine running.

Here are the factory instructions from Comp Cams on how to proprly set the preload on your hydraulic roller lifters.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../COMP4-115.pdf
thanks 64pronova for posting the comp cams link, i'm running the same grind cam but for a 86/on roller block, i'm using the pro magnum hydraulic roller lifters but the instructions that came with the lifters quoted 1/2 turn preload, which is how mine are set at, i've also got some valve train noise (not enough to worry about) their site states to set lifters at .002"-.004" preload, (0-1/8 turn preload) i think i'll try setting them at 0-1/8, Gary.
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