Installing Dzus Fasteners - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 23rd-January-2007, 09:09 PM   #1
GMPartsman
 
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Installing Dzus Fasteners

putting a lift off cowl hood on and was looking for any tips of someone who has done this..just asking hate to screw up a $$hood..looking at putting 1 each side on rear and 4 down each side..any tips would be great..
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Old 23rd-January-2007, 10:22 PM   #2
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Just a FYI....

You want to install 2-4 in the front,same in rear and 4 down each side.

I lost my hood last season on the big end just after the lights.

I used a Jegs brand dzus kit and it sheared off all of the supplied rivets as they were aluminum. Upgrade them to steel or stainless steel when you do it.

I used a dremel tool to work the fiberglass and it was a pretty simple install.

Just remember to measure well and you'll be fine.
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Old 23rd-January-2007, 10:42 PM   #3
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you didn't mention the model of your car so here is an example of my 71



2 on the back cowl panel on either side of the cowl
3 down each fender
and 2 on the bend of the fender above the grill

I had another hood that I didn't install the 2 above the grill and at 55 mph the hood fluttered in the wind. FYI
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Old 24th-January-2007, 01:41 PM   #4
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I put 2 at the rear, right next to the raised portion of the hood.

I originally put four down each side, equally spaced. Starting just after the radius at the front of the hood (fasteners only on the flat portion).

The hood fluttered at 55 and made me uncomfortable at 70. Also, being a daily driver, I feared it was too easy to steel my hood. So!!!

I replaced one dzus fastener on each side with one of the locking hood-pin kits from Mr. Gasket. This way you can't remove the hood without first unlocking the pin (no one steals it!).
I then took the two dzus fasteners I removed, and attached them vertically on the grill, so the fasteners are attached on the lip of the hood--I shaved my hood trim/eyebrows so it's not a clearance problem for me.

This got rid of the flutter, and made the hood much more firmly attached to the car. The hood no longer flutters.

A few tips:

Measure a million times, only drill once!
When I drilled the holes for my fasteners, I used (IIRC) a 3/8" bit and an 17/32" drill bit. The 3/8" drills the hole so the fastener can fit through the hood. The 17/32" was using to "countersink" the diameter of the 3/8 hole so the fastener could sit flush with the hood. Remember, the less material you can removed, the stronger the hood is going to be.

When installing the brackets to the car, here is my advice...don't use rivets!
These are the steps I took...

Measure the thickness of the hood, and place the brackets that far below the lines of the car (so the hood fits flush). Pop rivet the bracket in place (temporary) using the two outside holes--this eliminates the need of several pairs of hands while drilling/fitting/etc. Like so:


(My car is the blue '72, the '70 in the b/g is my fathers)

It helps to put a piece of easy-release tap on the fenders where each bracket is placed. Also helps to mark the center of the bracket on the tape.
Place the hood on and test the height of the brackets by visual inspection....mark on the tape which ones need to go up or down.

Here's where I deviate from what most manufacturers recommend...
Instead of using pop rivets to permanantly install the brackets, I used stainless self tapping sheet metal screws.

Using pop rivets I could break the bracket loose with my bare hands--not the case with sheet metal screws--it's much more stable. Plus, if you use a slightly undersize sheet metal screw, you give yourself a bit of adjustability just in case the hood doesn't fit quite right (high/low).

Once the brackets are in place, use steel rivets to attach the springs to the mounting plates. Aluminum would work, but are a little more likely to fatigue and break loose.

Measure, mark, and drill 3/8" holes where each dzus fastener will go on the hood. Test fit to make sure you didn't screw up. Once you're comfortable with it, use the 17/32" bit to countersink the hole so the fastener will fit flush to the hood. DO NOT drill the 1/8" holes for the rivets yet!

Test fit the hood again, this time you can attach it using the Dzus fasteners.
Depending on the parts your ordered (hood thickness, dzus fastener length, spring height) you may have to either sand down the thickness of the hood (LIGHTLY ONLY!) If it's not going to work correctly, you can modify the spring height slightly or order new parts! I had to order slightly shorter springs

Once you get the hood on, and all the dzus fasteners fitting properly, line up everything how you want it and drill the 1/8" holes that fasten the fasteners to the hood. I started the holes at this point, then removed the hood/fasteners and drilled completely through while the hood was on the bench.

Use ALUMINUM pop rivets to attach the fasteners to the hood. Steel ones take more force to set, and could fracture the hood with the added tension. Remember, you don't need a lot of strength here as all these rivets do is keep the fasteners from falling off while the hood is off.

Remember, you don't wan't the dzus fasteners to be *TIGHT* but you do want them to positively rock-over (click) so you know they won't come loose with vibration. Continually check all the mounting hardward, as pop rivets can come loose or shear off fairly easily.

Last edited by Bscman; 24th-January-2007 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 24th-January-2007, 01:52 PM   #5
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It should also be worth noting, I purchased MOROSO brand mounting plates and Dzus fasteners.
I bought all the rivets in bulk at the local hardware store.
Figure 2 rivets for each bracket (temporary attachment), 2 rivets to attach each spring, and 2 rivets to attach each fastener to the hood = 60 rivets, plus the extras that you don't get quite right....
I also recommend at least 2 stainless screws for each bracket as well.

My local speed shop carried the moroso parts cheaper than I could get them from summit or the like (lots of dirt track racers here).

And I didn't want to spend the extra $$$ on pop rivets from the kit that I didn't plan on using.

Remember, at high speeds there is a tremendous abount of force on your hood...so mount it as firmly as possible. It's even more important on the street, because all the cars behind you on the freeway are going to catch that hood if it ever comes off.

Also, the special "tool" that you can buy for the dzus fasteners can be quite handy...a regular screw driver will ding up the fasteners, where the special "screw driver" fits the fastener better keeping it from getting dinged up.
However! I made my own using a cheap gasket scraper and a bench grinder. It works just the same, but only cost a few bucks and a few minutes time--rather that $19 from summit.

Last edited by Bscman; 24th-January-2007 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 24th-January-2007, 07:04 PM   #6
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thanks for the tips doesnt sound like it will be to bad just have to have some patience..you stated you use screw to keep the plate for "pulling off" do to lack of rivet strength..if i used rivet washers on the back of a stainless rivet do you think it would hold than use a stainless screw in the middle so it would keep a smooth look and the screw would be hidden..also thanks for the pics i am also putting this on a 71 those were great...thanks alot guys
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Old 24th-January-2007, 07:06 PM   #7
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oh yea did either of you have to "notch" the hood edge where it mounts to the plate..just wondering..
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Old 24th-January-2007, 10:02 PM   #8
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If you want to use rivets, by all means do it. Plenty of people have done it, and it has worked well...but I just don't trust the shear strength of a pop rivet--that's why I chose to use screws.

I should clarify that they're stainless hex-head self tapping sheet metal screws--and since the heads are tucked in underneath the brackets you attach to the fenders/cowl/etc. you don't hardly see them anyway.

Using rivets you'll have to be a bit more careful to make sure you get the brackets in the right place the first time--this is another reason I chose screws. I can take another pic tomorrow if you like--so you can see the screws.

As for the hood--I took a die grinder and cut off all but about 3/16" of the flashing along the sides of the hood. It's mainly there to protect the hood while being shipped.
For the brackets to fit flush with the bottom side of the hood of course, I had to sand the flashing smooth. Keep the edges rounded, as sharp corners promote cracking when under stress.
I also smoothed the under side of the hood slightly with some 220grit to give a large, flat surface for the hood to sit on the brackets.
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Old 24th-January-2007, 10:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMPartsman View Post
thanks for the tips doesnt sound like it will be to bad just have to have some patience..you stated you use screw to keep the plate for "pulling off" do to lack of rivet strength..if i used rivet washers on the back of a stainless rivet do you think it would hold than use a stainless screw in the middle so it would keep a smooth look and the screw would be hidden..also thanks for the pics i am also putting this on a 71 those were great...thanks alot guys
I used pop rivets on both of my hoods. I've ran my car to a top speed of about 135 with no issues. Also I notched my hood where the plates met the hood. I just grinded the lip down the width of the fastener leaving the flat part of the hood only. (if that makes sense) Then I mounted the plates about 1/8 below the edge of my fender. Fit perfect for me. Of course you need to make sure before you mount it.
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Old 25th-January-2007, 08:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bscman View Post
If you want to use rivets, by all means do it. Plenty of people have done it, and it has worked well...but I just don't trust the shear strength of a pop rivet--that's why I chose to use screws.

I should clarify that they're stainless hex-head self tapping sheet metal screws--and since the heads are tucked in underneath the brackets you attach to the fenders/cowl/etc. you don't hardly see them anyway.

Using rivets you'll have to be a bit more careful to make sure you get the brackets in the right place the first time--this is another reason I chose screws. I can take another pic tomorrow if you like--so you can see the screws.

As for the hood--I took a die grinder and cut off all but about 3/16" of the flashing along the sides of the hood. It's mainly there to protect the hood while being shipped.
For the brackets to fit flush with the bottom side of the hood of course, I had to sand the flashing smooth. Keep the edges rounded, as sharp corners promote cracking when under stress.
I also smoothed the under side of the hood slightly with some 220grit to give a large, flat surface for the hood to sit on the brackets.
ok i see after looking closer that they were a different head i was looking for a screw head and not seeing it..that does look clean with the hex head screws and i am all about a clean install..thanks for all the info now if i can just glasstek to speed it up a little i can put this info to use..i have been waiting 5 weeks now and my patience is getting a little short..whoever said quality work takes time never had a car
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Old 12th-May-2010, 08:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bscman View Post
I put 2 at the rear, right next to the raised portion of the hood.

I originally put four down each side, equally spaced. Starting just after the radius at the front of the hood (fasteners only on the flat portion).

The hood fluttered at 55 and made me uncomfortable at 70. Also, being a daily driver, I feared it was too easy to steel my hood. So!!!

I replaced one dzus fastener on each side with one of the locking hood-pin kits from Mr. Gasket. This way you can't remove the hood without first unlocking the pin (no one steals it!).
I then took the two dzus fasteners I removed, and attached them vertically on the grill, so the fasteners are attached on the lip of the hood--I shaved my hood trim/eyebrows so it's not a clearance problem for me.

This got rid of the flutter, and made the hood much more firmly attached to the car. The hood no longer flutters.

A few tips:

Measure a million times, only drill once!
When I drilled the holes for my fasteners, I used (IIRC) a 3/8" bit and an 17/32" drill bit. The 3/8" drills the hole so the fastener can fit through the hood. The 17/32" was using to "countersink" the diameter of the 3/8 hole so the fastener could sit flush with the hood. Remember, the less material you can removed, the stronger the hood is going to be.

When installing the brackets to the car, here is my advice...don't use rivets!
These are the steps I took...

Measure the thickness of the hood, and place the brackets that far below the lines of the car (so the hood fits flush). Pop rivet the bracket in place (temporary) using the two outside holes--this eliminates the need of several pairs of hands while drilling/fitting/etc. Like so:


(My car is the blue '72, the '70 in the b/g is my fathers)

It helps to put a piece of easy-release tap on the fenders where each bracket is placed. Also helps to mark the center of the bracket on the tape.
Place the hood on and test the height of the brackets by visual inspection....mark on the tape which ones need to go up or down.

Here's where I deviate from what most manufacturers recommend...
Instead of using pop rivets to permanantly install the brackets, I used stainless self tapping sheet metal screws.

Using pop rivets I could break the bracket loose with my bare hands--not the case with sheet metal screws--it's much more stable. Plus, if you use a slightly undersize sheet metal screw, you give yourself a bit of adjustability just in case the hood doesn't fit quite right (high/low).

Once the brackets are in place, use steel rivets to attach the springs to the mounting plates. Aluminum would work, but are a little more likely to fatigue and break loose.

Measure, mark, and drill 3/8" holes where each dzus fastener will go on the hood. Test fit to make sure you didn't screw up. Once you're comfortable with it, use the 17/32" bit to countersink the hole so the fastener will fit flush to the hood. DO NOT drill the 1/8" holes for the rivets yet!

Test fit the hood again, this time you can attach it using the Dzus fasteners.
Depending on the parts your ordered (hood thickness, dzus fastener length, spring height) you may have to either sand down the thickness of the hood (LIGHTLY ONLY!) If it's not going to work correctly, you can modify the spring height slightly or order new parts! I had to order slightly shorter springs

Once you get the hood on, and all the dzus fasteners fitting properly, line up everything how you want it and drill the 1/8" holes that fasten the fasteners to the hood. I started the holes at this point, then removed the hood/fasteners and drilled completely through while the hood was on the bench.

Use ALUMINUM pop rivets to attach the fasteners to the hood. Steel ones take more force to set, and could fracture the hood with the added tension. Remember, you don't need a lot of strength here as all these rivets do is keep the fasteners from falling off while the hood is off.

Remember, you don't wan't the dzus fasteners to be *TIGHT* but you do want them to positively rock-over (click) so you know they won't come loose with vibration. Continually check all the mounting hardward, as pop rivets can come loose or shear off fairly easily.

Where did you get your fasteners and brackets??? Do you have a pick of this completed???
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Old 5th-July-2010, 08:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian View Post
Where did you get your fasteners and brackets??? Do you have a pick of this completed???
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRD-192/

this is what I used, and I welded mine to the fenders instead of using rivets.

the good news is they are not coming off, and the bad news is they are not coming off. lol
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Old 5th-July-2010, 09:11 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 71 Chevy View Post
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRD-192/

this is what I used, and I welded mine to the fenders instead of using rivets.

the good news is they are not coming off, and the bad news is they are not coming off. lol
Do you have a pic of them installed???
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