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ok....what if you came off of the A pillar bars with some font strut bars that met with the top bars of the front clip and welded a flange to the front strut bars and were able to bolt them together through the firewall???
ok....what if you came off of the A pillar bars with some font strut bars that met with the top bars of the front clip and welded a flange to the front strut bars and were able to bolt them together through the firewall???
I have those plates coming from AJE just for that.
None of the holes on mine lined up very well either. I made it all work, just a couple screw drivers here and there and it went together just fine.
Did you get the install manual? I didnt get anything with mine, just had to wing it.
Also-did you get the adjustable A arms? If you did, measure the length of the adjuster. If I remember right, the are suppose to be 7" and mine were 6". We couldn't get an alignment out of it no matter what we did, and thats what we found. It took a while to find it! After we figured it out, AJE next day aired out the correct pieces, and we were good to go.
None of the holes on mine lined up very well either. I made it all work, just a couple screw drivers here and there and it went together just fine.
Did you get the install manual? I didnt get anything with mine, just had to wing it.
Also-did you get the adjustable A arms? If you did, measure the length of the adjuster. If I remember right, the are suppose to be 7" and mine were 6". We couldn't get an alignment out of it no matter what we did, and thats what we found. It took a while to find it! After we figured it out, AJE next day aired out the correct pieces, and we were good to go.
I just got the bushed a-arms as Anthony said that would be better for a "street car"
My top plate on the pass side is about 3/4" low though.....????
I would definetly stick with the butternut! Very low key w/ a large can of whoop *****! The top bars bolt onto the firewall thru the sheetmetal to some plates with nuts welded to them. My passenger side is way off vertically. I double checked the front clip I have and it is perfect. The error is in my firewall plate. I could probably pry things around and get it together but I am actually gonna cut the plate out and move it into the correct position. It is a good idea, especially for a car of your caliber of horsepower to bring a tube off your A-pillar bars or dash bar thru the cowl area to back up the upper strut mount plate behind the firewall.
Looking forward to watching your build!
I would definetly stick with the butternut! Very low key w/ a large can of whoop *****! The top bars bolt onto the firewall thru the sheetmetal to some plates with nuts welded to them. My passenger side is way off vertically. I double checked the front clip I have and it is perfect. The error is in my firewall plate. I could probably pry things around and get it together but I am actually gonna cut the plate out and move it into the correct position. It is a good idea, especially for a car of your caliber of horsepower to bring a tube off your A-pillar bars or dash bar thru the cowl area to back up the upper strut mount plate behind the firewall.
Looking forward to watching your build!
Thanks!!!
I will move mine tomorrow and have Brian at Redline Racecars do whatever else it needs to be a 25.5 car in a month or two.
I've got an AJE clip and all I can say is once I finally got the right pieces, I'm pretty happy with it. I had somewhat the same issue with the clip not wanting to match the upper holes in the firewall. Meaure everything CAREFULLY before you start hacking on the firewall!!!! There is not a lot of strength there, and you are going to have a hard time moving things around and getting the strength back.
I cut through the inner cowl and brought a 1-3/4" tube off the dashbar and made my own plate to back up the upper frame mount / firewall like Jake mentioned. In hind sight, I should have just cut the end off and extended the AJE tubing right on in to the A-pillar of the cage and forgot about the 'bolt on' idea.
Lets see,,, in my package AJE sent the wrong lower A-arms. The Strut/spindle structure had to be sent back to have the tie-rod eye hole corrected, The link between the tie-rod end and the rack was too short to get toe in set, and when I upgraded to the adjustable lower control arms, the wrong length adjust was sent a second time, and the aluminum inner fender panels that were supposed to be clearcoat powercoated aluminum,,, came red, but they are alumninum like I ordered. And while I was trying to figure out why my hood hinges just would not work, Jim discovered not all Chevy II's have the same hood hinge. 63-64 saw a change not accounted for in their design. Lots and lots of little headaches, but Anthony and Jim are real good to take care of the problems quickly. The biggest problem is instructions are nonexistant. If they would include some pic's and just a FEW diminsions you would have a clue if you did something wrong, or if you have the wrong parts. That part is pretty frustrating.
From what I could gather, Jim Marrow (shop forman) took the AJE Fox body frame and modified it to fit his fathers 63 Chevy II. Then a jig was made up from that. The frame and jig may be fine, but the minimum wage morons slapping things on a pallet for shipping don't have a clue if it's a rustang, Chevy-II or what. There just grabbing parts off the shelf and making a 'package'.
If you run into headaches, before you toss a hammer through the window be sure and ask here. Myself as well as the other AJE users here will be glad to send pics, measurements, or whatever it takes to make it easier.
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