Restoration Parts Floor Pans

[Bluesman]

OK...just for the record, I got the front half of the floor pans (689XFP4L and 689XFP4R) and they do not reach to the corner below the pedals. They are good quality, maybe 18 gauge...really heavy, and stamped to fit. They are just a little short. I'm going to have to get the toe-boards. Wish I had known this in advance.

Also, has anyone cut out the floorboards before? Is it easier to cut out the spot welds in the "pinch" that sticks down below the floor?

Dave

I need to update the pic! Its about a shell now!!

[elkenova]

I recently did the floor pans on my '68. What I did was to lay the new pans in and scribe around them with a magic marker. Then made measurements for the seat belt and seat mounting holes. I also measured where the spot welds were on the braces so I could drill my new pans and plug weld them where the spot weld was.I used a square layed along the floor pan-rocker cover seam and measured from there to keep things straight. Also take note where your floor pan braces are so you don't cut through them. When cutting your old floor make sure to keep your first cut at least an inch, maybe a little more BELOW your scribed line. When you start to lay in your pans they will sit lower then your line was because of the removed pans. I used a air powered cut off wheel to cut out the pan and either a sanding disc on a 4 inch grinder or the cut off wheel to grind through the spot welds. I believe they make a tool for removing spot welds that works pretty good too.It took me a long time to put in my pans.Looking through articles in magazines made it look like it was a quick job, it took me four or five afternoons to do each side. Hope this helps, Jerry

[Bluesman]

Thanks for the tips, Jerry. They definitely help. The last owner poured some kind of goo on the floor and it is all down in that seam. Whatever it is it really is hard to get out. I'm going to try your method of drilling the spot welds and then plug welding back through the holes. I'm going to see if I can score one of those spot weld drills at the Good Guy's swap meet this afternoon.

Dave

[Pauls72]

Is that goo, the seam sealer? If so assorted sizes of putty knifes, flat blade screw drivers and time is what it takes.

After blowing through a few of these spot weld cutters (see pic below), I re-evaluated what I was going to do. Middle sections of the floor, floor supports and passenger rear were still in good shape. I decided instead of replacing the whole floor boards, I would cut up the new ones and make patch panels and only fix what was necessary.

I did similar to elkenova and laid the pieces in and used a sharpie marker. Then took the pieces out and drew another line 1/8" lower, this was my cut out line. I cut around the seat belt mounts and left them in. I used a 1/4" die grinder with a cut off wheel. Then used an air chisel to cut through the welds along the rocker panels. Remember it's easier to go back and trim or grind a little more metal out than to fix that spot were you took a little too much out.

They don't make toe boards for a Nova. The one ones for a 67-69 Camaro work and are sold by some places as 3rd Gen Nova toe boards. The passenger side is an exact replacement for the Nova. The drivers side is a slightly different stamping around the headlight dimmer switch, it's still the same size as the Nova and fits well. Unless you place them side by side most people would not know the difference.

Paul

[Bluesman]

Thanks Paul, those pics really help. I don't know yet if I can get away with patching like you did because that goo is covering up the seam; can't tell yet if that is rusty. From under the car it looks OK but ...... ?? I'm hoping to get into it this weekend ... Good-Guy's interfered this last weekend !

Dave

[Pauls72]

Don't forget to unbolt and move the brake and fuel lines away from the floor before you start cutting and welding. I wedged in some blocks of wood to hold them far away.

There is a support piece under the toe boards on both sides. If you look at my drivers side pictures you can see it. The little inch wide fingers are right under the toe board/floor board seam. I had to weld a couple of them back on.

[Bluesman]

Cutting thru a brakeline is definitely something I might do! LOL! Thanks for the warning. Were those little finger things welded to the floorpan or did it just sit on them? I can't tell from the pic but did you grind thru the spot welds on left of the driver's pan where the metal pinches down or did you cut a line beside this seam?

Dave

[Pauls72]

At the toe board seam the floor is 3 layers thick. Using the die grinder with a cut off disk, we cut along the toe board seam. At 20,000 rpm with a cut off disk it's like a hot knife through butter. You can cut through 3 layers of sheet metal as easy as 2. I had cut out the passenger side and my son was helping with the drivers side. He mowed off a couple of the fingers before I caught it.

The toe board has a stamped ridge about an inch from the back end. The floor board sit on top of the toe board overlapping it. With the toe board in you can barely see the support piece underneath it. You can see part of the passenger side over the hump in the attached picture.
Paul

[Bluesman]

This is SO helpful, Paul. Thanks a ton! If the rain lets up I'll have a go at it this Friday.

Dave