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Old 8th-June-2013, 01:52 PM   #16
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My guess is 14.5
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Old 8th-June-2013, 07:00 PM   #17
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Results!

First! Thanks for all the guesses, encouragement and tips! It was fun to bench race a bit with you all. And it seems we were all about right.



The first run i roasted the tire all the way into 2nd... With each run I learned more and got progressively faster. AS you can see I need to work on my reaction time! With a good R/T I would be able to shave up to a tenth.

By my third run I had my 60' down to 2.2 which is about as good as I could get on street tires and an open diff, right? Maybe a flat 2.0 is possible?

The fourth run was just for fun against a guy with a 396 Nova that wanted to do a flag race, so he gave me a 3 car lead. I still lost BUT I also figured out my 1-2 shift point at 6000RPM. With the 2.9ish rear end I can finish in 2nd at about 5500RPM and JUST UNDER 100MPH at 99.7MPH. I am pretty sure if I would have started at the line I would have broke 100! Even the stock cam was still pulling hard at the 6200RPM limit I programmed in the MSD. I'm going to kick that to 6500 and maybe sneak some LS6 springs past the fiance! :secret2:

All and all it was a great success I met a bunch of great guys that were more then happy to give me tips and pointers. Including one guy with a green S-10 with a built 6.0 and nitrous. My buddy, slim80, was in the stands and got vid of a bunch of different cars. He got my first run, skip to about 2:50 to see me roast some BRgoodrich and get spanked by a Lancer (I think...) He said he will be posting a vid of just my 4 runs soon. Thanks Slim80!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4Bbx...ature=youtu.be
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Old 8th-June-2013, 09:05 PM   #18
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With a good R/T I would be able to shave up to a tenth.
Reaction time has no bearing on E.T.--if you sit there 10 minutes before breaking the beam, it will still run the same.
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Old 8th-June-2013, 11:01 PM   #19
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Bowtie is correct, R/T has no bearing on your ET. But its still a good idea to get that down.

Nice video! That other guy was sleeping at the tree or something huh? You got a major jump on that guy. Car looked good going down the track!

A 2.2 60 ft time on street tires with a 2.90 rear end is great. If you could get some good drag radials on there and swap out your rear for a new posi with 3.73 gears that would really shave some serious time off of your ET.

If you just keep practicing you'll widdle down your ET as well. Main thing is you went to the track, ran your car, learned some stuff, and had some fun! That's what its all about!
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Old 10th-June-2013, 10:06 AM   #20
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Thanks Bowtie and Cdahl for the input. I am still learning how all the timing stuff works, I thought your ET started when the last light goes! guess I have some more studying to do. My buddy (SLIM80 on LS1Tech) was in the stands and put this Youtube vid together of all my runs. The night race is the flag race against the 396 Nova. Damn did that thing sound NICE!

http://youtu.be/-1lYjfugOdE

Thanks to everyone for the input and guesses. It was educational and a lot of fun to share this with ya'!
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Old 10th-June-2013, 02:50 PM   #21
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tell ya what with minimal upgrades---posi, gears, tires, you'll shave a she-it ton off that e/t.....
Save the $jack$ for it and you'll be running 12's in no time.
Just a posi and gears would put you in the bottom 13's even on street tires am guessing.
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Old 10th-June-2013, 10:48 PM   #22
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tell ya what with minimal upgrades---posi, gears, tires, you'll shave a she-it ton off that e/t.....
Save the $jack$ for it and you'll be running 12's in no time.
Just a posi and gears would put you in the bottom 13's even on street tires am guessing.
Thanks Mike! Mid-low 14s was my realistic goal for my all-stock configuration 1/4 mile time. My experience at the track has helped me to set a goal of a high to mid 12 second build. I feel that I will be able to maintain good streetablity and not go broke getting there!

SOOOO I think worked 317 heads, valvetrain upgrade, semi-lumpy cam, 3.42 rear gears and posi and some M/T slicks are in my future.
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Old 10th-June-2013, 10:50 PM   #23
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Maybe subframe connectors too.
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Old 10th-June-2013, 10:51 PM   #24
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And then maybe.......etc etc etc
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Old 11th-June-2013, 03:46 PM   #25
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What trans are you running? If you have overdrive I would go with a 3.73 or 4.10 provided your cruising RPM's are still low enough for what you want to do with the car.

Definitely tie the frame if you're going to run tires that hook decent. Even on street tires my engine was able to shift the fenders and stuff around. When I went to put the hood back on after a few months of driving with no hood, I couldn't get it to fit. Took it to the bodyshop and they had to move the fenders a little and reshim things. The car will ride better/firmer as well afterwards, less squeaks and rattles too, definitely worth it.

Sounds like a good plan!
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Old 11th-June-2013, 03:51 PM   #26
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Basic 355 with a healthy cam, ported S/R torquers, etc etc etc. Car would launch pretty good with drag radials and no subframe connectors. After about 100 passes, my door started rubbing really bad, like it was sagging at some points and too tight in others. The alignment on my fenders, hood, and doors were all a little goofy. Required quite a bit of shim and metal work to get it straight again.

Moral of the story - $100 set of subframe connectors = good investment.

Kev
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Old 11th-June-2013, 03:55 PM   #27
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Yep, frame connectors are a must if you've got an engine with some decent power. Even if you dont hook that well it'll still shift things around on the car over time.
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Old 11th-June-2013, 04:00 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdahl383 View Post
What trans are you running? If you have overdrive I would go with a 3.73 or 4.10 provided your cruising RPM's are still low enough for what you want to do with the car.

Definitely tie the frame if you're going to run tires that hook decent. Even on street tires my engine was able to shift the fenders and stuff around. When I went to put the hood back on after a few months of driving with no hood, I couldn't get it to fit. Took it to the bodyshop and they had to move the fenders a little and reshim things. The car will ride better/firmer as well afterwards, less squeaks and rattles too, definitely worth it.

Sounds like a good plan!
I am running a TH350 with a slight performance rebuild. So top gear is only 1:1. Right now an 80MPH cruise is just over 3000RPM. If I moved up to a 3.42, that is closer to 3600. So anything higher is out of the question.

BTW, in the begining I stated an axle ratio of 2.9:1. Well Tarantula and I did a little figuring and it is actually a 3.08! So not QUITE as bad as I thought. Thanks for the Help Tarantula!

Quote:
Originally Posted by novaboy009 View Post
Basic 355 with a healthy cam, ported S/R torquers, etc etc etc. Car would launch pretty good with drag radials and no subframe connectors. After about 100 passes, my door started rubbing really bad, like it was sagging at some points and too tight in others. The alignment on my fenders, hood, and doors were all a little goofy. Required quite a bit of shim and metal work to get it straight again.

Moral of the story - $100 set of subframe connectors = good investment.

Kev
I have a Nova buddy in town with a 355 pushing pretty hard and he has seen wrinkles in the C-pillar even with subframe connectors! I think I may have to move up my timeline for connectors a little sooner! Thanks for the advice!
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