1970 Nova purple wire questions - Chevy Nova Forum
Visit our sponsor, National Nostalgic Nova
 
Steve's Nova Site is an automotive enthusiast website dedicated to the 1962 - 1979 Chevrolet Nova, Chevy II and Acadian automobiles. We work together to preserve, restore, drive, show, race and provide fellowship for these classic cars. This is one of the best places to find information about parts, rebuilding, restoration and racing. This website is not affiliated with GM, General Motors or Chevrolet in any capacity.

Go Back   Chevy Nova Forum > Body, Chassis and Mechanical > Electrical


StevesNovaSite.com is the premier Chevrolet Nova Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 2nd-April-2013, 01:41 AM   #1
snakejake

Title: Nova Newbie
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Nova(s): 1970 Nova - Forest Green
Posts: 7
1970 Nova purple wire questions

Just got my first Nova. I am going through it and trying to make things "right" and taking out/fixing all the butchered wiring that has been done over the past 43 years. I have been chasing the PURPLE WIRE and am not sure why it is the way it is. Any help would be much appreciated.

Some information about the car: 1970, V8, former AC car (no compressor or condenser any longer), originally an automatic on the column and now it is an automatic on the floor.

To start,

At the firewall on the outside of the vehicle, the PURPLE WIRE is cut very short and goes nowhere.

On the inside of the car through the junction block, the PURPLE WIRE comes up on the left side of the steering column and is spliced into 2. One of the splices goes nowhere and the other splice goes to a module on the passenger side. (SEE PICTURE #1) What is this module? Should the wire that goes nowhere go somewhere?

Then there is a PURPLE WIRE that comes from the starter to the inside of the vehicle and is spliced into a GREEN WIRE in the harness near the steering column. (SEE PICTURE #2) Why would this be spliced together? What would happen if I put the GREEN WIRES back together? Where would I run the PURPLE WIRE from the starter?

What is the plug/pigtail on right side of the engine bay near the cowl with the purple wire cut off? (SEE PICTURE #3) Do I need this?

Also, how similar is a 1969 Nova harness to a 1970 Nova harness? I have a chance to pick one up.

Any help would be much appreciated. I did order a wiring manual so I hope that helps as well.

Thanks for your help.

Last edited by snakejake; 7th-April-2013 at 03:18 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 2nd-April-2013, 03:32 AM   #2
603 chevy II

Title: Nova Senior Member
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NH
Nova(s): 63 HT
Posts: 473
I not sure this will help but when I rewired my car (63) there were 2 purple wires but on the inside of the car, They are the Nutural Saftey Switch. They need to be wired to the shifter or wired together in order for the car to start.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd-April-2013, 04:11 AM   #3
siege
 
siege's Avatar

Title: Nova Junior Member
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: marietta, ga
Nova(s): 1971
Posts: 72
check out the best of electrical for all your color identification needs

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...ad.php?t=91875


pretty sure the wiring harness's are the same.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd-April-2013, 10:50 AM   #4
Jayhawk500
 
Jayhawk500's Avatar

Title: Nova Guru
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Warrenton, Or
Posts: 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by snakejake View Post
Just got my first Nova. I am going through it and trying to make things "right" and taking out/fixing all the butchered wiring that has been done over the past 43 years. I have been chasing the PURPLE WIRE and am not sure why it is the way it is. Any help would be much appreciated.

Some information about the car: 1970, V8, former AC car (no compressor or condenser any longer), originally an automatic on the column and now it is an automatic on the floor.

To start,

At the firewall on the outside of the vehicle, the PURPLE WIRE is cut very short and goes nowhere.

On the inside of the car through the junction block, the PURPLE WIRE comes up on the left side of the steering column and is spliced into 2. One of the splices goes nowhere and the other splice goes to a module on the passenger side. (SEE PICTURE #1) What is this module? Should the wire that goes nowhere go somewhere?

Then there is a PURPLE WIRE that comes from the starter to the inside of the vehicle and is spliced into a GREEN WIRE in the harness near the steering column. (SEE PICTURE #2) Why would this be spliced together? What would happen if I put the GREEN WIRES back together? Where would I run the PURPLE WIRE from the starter?

What is the plug/pigtail on right side of the engine bay near the cowl with the purple wire cut off? (SEE PICTURE #3) Do I need this?

Also, how similar is a 1969 Nova harness to a 1970 Nova harness? I have a chance to pick one up.

Any help would be much appreciated. I did order a wiring manual so I hope that helps as well.

Thanks for your help.
A little bad news...It appears that your dash harness is from a '74 Nova, only because the item in your first picture is the interlock relay for the seat belt/starter system. I removed this when I rewired my car. The purple wire is/was part of the netural start wiring. If you look at the wiring diagrahm for the '74 you'll find this part. http://www.novareference.com/manuals.../74_Page_6.pdf (top right corner). The grn and purple wires are as well. These went to the manual start relay on the firewall in the engine compartment for 1974.

The link below is for a '70 Nova engine bay wiring.
http://www.novareference.com/manuals...iring_left.jpg
What are the other colors of the wires in the third picture? It's hard to tell.
It seems, that this engine harness is not of the '70 year vintage either.
__________________
Jayhawk500

'74 Nova, 355 cid, Turbo 350. Front Disc Brakes.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd-April-2013, 01:19 AM   #5
snakejake

Title: Nova Newbie
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Nova(s): 1970 Nova - Forest Green
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayhawk500 View Post
A little bad news...It appears that your dash harness is from a '74 Nova, only because the item in your first picture is the interlock relay for the seat belt/starter system. I removed this when I rewired my car. The purple wire is/was part of the netural start wiring. If you look at the wiring diagrahm for the '74 you'll find this part. http://www.novareference.com/manuals.../74_Page_6.pdf (top right corner). The grn and purple wires are as well. These went to the manual start relay on the firewall in the engine compartment for 1974.

The link below is for a '70 Nova engine bay wiring.
http://www.novareference.com/manuals...iring_left.jpg
What are the other colors of the wires in the third picture? It's hard to tell.
It seems, that this engine harness is not of the '70 year vintage either.
Everyone, thanks for your help.

I thought something seemed a little out of place when I started going through the wiring.

The colors in the third picture are yellow, light blue, light green and the thicker wire is purple. Not sure what would have plugged into this.

The vehicle has HEI on it and I see the wire spliced into the engine harness to fit into the cap. Also the alternator has a wire going from the back of it and it is joined into the RED WIRE that comes out of the firewall from the inside junction box. There was a red and black wire that plug into the alternator. The red wire extended to the interior of the vehicle and went into the junction box and the black wire was cut and goes nowhere. There is no voltage regulator present.

Any ideas about all the engine wiring?

Is this a 1 wire alternator?

Thanks again!
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd-April-2013, 10:19 AM   #6
72novaproject
 
72novaproject's Avatar

Title: Nova Guru
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: D/FW
Nova(s): 72, 67
Posts: 1,207
Just a few random commentsÖ

I would be helpful if we knew what was operational on your car and what doesnít work. If a wire is cut off but the component works it has been wired around the original circuit somehow. If it doesnít work we need to re-create the circuit.

PICTURE #2
The original neutral safety switch is on the bottom of the steering column. This switch now needs to be on the floor shifter and most shifters come with the switch. The original wiring was a purple and a purple W/ White Stripe. From the looks of things you are lucky they even went to the trouble of hooking up the neutral safety switch.

PICTURE #3
I am currently re-wiring my car with an AAW kit and for the most part they use original GM wire colors but not always. I could look this up but I am lazy just now. My blower fan wire is orange (I converted to a factory heater only system) but I donít remember over the years that wire being orange from the factory. Seems to me it was purple also. The plug in the photo looks to be for the blower relay or the blower resistor so when you get your schematic check the colors.

Also, in the back ground I see what looks like a ballast resistor which is needed for pointís type distributor. You defiantly donít want that wired in series with your HEI.

About that alternator. It may or may not be a 1 wire alternator. There is a small plug on the side with two terminals labeled #1 & #2. The #1 terminal is the exciter wire and comes from the dash charge warning light. The light provides resistance and sends a reduced voltage to this terminal to excite the alternator to start charging. The #2 terminal is a remote voltage sensing terminal that was originally connected to the horn relay on the core support. Some people loop this terminal directly to the back of the alternator output stud which works but not as efficiently as it could otherwise. The wires have been changed so colors wonít help. Need to know the terminal numbers to go farther.

Most of my wiring is custom but the alternator wiring is shown in this diagram of my main power distribution circuit and shows the concept.


Hope this helps,

Steve
__________________
To each problem...exists a solution...now think.

http://www.picturetrail.com/zdnova

Half built 383, MT Tires, and 20 lb of Mig wire.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd-April-2013, 10:01 PM   #7
snakejake

Title: Nova Newbie
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Nova(s): 1970 Nova - Forest Green
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by 72novaproject View Post
Just a few random commentsÖ

I would be helpful if we knew what was operational on your car and what doesnít work. If a wire is cut off but the component works it has been wired around the original circuit somehow. If it doesnít work we need to re-create the circuit.

PICTURE #2
The original neutral safety switch is on the bottom of the steering column. This switch now needs to be on the floor shifter and most shifters come with the switch. The original wiring was a purple and a purple W/ White Stripe. From the looks of things you are lucky they even went to the trouble of hooking up the neutral safety switch.

PICTURE #3
I am currently re-wiring my car with an AAW kit and for the most part they use original GM wire colors but not always. I could look this up but I am lazy just now. My blower fan wire is orange (I converted to a factory heater only system) but I donít remember over the years that wire being orange from the factory. Seems to me it was purple also. The plug in the photo looks to be for the blower relay or the blower resistor so when you get your schematic check the colors.

Also, in the back ground I see what looks like a ballast resistor which is needed for pointís type distributor. You defiantly donít want that wired in series with your HEI.

About that alternator. It may or may not be a 1 wire alternator. There is a small plug on the side with two terminals labeled #1 & #2. The #1 terminal is the exciter wire and comes from the dash charge warning light. The light provides resistance and sends a reduced voltage to this terminal to excite the alternator to start charging. The #2 terminal is a remote voltage sensing terminal that was originally connected to the horn relay on the core support. Some people loop this terminal directly to the back of the alternator output stud which works but not as efficiently as it could otherwise. The wires have been changed so colors wonít help. Need to know the terminal numbers to go farther.

Most of my wiring is custom but the alternator wiring is shown in this diagram of my main power distribution circuit and shows the concept.


Hope this helps,

Steve
Steve, thanks for your input.

As of right now, I am not sure what works and what doesn't. I bought this car and about the only thing that it has going for it is an original AZ body. It has been painted from green, to white, blue and now burgundy. Interior has been converted to red from its original green with what appears to be a spray can and Walmart fabric.

I bought the car not running. The guy stated that it has not run in over 5 years but ran when he parked it. My first order of business planned before I hook up a battery is to clean up the wiring. I moved the battery up to the front of the vehicle as it was mounted in the trunk. I am just trying to figure out what goes where and what isn't needed.

It looks like there is no switch or wiring hooked up to the aftermarket floor shifter.

As for the the blower relay, that is what I kind of figured it was.

As for the alternator, there is a plug that goes into it. The #2 wire goes into the firewall and into the junction box. See photo of alt.

Thanks again for all your help.

Last edited by snakejake; 7th-April-2013 at 03:18 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th-April-2013, 12:02 PM   #8
72novaproject
 
72novaproject's Avatar

Title: Nova Guru
iTrader: (0)
Status: Offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: D/FW
Nova(s): 72, 67
Posts: 1,207
Sounds like you have quite the project on your hands there but my hat is off to you for saving another Nova.

When you get your schematic the alternator will show a remote voltage regulator rather than that 3 wire alternator. A lot has been written about the conversions so sorting that out shouldn’t be a big problem. Provided everything in the dash is the way it came all the work will be under the hood.

I have started on cars in that condition (both of my sons cars and my wife’s 66 Mustang Convertible) and I always felt like the minimum requirement (electrically that is) before moving forward was the things that make it reliable and safe. The starting, charging, and ignition circuits take priority and the rest can be sorted out later. I don’t need to stress the importance of an operational neutral safety switch and the first and last question I always ask myself is “Where Is the Circuit Protection?”. If you run over someone including yourself or the car burns to the ground you’re going to have a bad day. Everything else on the car is pretty much for your convenience.

I say hook that alternator up the way it should be and go through all the main power wires and insure they have fusible links on them. Ground the engine to the frame, battery and body. Sort out that neutral safety switch and see what she does. Check for full battery voltage on the wire to the HEI. The factory used a resistor wire from the bulkhead connector to the points distributor and if you use that wire your ignition will be less efficient than it could be but should still run.

I am not sure how you are testing your circuits but I have a great volt/amp/ohm meter I bought when my old analog Snap-On stuff finally died a few years ago. Should have got one sooner. I bought it on line but I have noticed that Auto Zone (I think) sells them. The brand is “Innova” and it sells for around 85.00 which isn’t half bad. Like I said I am wiring my car (that’s why I hang out in this forum a lot these days) and I tested every circuit before I hooked up a battery. Finally went hot last night and I am pleased to say the only thing that didn’t meet my expectations was the led indicator light for my nitrous bottle opener. I owe that to being able to properly test things first.

Well crap. Now I think I should have waited. The price has gone down and it comes with more stuff now. This is the same model I have.

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3340-Automotive-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000KIMHRQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365091006&sr=8-2&keywords=inova+volt+meters http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3340-Automotive-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000KIMHRQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365091006&sr=8-2&keywords=inova+volt+meters



Good luck and let us know if we can help,

Steve
__________________
To each problem...exists a solution...now think.

http://www.picturetrail.com/zdnova

Half built 383, MT Tires, and 20 lb of Mig wire.

Last edited by 72novaproject; 4th-April-2013 at 12:05 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1970 TCS wire clip lcmc Originality 2 3rd-December-2011 05:03 PM
1970 nova rebuild project questions!!!! 70chevynovabbc Drivetrain & Performance 4 18th-September-2010 12:28 AM
questions regarding a 1970 nova ss 1970ss 3rd Generation Chevy II/Nova's 5 9th-September-2010 02:09 AM
1970 SS Tack wire number on plug Novahead Originality 9 3rd-December-2009 05:47 PM
I need license light wire length, 1970 DAVES7DNOVA Originality 1 25th-March-2009 09:53 PM


Site best viewed set to 1024 x 768.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:34 PM.

Custom Designed for Steve's Nova Site by: vBSkinworks

 
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Lt

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.