Wetsanding and buffing - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 12th-January-2013, 03:48 PM   #1
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Wetsanding and buffing

I just had my nova painted and the painter told me to wait 30 days to wetsand and buff but I looked at the tech sheet from the paint/clear and it says to do it after 48 hrs what should I do?? It says more time will make it harder to cut could the painter be saying that because its cold outside?? the car feel dry to the touch and I took my nail to an area and couldnt dig into it. its basecoat clearcoat and was painted on thursday
it has quit a bit of orange peel should I start with 800 or 1000 grit? thxs
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Old 12th-January-2013, 04:03 PM   #2
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It's black, you better get on it. Go with the tech sheet. I have painted about 15 cars and some of the clears I have should you can get on within 24 hrs. Black is the hardest to get the scratches out of. You see everything in it. Start with 800 until you get almost all the orange pill out then jump on 1000 if its that bad. If its fresh I think you could get away with 1500 next and then 2000.... You wait much longer you'll have to go a little finer. I use a color sanding DA that has a 3/32 orbit and you can get a 3000 grit you use with a little water and it really dose nice on black. Good luck and I would say get after it.


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Old 12th-January-2013, 04:52 PM   #3
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when i wet sanded mine, my uncle (paint and body guy) told me to wait a week or 2 for the paint to harden so it would be harder for me to sand through the clear into the base since it was my first time wet sanding. i started with 800 grit and then went to 1000 then 1500. the buffing compound i got said it will take 1200 grit scratches and finer out so i didnt think it was worth going to 2000 or 3000. i used plenty of water when wet sanding and another thing i found out is the white milky looking stuff that comes off when wet sanding and when it dries its a tough SOB to get off the car, so wash it off the car when its still wet.

everyone told me i had to go to 2000 or 3000 for it to look good but 1500 looks DAM nice




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Old 12th-January-2013, 06:21 PM   #4
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Doesn't 30 days come "after 48 hours"? I don't see a conflict.
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Old 12th-January-2013, 06:22 PM   #5
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thanks!

will this polisher be ok? http://www.harborfreight.com/6-varia...her-69924.html

or do I need a name brand one?
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Old 12th-January-2013, 07:06 PM   #6
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you dont want a Orbital for that job.
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Old 12th-January-2013, 07:07 PM   #7
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you dont want a Orbital for that job.
Sanding Polishing
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Old 12th-January-2013, 07:09 PM   #8
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Sanding compounding
like this for polishing
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/to...FU-d4AodJSUAxg
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Old 12th-January-2013, 07:27 PM   #9
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Actually Jim, the first one, the dual action type is better for polishing and the one you posted is better for buffing.
The DA style doesn't work well for compound but is best for polish, ESPECIALLY BLACK!!!!.
The second one is for compound and will work for polish but is going to be difficult for a beginner with black.

drnova69, the "ideal" time to sand the clear depends on alot of variables with the brand and type of clear being the biggest one.
Based on what you posted, I would start sanding.
LOTS of water (if wet sanding). Be anal about dirt, keep the car, block, paper, everything completely clean.
A finishing DA for sanding is a little advanced, probably not worht the risk of the learning curve for one job. The finish DA is also fussier about optimum curing time than wet sanding is.
Post back after sanding if you need compounding help.
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Old 12th-January-2013, 08:17 PM   #10
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When color sanding put the water in a bucket and add a little bit of Dawn Dish soap. The soap will help the paper slide and help eliminate build up on the sand paper.

Bryan
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Old 12th-January-2013, 08:32 PM   #11
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Actually Jim, the first one, the dual action type is better for polishing and the one you posted is better for buffing.
The DA style doesn't work well for compound but is best for polish, ESPECIALLY BLACK!!!!.
The second one is for compound and will work for polish but is going to be difficult for a beginner with black.

drnova69, the "ideal" time to sand the clear depends on alot of variables with the brand and type of clear being the biggest one.
Based on what you posted, I would start sanding.
LOTS of water (if wet sanding). Be anal about dirt, keep the car, block, paper, everything completely clean.
A finishing DA for sanding is a little advanced, probably not worht the risk of the learning curve for one job. The finish DA is also fussier about optimum curing time than wet sanding is.
Post back after sanding if you need compounding help.
A true polisher will all ways do a better job. But they require skills that not ever one has.
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Old 12th-January-2013, 08:59 PM   #12
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A true polisher will all ways do a better job. But they require skills that not ever one has.
What do you mean?

A polisher is easier and safer, requires less skill than a rotary buffer.
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Old 12th-January-2013, 09:12 PM   #13
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What do you mean?

A polisher is easier and safer, requires less skill than a rotary buffer.
A polisher (DA) is easier and safer for someone who just beginning I agree. I think a rotary Polisher/ sander style in the hands of the right person will allway get you a better looking job.
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Old 12th-January-2013, 09:42 PM   #14
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A polisher (DA) is easier and safer for someone who just beginning I agree. I think a rotary Polisher/ sander style in the hands of the right person will allway get you a better looking job.
I guess we'll disagree then
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Old 12th-January-2013, 10:09 PM   #15
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When color sanding put the water in a bucket and add a little bit of Dawn Dish soap. The soap will help the paper slide and help eliminate build up on the sand paper.

Bryan
I would agree on this for sure...


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