1962 Chevy II Rear end Identification - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 1st-January-2013, 07:31 PM   #1
gbrogdon
 
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1962 Chevy II Rear end Identification

Upon our Rebuild / Restoration Project I found out that our 1962 has a different rear end we were to replace the calipers and rear brakes but 1962 calipers were no where close to fitting. Also What is best option on aftermarket Front end steering linkage so as not to have slop while steering
a little about our build

1962 Chevy II 2 door Postal car 52,000 orig mil.
orig 4 cylinder 153 removed and replaced with 355 CI built Chevy Crate engine
W/297/289 High lift Crane cam
Keith Black Hyper Euretec Pistons
Factory Heads W/HD springs
Edelbrock 650 cfm New Carb
Gorilla Kit Race Clutch Kit with New Fly wheel
Arp bolts throughout
3 inch true Tube exhaust with 3" flowmasters
1 7/8 Pro comp Headers
14" Rims and tires
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Old 1st-January-2013, 07:59 PM   #2
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Calipers or wheel cylinders?
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Old 1st-January-2013, 11:07 PM   #3
gbrogdon
 
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Originally Posted by sbc1320 View Post
Calipers or wheel cylinders?
Yes wheel cylinders sorry replaced the calipers on the front from what I was told being a postal car usps ordered back in 1962 with disc on the front actually before they were an option
The other way I found out was on napa computer when I ordered pads for the front for a 1962 it had in parentheses "postal" and they actually had them in stock. But the back is another year it has the 12 bolt diff. Any way of finding out year and vehicle?
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Old 1st-January-2013, 11:39 PM   #4
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no '62 had discs. '65 was the first year on Vettes. 1967 was the first ChevyII/Nova disc optioned car. if you have 4 piston calipers on the car they're more than likely '67 units.

still rare, but not '62's. NAPA catalogs as all computer catalogs are vastly incorrect in countless ways...
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Old 1st-January-2013, 11:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbc1320 View Post
Calipers or wheel cylinders?
Yes wheel cylinders sorry replaced the calipers on the front from what I was told being a postal car usps ordered back in 1962 with disc on the front actually before they were an option
The other way I found out was on napa computer when I ordered pads for the front for a 1962 it had in parentheses "postal" and they actually had them in stock. But the back is another year it has the 12 bolt diff. Any way of finding out year and vehicle?
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Old 1st-January-2013, 11:58 PM   #6
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Double post? Thanks for the replies so this car is a mixup of models. It was a family purchase it has been in my wifes family since 1973 where it was covered in a barn on blocks for 19 years
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Old 2nd-January-2013, 12:02 AM   #7
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can you snap a few pics of the car and post 'em up for us? Photobucket is free & easy. under the hood, the Cowl & VIN tags. we can tell you exactly what you have. many things can happen to one of these cars after they leave the factory.

i'm surprised for a 153 it has discs and a 12 bolt. get us some additional info and we'll see what's up.

a Postal vehicle, in my mind would be right hand drive.
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Old 3rd-January-2013, 01:31 AM   #8
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I think they used the same wheel cylinders from 65-81 weather it was a 10 or 12 bolt.

Miles
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Old 17th-February-2013, 12:09 PM   #9
gbrogdon
 
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Where Is my power Going?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrogdon View Post
Upon our Rebuild / Restoration Project I found out that our 1962 has a different rear end we were to replace the calipers and rear brakes but 1962 calipers were no where close to fitting. Also What is best option on aftermarket Front end steering linkage so as not to have slop while steering
a little about our build

1962 Chevy II 2 door Postal car 52,000 orig mil.
orig 4 cylinder 153 removed and replaced with 355 CI built Chevy Crate engine
W/297/289 High lift Crane cam
Keith Black Hyper Euretec Pistons
Factory Heads W/HD springs
Edelbrock 650 cfm New Carb
Gorilla Kit Race Clutch Kit with New Fly wheel
Arp bolts throughout
3 inch true Tube exhaust with 3" flowmasters
1 7/8 Pro comp Headers
14" Rims and tires
************************************************** ******
With more research I found out I have 3:37 Gears (11:37 tooth)
my Problem is at 60 im running 3700 rpms and at 70 it feels like its going to explode at 4500 rpms. I have purchased 3:55 as some of you suggested but am I going the wrong way? I need more speed at less rpm.
transmission is a Muncie M-20 4 speed running exactly 26" of tire
the rear gears are stamped 11:37 A-65
I'm about to pull my hair out.



Last edited by gbrogdon; 17th-February-2013 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 17th-February-2013, 12:16 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=gbrogdon;2022622]************************************************** ******
With more research I found out I have 3:37 Gears (11:37 tooth)
my Problem is at 60 im running 3700 rpms and at 70 it feels like its going to explode at 4500 rpms. I have purchased 3:55 as some of you suggested but am I going the wrong way? I need more speed at less rpm.
transmission is a Muncie M-20 4 speed running exactly 26" of tire
the rear gears are stamped 11:37 A-65
I'm about to pull my hair out.


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Old 18th-February-2013, 10:16 AM   #11
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First that is a 10 bolt diff and second if you are trying to lower the rpms then 3.55 would be the wrong direction from 3.36 gears. Another thing what is the overall height of your rear wheels in inches?

Miles
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Old 18th-February-2013, 10:29 AM   #12
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I am running 3:50 gears in my 8.2 with the M20 wide ratio trans and I have a little shorter tire. I am turning nowhere near the RPM you are talking about with mine at those speeds.

I would recheck your ratio that you currently have in the car.
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Old 18th-February-2013, 11:10 AM   #13
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The 11:37 is the number of teeth in the ring and pinion. 11/37 = 3.36 ratio. If you are going to do a bunch of highway driving, you might want 3.08 or 2.73 gears...but you'll sacrifice some acceleration 'oomph' by doing that.

Just a thought...but are you sure you're really going 60 or 70 and not faster? Granted that's not the whole problem, but it could be part of it.

Just because the speedometer reads that doesn't mean it's correct. The speedometer reading is dependent on the rear gear ratio, the speedo gear in the transmission, and the size (diameter) of the tire.

Check your speedo reading against a GPS or against someone else pacing you in a car with an accurate speedo.

Another thing to check...you sure the tach is reading correctly? Most of them are set up for 4/6/8 cylinders by setting little switches or clipping wire loops. If the tach was configured for 4cyl and you're running it on an 8cyl now, that would make it read 2x high since twice as many cyls are firing each revolution, and the tach will see twice as many pulses.
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Last edited by patman; 18th-February-2013 at 11:15 AM.
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