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I recently dissambled my sbc 350 that I had planned to build a 383 stroker out of. It was already bored over .030. There are slight grooves in a couple of the cylinders, Im being told i will need to bore it out to .060 over in order to use the block. I plan on putting quite a bit of cash into this build, and dont want to waste my money on a time bomb. If I end up using this block would it be reliable? Will it be able to stand up to 400-500hp? Or should i just find myself another block? Im a first time engine builder and i want to do it right the first time. I plan on driving the car 2-3 times a week, and the occasional dragstrip on the weekend. Any comments , thoughts, or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
you can just as easily break a std bore block... it's not the bore it's the components and how they work together and your care/use of the engine which will determine how long it'll last... don't worry about the 350 going .060 over... if you are concerned, have it sonic checked. that will tell thickness of bores etc... most cases though a 350 is OK for the .060 over bore...
350 cylinder walls are plenty thick to handle .060 over.
I have to disagee as I sonic test every OEM block that comes in my shop so far I find very few 350 blocks that would be safe at .060 over using for a performance build.
Guessing at cylinder wall thickness does not work very well.
Is anybody running a .060 block? I plan on going the aluminum head and roller cam and lifters route. Once i get my car together, I plan to drive it like I stole it. With that being said i want it to be reliable at the same time. Im not trying to throw money down the drain.
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CNC?-Older blocks with longer ID pad thicker blocks generally?
From what I see the later blocks maybe better because of technology gains, I have about 25 blocks where one cylinder has failed making the block junk for a performance build.
Going by core shift is a poor indicator from what I have seen.
I don't give ill advice or look into the crystal ball I sonic test each block. I move alot of blocks in a years time not many OEM's since the Dart SHP block. When I do have OEM block guys do want them sonic tested.
My 383 is .60 over. 4 bolt mains. All good parts in her.
Aluminum heads.
Zero issues since its build in 2005
Once I solved a heat issue, I can drive it till my wallet goes empty.
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'67 Acadian
388sbc 500+ hp/tq
3,048 lbs w/ 10 pt cage & all steel body
I have to disagee as I sonic test every OEM block that comes in my shop so far I find very few 350 blocks that would be safe at .060 over using for a performance build.
Guessing at cylinder wall thickness does not work very well.
My block is a 010 block 4 bolt main. Im beginning to like what i hear. Do all machine shops sonic test blocks? Or do i have to ask for this?
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Just the good shops sonic LOL. I do sonic testing for a lot of the local shops the tool was only 1200 dollars but is needed when building performance engines.
Its always nice to know what you have for a foundation before do any machine work.
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With that being said i want it to be reliable at the same time. Im not trying to throw money down the drain. 
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