Steve's Nova Site is an automotive enthusiast website dedicated to the 1962 - 1979 Chevrolet Nova, Chevy II and Acadian automobiles. We work together to preserve, restore, drive, show, race and provide fellowship for these classic cars. This is one of the best places to find information about parts, rebuilding, restoration and racing. This website is not affiliated with GM, General Motors or Chevrolet in any capacity.
I am getting ready to pull the motor and will eventually pull the trans probably as well.
I wanted to find out what everyones experience has been in pulling the motor and trans together or should I just pull the motor by itself as planned and do the trans later.
I will not be taking the front end sheetmetal apart at all so clearance could definitely be an issue.
__________________
PLDbryan
1963 SS
383 Forged Bottom/AFR top/Solid Bullet Cam in the middle
Muncie 4spd
F@&^ 9" Rearend
If its the stock setup you can get by with them together. I know you dont want to take apart the front end but at least the grille and possibly the hood for insurance. Just my .2
Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide.Com Free App
Hood off of course, pull them together works fine.
Unbolting 2 of the upper bellhousing bolts is hard unless you remove the trans mount and crossmember, then lower the back of the trans first. Then you can get those bolts with one of those 2 or 3 foot extensions and a 9/16" swivel socket.
__________________
Carl (in the prairies...)
65 Canso Sport Deluxe
67 SS 327
I've always removed the hood and grille and pulled them together. This time I pulled just the engine and left the tranny in the car. However, now I have a lift so I could get around underneath to get to bellhousing bolts etc. Motor is done and just broke in on the test stand this past weekend so when I get time in the near future I'm going back in. Hope it goes in as easy as it came out. I thought doing engine separate was easier but again, I have the luxury of a lift.
I pulled motor and trans ( 4-speed ) together ---- took off hood - grill ANYTHING that would catch on something.. Made the mistake of not putting it back in the same way....tranny was a pian in d *****.
With some Novas, you can loosen the rear transmission mount bolts and jack up the transmission just enough, in the tunnel, to get at the top transmission housing bolts.
I will likely pull them seperate as I will probably do it alone and I would imagine just the motor would be a little easier to manage around than all at once.
Motor has been in for close to 18 years but I do seem to remember those upper bellhousing bolts being a bear to get at.
I have not been in any huge hurry to pull the motor and have had the new one sitting next to the car all fall waiting to get around to it. Now I am looking at it being Dec already and i realize I need to get to work. Pull motor and throw new one in is not biggie but I am going to do some tiddying up and making it more sanitary. Now I just bought a new 9" rear setup and want to strip the underside of the rear and get it looking new as well.
I got to get busy!!!!
__________________
PLDbryan
1963 SS
383 Forged Bottom/AFR top/Solid Bullet Cam in the middle
Muncie 4spd
F@&^ 9" Rearend
I did mine by myself (with help from my alter ego) as an assembly. I found that it was much easier to do and was able to use proper torque on the transmission to block bolts. This is an important step to prevent cracking the belhousing due to torque from racing.
I also noticed that the factory service manual mentions to pull the whole assembly as well.
__________________ On the first day God created Hot Rods and Harleys-then came the Demo Derby to get rid of all the rest!
I have always pulled/assembled as a whole. What a PIA to get to the bolts on the transmission, just so close to the firewall. By the time you move the engine forward and mess with getting the bolts out you could have both out together. I'd say 15-20 minutes to get both out taking your time. An engine leveler is a must though. PLus I think it's easier to assemble the engine/trans out of the car.
Finished unhooking most everything tonight and thought I would take a look at the two upper bellhousing bolts. These are the 2 that are supposed to be most difficult correct? I had plenty of room to get a box end wrench on each bolt and simply undo them. Each of these cars are different right
Still not sure if I will pull together or apart, probably decide once I get there.
__________________
PLDbryan
1963 SS
383 Forged Bottom/AFR top/Solid Bullet Cam in the middle
Muncie 4spd
F@&^ 9" Rearend
If you don't have a engine leveler to adjust angles pulling them together is a PIA and likely to mess up paint etc. unless you pull the core support & grille. I've always separated them and then pulled them. Still use a engine leveler, but don't have to mess with the core support or grille.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
) as an assembly. I found that it was much easier to do and was able to use proper torque on the transmission to block bolts. This is an important step to prevent cracking the belhousing due to torque from racing.
An engine leveler is a must though. PLus I think it's easier to assemble the engine/trans out of the car. 
Linear Mode
