64 2 ht front brake lines - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 20th-December-2010, 10:11 AM   #1
Deadly64
 
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64 2 ht front brake lines

Does anyone have a layout for the brake lines on a 1964 HT? I got mine with none, and bought a dbrake kit from CPP and looks likes I'm missing some things.
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Old 20th-December-2010, 10:36 AM   #2
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Will this help ???

http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...akeLineKit.htm



Or perhaps find something here ???

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34212
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Old 20th-December-2010, 10:56 AM   #3
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Thanks, those helped a little. I'm looking for something that shows a Nova setup with the original lines. Does anyone have these in place on there car from the factory? Where they route in the engine compartment?
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Old 20th-December-2010, 11:51 AM   #4
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I can probably find you a diagram or two.

But please let me know exactly what you bought from CPP - I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, so to speak.
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Old 20th-December-2010, 11:57 AM   #5
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i hope you're plumbing in a dual pot/dual chamber master cylinder

your car had a single pot master cylinder from the factory... so the line comes out of the master and drops to the left front wheel. it then tee's off and wraps around the radiator support to the passenger wheel. it then tee's again, going to passenger wheel and then splits off to the rear.

you'll run the fronts just like factory and then run another line parallel and then using an inverted flared coupler, connect it to the existing line for the rear brakes.

the tee on the passenger side inner fender where the rear line connected to will be plugged with an inverted flare plug.

no pipe plugs, this has to be an "Inverted Flare" style plug... all the major chains of part stores will carry this in stock... CarQuest, NAPA etc...
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Old 20th-December-2010, 12:08 PM   #6
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You can find the diagrams for the original 2-pot master cylinder setup in the below link.

Keep in mind this is for an original 4-drum brake configuration.

There are also 1963 and 1965 assembly manuals available - but as Flyer noted, these would pertain to 1-pot master cylinders.

Part 5 & 6
http://www.mediafire.com/?wzditmmyndf
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the FLYER View Post
i hope you're plumbing in a dual pot/dual chamber master cylinder

your car had a single pot master cylinder from the factory... so the line comes out of the master and drops to the left front wheel. it then tee's off and wraps around the radiator support to the passenger wheel. it then tee's again, going to passenger wheel and then splits off to the rear.

you'll run the fronts just like factory and then run another line parallel and then using an inverted flared coupler, connect it to the existing line for the rear brakes.

the tee on the passenger side inner fender where the rear line connected to will be plugged with an inverted flare plug.

no pipe plugs, this has to be an "Inverted Flare" style plug... all the major chains of part stores will carry this in stock... CarQuest, NAPA etc...
This helped out with what i was needing. So i need to run an additional line to either feed my Rear brakes or the passenger side disk. See that is why i was confused, you would think the kit would come with the additional line to run either the rears or the passenger side disk. But nope, it just comes with a preformed one to run the passenger disk. Thanks for your help guys. The link below is the kit i purchased.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...a/6264CBKS.htm
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:11 PM   #8
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in the picture they show the two lines... they are the real long units shaped somewhat like a "U"

those lines connect to the factory tee's that also have the small jumper line that runs from the tee to the frame bracket for the brake hose.

once you really get into it you'll see exactly what's being referred to... i don't think you should have too-too much trouble.

i'd really recommend that you spend an additional $20-25 bucks or so and replace the rear brake hose that's somewhat centrally located over the differential. the hose will be worn i guarantee you. doing the complete job now will save time & money down the road...
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:13 PM   #9
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Here's a pic of the Proportioning block that is being used. I think i need to run the rear brakes right out of the back of the block? Then run the fronts off each spot on the front of the block? Then the other to ports go from the reservoir to the master cylinder.



http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...Trucks/PV4.htm
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:16 PM   #10
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the valve may have two front ports but generally only one is used, the other plugged

the rear, well... it goes to the rear
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:21 PM   #11
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in the picture they show the two lines... they are the real long units shaped somewhat like a "U"

those lines connect to the factory tee's that also have the small jumper line that runs from the tee to the frame bracket for the brake hose.

once you really get into it you'll see exactly what's being referred to... i don't think you should have too-too much trouble.

i'd really recommend that you spend an additional $20-25 bucks or so and replace the rear brake hose that's somewhat centrally located over the differential. the hose will be worn i guarantee you. doing the complete job now will save time & money down the road...
Thanks for the reply. I've actually had this kit for 2 years and am just now installing it. I found the problem, they didn't send the extra line. They only sent one!!!!! GRRRRRR I just talked to them and they won't send a replacement, since it was purchased so long ago. I will just have to make my own. I should be trucking now! Of course i'm missing the t blocks for inner fenders. Any ideas where to purchase the original t blocks, or the specs on them?
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:23 PM   #12
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the valve may have two front ports but generally only one is used, the other plugged

the rear, well... it goes to the rear
Is there a issue with running them off there own ports? It doesn't matter to me, but if the technology is there i will use it.
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:25 PM   #13
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well... not ta rag on ya... but...

if it's been that long to do what you're doing then don't get all fired up now, be patient and post a Classified "Wanted Ad" for the blocks. it's not a big deal and in all honesty... did they even offer the TWO lines when you originally bought the kit? a new line to buy and bend probably isn't even 10 bucks. just be careful not to kink it while bending.

also, the rear line i believe is 1/4" not 3/16 like the fronts so make sure you get the right sized line


you've already got 19 posts, all seemingly qualified posts. you need 25 to post in the classifieds. only 6 more (no BS garbage posts) and you can post an ad for the blocks
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:28 PM   #14
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Is there a issue with running them off there own ports? It doesn't matter to me, but if the technology is there i will use it.
well, then you'll be running more lines than necessary. i think it should always be a case of K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) not you, just an old acronym

plug the one and use the single line. it'll cut down on the stuff you have to do and you won't have to spend the extra cash
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Old 20th-December-2010, 01:30 PM   #15
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True i didn't think about them changing the kit. Lol Ahh I'm not getting fired up, been doing body work/engine work for 4 years, so just ready to get it done.

Does classic industries sell the t blocks? I didn't see them.
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