First gen. mini tubbed to rails. Rear end width? - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 15th-September-2010, 06:54 AM   #1
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Question First gen. mini tubbed to rails. Rear end width?

Hey guys,
I have mini tubbed my 65 two door post to the frame rails (the 2" mini tub) and I am wondering what the best rear end width would be. I do not want a rim with a large backspacing as I would be limited on rim selection and would have a shallow rim lip. I have a Ford nine inch. What is your overall width wheel mounting surface to whel mounting surface. The rear has drums now but I am also thinking of going with disc brakes.

The front spring perches are moved in 1.5" (Thanks to 62Civa's very nice perch design), I will be using the Church Boys rear springs and 1.5" offset shackles.

I know I willbe able to run an 8"wheel but what about a nine inch?

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by acd65post; 15th-September-2010 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 15th-September-2010, 03:03 PM   #2
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I've got my 63 minitubed to the frame rail.My rear is an S10 that is 54.25 in. wide and I have a 10 in. wide wheel on it that clears.
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Old 15th-September-2010, 07:53 PM   #3
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Thanks Tuckin20's. Your avatar drives me nuts

Anyone else?

Last edited by acd65post; 19th-January-2012 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 16th-September-2010, 02:38 AM   #4
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The only way to know what will fit is to measure your wheelhouse. Build a simple tool or buy a WheelRite from Jeg's or Summit etc. It will simulate pretty much any wheel/tire combination for width, section width, backspacing etc.

I've bought wheels & tires that I wanted and put them up in the wheelwells at ride height, then measured mounting surface to mounting surface to get the overall rear end width and had the rearend narrowed to get what I needed. You can get wheels built to pretty much any reasonable backspacing if you go with a quality wheel. You have to usually call the manufacturer and tell them what you need. Distributors sometimes don't want to deal with anything that isn't off their shelves and tell you they can't get them.

Be aware also that each vendor's tires are usually not the exact size as another vendor's tires even though they have the same size stamped on them. You will need to look at the spec sheets to get the actualy physical sizes for section width, diameter, recommended rim widths etc.

This is a good reads on how to measure.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ent/index.html
http://tunertools.com/articles/Wheel-Fitment.asp
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Old 16th-September-2010, 12:40 PM   #5
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Use Mike's advise to figure out which tires will fit your car first, buy the rims you want, place the tire wheel combination in the wheelwells where you want them to sit and measure the distance between the mounting surfaces. Instant rear end width.
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Old 16th-September-2010, 05:38 PM   #6
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Thanks guys,
I def. only want to do this once
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Old 16th-September-2010, 05:55 PM   #7
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I'll throw this out there as well. If you go any narrower than 53" a/f to a/f you will start running into brake caliper clearance issues on the rail.

We typically run a 53" wide axle because 10" wide wheels with 5" backspacing fit and are a dime a dozen.

-J
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Old 18th-September-2010, 08:43 PM   #8
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^^^This is good to know. Right now I am looking at going with narrowing the rear an inch per side,maybe 1.25 per side.
I could probably go with the width I have now but I think I will be quite limited to wheel selection as I probably would be looking at a 5"back space. I also do not want a shallow lip on what ever rim I decide to run.
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Old 18th-September-2010, 09:04 PM   #9
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I did a 2" mini tub on my 65. Except we didn't use the stock stamped sheet metal rails. We cut them out and installed a set of C/E rear frame rails and crossmember. We used the mono leafs with Cal Traks, and a 9" rear. We also moved it back 1" for tire fitment. I have a MT 296/65-15 tire on a Weld 15x8, 4 1/2 back spaced wheel in the well and can slide my hand between the body and tire. I got the rear from Moser and could tell you the exact width, but every car is different. That tire is 29.8 tall and fits. You'll also need to remount the top of your shocks because the geometry won't be correct, and they'll be hard to get in the original location. Dave
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Old 18th-September-2010, 09:36 PM   #10
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^^ more food for thought, thanks.
I will be using the Church Boys springs they are in the mail
I have thought about the shock angle- some.
Did you install the new frame rails in the original spot ?
Something tells me I have seen(admired) your 65 before.
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Old 19th-September-2010, 07:31 AM   #11
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I think I may have sent you pics before. I finally have it all finished except for paint and the better engine. But the car is driveable and functioning well. After we moved the springs inboard, I saw that the shocks were going to be a problem going into the original holes on the top. I was going to make a flat plate to bolt in with a hole in it to kind of correct the problem. But instead we put a couple brackets on the cross tube and did it that way. Here's a pic.


This is a pic from another member on how he mounted his.


The rails are in, or within an inch of the original location. We mounted the crossmember an inch rearward from stock for tire fitment. Glass beaded and boxed in the original perches and welded them to the crossmember. It's nice to have something square for a good locator.



Hope this helps. Dave
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