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Progress on the 77

178K views 836 replies 87 participants last post by  northernnova 
#1 · (Edited)
Just a little update. Motor and transmission finally in, clutch linkage all in and adjusted, core support cleaned, painted and installed. New radiator in and shroud trimmed a little as needed to fit, but still needs to be cleaned. Some photos for your viewing pleasure :)


















And a part I tried to find for years and then wound up with 2. The core support to hood seal. I do not know if it has any useful purpose, but it is installed anyway.

 
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#4 ·
Thanks Jeremy it sure has been a lot of work to get it this far.

It is a 5 speed, TKO 600.

I am not sure of the application on the core support seal. I parted out lots of 4th gens, 4 doors, 2 doors, all years, models with and without AC and didn't ever see one until I bought a 76 Concours with a V8 and AC. The other one I have was in the trunk of the same car.
 
#11 ·
Thanks again for the compliments.


When is it planned for?
That's some nice work Phillip. One question about your coil over setup; looks to me like the entire sprung weight of the car front is relying on the the two little bolts that mount the shock at it's lower part. What kind of bushing does the shock have to take that kind of weight? Also do you think that those two little bolts are enough to take the stress? I know my lower a-arms in that area aren't exactly what I would call the strongest part of the a-arm there. Enough for a lower shock mount but not enough for the entire sprung weight. Did you add any reinforcement to that area to take the weight, better hardware or anything or just stock? Just concerns me that's all.

Is that throttle cable in your video the new Lokar one wire setup? Truly drive by wire? :D
The bushing in the shock is poly, the cross bar is real thick and the control arm isn't any thinner where it mounts than the area the spring seat is, but there is less surface area supporting the weight.

Phillip, you already informed me that you used por15 on your frame. i tried it, and it didnt come out as nice and smooth and shiny as your's and then after a few days it peeled off. what did i do wrong?
I blasted my frame with medium grit Black Beauty before coating. The POR 15 needs a rough surface to bond to, it will not stick to a smooth surface or other paint.
 
#8 ·
That's some nice work Phillip. One question about your coil over setup; looks to me like the entire sprung weight of the car front is relying on the the two little bolts that mount the shock at it's lower part. What kind of bushing does the shock have to take that kind of weight? Also do you think that those two little bolts are enough to take the stress? I know my lower a-arms in that area aren't exactly what I would call the strongest part of the a-arm there. Enough for a lower shock mount but not enough for the entire sprung weight. Did you add any reinforcement to that area to take the weight, better hardware or anything or just stock? Just concerns me that's all.

Is that throttle cable in your video the new Lokar one wire setup? Truly drive by wire? :D
 
#16 ·
Philip, the Nova looks like its coming along great and you engine sounds amazing.

The core support weather stripping, I've never even heard of it was it an extra option on the cars or did they all come standard with it? :confused: Neither of our Novas have it.
 
#17 ·
All the core supports have the necessary holes to mount the seal and maybe more cars had them but they were removed or torn off. I really can't say which models got them and which didn't. The car this came from was a 76 Concours, V8, with A/C. I will see what plant it was built at, maybe that would be factor.
 
#24 ·
man that clutch linkage is really close to your header i hope i dont have any issues on mine are they all that close always or is that just how urs turned out ?
Mine was that close too. I used Headman headers, but every 4th Gen manual I've ever seen has the same basic clearance, or lack thereof. I think it's a model-specific issue. Something about the location of that Zbar on the subframe, plus the engine location in the sub, plus headers = tight clearance. Maybe with plain old exhaust manifolds it fits better, I don't know. . . .

J
 
#19 ·
It hit the pipe until an adjustment was made with a BFH. In this photo you can see the frame braket has been tweaked a little. I could wacked it again but it does clear the pipe where it is at and the rod is straight, so I called it good. The clearance you have will depend on the brand of headers installed. These are Hooker model #2451.

 
#457 ·
It hit the pipe until an adjustment was made with a BFH. In this photo you can see the frame braket has been tweaked a little. I could wacked it again but it does clear the pipe where it is at and the rod is straight, so I called it good. The clearance you have will depend on the brand of headers installed. These are Hooker model #2451.


Product Metal


Auto part Cable Transmission part



This can solve alot of clearance issues,self adjusting,very smooth
 
#22 ·
That was the third one I tried and as it turns out it is NAPA's version of the stock replacement hose for a 76 Nova, 305,with A/C. The sticker will be coming off soon, but now I have a record of the number :D With a stock thermostat housing the hose would be to low to clear the alternator, this AFCO 45 degree, swivel unit worked out perfect.

The proportioning valve in the photo a few posts back is from the 82 Eldorado the rear discs came from. It was a 100% bolt on to the stock bracket and all the lines attached without changing the bends or fittings of any of them.

It is amazing how the parts I think will be the hardest to adapt turn out to be the easiest and the modifications that should be easy take days to accomplish.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Is that the alternator that came with the serp kit? Did you buy the kit or pice it together from something else, reason I ask is because your alt. is turned a little different from mine. My "B" post is closer to the valve cover, or looking at the alt. from the backside yours is turned counterclockwise from like the 2 o'clock position to the 10 o'clock position. :confused:

 
#25 ·
Is that the alternator that came with the serp kit? Did you buy the kit or pice it together from something else, reason I ask is because your alt. is turned a little different from mine. My "B" post is closer to the valve cover, or looking at the alt. from the backside yours is turned counterclockwise from like the 2 o'clock position to the 10 o'clock position. :confused:
It is the GMPP kit, same as yours. I had to index the alternator rear cover to clear the valve covers. The covers are wider and taller than stock center bolt covers. Because of the indexing I was unable to install the support brace. On the positive side the wires all tuck out of site better :)

Mine was that close too. I used Headman headers, but every 4th Gen manual I've ever seen has the same basic clearance, or lack thereof. I think it's a model-specific issue. Something about the location of that Zbar on the subframe, plus the engine location in the sub, plus headers = tight clearance. Maybe with plain old exhaust manifolds it fits better, I don't know. . . .

J
How did you get the arm to clear the headers?. I considered removing it and welding it back on a little closer to the block. In this photo you can see a white line on the cross shaft, that would have been where it needed to be placed to clear the pipes prior to the remodeling of frame bracket.

 
#26 ·
One more note on the upper hose. To use it the stepped portion of the radiator bung had to be cut off.



I found part numbers for the fan and clutch that will work with this set up.

reverse rotation Derale brand from Summit

19" fan part #17919 $37.95

clutch part #22140 $65.95

Just waiting for payday to order them.

I considered electric fans but decided against them. There are pros and cons of each, the El Camino has electric fans and does fine. For the Nova I wanted a simpler set up and will be fine with the small horsepower loss.
 
#28 ·
19" fan part #17919 $37.95

clutch part #22140 $65.95

Just waiting for payday to order them.

I considered electric fans but decided against them. There are pros and cons of each, the El Camino has electric fans and does fine. For the Nova I wanted a simpler set up and will be fine with the small horsepower loss.
I hate electric fans, too many things to go wrong, relays, wiring, sensors blah, blah, blah. Mechanical... bolt it down... done! Simple and it works and has worked like forever.

One more thing Phillip, I would also like to get that clutch set up,my flex is driving me crazy with the noise. Have you looked up specs for those parts? Meaning is it going to wind up the right distance into the shroud, the flex needed a 2" spacer. Just from looking at the pictures not scientifically it looks like a 1" spacer might be needed.

Keep us... especially me posted how it all works out, I'm glad someone else is taking the time to figure things out because I'm getting rather lazy. :D:devil:
 
#27 ·
[



I've got the same radiator, yours has the same heater outlet capped with a rubber cover that looks like it's deterioriating like mine. Are there replacements? Mine is leaking now less than 2 years old. Maybe I should pull it and have it welded shut. Or plug one on the engine & put the hose on the radiator?
 
#29 ·
How did you get the arm to clear the headers?. I considered removing it and welding it back on a little closer to the block. In this photo you can see a white line on the cross shaft, that would have been where it needed to be placed to clear the pipes prior to the remodeling of frame bracket.

[/QUOTE]

I don't think my headers are tucked quite as close to the block as yours are, because I did not have your particular problem with my Hedmans. I did have to re-locate the frame bracket towards the rear of the car about 1/2" or so. Just moved it, re-drilled, and tapped new holes. That was the only thing I had to do to make it work.

I also went with heim joints on all of the rod assembly, but I don't think that would make a huge difference from the stock set-up.

J
 
#33 ·
Still waiting on the fan and clutch. They were out of stock and will ship in the 24th. Meanwhile I hope to get the steering gear built and installed and finish up the rear disc install. Hopefully today I will get the rear calipers rebuilt and ready to go on. Summit is sending some slotted/drilled rotors for the rear and they should arrive by Wednesday.
 
#34 ·
The car angels were not with me this weekend. I tore the quick ratio steering gear apart to rebuild it and found that the housing was worn where the Teflon rings ride so no big deal I have more housings and basically they are all the same. The internal parts are what determine ratio and steering effort. Found a good housing get it all cleaned and ready to go. I dig out the kit that was purchased in March open the box and discover that someone had already been into the bag and there are parts missing. :mad: Ok I'll exchange it Monday, on to the rear brakes. Find the caliper kits and open them first to make sure they are complete. All is good, bags are still sealed. Disassemble the calipers, left one looks good, no pitting in the bore, piston and actuator are good. Open the right one up and again bore is clean, but the actuator is toast. Now here is the crazy part, NAPA sells a rebuilt loaded caliper with premium pads and all new hardware for $102.00, but the piston with the actuator alone is $114.00 :confused: So tomorrow I will be ordering a pair of rear calipers and returning the kits.
 
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