How streetable is a solid lift cam? - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 17th-November-2008, 05:07 PM   #1
fencepost
 
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How streetable is a solid lift cam?

Just what the title says. A friend has built a pretty good combo using a solid lift Isky. I will have the exact numbers later but it's around a 570 lift. My car might put in 200 miles every 2 months when I get it finished.
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Old 17th-November-2008, 05:17 PM   #2
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How streetable is a solid lifter cam????.... hummm.. every MOPAR slat six had one.. all the fulie corvettes had one... every LS6, L72, L88, LT1, Z28, 413, 426 max wedge, 351cj, boss 302, boss 429, 427 high riser, 429 scj, almost all over head cammed engines....

I also run a solid cam sporting 608/615 lift.. 5.5 years running over 6000 miles... and only 4 adjustments needed...and none in the last year....

so is it street able??? well, vacuum for power brakes is or can be a problem with long duration cams.

it all depends on what level of discomfort your willing to live with to obtain the level of performance you desire...


Good luck veno
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Old 17th-November-2008, 05:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fencepost View Post
Just what the title says. A friend has built a pretty good combo using a solid lift Isky. I will have the exact numbers later but it's around a 570 lift. My car might put in 200 miles every 2 months when I get it finished.
Define streetable..........This should make for an interesting topic.
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Old 17th-November-2008, 05:23 PM   #4
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i have run big solid cams on the street,just keep an eye out for excessive valve lash,dont let it idle to slow
don
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Old 17th-November-2008, 05:38 PM   #5
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I ran the old solid lifter 30/30 cam in my Corvette for 11 years, had EXCELLENT street manners with a 4 speed!
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Old 17th-November-2008, 05:38 PM   #6
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I ran a .625 lift and never had an issue. I had stud girdles, nothing ever loosened up.
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Old 17th-November-2008, 06:02 PM   #7
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My buddy has those to. Streetable would be defind as being able to drive at least 200 miles in a day with out having to retune when you get home, can run on pump gas 93 octane. I just don't want to spend more time adjusting the valve lash than I do driving it. I like his set-up because it was pretty straight foward and easy to build. Had cast iron heads (number unknown 202 valves), 355 ci, Edelbrock intake, 750 DP, solid lift cam and was pretty bad. I 'll have to talk to him to get the specifics but he degreed it in to a 106 lobe seperation and was running 3:42 gears, and around a 3000 stall.
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Old 17th-November-2008, 06:20 PM   #8
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I run a 383 with a 572-576 lift solid cam. I have stud girdles and I can go all summer long with no valve adjustments. I run the valves in April or May and then I check them in October. Never had to do them in between. I drive the car more than your planning so I would think you should have no problems. Good Luck! Burt.
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Old 17th-November-2008, 07:56 PM   #9
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Solid flat-tappet lifters are definitely "streetable" but they are higher maintenance than hydraulics. You will have to remove your valve covers and do the valve lash adjustment ritual occasionally. How often depends on how radical you go and whether you use quality valvetrain components like roller rockers.

Solid lifters were all I ran for years. My 70 Chevelle SS 396 came stock from the factory with them plus I ran a bunch of different solid cams on the street in my Novas. They're "old school". With stamped steel rockers adjustment becomes a frequent necessity.

Hydraulic cams and lifters have come a long way since the 60s and 70s though. I probably wouldn't run a solid flat-tappet on the street now days. There's not as much of a performance advantage now days and I definitely wouldn't run over .600 lift with a solid flat-tappet in a small block on the street. The most wear occurs during start-up and the higher the lift and spring pressure, the higher the wear.

I now run solid roller cams in all my performance engines. No flat-tappet can hold a candle against a solid roller cam for either performance or reliability.
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Old 18th-November-2008, 07:16 AM   #10
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Talking

I ran a 583/607 in my L6 on the street (with over 12-1 comp) for the better part of 17yrs before i desided to use it for track use only.
So everyone has the Own idea as to what is street able
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Old 18th-November-2008, 08:04 AM   #11
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Like Twisted said. Everyone has their own idea of what streetable is. I think for the casual user (200 miles every so often) you will not have a problem at all. If it were your daily driver and you put on 200 a day, then you might want to reconsider.
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Old 18th-November-2008, 08:57 AM   #12
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Yeh i agree just purchased a Solid roller Lunati for my 48 its 243-249 @.050 with .580 plus inch lift only power is brakes and plan on running a vacum canisiter so yeh no problem if its a pretty big stick yo umay want to run a vacum canister, plus you will love the way the solids sound and the broad power range from them go for it you will love them.
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Old 18th-November-2008, 09:53 AM   #13
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I do have power brakes and power steering I'm prepared to run a canister thats no big deal to me. I'm going to get up with the guy on the specs and may find that there's a better grind in the same area as his. This was about 5 years ago but it ran in the mid to high 6's in the 1/8 on motor in a 68 Camaro and he drove it to the track (about 45 miles round trip). It was a nice car I think it's in CA now. Just trying to get a plan together so I can start accumilating parts. The heads and intake I think will be a Vortec/Edelbrock combo sold buy Dickey Scoggins everything you need for $1089.00 holds up to a 570 lift I think. Can you run a gurdle on Vortec heads or would I be better to get some Iron Eagles? Carb will be a tried and try Holley 750. All in all it should be a pretty simple build. Still unsure on the tranny I have a good 350 turbo and a buildable 700r or 4L60E it was free how do you tell the difference? But all I need for the Turbo is a stall. (until it blows) What do yall guys think? Love to through ideals around.
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Old 18th-November-2008, 10:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burty View Post
Define streetable..........This should make for an interesting topic.
Just read my signature.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pwrtrip75 View Post
I ran a .625 lift and never had an issue. I had stud girdles, nothing ever loosened up.
ABSOLUTELY!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fencepost View Post
My buddy has those to. Streetable would be defind as being able to drive at least 200 miles in a day with out having to retune when you get home, can run on pump gas 93 octane. I just don't want to spend more time adjusting the valve lash than I do driving it. I like his set-up because it was pretty straight foward and easy to build. Had cast iron heads (number unknown 202 valves), 355 ci, Edelbrock intake, 750 DP, solid lift cam and was pretty bad. I 'll have to talk to him to get the specifics but he degreed it in to a 106 lobe seperation and was running 3:42 gears, and around a 3000 stall.
He may have degreed it in to a 106 intake centerline but the lobe separation angle is ground into the cam. In other words, You can move the cam, but you can't move the lobes on the cam. No need to re-tune after a drive, just initially to get it right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 64PRONOVA View Post
Solid flat-tappet lifters are definitely "streetable" but they are higher maintenance than hydraulics. You will have to remove your valve covers and do the valve lash adjustment ritual occasionally. How often depends on how radical you go and whether you use quality valvetrain components like roller rockers.

Solid lifters were all I ran for years. My 70 Chevelle SS 396 came stock from the factory with them plus I ran a bunch of different solid cams on the street in my Novas. They're "old school". With stamped steel rockers adjustment becomes a frequent necessity.

Hydraulic cams and lifters have come a long way since the 60s and 70s though. I probably wouldn't run a solid flat-tappet on the street now days. There's not as much of a performance advantage now days and I definitely wouldn't run over .600 lift with a solid flat-tappet in a small block on the street. The most wear occurs during start-up and the higher the lift and spring pressure, the higher the wear.

I now run solid roller cams in all my performance engines. No flat-tappet can hold a candle against a solid roller cam for either performance or reliability.
I beg to differ there. There's a TON of solid rollers out there with lazier (or slower ramps) than some of the newer designed asymmetrical solid flat tappet cams Harold's been designing as of late. And as for the reliability...As long as the proper oil is used for the solid flat tappet, they'll last forever!!! You'll NEVER say that about a solid roller!! And when the rollers give out in the roller lifter the trash usually takes out the rest of the motor as well unless you're lucky enough to catch it soon enough..

Just FYI, all of your Honda V-Tec's are solid flat tappet (follower) cams!! They've been around for a while and have clocked how many miles??
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Old 18th-November-2008, 12:03 PM   #15
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Didn't know the Honda deal I guess there's more flat tapets out there than I thought. And yes he did degree it in, I should have worded that differently. Actual lobe sep was around 110 I think. I'm going to give him a call sometime today I find out just what size cam it was. They may not even make his cam any more? Nobodies commintted on the head choices yet.
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