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Lowering blocks on a 66-67

11K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  teddisnoke 
#1 ·
Has anyone installed lowering blocks on a 66 or 67? I would like to install 1" lowering blocks on my '67. It currently has the stock single leafs in the rear with 2" drop spindles up front. Tire clearance should not be a problem. Let me know if there is anything I should look out for or let me know if there are any "gotchas" when installing them. If you've installed blocks and have pics, post them. Thanks in advance, Jim
 
#2 ·
It should be incredibly easy. I just installed a 1/4" spacer above my leaf springs, because I removed the leaf spring pads and needed to fill the void left behind. The installation of this spacer should be exactly the same as your lower block.

Here's a pic of what I did. Just imagine that little black spacer bewteen the spring and the upper spring perch being 1 3/4" taller, and it'd be your lowering block. :)



You'll need to switch to u-bolts, if you haven't already, That's going to be the only "tricky" part and that's easy. Using u-bolts will require that you move the rear brake line that runs along the top of the axle tube out a bit, so that the ubolt can slip under it. You don't wanna squish that brake line. :eek:

I just bought ubolts from NAPA, part# 650-4022. 7/16" x 3" x 6.75" long. They were $6 each, but worked well. They should be a perfect length for what you want to do. They were a tiny bit long for my setup, but they worked OK anyway.

Best of luck,

Brent
 
#3 ·
So you have no rubber pads on your rear end huh.. Does it ride any different? One thing that is kinda bothering me is that when using a lowering block with the rubber spring pads it is impossible to properly torque down the U bolts. Inthe stock setup the lower spring plate hits the spring mount on the rear end and therefore is metal to metal and you can tighten it down good. But with a block in there it never becomes metal to metal and thereofre cannot be totally tight. So I guess the solution si to either just make them tight as possible and go with that or remove the rubber pads and torque it down real good. I just wonder how much those rubber pads help with noise and ride quality.

One thing you'll ahve to do also is grind a little off of the locating pin on the block. You could either grind it totally off or just make it shorter. The way I did it is I made a hole in the upper rubber spring pad and made the pin on the block just long enough to stick in that hole so it will kinda keep it form moving around yet it won't hit the upper spring mount once tightened down. Also I found ti easiest to asseble the block and everything in there if you take the shock loose at the bottom first, otherwise the shock presses down and will work against you and wont let things line up as well.

Hopefully I'm making sense.

-Aaron
 
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