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Got mine running today

4K views 25 replies 16 participants last post by  jimr38 
#1 ·
Well I was able to get this thing running today, I didn't have the thing wired completely because my fuse block from current performance was on back order, supposed to be here Wednesday but I have shoulder surgery on Thursday so I won't be working on the car for 6 weeks or so, I just had to hear it run. How satisfying is that , all those wires and the thing fires up in 3 seconds for the first time, looks like I got them right the first time. Well at least she fired right up, it was running a high idle for some reason , not sure I guess I'll find out after my surgery, can the idle be adjusted from the IAC? I think that's the idle solenoid on the throttle body, or is the comp all that can adj the idle? I didn't have my brake switch or a/c request hooked up yet, could the brake switch not hooked up yet make it idle high? Any thoughts you guys might have would be appreciated ? Other than that it seemed to run great. It was uncorked and no driveshaft ( I did have a tail shaft plug in the trans to keep the fluid in ). I didn't run it very long I just had to see if it would start up, this week I have a lot of medical stuff so I don't think I can work on it at all before Thursdays surgery,


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#2 ·
Congrats. Must be a great feeling. I hadn't checked your motor mount prob but I guess you got that squared away also. Good luck on the surgery. I've had a couple shoulder surgery's (both rotator cuff). Really amazing how quick getting rotation back is; not strength, but rotation. A machine was sent home so I could start therapy the next morning! They don't waste any time.
 
#6 ·
Yeah I got the motor mount problem fixed. I got the autokraft pan and used the tall and narrow motor mounts, now I have plenty of Clearance under the pan. Yeah I have a full tear or the rotator cuff , and a few other things wrong in there, this all goes back to my work accident I had back in September. Been off for 5 months now, sounds like ill be off for a few more... Uggg


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#8 ·
Jim, exactly how high was the idle RPM wise? The engines will usually high idle for about 20 -30 seconds. Part of that time is when it starts in open loop, polls the sensors, goes to closed loop, and then settles into an idle. As the temperature increases, the idle will settle out.

There is really no adjustment screw to speak of like a carb, it's all done through the PCM.....get it all hooked up and let it run for a bit, it will probably settle out. One of the main culprits of high idle on these engines is a vacuum leak at the intake.....

T,
 
#15 · (Edited)
Are you running DBW or DBC?

If it's DBW did your motor respond to depressing the pedal? If you connect a reader I would bet that it's throwing a code saying that the connection with the TAC module has been lost.

On mine I forgot to hook up the IGN hot to the pedal and the motor idled at 1600 RPM. Connected the hot and it worked correctly.

Congrats on getting her fired up. It's a great feeling!!
 
#19 ·
The driveline company worked up my driveshaft in one day , I was blown away ( coast driveline in Ventura ) so I was able to get it in and almost all of the exhaust. Just one day left to do any work before surgery on Thursday. Getting close. Finish the exhaust tomorrow. And I think that's all I can do. Still waiting on fuse panel and sending unit adapters and still have to design cold air intake system. I ordered today the shift indicater controller for the Dakota digital gauge cluster today. I think that's about it everything else is dun. This is going to drive me nuts not being able to finish this. Ugg


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#21 ·
I received my current performance relay and fuse box kit on Wednesday and was able to just throw the wiring on real quick I wired everything, all power ,tack,mil light, OBD2 diag port , started her up and since I was able to throw the exhaust on her, I let her run and she ran perfect nice and smooth and idles just fine. Although I'm sure to miss the lumpy way the old cam used to be. But at least ill be able to drive this one to work once in a while ( every stinking *** Friday) 35 miles one way, now I only have to get back to work, the only problem I have is the belt doesn't stay all the way on the Ac unit, I used the metal water pump gaskets instead of the paper ones that came with the dirty dingo brackets, so I think that I need to cut down the spacers to make up for the extra thickness of the gaskets, ( the Ac bracket bolts to the water pump) and I have the DD water pump spacers too so I have 2 gaskets on each side. The other problem I have is my new power steering pump is really loud and doesn't work very well I did all the bleeding that came in the instructions but the fluid seems to foam and when I remove the cap it wants to spit out, seems to have a lot of pressure , I'm going to try to remove the return line and hold it in a bucket and see if that will remove any air still in the system . Anyways I had my surgery yesterday and its 234am and I cannot sleep cause of the pain , so here I sit on sns. I have 6 weeks of not using my arm? Uggg


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#23 ·
the current performance fuse block is a nice setup. i have one on a 55 chevy, well laid out. Post up some pics on location you installed it. I'm sure others will be envious.

jason
its not installed yet just sitting on the fender right now, i just wired it up real quick so i could hear it run before my shoulder surgery. for that ill need both hands, for right now im the one armed mechanic... tonight i had my girl friend under the dash hooking up my new lokar throttle cable. i just couldn't reach under the dash that far left handed... she did a great job, shes been a huge help to me since my accident... :yes:
 
#26 ·
No real major modifications really , but the list of stuff needed just seems to keep going and going. Every time you turn around you need this or that. Seems like ya get seventy five dollared to death, the big thing I did learn tho is get the best oil pan you can find and the same with the headers I tried to do it for less and with the case of my headers the LH side wouldn't clear the steering box I thought it just needed a little dimpling to clear , well once you mash the tube a little they are yours to keep and when I was done with the "little mashing job". I had one tube that is about 45% restricted ! So now I need to spend the big bucks and throw this set in the trash, so DON'T SKIMP ON THE HEADERS! Don't be a dope , like I was,,, just make sure EVERYTHING you buy will work together BEFORE you buy it or you will do as I do, and lose your *** when you have to resell the stuff, the wiring is really the hard part of this when I started the wires I was really intimidated , and I work on wiring for a living, the way to do it at least for me is split all the wires apart and deal with each sensor one at a time. Once I separated everything it takes the confusion out of it, there is a sticky from tom on here that will help you a ton, I think a lot of us on here owe him a dinner and a beer all his knowledge about this subject is great to be able to access that, and for free , a lot of people on the web charge for that kind of advise.


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