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Average cost of a full restore

64K views 33 replies 30 participants last post by  CdnL79 Registry 
#1 ·
I like to get a general idea of what everyone here (who has fully restored a car from beginning to end) has spent on their cars. I'm just weighting the cost between buying one that is already restored to one that needs it. Please include a quick break down of what you spent and how much, to get your car to completion. (parts, body work, paint job, drive train work, etc) Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I have around 25-30k in my 72 and it was completed about 6 years ago. i have about the same amount in my 69 and it is not finished yet. My 69 still needs paint. Depending on how far you want to go and who does the work it can cost up to 40-50k or more.
 
#3 ·
Avg. cost of full restore

I've always believed that unless you LOVE doing the work, it's ALWAYS less expensive to buy a completed car than to try and do it yourself start to finish and come out ahead.......just doesn't happen. Plus the lost time you could be driving your car instead of working on it............:yes:
 
#6 ·
Buy it done or close to it. And another point worth remembering. No matter how much $ you put in to it you will not get the $ out of it if you sell it down the road.Sorry just won't happen as much as we all think our cars are perfect and worth every penny the other guy is just like us when we are looking to buy we want a bargain or we keep looking.
Just my .02
 
#16 ·
This is the classic answer to the classic question! However, I went about it a bit differently: I bought a car that was a basket case, but was complete, #'s matching, with paperwork, and was rare. I did all of the work myself, including engine, paint, welding, etc... I farmed out the rebuilding of the starter, alt, brake booster, water pump, rad recore, and seat covers (they had to be made from the correct material). When I bought the car I figured I'd be upside down when I was done, but I didn't car - I wanted this car, in this condition (affordable - barely), and I wanted the experience of doing it myself and then driving/racing/cruising in my own car.

If it cost more than a dollar, I tracked it. Here is what I spent:

  • Body Costs $6,449.29 (of this amount $1,593.79 was just for paint/paint supplies!)
  • Chassis/Frame Costs $2,587.25
  • Interior Costs$1,807.83
  • Engine Costs $6,204.97
  • Transmission Costs $522.96
  • Rear Costs $327.99
    • Total Costs $17,900.29

This does not include the price I paid for the basket case, but I got a fair deal on it in '96 value terms. So, per the above quote - it is not always a definite case of 'no matter how much you put into it, you will not get it back out'. I'm sure I can recover my purchase $ and my investment $'s! :yes:
 
#7 ·
My opinion is that you can buy one cheaper than you can build one.

However, take a little from both sides of the question (buy or build).

Buy the car of your choice that has a good body and is drivable.

It may need lots of improvements, but you can drive it as you fix it up.
 
#9 ·
The thing about buying a car that's already done is that you have to trust someone else's workmanship. I bought a car that was driveable, came with a tonne of receipts/all work documented, but things started to crap out fairly quickly and I found myself having to fix things that I thought were good for a while.

I'm not saying that's always the case, just another perspective on things... when you do stuff yourself or have it done by someone with a great reputation that you trust, that's when you really know what's going on with your car, IMO...

The cost also depends on whether you can/want to do a lot of the work yourself.
 
#11 ·
here's my opinion on the subject... say you walk into a showroom and buy that nice car with all the options on it you want, say a new Camaro, Challenger or Mustang... what is that, 30-35-45K? now add the finance charges over, what, 5 years? how much will you end up paying for the car in the end?

now take that car you bought for 2K-5K and save and buy and save and buy and work on the car over a 5 to even 7 year time frame and what will you have invested? the same 25-35-45K? yeah, very possibly so if you take it to a level that takes the 35-45K investment... you see a lot of really bitchen cars for the 20-25K range and the biggest thing of what i'm trying to say is that 20-25K car is actually worth MORE than your investment in a lot of cases and it's APPRECIATING... not DEPRECIATING like that new car did the absolute second you signed your name.

you buy a new car for 35K and the instant you bought it it's not worth the money you've paid for it.

i think it better to own a Classic, HotRod or Muscle car that'll hold the value than a cookie-cutter car that anyone/everyone can buy :yes: :yes: :yes:

another good thing is when you've finished the car no lien holder, it's YOURS :yes:
 
#12 ·
This is a classic question and I can tell allready that by the time all the answers come in you will be no farther ahead than when you first asked it!!:rolleyes:
Every answer I read so far is a good one.
I agree that you can probably buy a finished or almost done car for less than $0.50 on the dollar of what was invested.
There is more satisfaction doing / building a car yourself.
Frustration levels could be the same if, as someone else said "stuff starts going wrong with your purchase" Building a car --everyone knows is a frustrating deal.

But it boils down to what I read in a magizine a while ago.

There are people in this world that drive'm and people in this world that build'em. It takes both to make the HotRod world go round.
 
#13 ·
I think it also depends on how you want it rebuilt. Are you looking for a stock rebuild? Pro-touring? Mild build? It's all going to change your cost. I'm doing a pro-touring build with all high end parts and by the time I'm done, I will likely be at 40k for parts alone. And I'm doing all the work myself. No way I'd get that when I try to sell it. For me it's a hobby and it allows me to escape reality when I go into the shop, that's why I'm doing mine. If I had the money and a stress free life.....I'd buy one that was already done.
 
#14 ·
30,000+ for a nice mostly stock rebuild if you do most of it yourself. Very easy to overbuild and spend a lot to make it special. Then you end up with a car that it to nice to drive and have fun with. Lots cheaper to but one already done but be careful what you buy, I have seen cars at car shows that look great to most people but I would be afraid to drive them.
 
#17 ·
Carolina Kustoms in Portland Or quoted an average muscle car build is 30-35K in there shop. This includes motor and tranny rebuild with upgrades to your brakes and suspension. I have to admit this will not mean you can replace your subframe or put 14" disc brakes on but it would be a potent street car.
I have always been told it is cheaper to buy it built, but then you have someone elses dream car in your garage.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Im at 26K including the 5K for the car. This does not include parts I put on and upgraded later. I still need body, Paint, Interior, and a stereo.

motor 470Hp, paddle shift four speed, 12 bolt rear with posi, big wheels, subframe and front suspension replaced, and 13/12" disc brakes

As per the previous members post, my invested cash will be way above the retained value of the car. But it will be one of a kind.
 
#19 ·
I am just finishing up on a 69. In 95 I purchased a complete Arizona rust free car for $2300.00 and it cost me $500.00 to go out and trailer it back. (Even though its a rust free car there is still some rust to deal with, you just have to find it.)
I did a nuts and bolts restoration doing absolutely everthing that I could do to it myself. I had the machine shop take care of the engine components but rebuilt the motor myself. I did the media blasting, any welding needed, body work and painting, and reassembly. The cost of the paint and supplies which I got at cost was $1000.00. I cleaned or restored all the original pieces such as trim, emblems, etc. I even cleaned blasted and used 80% of the clips,fasteners and bolts. Also did the interior work, seat were fine to clean and reuse. needed door panels. In addition to this I apent time locating the best price for an item I needed, purchase several items at a time to cut combine shipping. I have a little under $15000.00 including the purchase price of the car. This price does not include the price of a pressure blaster. Mig welder, specialty tools. and the cost to have a place to work in year round. All that said and done I would not trade the experience for anything and have started on the next car.
 
#23 ·
4 days ago I bought a 63 Nova 400 (chevy2) from a buddy of mine who basically lost interest and moved on for 14,000. He traded for it 7 years ago for another project He had lost interest in. The previous owner put probably 15 to 20,0000 in it and I know my buddy put another 10,000 or so in to it. I actually got to be "That guy" that got that once in a lifetime deal so if you get to find one of those builder guys that foesnt seem to care as much abpit what he gets out of it your much better off biying one already done.
 
#25 ·
I personally like building cars myself, but as has been said, it is always cheaper to buy one done. That said, if I was going to buy a car that was done, it would be built by someone who is better at it than me. Otherwise I might as well do it myself. The last thing I would want is to buy a car I thought was done, but it was not done right. I've it seen many folks buy a super nice car and find out it was previously rusted and poorly repaired. I'd want something that is well documented with pictures showing the complete restoration, or better yet, something with the original paint that has been maintained properly since new.
 
#26 ·
bought car, very solid body, completely stock body and drivetrain, missing some trim, interior a bit gutted ,194 not running.....starting cost $4000
CPP mini sub frame $1000
manual rack & pinion $1000
tilt steering column $1000
dakota digital guages $1000
mild rebuilt 250, 10:1, dual headers, dual webbers, head work, cam $6000
rebuilt 10 bolt with posi and new gears $1000 (not done yet)
TKX full auto to manual kit $5800 (not done yet)
4 wheel disks ($1000) not done yet
new front fenders $400
new grill $250
frame connectors $250
carpet, weather-strip and seals $1000
buckets seats $600
paint and body work, doing everything myself
tires and wheels $1000

I'll have between $23,000 and $27,000, into it when done
everything done as I wanted it and I'll know every detail of this car


prices above are ballpark figures
 
#27 ·
I have restored a dozen cars in the last 45 years. It depends greatly on your ambition and skill level. You can learn the skills needed but finding the ambition can sometimes be harder to do. I have never lost money on a car I restored to stock condition. I have lost money on cars I hot rodded. I have only done one car restored body off the frame nuts and bolts complete. It took me 5 years and I did all the work my self except the body work and paint. I still made over $20,000 profit when I sold it. Most of the cars I restored I did to a level of a very nice driver quality. I have made a very good profit on all the cars I restored to this level. I have found the number one thing to do is to pick the right car. You might have to pay a little more for it at the start but you will make up the cost of restoration ( if you do most of the work yourself) when you sell a popular collectable car. Pick a popular year, 2 door or a convertible is a must. Stay away from 4 doors and 4 door wagons as sinking tons of money in to these body styles will most likely not be profitable. I have nothing against 4 door and 4 door wagons as I have several myself but buy them for the love of the hobby. Value of 4 doors and 4 door wagons of popular years and brands like 50's and 60's Chevys is increasing but only because 2 doors and convertibles are becoming very hard to find for a reasonable price. So my opinion is you can make money restoring old cars provided you do most of the work yourself, Shop smartly for parts, Restore to stock condition, and don't over restore. Avoid reproduction trim parts and foreign produced sheet metal as they do not fit properly. Restored cars that represent original survivors or nice original drivers as closely as possible will bring the most profit.
 
#28 ·
Question: My sweet wife bought her 1st car, 77 Nova silver Supersport off showroom floor. The money came from her work as a snack bar girl. It's been "barned" for 30 yrs. She turns 70 next yr. I'm not a restorer. Do I have it restored and surprise her with it or go out and buy one done and surprise.
Con: a bent piston rod in early 80s caused an engine change to a 350.
Pro: I believe I can find the original engine???
Dave's delima
P.S Remember. SHHHHHH it's a surprise!
 
#29 ·
First thing is to find out what you really have, because the last year there was an SS option in a Nova was 1976. After that, there was a Rally option, but no SS.
As any 4th generation Nova owner will tell you, restoring a 75 - 79 can be a years long project. The reproduction parts market for these cars is very small compared
to earlier years and most wrecking yards have been pretty well picked clean of any useable pieces. When you do find decent parts, they can be expensive, sending a
finished project well beyond what it's worth. Unfortunately, even restored 4th generation Novas lag well behind earlier years in value and market demand. Depending
on how much restoration this car will need, you might choose the option of searching for one that's finished.

Bob
 
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