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Finally! Starting on my 64SS!

57K views 276 replies 68 participants last post by  64SSOwner 
#1 ·
Just wanted to share pictures of my Nova, had this car over 10 years and am finally able to do it the way I have always wanted!

Got the TCI front clip last weekend from Fed Ex, and am probably going to get the 4-link for the rear too! Ideally with a 9" posi unit. Really want those 8" wides in the back! I'm going to keep the non-factory 327 and T-10, add a vintage air kit to ward off the desert heat. I'm thinking gunmetal grey Americans to quasi-match my Chevelle.

I included a pic of the badge, I was able to decode that it is a real SS, but couldn't figure out the ACC line. I'm pretty sure it's a factory 4 speed. I followed the link in other posts, but did not see a "G" option... Interesting...

It's currently factory Goldwood yellow, but I plan on installing new door skins and quarters, and going with Tuxedo black! Kind of a resto mod theme! The pictures don't show it, but the car is full of mud in the doors quarters... Definitely want to get rid of the nasty vinyl top!

The previous owner raced the car alot, notice the fenderwell headers!

Anyways, enjoy!









 
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#212 ·
First of all, thank you all for the compliments, I really appreciate the support!

I did get the quarter reveal moldings installed by using a dremmel to shave some of the thickness down. Once they're installed you can't see the anti rattle strip. I also used rivets in them for peace mind.






I got my side mirrors installed. They are OER brand. Like everything else that is aftermarket, the fit isn't that great. The quality of the part is good, and the chrome is great, it's just that you have to mess with them to get it to fit. In this case, I positioned them so they didn't hit the reveal molding. This puts them into the curve of the door a little bit. Because of this, the little tab on the bracket that catches on the mirror isn't long enough to engage. I fixed the problem by welding extra material onto the bracket, then grinding it into shape. Adds a lot of extra time to something that should take a minute to install!






I also got my Trim Parts door handles installed along with the door locks. These were another headache. The problem was that the holes in the door didn't quite line up with the door handle. I don't know if the problem is with the handles or door skin, but I would think its probably the door skin. If I could do it again I would fit EVERYTHING while in primer. I got them in by carefully filing the holes. This sounds simple, but my car is painted, complicating the procedure. Filing a hole like this, the paint can flake very easily. I ended up using a razor knife to cut the paint in the hole first, then filed in one direction from paint to metal. Pushing the paint instead of pulling, if that makes sense. After about 4 hours of sweating, I got them on there! The handles fit flat against the door and the quality of chrome is superb. They also feel nice and solid after installation.



I also started on my engine and front light wiring. I'm really slow at this! I decided I should pretty much run all the wires to see where everything ends up before cutting or wrapping them. I ended up running the wires under the inner fenders and core support lip, then holding them with a cable clamp. That way the only thing visible is a small button head on the engine side. After I get them all laid out where I want them, I'll cut them to length, then wrap them in braided wire wrap, then finish the end with heat shrink.












I used wire grommets where the wires pass through the inner fenders and core support. Not an ideal situation running wiring in the wheel well, but this isn't going to be a DD.

Next on the list is more wiring, battery relocation to the trunk, and mounting my fuel tank.

Gary
 
#216 ·
I've never built a car like this before. It has definitely been a learning experience lol! I always wondered why people would put a whole car together and drive it around in primer. Now I now why. If I could do it again I would probably go the same route! :doh:
 
#221 ·
WOW - ive seen some threads with pics and rebuild process well explained to the T ... yet yours, yours is well composed & to the point - concise!!! if i do anything further to my 64 SS i only hope i follow in your footsteps (although i wouldn't be spending time w/pops making a mustang 2 front - id probably have go to the market for that one!) needless to say, i can't wait to see progress and in person one day'

thank you - dlcracing out
 
#223 ·
Thank you, I'm glad that it's helped you out! I can't wait to get the car done and meet some others as well.

Great attention to detail!! that is a sweeeeet 64SS it takes some serious
patience to do things right!! in the end it is all worth it!! NICE JOB!!

Charlie p.
Thank you for the compliments Charlie, I really appreciate it! It's been hard at times to keep my patience for sure.

So I just got my OER fuel tank hardware kit and anti-squeak kit, so I decided to mount my tank to get it out of the way. I got my tank painted up and a new sender installed so time to mount it. Should be easy enough, right? Wrong! The OER anti-squeak rubber is made with a recess meant to fit over the tank straps, putting a lip on both sides of one side. The problem is that the rubber measures 1" across the groove (between the lips) and the straps measure 1 1/8". There is no way to get the strap to seat in the groove like it's supposed to. :doh:

I ended up cutting the lip off the rubber, turning it upside down and glueing them to the straps. Hopefully the glue will keep the straps from shifting around... On the plus side, the OER fuel tank hardware kit fit perfectly so it bolted right up.




You would think its a new tank except for all the dents in it!
 
#224 ·
My Christmas present from my wife finally arrived today! She ordered it on December 10th, took them a while to build it. It was worth the wait, the quality is very good and it took me about 5 minutes to bolt it in to see how it fit. I can't wait to try it out, I hope it keeps me cool!

I also got the wiring kit for it. Does anybody know how it gets integrated into the AAW classic update kit? The orange wire says it's the electric fan lead...





 
#225 ·
Here are some pictures of the progress. Was hoping to be done by now, by my 1 year old has been keeping me really busy!

I got my chrome alternator and compressor mounted on Alan Grove brackets that I powder coated.



I got an Edelbrock pump to carb fuel line kit and filter. I had to shorten the hose to make it look right. It was way too long. I watched a YouTube video on AN fittings. They are really simple and nice. I'm using the stock fuel line to the tank and modifying it from the firewall to the pump to fit the clip. I'll probably cut if off at the firewall and bend up a new piece from there to the pump.

I'm almost completely done with the front light and engine harness. The wires are all wrapped and hidden behind the inner fender panel and under the front core support. I still need to run the wires for the compressor and A/C switch that goes on the drier.

I got a steering linkage kit from Tim (Ibuildem), and it fit perfect with the Sanderson block huggers. I modified the zbar that came with my car to fit nice and snug. I used a return spring kit to keep the linkage attached to the fork and made another bracket to keep the pedal at the top of travel so the bearing doesn't rest on the pressure plate from pedal weight. I had to make a hole in the inner fender and a bracket to support the bar on the outside of the frame.




I made a template and added rubber sheeting to cover the holes that the a-arms come through in the inner fender panels. I did the same thing for the zbar bracket hole. I used black 6-32 cap screws to attach the rubber to the inner fenders. I bought a punch from McMaster Carr to put holes in the rubber. It worked great!

I got my new repop grill mounted up. I forgot how much of a pain it is. I still need to do a little work to get the hood pin to line up and get the headlight bezels where I want them.





I got most of the A/C lines run and cut to length. Just need to haul them to So-Cal speed shop to get crimped. I still have to figure out the evaporator lines to the bulkheads so I will wait and get them done all at once. I ended up buying loose barrier hose and fittings to create my own custom hoses.




I got the radiator harness mounted and installed. I bought the entropy harness and cut it all apart and modified it so I could hide the wires along with the rest of my harness. I mounted the fuses and relays underneath the radiator. They will also be behind the front bumper once I get that on.

My front buckets and rear seat are at the upholsterer getting the seat covers installed. I also gave him the brand new seat medallions I got from chevy 2 only. I'm excited to see them after he's done. He also said he would come to my house to install the carpet and head liner, which is nice because I don't feel comfortable doing it.

These pics are kind of random, but hopefully you get the idea!









 
#228 ·
It looks great either way, but have you ever considered modifying the stock aircleaner? A nice touch that I've seen done before is you cut the snorkel off or leave a short amount present and also cut the opposite side to match. It helps with airflow alittle, you can see the filter element peaking out and I think it looks cool. Just food for thought.
 
#229 ·
I think I saw somewhere on SNS that somebody had done that with a stock air cleaner. I also like the L79 cleaners too. I will probably keep mine the way it is since its already painted. Good thing about an sir cleaner is that they're relatively cheap and easy to interchange. I can see myself with have multiples for "options". :D

I got my trunk splatter painted and gauge cluster in the dash over the weekend. Also got my hood pin adjusted and bumpers mounted. Hmm, guess I forgot to snap a picture of the bumpers...




 
#230 ·
Just a quick update.

I'm basically down to some odds & ends with the car. I still need to finish up wiring a few things, run my brake lines, and get the battery hooked up. I will also need to get my drive shaft modified to be the correct length and have the u-joint changed to fit a Ford 9".

The biggest thing that still needs to be done is the interior. I got my seats back from the upholsterer and I have all the other major pieces, so hopefully it will go in without too many headaches.




Pics from fitting the radiator hoses:







Got my bumpers and turn signals installed:




Steering wheel is installed, I got it from Forever Sharp Steering Wheels:
 
#233 ·
That probably has something to do with it, ha! I have it more for a cure for the little "delays" I keep running into...

The latest one I fixed Saturday. I did not know that a chevy II oil pump shaft is 1/2" shorter that a standard small block shaft with a rear sump. I am using the same motor that was already in the car before i put a clip on the car. So i had to drop the pan to change the shaft. I tried to just lift the motor for access, but ended up having to drop the tranny. bell house and all. I'm just glad I checked my oil pressure and immediately shut down the motor on initial startup. All seems to be good now with plenty of oil pressure.

Then to make a weekend full of fun, it took me all day Sunday to get my rear brakes bled. I had to use a vacuum pump to get fluid in the line closest to master cylinder, then kept "adding more line until I got it out the bleeders in the rear. Sounds simple I guess, but I was chasing "leaking" fittings all day. Now that I'm done I think it was mainly due to an empty line. In just glad I spent the money on the silicone based brake fluid, otherwise I would have a real bad mess. I must have bench bled the master a 100 times.

Still chasing a few gremlins, but I have a running car with brakes, so I could drive it technically. I even have tags and insurance!

Gary
 
#236 ·
I took the Nova to the exhaust shop and snapped a couple of pics. This is the first time I've had it outside since it got painted. On the way there two people told me I had a beautiful car. That ways makes you feel good! :)




I took it to this particular shop because my dad knows the guy that does the exhaust work. He's really good! He won't finish until Monday, but I snapped a couple shots with it up on the lift.




Here is the driver's side. He made the new flange from scratch.


Can't wait to get it back, then it will be time for a front end alignment!
 
#237 ·
Hey Gary,

The car is looking great, you need to drive it by my house :D:yes:

Let me know how the muffler shop does, I have had some work done by them before and was planning to take mine there when I get to the point of needing exhaust work done.

I bet it sure feels good to have her this far...

Bob
 
#239 ·
I just read through this entire build for the 1st time. The attention to detail and your body work skills and determination really paid off with this ride. I also love the fact the front end was a father son built from scratch piece. I really like your red and black interior scheme...can't wait to see the real pics of it. Keep up the great work!
 
#240 ·
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the thread, I'm having fun keeping everyone posted on the progress too! I'm really fortunate to have such a wonderful father and enjoy working with him as much as I can. I've learned a lot from him and he's started to ask me questions about his Nova! :D

I can't wait to see the interior! I have one seat in it and snapped a couple pics of my daughter "driving" the other day. She figured out how to honk the horn and was all smiles and giggles!





Here are a couple pics of my dad's convertible. He shot the color on it about a month ago.


 
#241 ·
Exhaust pictures!










I definitely have some more bugs to work out too. I drive it back from the exhaust shop, which is about 5 miles.

The brake pedal needs to be adjusted. I think the brakes were slightly applied the whole way home.

The temp gauge was permanently stuck all the way past hot. I verified with my IR thermometer that the engine was 180 when I got home.

There is an exhaust leak. I'll get some FEL-pro header gaskets, apparently the Sanderson headers will require a gasket despite their claims.

There is a slight oil leak. In pretty sure it's a valve cover gasket. I decided to use rubber gaskets until I got the valve lash set. Time to switch to cork now that I have that worked out.

But I drive it home!!!! :D :D :D :D


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#243 ·
He did a really good job, and im happy with it foe the most part. I wanted to put the exhaust in the stock location (over the axle), but the TCI 4-link doesn't really allow it. There is a sway bar and panhard bar (I think that's what it's called) in the way. I'm guilty of not really thinking about the exhaust until after the fact too....

 
#246 ·
Hey Bob! My loop crossmember did have the cutouts in it. It puts the exhaust over the crossmember. You can sort of see it in the shot that shows the view from the pan towards the back. I'll try and get a better shot later. He also put the hangars on the same crossmember right next to the cutouts.
 
#245 ·
Oh wow...I see now...even if you thought of it before, doesn't look like you could do much about it. My only concern with turn downs under the car is the amount of dust it kicks up, and with yours being black it'll probably be even more evident. I had the same issue with my camaro and my blazer. With the blazer, instead of turning them down before the axel, I turned them out towards the wheels. It totally fixed the dust issue at least in my case...
 
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