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sparks from alternator and white smoke from starter :(

9K views 54 replies 10 participants last post by  PCPete 
#1 ·
so, i was hooking up the wiring under the hood… with plans to start my car for the first time with the new engine when i hit trouble.

double checking the wiring (after connecting my battery) i noticed the nut on the post on back of the alternator was a little loose.

i slid a small wrench behind it and tightened it, and the second i did i got a ton of sparks from that post and then a puff of white smoke from (i think) my dang brand new performance mini starter.

what happened?!

i could have sworn my wiring was correct, and i've got fresh batt cables and fresh clean grounds.

im pissed and confused!
 
#34 ·
ok, so when i turn the key over while testing the SOLID purple (not purple/white strip) at the safety switch i get 11.9-12 volts… the purple/white wire gets no voltage when i turn the key.


does that mean its the safety switch? its brand new, and worked prior to the engine swap.
 
#36 ·
Good glad to here some improvement. Now you can try jumping the starter to double check. If you have a long flat head screw driver jump it across the 12 volt wire post on your starter to the S terminal quickly on your solenoid carefully holding on to the screw driver handle to avoid getting shocked and see if it turns over. If you get nothing tap on the solenoid a few times just in case it is stuck and try again by key or jumping the starter quickly. Solenoid could be stuck or bad. Easy fix though if it needs to be replaced. You now have voltage which is good. Very well could be just a bad or stuck solenoid now. Also maybe put your battery on a charge and try starting just to make sure all is good there. If you get nothing after jumping the starter and charging your battery on the start I suggest just replacing the solenoid. Sounds to me your about to fire up - keep us all informed
 
#37 ·
Same idea but this video features an external starter solenoid. Key on and just jump the starter either using a screw driver or jumper wire. Primitive but efficient. Make sure all your body parts are clear from any moving parts. If still nothing you are going to have to pull the starter to replace the solenoid anyhow so just have your starter checked also at the local parts store.

 
#38 · (Edited)
i've now had my starter tested twice by autozone!

so my starter solenoid is ok… which is great, since my JEGs mini starter is brand new and all. but, now i have no idea what the problem could be.

i know its a pain but can you guys list off where i need power for my starter to engage. also… could battery size be an issue? im wondering if the battery i got for the project is underpowered.
 
#39 ·
You need 12 volts to your starter general which runs of your battery cable to starter. Then you need 12 volts from your ignition switch "purple wire to S terminal on your solenoid to engage the Bendix to engage your starter gear on the fly wheel when your key is turned to start. Try jumping your battery and starting your engine and see if it turns over. Don't have to start it just see if it turns over. If it does you will know your battery is low or not pushing enough cranking amps to turn your starter over. Then if it does turn over with jump consider getting a higher cranking battery. Do you have a quick jump start charger or a set of jumper cables and another vehicle to try jumping it?
 
#43 · (Edited)
i'll add to this the next time i have a chance to get to my garage but so far,

*power to the distributor
*power to and from the safety switch
*power going to the S terminal
*starter/solenoid/alternator/battery all test OK
*brand new braided ground cables, frame and firewall

*connections at starter motor are,
-purple wire from ignition to S terminal
-red thicker gauge wire from output on alternator connects to large stud with positive battery cable
-positive battery cable to large stud

the thick red wire from the output stud on the alt DID burn out at the original fusible link, and i replaced it with a smaller gauge fusible link wire from autozone…that happened before i tried to start the car though.

battery has 80% charge with 650 cca and about 800ca
 
#46 ·
i'll add to this the next time i have a chance to get to my garage but so far,

*power to and from the safety switch
*power going to the S terminal

*connections at starter motor are,
-purple wire from ignition to S terminal
So far you said you have a multi meter. Multi meters are a great tool to have but I always start any basic electrical diagnostic with a simple unpowered (ice pick style) test light. Did you test for power at the starter on the purple wire or just test it at the output side of the Neutral Safety Switch? You can clip the alligator on the “S” terminal of the starter, run the tester wire up above the engine and wedge the ice pick into a body seam so it has a ground. Then sit in the car and peer between the dash and the hood as you try and start the engine. If the test light lights up power is going to the “S” terminal.

I have an original factory service manual for a 73 and I will look at the schematics but I think those cars may have had another starter interrupt for the seats or seat belts. Not sure, I will look into it.

Either way, I think it is time for a bench test of that starter. It would appear that you have everything connected properly and have power at all the proper test points. You can use a simple battery charger or have it tested at an auto parts store.
 
#44 ·
I have a small duralast battery with numbers just like that. I think it is better to have more cca but its worked and for quite a while without fail so I think your good there. are you sure the 12v converter and horn relay are wired correctly with a good ground to the radiator support? I just went through all that.
 
#49 ·
Try this

You have power going to the neutral safety switch, so lets try the wires between there and the solenoid. Get some primary wire and run it directly from the nss to the solenoid. This may be a bit of a pita, but is a sure way to check that section of the circuit. If it works, and all it takes is that click from the solenoid, then you can track that section of the circuit. Keep after it, you'll get there.
 
#50 ·
Seems fairly simple to me. You know your solenoid and starter are good - both have been tested twice. You have voltage running through your ignition to S terminal now since the NSS has been resolved. I cannot stress this enough either jump the starter = if you get nothing not enough cranking amps or throw a jump start charger on your battery or get a jump from another vehicle - buy a higher cranking amp battery - something to see if you can get the starter to turn over. I think you don't have enough juice to turn it over. Keep waiting for good news - excited to see if your up and running every morning.:confused::turn:
 
#53 ·
so apparently ALL of this trouble is being caused by the wiring harness block at the firewall. the bolt in the middle of it that tightens down both halves does not seem to be catching anything… causing poor connections.

does anyone have a fix for this?

i got the car to turn over a few times but havent had a day off yet to break in the engine.
 
#55 ·
Odd

That bolt goes in a long way and it seems like forever to tighten it up especially with the stuff in the way. On mine it's also a captured bolt meaning it won't fall out. Before you try replacing the bolt, try having a buddy hold/push the fuse block side against your engine side efforts. It may be that the bolt isn't catching or things aren't quite lining up. It's a pita connection with the engine out and the hood off, never mind in an assembled car.
 
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