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About to rewire whole car

3K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  JRouche 
#1 ·
Hey team, I have read the stickies and a lot of the posts on this but I was wondering if anyone can give me any last minute tips/tricks on doing a complete rewire on a third gen.

Here is what I have:
Painless GM specific muscle car harness
Painless Gauge harness
Painless starter quick disconnect
Shrink tube
Grommets
Courtesy light kit
dimmer switch
0 gauge for ground and battery wire
box o terminals
box o split loom
Scott custom length plug wires

What I will be ordering Monday:
New pigtails for all lights
Dome light stuff
All new bulbs
Electric fan harness with auto fan on/off
MSD coil wire
NGK plugs

What it's connecting:
70 Nova
383 stroker(mechanical fuel pump)
MSD 6AL
MSD pro billet HEI
MSD starter
Powermaster Alternator
Kinetic battery
Single electric fan
Auto Meter Ultralight II electric gauges(tach, speed, fuel, volts, oil level, water temp)
Ididit model specific tilt column
Tremec TKO600 from Keisler


Any tips/tricks/pictures you can share are greatly appreciated! In the future I will be adding a pretty good sized stereo as well as a Vintage Air unit.
 
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#3 ·
I think the idea of wiring can be intimidating, but the actual job is really not. It can get a bit tedious yet at the same time I enjoy it. My two cents would be not to get overwhelmed by the all the wires in the looms and just take it one wire at a time, before you know it you're a quarter of the way done, then half, then complete. Use a color coded wiring schematic and make sure your connections are soldered and solid - you should be golden!

Good luck and have fun - take some pics to post so you can show us how breezy it is. :D


GG
 
#5 ·
I used 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch slip loom. Need the variety.

I also ran a big (protected) line from the battery (in the trunk) to a "sub panel" (fuse block) on the inner fender well. And this sub panel powers the fan (flex-a-lite Black Magic), headlights and any other high power "appliances" for the engine compartment.

I like to have the headlights run straight from the battery and switched through a 15 amp (dime a dozen) relay. So the dash headlight switch only carries the small current for the low side of the headlight relay. The sub panel is fused for each circuit.

I also use the sub pannel idea for the interior. High powered stereo, windows or what ever.

I am a firm believer in using those common 15 amp relays to power items needing 10 or more amps..

And my Painless harness has the proper wire size and all. Just my way of over doing things. Not much extra cost for the piece of mind.

I could go on and on with the electrical LOL Have fun, looks like spaghetti till the looms wrap it all up then it looks sano!!! JR
 
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