Rewiring my '72 with a Painless Harness - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 1st-January-2017, 12:38 AM   #1
CVMA Dredd
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Rewiring my '72 with a Painless Harness

My first of many roadblocks; any idea how I can remove the ignition switch connector? It's wedged between the top of the steering column and the bottom of the mounting bracket.

I've got the entire harness disconnected except for this one connector.

I've got the lower supporting bracket removed but can't figure out how to lower the column to get enough separation to unplug this particular connector.
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Old 1st-January-2017, 03:38 AM   #2
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Follow the column down to the firewall, there is a plate with 3 bolts attaching it to the firewall. remove these bolts which should allow the column to drop down a couple of inches.
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Old 5th-January-2017, 02:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hackshacknova View Post
Follow the column down to the firewall, there is a plate with 3 bolts attaching it to the firewall. remove these bolts which should allow the column to drop down a couple of inches.
Perfect, thanks. Mine had a plastic shroud around the base that made those bolts inaccessible. I ended up breaking it off (it was quite fragile) and was easily able to undo everything. There were five bolts on the firewall and another two keeping a couple brackets around the column.

I've got the entire old harness out and have drawn out my own schematics of that harness to try and compare it with my new harness. I have the 21 circuit Painless harness (10101) which I've found is very streamlined, which is not necessarily a good thing. It doesn't have a bulkhead connector so I'm trying to teach myself where everything goes because the Painless instructions are less than ideal. A few pictures or drawings wouldn't kill them. And I'm coming from a position of just about zero experience with automotive wiring.

So, next question is where does this maxi relay go? I know it connects on the 10 ga. red wire between the fuse box and the starter solenoid, but should I just find an open spot on the firewall to mount it to?
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Old 10th-January-2017, 11:47 PM   #4
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Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
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Old 15th-January-2017, 02:01 AM   #5
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You can mount it wherever room permits. But the closer you can get it to the solenoid the better, that way you only have a small length of wire that is not fuse protected and the long length of wire to the fuse panel is protected. A lot of cars in the 80's and 90's used fusible links, which was a special short length of wire that would melt in half instead of a replaceable fuse. And the fusible links were usaually attached right to the solenoid.
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Old 15th-January-2017, 11:51 AM   #6
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I know this is a little late but American Auto Wire kits have excellent instructions and bulkhead connector that fits in the stock location.

I did one Painless, it was the computer wiring for an L29 fuel injected big block, not too bad had decent instructions. It was the only company that sold one for that engine. I have installed four AAW complete kits. A 57 Chevy, a 67 Nova, a 64 Barracuda (using a 1st gen Nova kit) and my Chevelle wagon.
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Old 26th-January-2017, 02:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip View Post
I know this is a little late but American Auto Wire kits have excellent instructions and bulkhead connector that fits in the stock location.

I did one Painless, it was the computer wiring for an L29 fuel injected big block, not too bad had decent instructions. It was the only company that sold one for that engine. I have installed four AAW complete kits. A 57 Chevy, a 67 Nova, a 64 Barracuda (using a 1st gen Nova kit) and my Chevelle wagon.
Yeah, I'll be using AAW next time. Painless kit is quality, but their instructions are absolute crap. They should be made for the lowest denominator (me).
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Old 26th-January-2017, 02:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qw9012 View Post
You can mount it wherever room permits. But the closer you can get it to the solenoid the better, that way you only have a small length of wire that is not fuse protected and the long length of wire to the fuse panel is protected. A lot of cars in the 80's and 90's used fusible links, which was a special short length of wire that would melt in half instead of a replaceable fuse. And the fusible links were usaually attached right to the solenoid.
Thanks.
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Old 26th-January-2017, 11:56 AM   #9
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Just read the instructions for your kit and they are worse than I remembered. Do not connect the jumper wire as shown in figure 7-2A. That will only work if there is minimal load on the electrical system. The wire from terminal 2 needs to go to a point in the system to sense the load and adjust the alternator output.

Looking at figure 7-2B not sure why circuit 915 is coming from the alternator. The alternator should not be used as a junction block IMO. I would install a junction block close to and fed by the maxi fuse. Then attach circuits 915, 916 and 960 to it.

You will want to mount the maxi fuse in an accessible place, maybe on the firewall somewhere.

When did you buy your kit? If on or after 12/19/16 you are eligible for a $100 rebate.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/janfeb100
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Last edited by Philip; 26th-January-2017 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 2nd-February-2017, 02:52 AM   #10
CVMA Dredd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip View Post
Just read the instructions for your kit and they are worse than I remembered. Do not connect the jumper wire as shown in figure 7-2A. That will only work if there is minimal load on the electrical system. The wire from terminal 2 needs to go to a point in the system to sense the load and adjust the alternator output.

Looking at figure 7-2B not sure why circuit 915 is coming from the alternator. The alternator should not be used as a junction block IMO. I would install a junction block close to and fed by the maxi fuse. Then attach circuits 915, 916 and 960 to it.

You will want to mount the maxi fuse in an accessible place, maybe on the firewall somewhere.

When did you buy your kit? If on or after 12/19/16 you are eligible for a $100 rebate.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/janfeb100
Thanks for the insight, Philip. I bought it in September, just now getting to the wiring. My simple transmission swap has snowballed into a new differential, new gearing, disc brake conversion, interior sound/heat proofing, suspension refurbish, fuel system refurbish, and of course, all new wiring.

I got so fed up with staring at this Painless harness and trying to sort it out that I went ahead and ordered the American Autowire Nova Harness. It showed up yesterday and it is awesome!!!! The instructions are excellent and it's already set up with the connectors and vehicle specific, so now I'm actually looking forward to the install rather than dreading it.

I saw that rebate was going on so what I'll do is hold onto my Painless kit until next month and sell it on eBay at a deep discount. It's the price I'll pay to learn I should've gone with AAW in the first place. Live and learn.

Thanks
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