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Wetsanding and buffing

7K views 58 replies 17 participants last post by  bigbadbp7 
#1 ·
I just had my nova painted and the painter told me to wait 30 days to wetsand and buff but I looked at the tech sheet from the paint/clear and it says to do it after 48 hrs what should I do?? It says more time will make it harder to cut could the painter be saying that because its cold outside?? the car feel dry to the touch and I took my nail to an area and couldnt dig into it. its basecoat clearcoat and was painted on thursday
it has quit a bit of orange peel should I start with 800 or 1000 grit? thxs
 
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#2 ·
It's black, you better get on it. Go with the tech sheet. I have painted about 15 cars and some of the clears I have should you can get on within 24 hrs. Black is the hardest to get the scratches out of. You see everything in it. Start with 800 until you get almost all the orange pill out then jump on 1000 if its that bad. If its fresh I think you could get away with 1500 next and then 2000.... You wait much longer you'll have to go a little finer. I use a color sanding DA that has a 3/32 orbit and you can get a 3000 grit you use with a little water and it really dose nice on black. Good luck and I would say get after it.


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#3 ·
when i wet sanded mine, my uncle (paint and body guy) told me to wait a week or 2 for the paint to harden so it would be harder for me to sand through the clear into the base since it was my first time wet sanding. i started with 800 grit and then went to 1000 then 1500. the buffing compound i got said it will take 1200 grit scratches and finer out so i didnt think it was worth going to 2000 or 3000. i used plenty of water when wet sanding and another thing i found out is the white milky looking stuff that comes off when wet sanding and when it dries its a tough SOB to get off the car, so wash it off the car when its still wet.

everyone told me i had to go to 2000 or 3000 for it to look good but 1500 looks DAM nice




 
#9 ·
Actually Jim, the first one, the dual action type is better for polishing and the one you posted is better for buffing.
The DA style doesn't work well for compound but is best for polish, ESPECIALLY BLACK!!!!.
The second one is for compound and will work for polish but is going to be difficult for a beginner with black.

drnova69, the "ideal" time to sand the clear depends on alot of variables with the brand and type of clear being the biggest one.
Based on what you posted, I would start sanding.
LOTS of water (if wet sanding). Be anal about dirt, keep the car, block, paper, everything completely clean.
A finishing DA for sanding is a little advanced, probably not worht the risk of the learning curve for one job. The finish DA is also fussier about optimum curing time than wet sanding is.
Post back after sanding if you need compounding help.
 
#16 ·
Hey, not trying to step on anyones toes but i wouldn't use 800 or even 1000 grit to sand out orange peel. I've been painting for 15 years or better and use those coarser grits for runs or sags, not just orange peel depending on how much clear was applied.unless ur in a hurry to knock the finish down i would suggest starting with 1200 wet then 1500. 3m step 1 will buff out 1200 or finer but the finer grit you progress to ie. 1500, 2000, 3000 the less buffing you will need to do and you will eliminate some of the deeper sand scratches you can get when using those coarser grits. Use step 1 fast cutting rubbing compound swith to step 2 swirl mark remover with the appropiate pad then step 3 polishing compound with that corosponding pad. Make sure you keep from mixing pads and wash them out after use to keep them clean. Like the other member noted, wipe off resedue before proceeding because it is difficult to remove when dry especially in little cracks n corners. And whatch out for the edges, it's very easy to rub through. If you follow the dirrection on the bottles you should have no problems ie buffer speed and pressure.
Just my oppinion
 
#17 ·
when I start to color sand is it ok to buff say the next day? maybe a week later?
I would like to start sanding but I dont own a buffer at this time and really not sure what I should buy also what compound should I use? I bought 800 1000 and 1500 paper should I get some 2000? thanks guys!!
 
#18 ·
Hey, the buffer you need would be a 7 inch with variable speed since you will start off at a slow speed while applying moderate pressure and as the compound dries you increase speed and reduce the pressure. I use a makitta myself with the vel cro -type backing disc to use foam type pads. Usually u can wet sand the following day after paint with no problem. I usually wait a few days to allow for shrinkage especially in cold shop conditions. When wet sanding use the flat type sponge backing pad and let the sand paper soak in soapy water to soften the paper. Allways use a backing pad, don't use just your hand and paper or you will get funny looking sanding marks. Start with 1200 grit. I have just used 1200 and then buffed with good results but it's better to progress to at least 1500. 1 full sheet of paper will do maybe 2 panels before loosing its bite so get a few extra sheets
 
#19 ·
I have a 1970 charger i had it Painted black with dupont
The painter gave it back to me so i could put stainless on along
With other items i bugged him for over week to cut and polish
Car he said it would be ok. . After he finally took my car its was
Every bit of a month when car came back it sucked...
I tryed to get some money back cause i took car to another shop
They blocked the whole car down and re cleared the black then
Blocked it again and shot it one more time with clear big big difference
 
#20 ·
man im looking at the big box home improvements store online and nobody stocks makita or dewalt buffer/polishers what happen to the days you could just go to a store and buy what you want? anybody know a store I can pick one of these up at? harbor freight stocks their stuff will their stuff work or stick to the big name brand?
 
#23 ·
Ya, home depot and lowes usually has them. But you can order one at "toolwarehouse.net" very good price and fast shipping. I would not buy the harbour freight buffer or most other power tools. They will fail at the worst moment wishing you had bought a quality tool. As far as a time line after paint to cut and buff, i agree its easier right right after paint but i would give the paint a chance to shrink. A few days. I have cut n buffed cars a year after they had been painted with no problem. Its all in attention to detail. If you take your time nd do it right it will look right. Noone will care about your ride as much as you will.
 
#24 ·
well saturday and sunday I wetsanded the pass side fender door and quarter panel I started with 800 and ended with 1500 and intend to finish with 2000 but today I went out to do the hood and when I sprayed it it froze onto it :eek: so im going to have to wait for a break in the weather to continue:(
 
#34 ·
I use the compound with a wool pad on the rotary buffer. Some use foam COMPOUND pad, foam is slower cutting but is is also safer for a beginner.

I then clean the car and use the orbital with a foam POLISH pad for the polish. As previously posted, the rotary will work for polish.

I clean again and hand polish with Race Glaze.

I use microfibers and a water/alchol mix in a spray bottle for all wiping.
I use three color of microfibers so I do not wipe polish off with a towel I used for compound.
 
#35 ·
Buffing

drnova69, not sure what tools you need to buff but since your in Chicago i would have no problem loaning you my Stuff i have a Milwaukee buffer same as a body shop uses i also have a Porter Cable orbital that i use for Finishing and removing any swirl marks its a great tool. I have any thing you need to buff your paint.

Your welcome to borrow any thing you need.

Steve
630-257-3609
 
#36 ·
drnova69, not sure what tools you need to buff but since your in Chicago i would have no problem loaning you my Stuff i have a Milwaukee buffer same as a body shop uses i also have a Porter Cable orbital that i use for Finishing and removing any swirl marks its a great tool. I have any thing you need to buff your paint.

Your welcome to borrow any thing you need.

Steve
630-257-3609

Thanks Steve
 
#39 ·
i would go until the shiny spots are gone. thats what i did. Im in the process of my first paint job. I have the body and trunk done. I sanded and first stage buffed the body. I went a little to far sanding on t he one quarter and went thru the clear. tried to sand a clear over but didnt pan out. I am now gonna have to blend the spot a went thru and re clear panel. Just be careful and dont be too anal. that was my problem. I saw some issues I thought i could get out and in reality no one else saw them but me. you see little think here and there that bother you since your right up against the panel when sanding.
 
#40 ·
yeah your right about only seeing them close up but anyway I did sand with 1500 again and then I did 2000 it looks real good :D only a few scarce shiney spots now I think im going to start buffing tomorrow

Also while I was sanding I noticed the painted didnt clear the lower part of my front fender right below the body line :rolleyes: can anybody recommend a spray can clear to hit that spot?
 
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