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T56 swap

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6023 swap t56
28K views 55 replies 12 participants last post by  RJDRJ06 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm kicking off my T56 swap this week.

I know that cutting is required to achieve the proper driveline angle, and I've seen pictures on here of people who have done it, but I can't find them.

Does anybody know who did the swap and documented the clearancing?

Also, on a side note, I'm going to be using Quicktime's 6023-PB bellhousing to keep my stock clutch linkage. Supposedly it keeps the trans closer to the engine which may help with clearance; if that's the case I'll share.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Damn. :D OK, then here goes:

Parts list:
Trans: D&D fully built LS1 T56
Shifter: Pro 5.0
Bellhousing: Quick Time 6023-PB (PB stands for pivot ball)
Crossmember: X-Factor XFGM-10301 Aluminum
Clutch: Centerforce Dual Friction DF148552
Speedometer: TBD
Driveshaft: Denny's 3.5" Aluminum
Bearing retainer/collar: CAGM-50003 (American Powertrain)
Scotch: Macallan 12 year

Wiring info, AAW part numbers for reverse lights and reverse lock out:

500952 T56 Backup Light Switch Pigtail Wires
500950 T56 Reverse Lockout Module Pigtail Wires
 
#7 ·
I hope this helps some. I have the magnum which I think is bigger than a stock T-56, not sure. I made my own crossmember and my angle is 3 degrees down. I'm also using the Quicktime 6023-PB. Here's some picture's of the floor before and after with transmission set at 3 degrees down. Here's a link to Team Chevelle that I posted last summer when I did a T-56 magnum install in my brothers Chevelle, might be some info in there that helps.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357712&highlight=








 
#8 ·


Collar from American Powertrain. My LS1 T56 only has two bolt holes. I do not know what the stud on there is for, and if I use it or not. There are two installation positions for it.



X Factor crossmember



Threaded plates for crossmember installation.


Hit my first snag tonight. The bellhousing cannot slide over the dowels as the pivot ball bracket hits one of the 'ribs' on the transmission. Gotta call American Powertrain tomorrow.
 
#17 ·


Collar from American Powertrain. My LS1 T56 only has two bolt holes. I do not know what the stud on there is for, and if I use it or not. There are two installation positions for it.
The stud is used if you are using a Hydro Collar style throwout bearing which uses the stud to not spin. I am using the same design on a T-5 transplant I am doing.
 
#9 ·
Two quick questions completely unrelated to each other.

1. How much clearance does having it up on 2x4s give you under the car, it looks like you have a ton of room to work with.

2. Was it previously an automatic (I hope it was, we need more cars with three pedals), I don't see the shifter hole but maybe I'm blind?
 
#15 ·




If you look closely on the right hand "rib" on the trans you can see where the pivot ball bracket hits. Bellhousing will not sit flush on the dowels and trans because of it.

Nice work, Quicktime. I called D&D and they said it was alright to grind a little on the trans. I only need to take off maybe 1/8".

Also of note, the T56 mag has 4 bolts where the slave cyl would go and my LS1 T56 only has two; they said no worries there and just use two.
 
#16 · (Edited)
More shots:


You can see the grinding up top and the section I had to take out.



You can see where the collar hits the bracket.


The bottom of the pivot ball bracket had MAJOR interference with the ribs on the front plate of the trans. I had to take out a section of it and grind it smooth to get the bellhousing to sit flush.

Once that was done and the bell was on, I noticed that the bearing collar did not fit either, again due to the pivot ball bracket. That just took some minor grinding.

Gun to my head, I think the bell and collar were desinged for the T56 Mag, not for the GM LS1 T56 like I'm attempting. Either that or I missed something simple and went way off course... which I really hope didn't happen.

At least now the bellhousing goes on and off with ease, and there's no binding in any spot.
 
#18 ·
Update









I contacted Lakewood, where the tech was very nice but couldn't help too much, so he sent me to Quicktime's rep, who was also nice but couldn't help, and lo and behold a few days later I am contacted by the CEO/head of development at Quicktime to discuss my woes.

I will say that I got great service and support from them, and the CEO took a lot of time to explain to me the ins and outs of how everything goes, from spec'ing a bellhousing for production all the way to installation.

At the end of the day, I was "kind of" right with my post above. This bellhousing fits a Mag very well. However, it should also fit MOST of the LS1 T56's out there with no issue. Mine is an exception- there are 25+ different configurations of front plates out there, and I drew the short straw.

So for those of you at home, you will probably be fine, but in the off chance you are not, be aware that you may need to do what I did. Have no reservations about grinding though- that area is more than strong enough.

I will also be forwarding my trans tags to Quicktime so they can get a hold of one like it to test.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Yeah, I didn't enjoy it in the least. I ended up calling 3 different T56 suppliers to verify that it was cool to do. I also took care to not leave any square edges.

At this point it looks like everything will bolt up fine. I am pretty much ready to start installing everything, just need to get the flywheel resurfaced. Then it all gets shoehorned in and I can get my driveshaft modified.

FWIW the Centerforce TO bearing I got (N1716) fits the American Powertrain collar very well.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Update:

Made some strides over the last week



Here it is ready to go in. It's been said a lot, but it's a big sucker.



Bellhousing and block saver bolted up perfectly. No issues at all there. Plenty of room around the bellhousing.



Was like this all around, even though the engine was hanging at this point.



Underneath, with the trans as high as it would go in the tunnel



The biggie. The transmission is as high as it would go in the tunnel and you can see how much further it has to go based on how much the trans mount sticks out underneath the crossmember. It had to go up pretty significantly.



Cut lines. Note that I had to cut the seat brace out to fit my shifter. If you buy a T56 Magnum I am fairly certain you do not have to go that far.



Great time to fix that radio I guess.



After cutting, plenty of room.



From the top down.



I made some contour curves with some wire and used them to make a 'frame' of sorts to make the new transmission tunnel. I am doing the tunnel in two pieces- an 18" front part and an 8" shifter section so I can mount a shifter boot flat and maybe have more options for making a console later.



Section of seat crossmember I had to remove; seperated from the floor itself. Came out nice and clean. This will have to be reinstalled to restore the structural integrity of the seat brace.



Tunnel in progress. Yes, I am fully aware that I am using an oxy rosebud with a wooden frame, and I exercised extreme caution in doing so. We only needed the wooden frame for 15 minutes of metal work. I used 16ga steel.



Boxed out seat brace before cleanup and pretty-up.


I've got the front part of the tunnel welded up, seam sealed, and primed so all that's left metal wise is to finish the shifter section, cut out the hole, and paint. Then it's clutch and mechanicals time.
 
#27 ·
Update:

Made some strides over the last week



Here it is ready to go in. It's been said a lot, but it's a big sucker.
Thanks for posting this photo of your transmission on the trans jack. I started fabbing up a similar cradle mount today that will fit on the end of my floor jack. I don't mean to hyjack your install thread, just wanted you to know this thread is helping me in many ways.
Ron
 
#22 ·
Thanks for posting all of the photos of your transmission conversion. Much appreciated as I have learned a few things already from your photos.

You mentioned that thsoe with a T56 magnum might not have to cut the seat brace. Can yoyu explain the dirfference between your T56 and the T56 Magnum as far as cutting the seat brace goes? Is the rear portion of the T56Magnum smaller? I just bought a T56 magnum and I will be putting it into my 62 Nova.....smaller tunnel that your car I beleive, so I expect to do lots of cutting and fabrication.
Ron
 
#26 ·
not saying i did the best job of tunnel mods on my Flyer but what i did was to use the "landmarks" on the floor pans of other cars that had a TKO installed and i marked up my floor to the same spots, cut and fabbed it up Prior to even having my transmission... i think i used mostly 1st/2nd gen Chevelle images for my floor mods... you'll notice the configuration (landmarks) between most Chevy's are so so close to the same...
 
#28 · (Edited)
Ok, here's something I have to throw out there. :eek:

When I made my trans tunnel patch, I erroneously went with 16 ga steel after some discussions with local people. It looks like 20-22 gauge is factory for the tunnel, which explains why it was kind of a bear to make the new piece, and why the floor is now crazy rigid vs. before where it would deflect a little. Painted and sealed it looks just fine, so I guess I backed my way into a trans scattershield. :eek:

I wonder if I even need to beef up the seat bracket anymore. I doubt it.

Can anybody out there verify the gauge of stock floor pans? I'd really appreciate it as I want to finish the tunnel after work today. Using a different gauge for that section would make the metalwork a lot easier.
 
#32 ·


Clutch and bellhousing in



Had an interference issue. There was an "ear" on the transmission near the middle of the 3 bolts on the left of this picture. It forced the trans out of alignment so I could not get the trans mount bolts in. Cut it off flush with a sawzall and I could pop the bolts right in afterward.



X-Factor crossmember fit great. Nice work American Powertrain. For reference, the threaded plates go above the crossmember, which sits on the subframe, and you bolt up through the bottom. Some seem to think the plates sit IN the subframe- they do not.



As it sits.


All that's left to do now:

Measure and send out the driveshaft
Make the electrical connections
Reinstall the interior, add a boot
Reinstall exhaust and e-brake

Well, that and eventually get a speedometer :eek:
 
#40 ·
Went out yesterday!


Wildbillly....?
Do you have any experience with the Rockland Standard Gear crew?
Personally, no I do not. A few members in my local club have used them and have been satisfied. I forget how some of the aftermarket T56 companies work off of the top of my head... I think RSG makes/designs some of the parts and sells them to other places that sell beefed up transmissions. I think RSG is the only one that builds the trans that far.
 
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