Whats the best way to install valve cover gaskets? - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 9th-December-2008, 12:19 AM   #1
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Whats the best way to install valve cover gaskets?

Whats the best way to install valve cover gaskets?Anyone got any good tricks to keep them from leaking?Also which are the best...Cork?thanks bm
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Old 9th-December-2008, 12:26 AM   #2
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I have a set of the blue Moroso gaskets i know are at least 5 years old. Never leak, and don't have to use any goop!
They have been off & on many many times.

Also your new AFR heads have raised gasket surface and a good machined area.

I say no gasket sealer needed. And get a quality gasket.

AL
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Last edited by The Big Al; 9th-December-2008 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 01:55 AM   #3
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If using cork one's I usually use some 3M weatherstrip adhistive and glue themto the valve cover and then put a little grease on the gasket before putting them on the engine...has worked for me for years. On the race car we use the blue Moroso's since they are going on and off all the time.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 01:59 AM   #4
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If you have stamped valve covers usually I'll tack the gasket here and there to the cover's lips. Not too much though because it's a PIA to get off the cover then. Also some spreaders to spread the load helps.

If they're machined covers, don't sweat it, just get 'em on and tighten them down a little. I agree with AL also here, rubber type valve cover gaskets do a much better job and are reusable.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 02:04 AM   #5
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I dont remove my valve covers so once they are set Im fine. I use a very thin skim coat or gaskacinch (sp?) on both sides. Let it dry up completely then assemble. No leaks, but I have stiff valve covers too. JR
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Old 9th-December-2008, 08:55 AM   #6
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I have tried many a gasket, cork, Neoprene, MLS rubber steel, the felpro preformed rubber steel, many.... and always come back to the thick cork.... I use a skim coat of silicone on the cover, apply the gasket and lay flat with my motors manual on top over night...
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Old 9th-December-2008, 10:32 AM   #7
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The Fel-Pro rubber/steel have been on my last few engines (same set) no sealant needed. Stiff cast covers make a difference; my old Moroso lightweight stamped aluminum ones flexed so much they were hard to seal.
But in my slimeball engine compartment it's hard to tell where it comes from!!
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Old 9th-December-2008, 12:15 PM   #8
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I have done everything listed above also. What I found is that a good cast valve cover is the best start. They don't warp or bend when they are tightned down. The only sealant I use now is between the valve cover and gasket, but I also have aluminum heads with a nice flat rail. Don't over tighten the cork gaskets or they will split.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 12:15 PM   #9
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Never could get a cork gasket to seal...until I stopped over tightening them...problem solved.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 07:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veno View Post
I have tried many a gasket, cork, Neoprene, MLS rubber steel, the felpro preformed rubber steel, many.... and always come back to the thick cork.... I use a skim coat of silicone on the cover, apply the gasket and lay flat with my motors manual on top over night...
I also like the extra thick Felpro (1/4") cork valve cover gaskets. I apply a thin bead of Permatex red to the valve covers and glue them on. Gaskecinch will work too. Only apply the stuff to the valve covers though or your gaskets will be a one-shot deal. You want them to come-off with the valve covers and not stick to the heads.

The thick gaskets are necessary with certain intake manifolds that interfere with the flange on the valve cover. They raise the cover up higher so the flange doesn't touch the intake when you tighten them down.

I remove the valve covers on my engines periodically to adjust valve lash and they come right off nice with the gasket in place on the valve cover. The gaskets last for years and can be removed many times. Best of all, the don't leak no matter what type of valve covers you're using.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 09:47 PM   #11
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i jsut use the steel core this rubber ones. i reuse them all the time, a couple years old. if you use cork, make sure to use it dry. a lot of people add silicone, but silicone doesnt grip cork so it wont be long until it poops out.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 11:42 PM   #12
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all the above work.

But one thing I haven't seen mentioned is the use of studs over bolts.

I have always used studs, place gasket on so the gasket is centered, palce cover on, tighten cover with nuts and washers evenly.

Or you can go with an LS motor which has a nice preformed press-in o-ring style.
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Old 9th-December-2008, 11:54 PM   #13
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i take a wire wheel or some fine grit sand paper or emery paper to the valve cover where the gasket is suppose to go wipe it off, and i apply a gneours amount of HI-TAK let it sit for a minue or 2 and put the gasket on and turnt he valve cover over and put a couple of weight thigns on top of it and let it sit for 10-15 minutes to cure and it seales the valve cover to the gasket then i use a thin film of axle grease or black rtv on the gasket to head side. never had one leak on me. also i do not tighten the snot out of them
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Old 11th-December-2008, 06:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane View Post
all the above work.

But one thing I haven't seen mentioned is the use of studs over bolts.

I have always used studs, place gasket on so the gasket is centered, palce cover on, tighten cover with nuts and washers evenly.

Or you can go with an LS motor which has a nice preformed press-in o-ring style.
I use studs with the Blue Morosos. No sealer at all. no leaks here.
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