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looks like we all have the same problems or not?,I have a 65 chevy II all stock and all new from top to bottom ,engine also rebuild 230 cc 6 inline ,,,before the radiator a have right now a new 2 row stock copper one ,,,I had a 3 row aluminum ,,,temp was great (I belive)on the 170 range but aluminum and cast iron block don't get along to well ,,,anyway I think it was defective from day one and after 1 year it started to leak,,,,I replaced it with the stock I mention before and now that we have 90 f weather the temp on my chevy runs about 210/213 goes down to 200 and again to 210 ,,,the stat is a 160,,normal 70 80 dregree weather runs at 180/190...
I have and old book and show "thermo opening temp"for a 65 is 180
for a 63 w a 194cc 180,too and most of the chevys with a 6 cly engine the stat shows that it should open at 180,,means that 180 is the minimum operating temp,,,my guess is that it should be running at 200 more or less ,,also I found some info on this book and
I took some pictures of the pages of this book maybe can help you guys to find the problem if there's any(note I could not upload 2 more pages if you need them contact to me and I email them...
Last edited by amilcar; 2nd-June-2013 at 05:35 PM.
I have two 63's and both of them run way too hot. If the ambient temp is 75 degrees or more they both will run between 210 and 225 degrees. They run hotter in town than on the road but even at highway speeds they will both get to 210+. That is much hotter than they should run with with 160 stats. I tested one car on a 95 degree day driving at 55+ MPH in a hilly area and the temp reached 235 degrees.
Both engines have optional 6 cyl Air Conditioner radiators with factory mechanical fans. I believe the timing is set at 8 degrees on both cars. The engines themselves are mechanically sound and yes, I am running 50/50 antifreeze.
The automatic transmissions are NOT run through the radiator but instead they are routed to remote coolers that are mounted under the passenger seat. In other words, the transmission heat does not contribute to an additional cooling load for the radiator.
The fans have plenty of pull at idle. Each car can hold a shop towel against the radiator at an idle. My radiator shop says this proves the fan draw is adequate to cool the car. My radiator caps have been replaced, too.
This is a long term problem.
Any ideas? Color me stumped
I have a 63 wagon with a 230 cid (out of a '64) It has an external trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator/ it has no trans fluid going thru the radiator.about 8 years ago it would run hot on hot days (8o + degrees ambient temperature would result in 220 + I would end up shutting it down to let her cool off) either stop and go or idleing/( I too had the original 4 blade steel fan) and the original radiator. I found a radiator out of a '66 with an inline 6 (wider) and i had it rebuilt with a high efficiency 3 row core This improved the stop and go issue alot but did nothing for overheating @ idle.I ended up having mattsons radiator in so cal ( stanton) build and install a fan shroud..... PROBLEM SOLVED it wont go past 190 degrees no mater what and no matter the ambient temp. It will usually run much cooler than this but never pass 190 degrees BTW I too am running a 160 degree thermostat. .....I recomend a fan shroud once youve figured out why your 250 is overheating @ highway speeds
I ran some radiator flush through it, but did not do the "reverse flush" thing. The radiator LOOKS really clean, but I guess you never know.
Probably need to get a new (3 core) radiator.
Gonna try to fab up a shroud first though. I'll report back after I get that done.
I have installed a shroud on my 63 wagon with a 230cid this engine seems to NEED a shroud vs a 194 because
in the early eighties i had a 62 wagon absolutely bone stock 194 slip and slide and i would pile my friends and all our stuff and drive to the beach and drive back sit in traffic idle in 100 degree weather I can not say what temperature it ran at but it never boiled over or pinged or felt like it was hot without a shroud. the car had an idiot light only no guages
Last edited by rodnokn6; 15th-July-2013 at 09:48 PM.
I think I solved my hot running issue tonight. It is the same thing I ran into with a SBC in my '65 C10 truck. After checking the timing and getting it about where tlowe said, not much difference. I checked the temp of the coolant in the radiator with a temp probe and it was showing 180-185* even though the gauge inside was saying 205-210*.
I moved the temp sender from the head back to where it was originally, in the t-stat housing. Now it's running 175-180* and goes up to about 195* when stopped idling at a light or traffic. Perfect! Same solution I did on my truck.
I think having the sender in the head, gives a false reading due to the combustion chamber transferring heat too close to the sender.
Where is your sending unit at? Might be this simple.
Get a temp probe into the top of the radiator (where the cap goes, cap off) and verify the temp reading of the coolant. My IR temp gun was reading like the gauge at the sender and was about 10* hotter on the top of the t-stat neck but the coolant was at the correct 180*.
Moving my sender to the t-stat housing (the part that bolts directly to the block) show the matching reading of the temp probe in the coolant I stuck in the top of the radiator.
Are you using a factory gauge with factory sender or all aftermarket stuff?
Before tearing into the engine, I would move the sender. Took me all of 10 minutes to do.
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