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I know, after I get a electric fan mounted and find an upper radiator hose that works I will design a cold air intake
Or just get rid of the o2's and MAF all together and run SD OL (Speed Density Open Loop)
In my opinion, to tune correctly you need to disable the MAF and put it into SD anyhow, then re-enable the MAF and scale the tables back to the correct values.
Or just get rid of the o2's and MAF all together and run SD OL (Speed Density Open Loop)
In my opinion, to tune correctly you need to disable the MAF and put it into SD anyhow, then re-enable the MAF and scale the tables back to the correct values.
isn't MAF better? Isn't that why GM went from MAF on the tuned ports to speed density then back to MAF on the LT1s and continued to use MAF on the LS motors? My motor is all stock with the exception of a cold air intake and headers I won't be doing any tuning Just removing all the emissions crap from the PCM and changing the fan on and off temps and setting up the PCM for my gear ratio and tire height. I'm even leaving the timing the same
__________________ RIGHT ON BRO! MY RIDE
photo album THE LONGROOF SOCIETY NorCal NovasProverbs 13:3
The throttle blade being that close to the MAF disturbes the airflow through the MAF which causes incorrect readings so the computor is making fueling decisions on bad info. The motor will run it just won't be right under certain circumstances (especially WOT) it will run fat or lean in different areas.
For instance when we datalogged my MAF readings they were showing airflow rates at just over 425 crank hp, but the motor is actually closer to 375.
I would strongly recomend having the engine properly tuned as the factory tune gives way to much up to compromise smog, longevity and mileage. The factory spark tables for a truck motor are a joke. There are serious HP and mileage gains to be had from a good tune as well as retuning the trans for proper shift points and feel.
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63 wagon L33 4L60E 12 Bolt 3.73 VA gen IV Willwood Brakes CBR front w/power rack & Watts link rear
The throttle blade being that close to the MAF disturbes the airflow through the MAF which causes incorrect readings so the computor is making fueling decisions on bad info. The motor will run it just won't be right under certain circumstances (especially WOT) it will run fat or lean in different areas.
For instance when we datalogged my MAF readings they were showing airflow rates at just over 425 crank hp, but the motor is actually closer to 375.
I would strongly recomend having the engine properly tuned as the factory tune gives way to much up to compromise smog, longevity and mileage. The factory spark tables for a truck motor are a joke. There are serious HP and mileage gains to be had from a good tune as well as retuning the trans for proper shift points and feel.
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"Real Race Cars Have Tailgates"
I really want to just get my car running and driving at some point I can drive it to a dyno tuners and have it all dialed in for now, I just want to drive my car
__________________ RIGHT ON BRO! MY RIDE
photo album THE LONGROOF SOCIETY NorCal NovasProverbs 13:3
I got a little more work done. The radiator hoses are done, the electric fan is installed, PCM is mounted and the fuel line/corvette filter is done
To do:
hook up shift linkage
get correct length drive shaft
make a cold air intake
get exhaust made
__________________ RIGHT ON BRO! MY RIDE
photo album THE LONGROOF SOCIETY NorCal NovasProverbs 13:3
wooooooo!!! I fired her up today for the first time!!! I only let it run long enough to make sure the drive by wire gas pedal worked, I revved her up a few good times there's no coolant in the radiator yet and she's still straight headers but it runs!!!! wooooo! I'll fill it up with coolant tomorrow and hook up the shift linkage to make sure the trans works I'll post a video up tomorrow
__________________ RIGHT ON BRO! MY RIDE
photo album THE LONGROOF SOCIETY NorCal NovasProverbs 13:3
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