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I have never seen the yellow bottle 3M compund.
I do not know the number, but my compound is a purple bottle with a white lid. A buy gallons at a time so I haven't bought any for a few months.
I use the compound with a wool pad on the rotary buffer. Some use foam COMPOUND pad, foam is slower cutting but is is also safer for a beginner.
I then clean the car and use the orbital with a foam POLISH pad for the polish. As previously posted, the rotary will work for polish.
I clean again and hand polish with Race Glaze.
I use microfibers and a water/alchol mix in a spray bottle for all wiping.
I use three color of microfibers so I do not wipe polish off with a towel I used for compound.
drnova69, not sure what tools you need to buff but since your in Chicago i would have no problem loaning you my Stuff i have a Milwaukee buffer same as a body shop uses i also have a Porter Cable orbital that i use for Finishing and removing any swirl marks its a great tool. I have any thing you need to buff your paint.
drnova69, not sure what tools you need to buff but since your in Chicago i would have no problem loaning you my Stuff i have a Milwaukee buffer same as a body shop uses i also have a Porter Cable orbital that i use for Finishing and removing any swirl marks its a great tool. I have any thing you need to buff your paint.
drnova69, not sure what tools you need to buff but since your in Chicago i would have no problem loaning you my Stuff i have a Milwaukee buffer same as a body shop uses i also have a Porter Cable orbital that i use for Finishing and removing any swirl marks its a great tool. I have any thing you need to buff your paint.
i would go until the shiny spots are gone. thats what i did. Im in the process of my first paint job. I have the body and trunk done. I sanded and first stage buffed the body. I went a little to far sanding on t he one quarter and went thru the clear. tried to sand a clear over but didnt pan out. I am now gonna have to blend the spot a went thru and re clear panel. Just be careful and dont be too anal. that was my problem. I saw some issues I thought i could get out and in reality no one else saw them but me. you see little think here and there that bother you since your right up against the panel when sanding.
i would go until the shiny spots are gone. thats what i did. Im in the process of my first paint job. I have the body and trunk done. I sanded and first stage buffed the body. I went a little to far sanding on t he one quarter and went thru the clear. tried to sand a clear over but didnt pan out. I am now gonna have to blend the spot a went thru and re clear panel. Just be careful and dont be too anal. that was my problem. I saw some issues I thought i could get out and in reality no one else saw them but me. you see little think here and there that bother you since your right up against the panel when sanding.
yeah your right about only seeing them close up but anyway I did sand with 1500 again and then I did 2000 it looks real good only a few scarce shiney spots now I think im going to start buffing tomorrow
Also while I was sanding I noticed the painted didnt clear the lower part of my front fender right below the body line can anybody recommend a spray can clear to hit that spot?
Hey, not trying to step on anyones toes but i wouldn't use 800 or even 1000 grit to sand out orange peel. I've been painting for 15 years or better and use those coarser grits for runs or sags, not just orange peel depending on how much clear was applied.unless ur in a hurry to knock the finish down i would suggest starting with 1200 wet then 1500. 3m step 1 will buff out 1200 or finer but the finer grit you progress to ie. 1500, 2000, 3000 the less buffing you will need to do and you will eliminate some of the deeper sand scratches you can get when using those coarser grits. Use step 1 fast cutting rubbing compound swith to step 2 swirl mark remover with the appropiate pad then step 3 polishing compound with that corosponding pad. Make sure you keep from mixing pads and wash them out after use to keep them clean. Like the other member noted, wipe off resedue before proceeding because it is difficult to remove when dry especially in little cracks n corners. And whatch out for the edges, it's very easy to rub through. If you follow the dirrection on the bottles you should have no problems ie buffer speed and pressure.
Just my oppinion
depend on how much clear is on the car and how nice you want it. I start with 600 to get this......
Looks good, as being a detailer I want some up close sun shots to see how you really did. What was your compound and polishing methods? If there are any remaining scratches they should only be straight line scratches from sanding not swirls that where induced with the buffer.
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only a few scarce shiney spots now I think im going to start buffing tomorrow 
can anybody recommend a spray can clear to hit that spot?
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