Top end kit cam/lifter question!? - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 25th-December-2012, 12:10 AM   #1
on a bugdet
 
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Top end kit cam/lifter question!?

So instead of continue to save $$$ for a 383 and waiting another 2 years Ive decided to put in a top end kit from summit. SO here is my question what would be a better top end kit for a 350, there are 2 kits I been looking at and I Dont know what the #'s mean.
Kit
1) Summit Racing® Top End Engine Kits for Small Chevy SME-K-355-400
Combo, Aluminum, Cylinder Heads, Manifold, Cam/Lifters 442/465 Gaskets, Bolts, SB Chevy

2)Summit Racing® Top End Engine Kits for Small Chevy SME-K-375-400
Combo, Aluminum, Cylinder Heads, Manifold, Cam/Lifters 465/488, Gaskets, Bolts, SB Chevy.

my engine is tired I have a four bolt main, its a 76 block from a truck.
What does the cam/lifters numbers mean and witch would work better with my block? Im leaning more towards the the second kit seeing that I have a Holley 750 double pumper.
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Old 25th-December-2012, 07:22 PM   #2
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Rebuild the tired bottom end, don't just put a new top end on it. If I had to choose between the two you listed it'd be the 2nd one. 3.73 gears and a 3000 converter.
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Old 29th-December-2012, 05:20 PM   #3
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I have an m21 tranny
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Old 29th-December-2012, 07:45 PM   #4
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If the bottom end is tired you just wasted your money buying a top end kit. At the very least re-ring and put new bearings in it. If the bores ect look good ball hone it and do the cheapie rebuild and it should run 30k more before it needs new pistions ect.Even better yet watch c-list I've seen some good deals on engines that are ready to go.If you choose that plan make sure the pan is off so you can get a decent ideal whats going on in there.
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Old 29th-December-2012, 07:52 PM   #5
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Well the engine was rebuilt 5 years ago, but it was driven by the previous owner on a daily basis for a year before I bought the car, The car been parked except once a month when I pull it out of the garage to clean the garage out.
The reason I said its tired is that the heads on there are the garbage smog restricted heads! Mechanic checked the compression and said it was ok but the top end needs to go I wanted more power!
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Old 29th-December-2012, 09:33 PM   #6
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Well if thats the case, I would get some decent heads and go from there.What casting number heads are on there now? 882 castings are considered junk for about any application. Look and see what you have a bigger cam wont help on a flow restricted head anyway.
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Old 29th-December-2012, 09:45 PM   #7
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check out the top end kits on summit they are complete kits with heads, cam, manifold, timing chain.

Last edited by on a bugdet; 29th-December-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 30th-December-2012, 09:58 AM   #8
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Just my I would recheck the compression and cylinder leakage before I did anything to the top end. If you're motor has less an 8.5-1 compression ratio the top end kit will only give minimal power increase. Was the motor bored when it was rebuilt? If so you can can get a good stroker 383 crank,rods and pistons for a resonable price long as you're going to stay around the 500 HP range. PM big AL for some part pricing. RICK
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Last edited by MBZTECH; 30th-December-2012 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 30th-December-2012, 05:23 PM   #9
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MBZTECH The engine is not bored. I will buy my own compression tester and check it myself! Around 500 Horsepower sounds good to me.

Last edited by on a bugdet; 30th-December-2012 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 30th-December-2012, 05:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBZTECH View Post
Just my I would recheck the compression and cylinder leakage before I did anything to the top end. If you're motor has less an 8.5-1 compression ratio the top end kit will only give minimal power increase. Was the motor bored when it was rebuilt? If so you can can get a good stroker 383 crank,rods and pistons for a resonable price long as you're going to stay around the 500 HP range. PM big AL for some part pricing. RICK
I can't advertise for the company.

As a Steves's member

Yes, call me and I will beat that kit with better quality parts and we can pick any Herbert flat tappet cam we want.

PM me if ya wish.

Thanks
Al
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Old 30th-December-2012, 05:48 PM   #11
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Good point stated on the lower compression it prob has being around 76 and prob same crappy 882 heads so make sure the chamber size on the new heads you choose is smaller than the 76cc of the 882 heads so as to bring compression up a 63cc chamber size would be a good choice. .
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Old 30th-December-2012, 08:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by on a bugdet View Post
MBZTECH The engine is not bored. I will buy my own compression tester and check it myself! Around 500 Horsepower sounds good to me.
Do you have the block and cylinder head numbers? RICK
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Old 30th-December-2012, 09:06 PM   #13
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this is what was stamped on the block behind the alternator
first line: V0801TYY
second line (beneath the first): C7Z218156
casting #3970010
date code: G317
Head stamped #: 462654
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Old 30th-December-2012, 09:23 PM   #14
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V0801TYY
V=Flint
08=August
01= 1st
TYY=1975 C20 truck 350 4 barl 165hp


3970010= 50/50 chance of 4 bolt main
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Last edited by The Big Al; 30th-December-2012 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 30th-December-2012, 10:15 PM   #15
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Sorry to say but with those HP numbers you have probably the worst piston,rod and cylinder head combination chevy ever produced. Do a cylinder leakage test first any thing below about 12% not great but ok the lower the leakage the better! The compression ratio in that motor is at best about 7.5x1 8.0x1 When you buy the top end kit also buy the .015 thick cylinder headgaskets this will raise the comp ratio to about 8.5 to 9.0 with the 64 cc heads. Pocket port the heads and have the valves back cut this should give you approx. 300 hp. With this piston rod combo you will not be able rev this motor much over 5,000 rpms as you could break a rod or piston.
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