Rear axel ford 9" or GM 12 bolt. - Page 2 - Chevy Nova Forum
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Old 4th-November-2009, 06:52 PM   #16
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If your car is an average street machine, it really doesn't matter.

If your engine has some serious power and you plan to put it through some abuse, I'd definitely go with the 9".
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Old 4th-November-2009, 07:21 PM   #17
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10 bolt upgraded with moser axles, eaton posi, richmond gears, a girdle and welded tubes. You'll be just about as strong as a 12 bolt. This is what I did and it see's about 430hp and 450 ft lbs tq with no issues so far.
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Old 4th-November-2009, 10:45 PM   #18
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If I was going to put a new axle under my car I think I would go with one of the strange S60 axles. Bolt in like a 12 bolt and strength like a Dana 60. Yes the Dana 60s have a lot of weight but they are really really strong.

I have never used the S60, I only have experience with stock 12 bolts, 9 inch and Dana 60s.
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Old 4th-November-2009, 11:14 PM   #19
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im running a 12 bolt no issues. after im done with the 4 speed i am going to consider a dana 60. i do not like 9 inches. they take more power to turn then a 12 bolt or dana 60!
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Old 4th-November-2009, 11:16 PM   #20
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im running a 12 bolt no issues. after im done with the 4 speed i am going to consider a dana 60. i do not like 9 inches. they take more power to turn then a 12 bolt or dana 60!
How much more?

How many ponies would you gain by using either vs a 9"?

I plan to subject my 9" to 1,000 HP. How many ponies am I losing by using a 9"?

Here it is. Reinforced fabricated housing with a Mark Williams "through-bolt" aluminum thirdmember case:

[IMG]https://publish.comcast.net/rpath/Ntulqg5-riN4yzrbWN50J-hnE1-BjssYiRf7jA8JQ8baVVxx**Bd04Nre_fUN4xdvOBgJRI7PgiZR aJuxur3DnqnMHhJI0ANEaPvG1BICTg/[/IMG]



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Old 4th-November-2009, 11:36 PM   #21
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For those that are complaining about the hp it takes to turn a 9". You need to look into the bearings they make for them now and have for awhile now. The bearings is what was the hold up. If you want a rearend with the least hp to turn you might as well go with a 8 3/4 chrysler. I went with a 9" for a couple of reasons. It was easy to find a 9" housing cheap and I already had a nodular 3rd member with a posi in it. 64pronova That is the same 3rd member we ran in our drag car and it is a nice piece. You will be happy with that setup. It will last you a very long time.
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Old 4th-November-2009, 11:51 PM   #22
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12 bolt for a GM, 9" is cool but belongs in a Ford.
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Old 4th-November-2009, 11:53 PM   #23
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Well I decided to do a search and found this from Car Craft:

Chevy Chevelle Rear Axle Swap - The Great Rear Axle Comparo

We've all heard that the Ford 9-inch is the strongest rearend you can buy. According to the Ford guys at least, it's also the best overall decision for strength and durability. If pressed, they'll also accept that the 9-inch might eat a little more horsepower than the other-style rearends. Numbers are also tossed about like resolutions on New Year's Eve, but no one seems to know exactly. We've also heard that the Dana 60 is a killer piece but that it's monster heavy and overkill for anything short of a blown Hemi on steroids. What you also notice is that opinions on strength and efficiency tend to follow party lines. In other words, the Ford guys will vote for the 9-inch, the Chrysler guys will wave the Dana 60 flag, while the GM guys all line up behind the 12-bolt. No surprises there.

Rear-Wheel Power Numbers
Average power is another way to look at the differences among these three rearend assemblies. As you can see from the chart, all three are very close in terms of peak and average horsepower and torque. The greatest difference is between the 12-bolt and the Ford 9-inch, with an average rear-wheel horsepower loss of 6.6 hp and 2.6 lb-ft of torque for the 9-inch. Since the average power takes into account the entire run, this represents only a 2 percent rear-wheel horsepower difference between the 12-bolt and the Ford 9-inch. The power difference isn't very much, which means it would be difficult to measure in terms of lost e.t. among these three rearends. We'd expect the difference in performance on the dragstrip between the 12-bolt and the Ford would be measured in hundredths of a second. Now you know.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...wap/index.html
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Old 5th-November-2009, 02:42 PM   #24
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I think as alot of us, we want the best value for our hard earned dollar. The 9" I have in my car was in the car when I bought it. Was it up to my standards? No, so I upgraded it and did it in a very fugal manner. I realized that the housing was a small bearing housing, called Currie and they had a set of 31 spline axles that will fit these bearings. Had Currie weld the tubes to the center clog. Bought a Detroit Locker and Richmond 4.11 gear and replaced the pinion to accept a 1350 Spicer u-joint from Inland Empire Driveline. And I am well under a grand for a good solid rear end.
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Old 5th-November-2009, 08:18 PM   #25
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I just purchased a strange S60 to replace my 12 bolt.The 12 bolt had 30 spline pro-tuff axles that were great but in my 3500lb nova with 700hp i know i would have had a problem.The up grade on my 12 bolt would have cost me 1500 (33 spline stuff and labor)so i sold it for a 1000 and had a new S60 to my door for 2500 drum to drum.I know i added some weight but i will feel better coming off the trans brake on spray then with my 30 spline stuff.I have to say it is very heavy i will not know how much till i get to a scale but i know one thing that i will not have to worry about breaking it until i make some stupid HP
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Old 5th-November-2009, 09:38 PM   #26
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Yeah I have a hard time trusting a 12-bolt to hold up to 1,000 HP which is why I even didn't consider using one.

Plus my 9" is all aftermarket and significantly stronger than a factory setup.

There's only so much you can do to beef-up a 12 bolt.
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Old 6th-November-2009, 03:24 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64PRONOVA View Post
How much more?

How many ponies would you gain by using either vs a 9"?

I plan to subject my 9" to 1,000 HP. How many ponies am I losing by using a 9"?

Here it is. Reinforced fabricated housing with a Mark Williams "through-bolt" aluminum thirdmember case:

[IMG]https://publish.comcast.net/rpath/Ntulqg5-riN4yzrbWN50J-hnE1-BjssYiRf7jA8JQ8baVVxx**Bd04Nre_fUN4xdvOBgJRI7PgiZR aJuxur3DnqnMHhJI0ANEaPvG1BICTg/[/IMG]



holy schnikes! Now that is a rearend.
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Old 6th-November-2009, 09:39 PM   #28
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The guy that dirty's his knees to look under my rear bumper will see a 12 bolt. Sure did take some mods to put it there and cost a lot. To see the smile on his face when he stands up.
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Old 7th-November-2009, 12:38 AM   #29
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That is pretty cool. How much would you say your rear setup cost? I've got to do one similar on a GM C1500
Thanks.. Hmm, I have ALL the receipts up stairs. But just thinking from here. Not counting the art morrison 4-link, or were you talking about that also?

If you were, the AM clip was 2500 (oh, and this is all 1996 prices), the reider racing center section was 1500, strange axles a hundy or so, cadillac brakes about 600, air ride was a complete system front and back, I think 2500, maybe a lil more, but just for the rear SWs 900 each without the control system. Roll bar 250, watts link, maybe 650.

So, with splitting the cost of the air ride system for just the back half total, without all the fasteners which believe it or not is another 300 bucks the rear has about 6700 bucks in it. Thats without the cost of all the stainless lines for the air ride which they dont use.

So, ditch the 2500 bucks for the art morrison rear clip and its 4200 bucks for all of it minus the frame work and 9" housing.

And really, Im forgetting some of the parts, lil stuff like brake lines. Nuther 75 bucks. Yup, three (good) flex stainless brake lines can be another 75 bucks.

It just kills me on how the lil stuff eats up the bank. And yes!!! You can forgo some of it, but even if you go with an unknown part, say a fastener, rod end or air line and fitting its still gonna nickel and dime you to pieces.

Dont tell my wife!!! LOL She still thinks I have a piece of crap taking up the garage thats only worth 1500 bucks. And she may be correct. But I still want my lil spot in the garage. Cant give that up LOL JR
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Old 7th-November-2009, 01:21 AM   #30
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Seeing that watts linkage on there reminds me of the one my Dad made and put on his stock car back in the early 80's. I am using the same nodular 9" 3rd member he used in his stock car for years.
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