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Jay the back isn't very pretty and there was nothing modified on the tach.
I pretty much just hacked a big hole in the area the clock would be, but just big enough for the housing to fit snug and be centered in the opening.
Then I slid the tach in with the ring clamp mount attached. The clamp was adjusted to seat against the inside of the cluster housing so when the cluster is assembled the tach is held in place.
The printed circuit needs to be left intact for the dash lights to work, so I insulated it with tape where it lays on the tach housing. I would have prefered to trim it off but that one run for the dash lights prevented it.
Thanks for the info. Looks like you have the tach in there pretty snug. That printed circuit board could be difficult sometimes. I'm not an electric guru to even attempt to work around it, so it's one of those things we have to live with.
I wanted to cut the end of the circuit off. I tried to solder a jumper lead to reroute the circuit but the printed copper is just to thin. It transfers heat rapidly melting the circuit board. I found my beryllium/copper soldering tweezers after digging around in my tool box. The material absorbs heat rapidly and when clamped onto the copper it will stop the flow of heat past the point they are attached. So I am going to try again to eliminate the extra piece hanging out.
The only thing that holds the circuit to the cluster are the bulbs and the contacts for the fuel gauge. It is easy to remove and replace.
Hey Philip, what model number and diameter is that Autometer tach? Also do you know if it comes in white face? Here are pics of what I did to my instrument panel using white face gauges (water-slide decals).
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