Valve Adjustment on new Inline 6 Cylinder Head (Help)

[jimbo63]

I have an inline 6 on my 63 with a new cylinder head installed.
Now I need to try and crank it up and wanted to get the valve lash right.

Spoke to fella at Auto Zone and got these instructions..sound right to you guys?

Valve Lash Adjustment Instructions for 1963 Chevy II 194 Inline Six (w Hydraulic Cam) that’s had a cylinder head replacement

1. Make sure the #1 cylinder is top dead center and tighten up until the push rod is barely moving up and down.
2. Count how many threads that there are left above the nut
3. Match the rest of the pushrod rocker arms to that thread count as a starting point
4. Install clip on valve lash tappets to deflect the oil from shooting out all over
5. Run the car a little, a few min it will run rough and have clicking sounds
6. Place your thumb onto the rocker and tighten til the clicks have gone
7. Once its all quiet then start at #1 while standing in front of the engine and place the ratchet on with handle pointing to 3 o’clock and pull down to 6 o’clock which is ¼ turn
8. It will run rough
9. If it doesn’t smooth out let it run a min and it should, but if it doesn’t then back off and repeat.
10. Always keep the ratchet mounted and do not remove till engine runs smooth in order to keep your place in the rotation
11. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE to try and smooth things out, let it run

[chevyIIguy]

Sounds ok I always loosen mine till they click tighen them till they stop then go 1/4 turn tighter but you can also do it with feeler guages and the engine off do a search there are a few threads about this

[Rotorbolt]

That works if its running and the cam is already broke in.. I did mine the way the factory manual states. One cylinder at a time setting each one at TDC firing position and adjusting both cylinder valves in the firing order of the engine.
Adjust the valves when the lifter is on the base circle of the camshaft as follows:
1. Mark distrubutor housing with chalk, at each plug wire position then disconnect plug wires at spark plugs and remove the distributor cap and plug wire assembly.
2. Turn the engine over until the distributor rotor points to number one cylinder position and breaker points are open. Both valves on number one cylinder may now be adjusted.
3. Back out adjusting nut untill lash is felt at the push rod and turn in adjusting nut untill all lash is removed. This can be determined by checking push rod side play while turning the adjusting nut. When play is removed, turn the adjusting nut one full additional turn ( to center the lifter plunger).
4. Adjust the remaining valves one cylinder at a time in the same manner.
5. reinstall the distributor cap and wire assembly.
6. install the valve cover

[jimbo63]

Originally Posted by Rotorbolt

That works if its running and the cam is already broke in.. I did mine the way the factory manual states. One cylinder at a time setting each one at TDC firing position and adjusting both cylinder valves in the firing order of the engine.
Adjust the valves when the lifter is on the base circle of the camshaft as follows:
1. Mark distrubutor housing with chalk, at each plug wire position then disconnect plug wires at spark plugs and remove the distributor cap and plug wire assembly.
2. Turn the engine over until the distributor rotor points to number one cylinder position and breaker points are open. Both valves on number one cylinder may now be adjusted.
3. Back out adjusting nut untill lash is felt at the push rod and turn in adjusting nut untill all lash is removed. This can be determined by checking push rod side play while turning the adjusting nut. When play is removed, turn the adjusting nut one full additional turn ( to center the lifter plunger).
4. Adjust the remaining valves one cylinder at a time in the same manner.
5. reinstall the distributor cap and wire assembly.
6. install the valve cover

I want to make sure I get this right being a newbie cause not only did I remove the cylinder head to be rebuilt (by a cylinder head repair shop) but I have also done a few other things that might be worth mentioning before I turn the key

• Rebuilt the rochester single carb (according to the instructions in the kit from NAPA)
• Installed an HEI conversion kit from Pertronix (according to the instructions in the kit from Pertronix)

Becuase its an HEI conversion I think that what youve listed above would be different in my case right?

Heres where I am currently in putting it back together