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What is this noise under the valve cover?

18K views 85 replies 29 participants last post by  David&Melissa_h 
#1 ·
Hydraulic or solid?

I notaced some rocker noise from the pass side of my motor nothing real bad just some clatter since my valve covers are leaking oil I decided to adjust the valve lash while Iam in there.
after looking at the pretty new roller rockers I started thinking hmmm does this thing have hydrolic or solid lifters:confused:
Person I bought it from doesnt return my calls so I was wondering how can I tell for sure cus I think if they are solid I am going to replace them.
From what I have read on this board solid need constant adjusting and can be noisey.

I am going to adjust these with out the motor running( first time I have always done it running but dont have a extra set of tall valve covers:mad:)
 
#5 ·
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-CL12-433-8&autoview=sku

Brand: COMP Cams
Product Line: COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Retro-Fit Cam and Lifter Kits
Part Type: Camshaft and Lifter Kits
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,500-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 242
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236 int./242 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 288
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 294
Advertised Duration: 288 int./294 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.520 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.540 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.520 int./0.540 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Grind Number: CS XR288HR-10
Computer Controlled Compatible: No
Lifters Included: Yes
Lifter Style: Hydraulic roller
Valve Springs Included: No
Retainers Included: No
Locks Included: No
Valve Stem Seals Included: No
Timing Chain and Gears Included: No
Assembly Lubricant Included: Yes
Pushrods Included: No
Rocker Arms Included: No
Gaskets Included: No
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Notes: Requires thrust button and wear plate.

Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 288/294, Lift .520/.540, Chevy, Small Block, Kit

Check to make sure this part fits your application
Xtreme performance cam kits.
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy retro-fit cam and lifter kits are built to take advantage of the latest cam technology, to provide maximum performance. Whether your use is off-roading, towing, or street performance, there is an Xtreme Energy kit available for you. By using an aggressive lobe profile, these cam and lifter kits provide better throttle response and more top-end horsepower than equivalent cams from other manufacturers, while delivering increased engine vacuum.
 
#6 ·
Sounds like a decent cam but I always adjust all of my hydraulics without the engine running. Adjusting by "ear" is not as accurate. Not that you really have to be that accurate when adjusting hydraulic lifters but doing it without the engine running is less messy and allows you to make the preload almost exactly the same on each lifter.
 
#8 ·
There is only one way to adjust rockers IMO. After the engine is hot and running you should hear it just start to "clatter" as you start to loosen the jam nut. Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle depth. Do this on all the valves..
 
#10 ·
Thats how I have always adjusted them with holes in the valve covers.
I now have roller rockers with tall covers and no extra covers to cut up.
I want to try it the clean way and see what happens.
Now if I could get motavated and get out to the garage:)
I just cant seem to get off the couch today:eek: well I hear the couch calling gotta go!:D
 
#11 ·
Doing it that way is nowhere near as accurate as doing it with the engine off and you are guaranteed to have a different preload on every lifter. Listening for a sound is a lot more subjective than actually feeling it and then using the rocker nut like a micrometer to set the preload. It really doesn't make much sense to adjust your lifter preload with the engine running. It's harder on the lifters, the results are less accurate, plus it's messy.

None of the cam manufacturers recommend setting hydraulic lifter preload by ear with the engine running.

Here are the factory instructions from Comp Cams on how to proprly set the preload on your hydraulic roller lifters.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/COMP4-115.pdf
 
#15 ·
thanks 64pronova for posting the comp cams link, i'm running the same grind cam but for a 86/on roller block, i'm using the pro magnum hydraulic roller lifters but the instructions that came with the lifters quoted 1/2 turn preload, which is how mine are set at, i've also got some valve train noise (not enough to worry about) their site states to set lifters at .002"-.004" preload, (0-1/8 turn preload) i think i'll try setting them at 0-1/8, Gary.
 
#12 ·
Ok I just adjusted the rockers it seemed real easy to do it with the motor off i loosened the the nut and tightened by hand until all pushrod movment was out then went 3/4 turn and set the jam screw.
I went 3/4 turn becouse I always went 1 full turn with the engine running and from what I have read I see anywere from 1/8 turn to a full turn so I said screw it and went 3/4 turn ( I hate noisy valve train )
I am going to install the plugs and valve covers tomarrow and fire it up!
3/4 turn should be ok right:confused:
 
#16 ·
Ok Valve train noise is back with the new quiet pipes it seems to be coming only from the passenger side I re adjusted that side today motor hot I did the intake open adjust exhaust, exhaust
open adjust intake went half turn after no slop still has the noise:mad:

I then said screw it and did it like I always did motor running no change still noisey and I had to clean up a ton of spilled oil:beat:

Idle is quiet just of idle you can hear a slight clater hear and there rev it up its quiet drive it and all is good until you let off the gas then it sings a fricken noisey song sounds like iam driving a ford...
I don't know what to do any thoughts???
 
#17 ·
I didnt want to sound stupid but when I adjusted hydraulics they were good unless something was wrong. I was going to ask why you keep having to adjust hydraulics all the time. I have not done any rollers maybe they are different and you have to adjust them like I have to do my solids. Just a thought :)
 
#20 ·
1) i know most of us probably take this for granted, but you have screw in studs correct?
2) you should (with some limited investigating) be able find out which one/ones are coming loose.
3) my lunati solid flat tappet cam doesn't need this much adjustment...we hit it once or twice a season just because it's easy enough to do. we've only ever had one or two out just a little bit. if it's in fact a hydraulic roller cam and it has in fact been adjusted properly something is wrong. when i had one frequently go out of adjustment (brand x flat tappet hydraulic) it was because 3 lobes were wiped completely and all the others were on their way.
4) i used to adjust the messy way when i had a hydraulic...imho a solid cam is only an issue if you don't like to spend any time doing simple, routine maintenance like changing your oil. consider it spending time bonding with your car...maybe i just miss mine too much :(
 
#22 ·
I have had the valve cover off more times then I like to admit I just cant figure out what this noise is and how to fix it. I have adjusted the rockers many times. the noise is around 1500rpm in nuetral and pretty much all the time when you lift your foot off the gas while driving.. any thoughts???

 
#26 ·
x3 here. I had same problem with my last Nova. Drove me nuts for a week untill a buddy showed me the loose header bolt's. Have U checked your header bolt's? Also run hand under the header's while it's running(Preferably when it first start's up and the header's are still kind of cool:rolleyes:) to see if any air is escaping. I had a blown header gasket that was blown on underneath side of the rear two cylinder's on the passenger side. That I had no idea I had to I ran my hand under them to check for that. Just my two cent's. Hope this help's
 
#28 ·
I have the valve cover off cus I am looking for any loose broken parts.

I will check for a loose header bolt and for air escaping but do you think a header leak wouldn't leak at idle or while reving it up??
I have many header leaks years ago and not one fooled me for a second:rolleyes:
But now I am old deaf,fat,dumb,blind etc.:D
 
#31 ·
Did you notice any rubbing on the inside of those vavlve covers?

How about putting a stethascope to the valve cover? ( or a long screwdriver to your ear)


This is straight from the website:


We have had a few reports from customers installing new lifters and getting a lot of noise from their valve train after the installation. The first thing they should do is find out how much preload is already set into the lifters. If you have Crane adjustable pushrods, we are looking for 3 full turns, or 18 flats, from zero lash. This will be about .120” preload into the lifter. If this hasn’t already been done, than it should be! Now, if the noise is still there, you will have to make sure the oil holes in the lifters are facing each other. The reason for the noise could be because the lifters are being starved for oil and are not able to pump up. The inside lifter has to have the oil hole facing out, and the outside lifter will have to have the oil hole facing in. This should get rid of the noise you are experiencing.


Hope this helps....:awkward:


dan
 
#32 · (Edited)
Had a valve noise problem with my previous car a GTO. I had a complete Comp Cam kit, turned out that the push rods were too long causing the roller rockers to ride on the retainer instead of the valve. I would adjust the valves and as soon as the engine was running it would be noisy. Not enough to cause alarm but annoying. Had to get a push rod measuring tool to get the correct length. The problem also cause lateral stress on the guides.
 
#36 ·
No, the lifters have a check valve.
If you ever took one apart you will see a flat round thin metal plate, this is a check valve.

I have to conclude it's a bad lifter.

It's truly rare!

Big work for a 2.00 part.

Now if your lucky and can get it out threw the head.
they make a lifter pulling tool.

Al
 
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