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How to remove a stuck Cylinder Head from an inline 6

12K views 26 replies 11 participants last post by  Rotorbolt 
#1 ·
I removed all the bolts from the head but it wont budge. I didnt want to pry it off since it could damage the surface area so Ive sprayed PB Blaster around the perimeter and Im waiting for another go at it.

Any tips?
 
#3 ·
Do you have 14 bolts on the floor?

I have had to take a jack handle (Floor jack) stuck it in one of the ports.
And remove ine that was stuck on a old C50 Chevy Bus.
What a pain in the "A" And when it came loose I about took my face off with the handle!

AL
 
#11 ·
Yeah, sanded primed and painted all of what is now black last weekend. Actually forgot to remove some masking tape on the top of the towers:)

Hoping to spruce up and where needed-replace the rusted parts, like the fuel and water pump.

Taking in the head tomorrow to have it redone.
In the meantime Im planning this weekend while the weathers nice to paint some of the removed parts like brackets, power steering pump, fan, AC bracket and even would like to start painting some chevy orange on the motor, valve cover, thermostat, manifolds...:D
 
#15 ·
Thanks. I was originally just going to spruce mine up a little with the engine in the car but the more I looked at it the better I felt it would come out with the engine out of the car. I was lucky enough to have a friend with a cherry picker and engine stand and parents with a huge barn (who were out of town so I could make a big mess without their knowledge!:D)
 
#14 ·
What size engine you have Jimbo? The reason I ask is because if it's a early model six, the the seperate intake/exhaust manifolds and not the (newer 250 with the integral head) and it's a 230 or 250 you might want to look for a cylinder head for a 194 and have that redone. The 194 had smaller combustion chambers and will give you slightly higher compression.
 
#16 ·
hey sgtsteve, happy to say its a 194. Took the head in today should have it back next tues. Im gonna order some vht engine paint and get the chevy orange back on it. Cutting corners with spray paint. The kit to brush paint it ran a little high.
 
#17 ·
I used a POR15 kit that seemed a little pricey, but it worked beautifully. It came with degreaser, metal treatment, POR15 and the Chevy Orange. I liked the idea of brush on paint because I figured it would be less messy if I painted it in the car.
 
#22 ·
Between Exlimey and Rotorbolt Im jealous and inspired. I actually ended up buying the POR 15 kit tonight. Couldnt find vht anywhere local. Think its for the best.

Spent today taking more stuff off the engine. I guess if I want the timing cover painted I need to by a tool to pull off the harmoinic balancer. Always something.
Thanks for the tip on the sponge brushing!
 
#25 ·
Purelator, or NAPA Gold, but I would really recommend a motorcraft. Ive seen cut aways of all of them and the motorcraft is without a doubt the best of the bunch. (besides the K&N which is $12) The core of the fram is made of cardboard:yes: bad.
 
#26 ·
Thanks for the info, also I have a question about a part on the engine.
I think its a ground or something but wanted to be sure.
Its located toward the back of the engine on the passenger side.
Bout the size of the cig lighter with a slotted wire connector.
Is this something to replace along with all the other stuff Ive been taking off?
 
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