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Installing New Painless Wiring Harness Questions

7K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  tnblkc230wz 
#1 ·
I got the Universal Muscle Car 18 circuit Harness and while the instructions are pretty good so far there are a couple of things I have run into so far that I need help with.

1) First is the dash. I got a Covan dash with new Auto Meter gauges but I am wondering what to use now for my turn signal indicators and headlight bright indicator. Since the Covan dash doesnt have these built in what has everyone else used? I was thinking something like these:



Description: LED Mini Light Green - 12 volt mini indicator light with 6" wire leads for easy installation. Black bezel mounts into 5/16" hole. Green Color.

They also sell red and blue lights. I was going to order a couple of green ones for turn signals and the blue for the bright indicator.

2) I want to change out the floor mounted dimmer switch. I installed kick panels with speakers molded in and they block the dimmer switch so I would like to put something in the new dash. Has anyone used a different switch for their dimmer switch? Can I use just any on/off switch or does it have to be specific to a dimmer switch? This is the type of thing I would like to use if it would work:



3) Neutral Safety Switch - So the car was originally a column shift and the owner who switched to a floor shift left the wiring hooked to the column. I would like to wire it up properly since I am re-doing the wiring but I have no experience with how these switches work. How would I go about changing the switch from column shift over to the floor shift TH350? If it matters it has a B&M Ratchet shifter.

Anyone who can provide any help is greatly appreciated. This is my first wiring project and so I am learning as I go. Its a slow process as I am teaching myself as I install everything. I have the tail section done and am currently working on dash section as you can tell from my questions thus far. Engine section comes after you guys help me with the above :D
 
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#2 ·
I plan on using the Painless 5/16 LEDs on my dash too. Just make sure the light for the altenator has a resistor on it. Otherwise it will not create the proper resistance to properly work the alt. The Painless LED draws 1.4 watts which is half of what a bulb draws, but I'm hoping it is enough.

You can use a two pole switch for the dimmer if you want. Just make sure it can handle at least 10 amps. If you are using relays for your headlights, then the switch can be much smaller.

The neutral safety switch for a manual is actually a switch attached to the clutch peddle.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Got a couple of questions regarding your response if you dont mind as I am new to all this electrical so I usually require the dummy explanation :)

I plan on using the Painless 5/16 LEDs on my dash too. Just make sure the light for the altenator has a resistor on it. Otherwise it will not create the proper resistance to properly work the alt. The Painless LED draws 1.4 watts which is half of what a bulb draws, but I'm hoping it is enough.
The light for the altenator? Are you talking about the power wire to the bulb or are you talking about some kind of indicator light for the alternator itself?

You can use a two pole switch for the dimmer if you want. Just make sure it can handle at least 10 amps. If you are using relays for your headlights, then the switch can be much smaller.
What is a two pole switch? When I search for that all I get is home light switches

The neutral safety switch for a manual is actually a switch attached to the clutch peddle.
I actually have a TH350 trans but I was able to find some information online regarding it and found a Painless switch that I think I could use to make things work the way they should. Here is the set:



However, this is the installation pics for the switch and it seems to me that the switch will only work for one or the either; neutral safety OR backup. If I had to choose I would prefer my reverse lights to work over the car having to be in park/neutral to start but I would like both. Am I understanding the diagram correctly?



Creek said:
i'm doing something very similar. where are those LED's from?
I think you can get the LED's from quite a few places but I planned on ordering them from Hot Rod Wires since they have multiple other items I wanted to order from them and their prices seem pretty reasonable. Here is the link

And thanks for the diagram but my manual that came with the harness has that exact diagram in it. It is a really well put together manual aside from a couple of different things missing such as the wiper switch. I cant seem to find the wiring layout for that and a couple of other things
 
#6 ·
I should have asked what type of altenator you have. Most of the altenators require a circuit with a small amount of resistance to turn the altenator on. The bulb can serve as your resistor if it is large enough. Most LEDs require an in-line resistor to create enough resistance. The factory runs the idiot light in parallel with with a resistor wire circuit to activate the altenator. If you don't have enough resistance, it will ruin your altenator over time.

The CS series altenators can be activated with a full 12 volts or a circuit with a resistor depending on which wires you use to connect it.

I miss-typed the type of switch you need. It is a single pole double throw or SPDT switch, prefferably in an ON-ON configuration. A DPDT would work, but you would only use one input. They make rocker, push button and toggle switches in an ON-ON configuration. Avoid the ON-OFF-ON switch as your lights will turn off when you switch from High to low. You stock dimmer is a push button ON-ON switch.
 
#8 ·
I recently redid my dash. I used Radio Shack LEDs and wired in a circuit for the alternator using an LED, resistor and diode also. Inexpensive parts. See my DASH write up.

The dimmer can be switched to the right style toggle. (Single pole, double throw?) Just make sure the switch is rated to handle the current.
The diode is a good idea. It will ensure the engine shuts off when the key is turned off.
 
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