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How streetable is a solid lift cam?

35K views 46 replies 16 participants last post by  levisnteeshirt 
#1 ·
Just what the title says. A friend has built a pretty good combo using a solid lift Isky. I will have the exact numbers later but it's around a 570 lift. My car might put in 200 miles every 2 months when I get it finished.
 
#2 ·
How streetable is a solid lifter cam????.... hummm.. every MOPAR slat six had one.. all the fulie corvettes had one... every LS6, L72, L88, LT1, Z28, 413, 426 max wedge, 351cj, boss 302, boss 429, 427 high riser, 429 scj, almost all over head cammed engines....

I also run a solid cam sporting 608/615 lift.. 5.5 years running over 6000 miles... and only 4 adjustments needed...and none in the last year....

so is it street able??? well, vacuum for power brakes is or can be a problem with long duration cams.

it all depends on what level of discomfort your willing to live with to obtain the level of performance you desire...


Good luck veno
 
#14 ·
Just read my signature.

I ran a .625 lift and never had an issue. I had stud girdles, nothing ever loosened up.
ABSOLUTELY!!:yes:

My buddy has those to. Streetable would be defind as being able to drive at least 200 miles in a day with out having to retune when you get home, can run on pump gas 93 octane. I just don't want to spend more time adjusting the valve lash than I do driving it. I like his set-up because it was pretty straight foward and easy to build. Had cast iron heads (number unknown 202 valves), 355 ci, Edelbrock intake, 750 DP, solid lift cam and was pretty bad. I 'll have to talk to him to get the specifics but he degreed it in to a 106 lobe seperation and was running 3:42 gears, and around a 3000 stall.
He may have degreed it in to a 106 intake centerline but the lobe separation angle is ground into the cam. In other words, You can move the cam, but you can't move the lobes on the cam.:no: No need to re-tune after a drive, just initially to get it right.;)

Solid flat-tappet lifters are definitely "streetable" but they are higher maintenance than hydraulics. You will have to remove your valve covers and do the valve lash adjustment ritual occasionally. How often depends on how radical you go and whether you use quality valvetrain components like roller rockers.

Solid lifters were all I ran for years. My 70 Chevelle SS 396 came stock from the factory with them plus I ran a bunch of different solid cams on the street in my Novas. They're "old school". With stamped steel rockers adjustment becomes a frequent necessity.

Hydraulic cams and lifters have come a long way since the 60s and 70s though. I probably wouldn't run a solid flat-tappet on the street now days. There's not as much of a performance advantage now days and I definitely wouldn't run over .600 lift with a solid flat-tappet in a small block on the street. The most wear occurs during start-up and the higher the lift and spring pressure, the higher the wear.

I now run solid roller cams in all my performance engines. No flat-tappet can hold a candle against a solid roller cam for either performance or reliability.;)
I beg to differ there. There's a TON of solid rollers out there with lazier (or slower ramps) than some of the newer designed asymmetrical solid flat tappet cams Harold's been designing as of late. And as for the reliability...As long as the proper oil is used for the solid flat tappet, they'll last forever!!! You'll NEVER say that about a solid roller!!:no: And when the rollers give out in the roller lifter the trash usually takes out the rest of the motor as well unless you're lucky enough to catch it soon enough..

Just FYI, all of your Honda V-Tec's are solid flat tappet (follower) cams!! :yes: They've been around for a while and have clocked how many miles??:rolleyes:
 
#7 ·
My buddy has those to. Streetable would be defind as being able to drive at least 200 miles in a day with out having to retune when you get home, can run on pump gas 93 octane. I just don't want to spend more time adjusting the valve lash than I do driving it. I like his set-up because it was pretty straight foward and easy to build. Had cast iron heads (number unknown 202 valves), 355 ci, Edelbrock intake, 750 DP, solid lift cam and was pretty bad. I 'll have to talk to him to get the specifics but he degreed it in to a 106 lobe seperation and was running 3:42 gears, and around a 3000 stall.
 
#8 ·
I run a 383 with a 572-576 lift solid cam. I have stud girdles and I can go all summer long with no valve adjustments. I run the valves in April or May and then I check them in October. Never had to do them in between. I drive the car more than your planning so I would think you should have no problems. Good Luck! Burt.
 
#9 ·
Solid flat-tappet lifters are definitely "streetable" but they are higher maintenance than hydraulics. You will have to remove your valve covers and do the valve lash adjustment ritual occasionally. How often depends on how radical you go and whether you use quality valvetrain components like roller rockers.

Solid lifters were all I ran for years. My 70 Chevelle SS 396 came stock from the factory with them plus I ran a bunch of different solid cams on the street in my Novas. They're "old school". With stamped steel rockers adjustment becomes a frequent necessity.

Hydraulic cams and lifters have come a long way since the 60s and 70s though. I probably wouldn't run a solid flat-tappet on the street now days. There's not as much of a performance advantage now days and I definitely wouldn't run over .600 lift with a solid flat-tappet in a small block on the street. The most wear occurs during start-up and the higher the lift and spring pressure, the higher the wear.

I now run solid roller cams in all my performance engines. No flat-tappet can hold a candle against a solid roller cam for either performance or reliability.;)
 
#12 ·
Yeh i agree just purchased a Solid roller Lunati for my 48 its 243-249 @.050 with .580 plus inch lift only power is brakes and plan on running a vacum canisiter so yeh no problem if its a pretty big stick yo umay want to run a vacum canister, plus you will love the way the solids sound and the broad power range from them go for it you will love them.
 
#13 ·
I do have power brakes and power steering I'm prepared to run a canister thats no big deal to me. I'm going to get up with the guy on the specs and may find that there's a better grind in the same area as his. This was about 5 years ago but it ran in the mid to high 6's in the 1/8 on motor in a 68 Camaro and he drove it to the track (about 45 miles round trip). It was a nice car I think it's in CA now.:rolleyes: Just trying to get a plan together so I can start accumilating parts. The heads and intake I think will be a Vortec/Edelbrock combo sold buy Dickey Scoggins everything you need for $1089.00 holds up to a 570 lift I think. Can you run a gurdle on Vortec heads or would I be better to get some Iron Eagles? Carb will be a tried and try Holley 750. All in all it should be a pretty simple build. Still unsure on the tranny I have a good 350 turbo and a buildable 700r or 4L60E it was free how do you tell the difference? But all I need for the Turbo is a stall. (until it blows) What do yall guys think? Love to through ideals around.
 
#15 ·
Didn't know the Honda deal I guess there's more flat tapets out there than I thought. And yes he did degree it in, I should have worded that differently. Actual lobe sep was around 110 I think. I'm going to give him a call sometime today I find out just what size cam it was. They may not even make his cam any more? Nobodies commintted on the head choices yet.
 
#18 ·
That sounds more like it.
As for the heads. There's nothing wrong with the package you're talking about but until we see what the cam specs are it's hard to say one way or the other.

I have done a bunch of marine BBC's with solid rollers. Boats see sometimes 40 to 100 HOURS a week, a lot of that WOT so you bette have your stuff together. This would last years in a street car!!
I found that the ONLY solid rollers to use were Isky,(especially the Red Line series) and Crower. Some others may be OK now, but 5 years ago, only these two would live. I always used good roller rockers with stud girdles and good springs. This was very long lived and valve adjustments were not too frequent. RPM in the boats for the solid roller motors was usually only about 6500 due to outdrive issues.
The main thing we watched for was a TIGHT valve adjustment. If a valve was even a thousanth too tight-the heads came off and we always found a problem with that valve.
In anything that's going to see "Street" driving, solid rollers won't last. Boats see a totally different load than a car and require a totally different build ideology. Over on the Chevelle board and Speed talk you'll see plenty discussions about solid rollers (lifters) dying left and right from every manufacturer (Crower Hippo, Isky red Zone, Morel, Crane Pro series).. Some blame it on low rpm and lack of splash or sling oiling, some on the excessive spring pressure (normally 225-240#'s on the seat and close to, if not over 700#'s open) that need to be run to control the valves, some on cams with too aggressive ramp speeds, and some on the take-up ramp and claim tighter lash and rev-kits (to keep the valvetrain from crashing the lifter when taking up the lash) will help but still not solve the problem. In all cases, it's the needle bearings and severe axle wear that seems to be their weak spot. And we haven't even started talking about how often the valvesprings will go south and start loosing pressure. :rolleyes:
I'm not saying solid rollers don't have their place. Just that their ACTUAL service life should be a major consideration when making that choice. :devil:
 
#16 ·
I have done a bunch of marine BBC's with solid rollers. Boats see sometimes 40 to 100 HOURS a week, a lot of that WOT so you bette have your stuff together. This would last years in a street car!!
I found that the ONLY solid rollers to use were Isky,(especially the Red Line series) and Crower. Some others may be OK now, but 5 years ago, only these two would live. I always used good roller rockers with stud girdles and good springs. This was very long lived and valve adjustments were not too frequent. RPM in the boats for the solid roller motors was usually only about 6500 due to outdrive issues.
The main thing we watched for was a TIGHT valve adjustment. If a valve was even a thousanth too tight-the heads came off and we always found a problem with that valve.
 
#17 ·
Got the cam specs but can't figure out how to post a PDF. So maybe this will help the part # is 201135 it's an Isky cam. valve lift is .525" the lobe center is 108 deg. with 72 deg. overlap checked at .020 valve lash .016 hot and .018 cold. Go to Isky and look it up it's grind # Z-35. It says it's a specal order cam?
 
#21 ·
with the 108 LC it will have the race car chop at idle...

525 lift is very streetable... there is a lift limit on vortec heads in stock configuration... around 480 I think.. maybe 450.. guide interference comes into play unless the heads have already been "WORKED" to allow higher lift cams...

as for whether the cam will work with the properties of vortec heads?? it should work great...

veno
 
#22 ·
GREAT!:D Now I'm getting somewhere the head and intake kit is SD8060aag for worked vortec heads, z28 springs good for .550 lift $1069.00 or SD8060arpm for $1029.00. The only difference is one is an RPM Performer and the other is an Airgap. O.K. next thing to consider is I want to keep my factory hood. With the solid lift cam previously mentioned which will be the best choice and will these heads work?
 
#24 ·
O.K. hear it is the tec guy said to go with the higher performance kit good for a .570 lift and I would be good. So thats settled now which intake the Air Gap or the RPM (remember I want to keep the stock hood). $1084.00/ $1009.00. The distibutor will be HEI with an after market coil for now used after market to come later, headers will be what ever I already have. Just need to decide on trans and intake. Bottom end will be pretty stock 355 maybe ARP bolts.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Here is a point that many folks are unaware of......

Most of your Diesel engines have mechanical roller lifters and do not require periodic adjustments. The only time it is suggested is at 100,000 miles.

Therefore if the valves are adjusted correctly and tightened correctly the lash should not change especially if you are running a roller (lifter) set up.

If you are planning to run "Flat" Lifters you will need to make sure you are using the correct oil to avoid a premature lifter failure.

This applies to "Street" not crazy race profiles and spring pressures or blasts above 7000 rpm. If you keep things under 7000 rpm you should enjoy longevity.
 
#27 ·
roller lifter in diesels are new quantity...I dont know when the change over happened.. for 100 years diesels use FT solid cams....

now.. diesels also operate below 3500 rpm, also have very low lift and spring pressures....

the solid roller street cams.. are so gentle, has such slow ramps, and spring pressures lower than the one I run on my solid FT cam....

is not a good comparison...

the discussion on "Speed talk" about lifter axle failure was related to race or aggressive profiles ran on the street....and it was pervasive in that regard...

My ramp acceleration rate on my FT solid cam is a lot faster than 90% of the solid rollers I see posted...
 
#26 ·
the RPM and the RPM air gap are the same measurements... as far as height is concerned....


you will have to use a drop base air cleaner and maybe a 3" element. I doubt a 4" element will fit with out a dimple in the hood..

I run a victor JR intake with a drop base air cleaner and a 3" element
 
#28 ·
I think I have come up with a pretty peppy combo (with everyones help:yes:) This should be how it lands.

Previously mentioned cam (plus vaccum can if needed for power brakes)
Dickey Scoggins head kit- Air Gap
Gurdles, roller rockers, flat tappet lifters
750 Holley DP
3000 stall (Brand unknown open for suggestions)
3:42 Gears
Hei distributor (for now)
350 Turbo (for now)
Headers (what I already have)


In a 72 Nova (shown in avitar) Anybody got a desktop dyno to see what it will do?:devil:
 
#29 ·
My solid rollers very seldom need adjustment. I've also run the same mechanical lifters on the street in a 406 for years with no failures. You can rebuild them too if you want to. I don't drive the car every day but I've put over 30,000 miles on a set of Comp mechanical rollers before with a .575" lift cam used primarily on the street. I eventually spun a rod bearing racing and then replaced the lifters just out of precaution but the old ones still looked very sound.
 
#34 ·
So what times are yall thinking? :confused:Now my build is in jepoardy I'm looking to hit those numbers not to race every weekend.....

It's not a dier need but I REALLY want it to be able to do it. Those numbers are my goal. I've owned a 7.60 car and now I want a 6.80-7.00 car. No juice just motor for me.
 
#35 ·
NORMALLY, a mid-to-high 10 second car requires a bit more motor and hardware than what you're describing. :yes:
Maybe with it stroked to a 383, more cam, gear, converter and better heads. :yes:
The combination of parts you have listed are pretty well matched and should make for a solid bottom 12-to-maybe mid 11 second ride (if everything else is correct and working) with decent street manners.
I figure you're about 100 HP short of hitting your goals unless your car is purpose built (chassis, t-brake, lightened, etc.)...but that's just a little Sniper kit away.:devil:
 
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