Bolt in rear susp which is best

New here and looking for help, I have a 67 2 door and Im building a touring car. I baught an alston IFS but dont know who to go with on the rear alston says they are coming out with one in a fiew months. TCI and Heidts 4 link rear susp. is what im looking at now and i am open for sug. I want something that is going to handle and hook, am i asking to much? I also am wondering if i will be able to get the low stance without cutting into the floor pan? Thanks Guys.

LOL ...... i am in the same boat. I heard from a good source the NEW CA rear kit wont be out till december. I am going to go with the TCI 4 link kit. Seems to have good reviews and no cutting up the car.

Kris,

If you're going to push the car at all I would shy away from most 4 links. I would go with a 3 link or Truckarm setup.

John

Kris,

If you're going to push the car at all I would shy away from most 4 links. I would go with a 3 link or Truckarm setup.

John

Couldn't agree more. You two have purchased one of the top pro-touring front clips, why destroy a good portion of the handling with a drag type rear? The CA pro-touring four bar is available now, there is simply and newer version due out soon but the one available now produces good performance. Truck arm is my favorite but I'll have to build my own.:rolleyes:

You two have purchased one of the top pro-touring front clips, why destroy a good portion of the handling with a drag type rear?

YUP!:yes:

ARG, wanna fill me in on the "composite" TA? I'm curious, what do you have in mind?

John

So you guys feel the air-ride technologys A.K.A current CA triangulated 4 link is better then the TCI 4 link? I saw a magazine artical where the TCI clip out performed everything on a skid pad. I dont remember the exact G's it pulled, but it was more then the others? The price difference is minimal. What will i use for frame supports with the current CA kit? The TCI kit comes with new frame supports. Also its not like i will be road racing ...... this car will be a once or twice a week cruiser. i want it to ran good at the strip, take off ramps and corners like its on rails and not feel stiffer then chit. GIVE ME THE SCOOP.......

So you guys feel the air-ride technologys A.K.A current CA triangulated 4 link is better then the TCI 4 link? I saw a magazine artical where the TCI clip out performed everything on a skid pad. I dont remember the exact G's it pulled, but it was more then the others? The price difference is minimal. What will i use for frame supports with the current CA kit? The TCI kit comes with new frame supports. Also its not like i will be road racing ...... this car will be a once or twice a week cruiser. i want it to ran good at the strip, take off ramps and corners like its on rails and not feel stiffer then chit. GIVE ME THE SCOOP.......

If it's just going to be a cruiser than save your money and just update the leaf spring setup you have. Work with a suspension company like Hotchkiss and have them help you with setting up your spring rates/shock damping for your driving habits. This way they can help set it up so that on the odd day that you decide to push the car it will be able to be there for you.
If you wanna spend the cash and think that you may start pushing the car at all then a truck arm would be my choice. It should be good at all the things you previously listed. Granted, it won't be great at one of them but for what you want to do it should be plenty.
Air-ride is a good choice if you want to be able to park and lay the car on it's frame. It will also be able to do well in the cornering department but for drag I'm not so sure how it will do. Also, it's really expensive and I think you can get the same performance characteristics, if not better, from a truck arm setup that will cost you half as much. You can spend the rest on wheels!

John

YUP!:yes:

ARG, wanna fill me in on the "composite" TA? I'm curious, what do you have in mind?

John

I have found an obscure little company that seems to think a truck arm made from composite is doable. I'm debating whether I'm their best bet as a test pilot for this as I am farther away from their shop than is practical. I'm hopeful we can communicate this project to completion but it may take awhile.:rolleyes: My objective is to have a truck arm capable of bolting to the leaf spring pocket so no cutting on the axle is necessary. The cross bar and panhard bar/locating bar could also be fitted to bolt in and weld if you so chose. Mini tubbing would be up to the user but a 10" wide wheel should be a real possibility with 7" of back space. I'll keep you posted but it's early yet.

Whaduya think?

Whaduya think?

Interesting!

A few questions. If the arms will be bolted to the pockets will this hinder any sort of exhaust going out the back?

The radiuses that are in the design, I would imagine, are for tire clearance. Will the composite be able to handle the loads placed on it in these areas? What shape will the bar be? I-Beam? Round tube? Square tube? What type of composite material are they thinking of using? CF? Kevlar? Will there be a core of differing material with the composite material wrapped around it or will it be of a monocoque design similar to the way they make skis? The design doesn't show it but I would guess to say that you will have spring pockets for an upright shock/spring setup?

I would imagine that the apex of the arms will be supported buy a bracket that goes under the driveshaft. How will the bracket be attached? Will it be bolted directly to the floor? I ask this because it seems like there will be an awful lot of load being directed at this area and if it is bolted to the floor, essentially, the sheetmetal floorpan will be taking all that load. Will there be some sort of support other than the floorpan that the bracket will have? Will the bracket have anywhere where SFC's can be connected to it?

Since, the arms will be set for wider tires I would imagine that you will have to at least mini-tub the car?

John

Thanks for the info but what is the problem with the 4 link does it not handle cornering or what is the disadvantage, :confused: Im not very knoledgeable about this and does the anti roll or sway bar setup help any?

Thanks for the info but what is the problem with the 4 link does it not handle cornering or what is the disadvantage, :confused: Im not very knoledgeable about this and does the anti roll or sway bar setup help any?

Traditional 4 link rear suspensions bind. This is why three links were designed. Four links were originally for straight line driving. rear sway bars are very unforgiving on street cars. The only setback to three links is the encroachment on the rear seat area, otherwise we would all run three link rears. The CA four link not only eliminates the tracking bar but it is very light and reduces bind to a minimum.

The CA four link not only eliminates the tracking bar but it is very light and reduces bind to a minimum.

But not completely.......:(

Even the triangualted 4 bars bind although DSE has developed a triangulated 4 link with a swivel to minimize it even more but, ideally, a 3 link would be optimal as it locates the rear end along with being low in mass unlike the truckarm.

Kris,

If you went with a straight 4 link I'm sure you wouldn't notice the binding issues other than if you are ripping through a corner. You'll notice it when it unloads making the car very unstable. Unstable car+turning = scary

John

What about a ladder bar setup, Im not trying to gat away from the ca setup i am just trying to do some home work and see what options i have. The unloading in a corner is scary. Ive never heard of the truck bars though how do they work or is there a site somewhere that shows it. I also heard that if you run a swaybar in the front and rear the front needs to be larger or the rear will overpower the front and it will unload the front ie cause it to push through the corner?:confused: Is there any truth to this, and at the same time tci is telling me that if i plan on cornering a sway bar in the rear is a must have, who is rite? If this were yours what would you do? I dont have a lot of money to redo so this has to be rite the first time so my ears are wide open. Novanutcase and Agrandowg along with everyone else here seem very knoledgable and after seing novanutcase project and the skill and know how that went into that i am inclined to think you know your $hit!!! steer me in the rite direction.

Let me first say there is nothing like reading a good chassis book. Herb Adams writes one that's easy to understand. Second I can't imagine a chassis with a larger rear sway bar. What it would do is just the opposite of what you described. The front would grip all too well and the rear would swing around and bite you. Typically the stiffer end of the car has the least grip in a corner, The goal is to balance the chassis so if the car pivoted in the middle it would not need to. This way the front having more weight on it would be relatively stiffer than the rear. I would rather have a four link than a ladder bar system. Hot rods to hell has a truck arm for your ride and several members here love theirs. NASCAR Cup cars run a truck arm rear even on the road courses. There is so much more to say but only a good read will get you on your way.:rolleyes::D:D

Here's a pretty good article explaining some of the differences in rears.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0604_rear_suspension_guide/index.html

If you are going to listen to anyone that has posted so far Agrandawg would be the one to listen to! I'm just a student trying to absorb and make sense of all of the kinematics that take place when a suspension loads or unloads. As Agrandawg said, Herb Adams "Chassis Engineering" would be a great place to start. After that Millikens "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" is a great resource but DAMN is it thick! LOL!
Honestly, for you application I would think a Truck Arm would be the best application. It will be really good at everything. Basically, a jack of all trades king of none! It's probably the closest thing to "set it and forget it" but still has the adjustability if you ever decide to drag race your car or try your hand at Auto-Xing! Are there better setups for a specific driving condition? Sure! but for an all around performer a truck arm is hard to beat! Hotrods to Hell has a real nice one although it's not bolt in. You'll have to weld it in but it shouldn't be to hard for whoever is going to do the work.

http://www.hotrodstohell.net/

John

[QUOTE=novanutcase;881320]But not completely.......:(

actually, the 5.15 travel shock limits the roll... I would think that could be considered complete...

Thanks John, But don't sell yourself short. I've read your posts and you're no less a student than anyone. We're all trying to understand what forces act on chassis and tires. I have always liked the truck arm but don't discount the new Chris Alston four link coming out. It being a true bolt on it may be the ticket for those unable or unwilling to weld on their rides.

Thanks guys ill look up the truck arm setup and let you know what i find:D

Ok i looked it up and i am calling monday!!!!!!!! Thanks :bounce:

But not completely.......:(

actually, the 5.15 travel shock limits the roll... I would think that could be considered complete...

True! I think that a lot of us, myself included, are always looking for the best of the best when something, like a triangulated 4 link, will be fine for pretty much everyone since most will never push the setup to it's limits anyways.

So what you are saying is that in your design ,before it goes to bind, the shock travel limit hits before it binds?

Thanks John, But don't sell yourself short. I've read your posts and you're no less a student than anyone. We're all trying to understand what forces act on chassis and tires. I have always liked the truck arm but don't discount the new Chris Alston four link coming out. It being a true bolt on it may be the ticket for those unable or unwilling to weld on their rides.

Just an amateur trying to understand how it all fits together!:o

I can say that I have learned that there is no one "perfect" suspension. They all have their pros and cons. It really depends on how the driver will be applying it. For me, I like to road race so contact patch is king! Whatever suspension setup gets me to that is the "perfect" setup for me!

John

Hey Kris67
Sounds like you want an easy no hassle bolt in. As the guys have said, each style has its advantages. Unless you plan to race to win, either drag or road race, I doudt you will notice the difference on the street untill the cops are chasing you.
Google up 4 link suspensions and start gathering info. You'll come to a conclusion fast.
Good luck Joe :D

Here's my take on rear suspensions:

4 link - Good for drag racing and straight line performance.

3 link = Good for a lot of different types of driving. Bad because you'll lose your backseat if you want a cruiser the kids can ride in. Also, you'll need to learn how to adjust it.

Truckarm - Also good for a lot of different types of driving but the ones available have a lot of unsprung weight due to the mass of the system. also, it's hard ro run exhaust all the way back since the arms get in the way.

Ladder bars - Same as 4 link for the most part.

Leaf springs - Good for a cruiser and/or budget build, if tweeked correctly, can run well in both drag and corner carving! Not quite as good as a truck arm or 3 link but, again if your just cruising it and occasionally push it hard it can work.

John

Got my front susp installed today and it was easy easy easy ca rocks, so im getting closer to be needing rear susp. soon now but i still am undecided all but my rack which ups still cant find calling ca tomarrow.:mad: I plan on driving the car alot and pushing it sometimes. Let me tell you what the drivetrain is going to be and maby that will help you help me, power plant is going to be a 8.5 to 1 350 with a f1 procharger around 600 hp+ depending on how much the car can handle? and a 12 bolt with around a 350 gear ratio. So i need a susp that will plant a 18x10 radial the best all around I will never push the car to its limits prob, because it costs to much to rep. if something goes wrong. it sounds like the 4 link and the 3 link are out of the equation i need a back seat for the kids. The car will be more of a road racing car than drag s handling is a must. So that seems to leave truck arms or triangulated 4 link? Which sounds best???:confused: also is there a market for stock front susp for 67s i have the while thing in great shape.

Got my front susp installed today and it was easy easy easy ca rocks, so im getting closer to be needing rear susp. soon now but i still am undecided all but my rack which ups still cant find calling ca tomarrow.:mad: I plan on driving the car alot and pushing it sometimes. Let me tell you what the drivetrain is going to be and maby that will help you help me, power plant is going to be a 8.5 to 1 350 with a f1 procharger around 600 hp+ depending on how much the car can handle? and a 12 bolt with around a 350 gear ratio. So i need a susp that will plant a 18x10 radial the best all around I will never push the car to its limits prob, because it costs to much to rep. if something goes wrong. it sounds like the 4 link and the 3 link are out of the equation i need a back seat for the kids. The car will be more of a road racing car than drag s handling is a must. So that seems to leave truck arms or triangulated 4 link? Which sounds best???:confused: also is there a market for stock front susp for 67s i have the while thing in great shape.


3DTIM is looking for one. Let him know! If you're going to be putting that much power down your going to need to beef up that rear diff! What do you have planned for that?
Either one will work for the most part although, as I've said before, I like the simplicity of the truck arm. Unless you're going to be under the car setting up the bar positions for whatever type of driving you will be doing the truckarm would be the better choice. It sounds like you want more of a sports car feel to the handling. Is this correct?

John

http://smiliesftw.com/x/hidesbehindsofa.gif

Not to take anything away from anyone's post here, but, don't just stop at Steve's on your way to the perfect Nova.
Just a quick google turned up some info on "bolt in" 4 links:

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/chassis/suspension_steering/0602ch_chevy_2_nova_rear_subframe_install/index.html

http://www.superchevy.com/features/nova/sucs_0827_1970_chevy_nova/index.html

Be sure & check out Air Ride Technologies website & their awesome cars. I think someone mentioned that CA Chassisworks awesome g-bar is the same set up with coil-overs.

Now, that's just the tip of the iceberg. Let your fingers do the walking.

Oh, I almost forgot. Attend every cruise in/car show you can. Look at what people are running & ask a lot of ?'s. People always like to talk about their car.

Traditional 4 link rear suspensions bind. This is why three links were designed. Four links were originally for straight line driving. rear sway bars are very unforgiving on street cars. The only setback to three links is the encroachment on the rear seat area, otherwise we would all run three link rears. The CA four link not only eliminates the tracking bar but it is very light and reduces bind to a minimum.

I have to respectfully disagree with your statement that 4-links bind. If that were the case every Chevelle built would have a binding suspension. Maybe you are thinking of a ladder bar system. They are made for drag racing where the car does not have to turn corners or twist throught driveways. With a 4-link each side has two bars that act like a parallogram so the axle can move up and down without changing the pinion angle. The ends will twist slightly when going through a twisting driveway. That is why urethane bushing are used. They are designed to distort when one wheel moves differently from the other. Heim ends will do the same thing but are very harsh on the street and wear out quickly. I have sold dozens of TCI and Heidt's 4-links and have had no complaints about how they work. I have a TCI 4-link under my 32 Ford roadster that has 60,000 miles on it and it works perfectly.

Plan on a mosier 12 bolt or 9 inch but putting ford parts in a chevy i have a problem with, but i may not have a choice. And your rite NNC i do want that sport car feel is that posible or am i saking to much??? I saw a mustang the other day with a touque arm setup what about something like that? Its very similar to the truck arms isnt it? Going to check out this web site and ill be back.

My mechanical knowledge is not even close to that of some of the guys giving their thoughts on this thread and I'm not even going to pretend that I understand the technological stuff, but I know that when I went to a couple different pro-touring forums and was planning on using a ladder bar set up, everyone told me to avoid if for handling. They all (including guys from Art Morrison, Prodigy Customs, and several other big companies) agreed that ladder bars are used for drag racing and going in a straight line. They all recommended a 3 link or 4 link for handling. The thing I don't understand that Novanutcase is saying, 4 link is for drag racing. Why then are companies like Chris Alston (g-bar) Air Ride Technologies (helped design the g-bar and use the same in their rear airbar suspension), Art Morrison, etc. producing 4 link suspensions and advertising they are for handling. They have then put them in their cars and pushed them to the limits and the cars have handled much better than stock style suspensions. I'm not trying to argue with you Novanutcase....just adding to the debate. The reason I bought my 4-link (g-bar) is because when guys like above say they are good, I figured they knew what they were talking about. Many of pro-touring cars on the forums (which have been built for handling) have 3-link and 4 link suspensions. Many of them also use a good upgrade on the leaf spring set up. JMO

Plan on a mosier 12 bolt or 9 inch but putting ford parts in a chevy i have a problem with, but i may not have a choice. And your rite NNC i do want that sport car feel is that posible or am i saking to much??? I saw a mustang the other day with a touque arm setup what about something like that? Its very similar to the truck arms isnt it? Going to check out this web site and ill be back.

Check out the pro-touring forums: www.lateral-g.net and www.pro-touring.com There are lots of pro-touring guru's there and getting an updated suspension.

Not that Steve's doesn't have several guru's here also, that's why I'm here...to learn from them also. I just find it's good to get several opinions and if you find one that seems to be consistant....that may be your answer.

I think there is a misunderstanding! When I say that a 4 link is good for drag racing I say that with ladder bars in mind. Most of the "4 links" that the guys on Lat-g and PT.com are talking about are triangulated 4 links which are better but still have some bind in them. Of course, now the question becomes does that bind come before or after you hit the shock travel limit as Mike Weddle showed me on Chassisworks 4 link. Usually where it binds is towards the end of the travel of the system and to do this you need to really be pushing the car. Also, I'm talking more in terms of having to adjust and readjust the bars to tailor the performance. Most guys don't really have the knowledge nor will they need to adjust it to specific driving conditions. Kris sounded like he wanted a "set it and forget it" type of rear end and I felt that a truck arm would be the easiest set up that would still give him the performance he was looking for.

John

what is the difference between the new CA rear 4 link and current one?

I think there is a misunderstanding! When I say that a 4 link is good for drag racing I say that with ladder bars in mind. Most of the "4 links" that the guys on Lat-g and PT.com are talking about are triangulated 4 links which are better but still have some bind in them. Of course, now the question becomes does that bind come before or after you hit the shock travel limit as Mike Weddle showed me on Chassisworks 4 link. Usually where it binds is towards the end of the travel of the system and to do this you need to really be pushing the car. Also, I'm talking more in terms of having to adjust and readjust the bars to tailor the performance. Most guys don't really have the knowledge nor will they need to adjust it to specific driving conditions. Kris sounded like he wanted a "set it and forget it" type of rear end and I felt that a truck arm would be the easiest set up that would still give him the performance he was looking for.

John

John I agree with you 100%, most guys will not know how to properly adjust their suspensions and will never push their cars to the limits of the products they are using. I agree and thanks for clarifying...the triangulated 4-link is the one they are talking about now that you mention it. That's why when they suggested to me that the g-bar was probably one of the best 'bolt in' rear suspensions, I went with it. The original one has no adjustments. You just bolt it in and drive it. I know the newer versions of it you can adjust. With the g-bar, you are also paying a little more money. I ended up paying around $1800 for the airbar suspension (g-bar) and QA1 coilovers. I don't know what a truck suspension would run someone, but I really liked the idea of being able to bolt it it (I know they recommend welding it in also, so it does not make it a true 'bolt in' and I'm not going to debate that one again, I just think it's better safe than sorry and I'm welding mine in).

Kris...if you want a good and easy set up to install that you can just install and leave alone, IMO the G-Bar/Air Bar was very easy to install and can not be adjusted. I haven't driven mine to tell you what it's like, but I've heard nothing bad from the guys who have run them. It also allows some extra clearance for wider tires.

what is the difference between the new CA rear 4 link and current one?

As I understand it, the new one is available in 3 kits. The first one is street friendly with little to no adjustability, it's supposed to be very similar to the current one. The second level has adjustable arms and the third level includes billet arms, designed for racing. Most of the articles/threads I have read show the new design not be available for a while. Here's a link to what the new ones look like: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14654

The original one is a bolt in with no adjustments. You just bolt it in and drive away. Very easy to install. The g-bar and the airbar rear suspension are the same thing. It will work with coil overs or air shocks. If you want to see pics of it, I have some in my build thread.

Hope this helps.

Didn't ART have a 2nd gen test mule that they had the old g-bar/airbar in? If I remember correctly it didn't perform all that well when they debuted it at 2005 GG. A few people told me that some of the guys that worked for ART said that because of the short trackwidth that was the best they could do with it being on airbags. I remember talking to Brent, the owner of ART, and asking him if they had ever published any test numbers from that car as I was interested in their system. He told me it did great but I never really got a straight answer from him as far as real numbers. Having never owned a "bagged" car before I couldn't tell how good or bad their systems are but I do know that the bags are prone to fail as they did in Chris Feslers custom Blazer 20 minutes before he was supposed to run the Auto-X at this years GG.

John

Nice car and thanks for the info who makes the g bar? I think this is what i may be looking for, it looks easy to inst and low matinance. what is the stoch bolt pattern on there cars 5 on 4.5 or 4.75? I ordered my wheels on 4.5, but the front hubs will accept eathor will mosier axles have a dual bolt pattern also? Im not to sete about bags eathor Jason i think ill stick with the coil overs.

The g-Bar with the billet lower control arm is listed in an ad in the new Super Chevy. Is this the "new" g-Bar you guys are talking about?

Check out the Ridetech link:
http://www.ridetech.com/
These guys are at all the big shows. I would definitely talk to them even if you want to run coil-overs.

I hope I'm wrong in detecting a sense of urgency in your posts. Talk to a lot of people face to face before you spend thousands of dollars (rear suspension/differential/wheels & tires specific for your differential width). JMHO.

The g-Bar with the billet lower control arm is listed in an ad in the new Super Chevy. Is this the "new" g-Bar you guys are talking about?

Check out the Ridetech link:
http://www.ridetech.com/
These guys are at all the big shows. I would definitely talk to them even if you want to run coil-overs.

I hope I'm wrong in detecting a sense of urgency in your posts. Talk to a lot of people face to face before you spend thousands of dollars (rear suspension/differential/wheels & tires specific for your differential width). JMHO.


Good Advice! If you really want to get the most for your money start learning about all the different choices you have. The best bang for the buck is the one that is right for you regardless of price.

John

Nice car and thanks for the info who makes the g bar? I think this is what i may be looking for, it looks easy to inst and low matinance. what is the stoch bolt pattern on there cars 5 on 4.5 or 4.75? I ordered my wheels on 4.5, but the front hubs will accept eathor will mosier axles have a dual bolt pattern also? Im not to sete about bags eathor Jason i think ill stick with the coil overs.

Kris, Chris Alston makes the G-Bar. Air Ride Technologies makes the airbar rear suspension. This is the one that I have. The two companies co-designed the g-bar. Both will fit either coilovers or air bags. I went with coilovers on mine. I didn't find too many positive threads on airbags. A lot of people said it was a rough ride with air bags.

As for your axles, I believe a 4.75" bolt pattern is the common one. I may be wrong though. I'm pretty sure this is the pattern on mine. When you order new axles, just order ones with a 4.5" bolt pattern. They might have a dual pattern if that's what you're looking for.

I also agree that you should ask around and read as much as you can before you decide to make a purchase. There are many options out there. I would highly recommend giving Frank at www.gpsuperstore.com and www.prodigycustoms.com a call. He buys all the different suspension packages and puts them on his cars and then drives them. He has very good knowledge of all the different suspension packages. He may also by able to hook you up with a rear end housing with the g-bar brackets already welded on if that's the route you decide to go. I bought all my rear suspension stuff from him as well as my brake set up.

what is the difference between the new CA rear 4 link and current one?

The main changes are along the the lines of.. different arms choices based on
performance requirements, Ease of install, Structrual support in the car for high HP applications, adjustability of instant center & bar length, & ease of installing an optional rear sway bar.

We will also offer a replacement rear end housing with the brackets already welded on, eliminating the need for U-bolts.

Thanks guys you have been a huge help!!! I have learned enough to know not to rush this decision now, My head hurts from thinking so much lol. Im going to keep looking and learning and if you guys would keep me posted on anything else and ill post what i find and get your input and advice. What about the torque arm setup like the mustang no one answered that question what are the pors and cons there?

...Having never owned a "bagged" car before I couldn't tell how good or bad their systems are but I do know that the bags are prone to fail as they did in Chris Feslers custom Blazer 20 minutes before he was supposed to run the Auto-X at this years GG...

Bags aren't prone to failure unless installed incorrectly or carelessly. I didn't bother looking over the Fesler truck at GG DSM or Columbus, so I can't comment on the installation. In all likelihood, it probably pinched or sliced an airline rather than the air spring itself. I've put thousands of miles on two different bagged B-Bodies ('59 and '92) without a bag failure. I've pinched a line and had a control arm break, but those were purely due to my own fault (installation error); not a failure with the product on its own. Next time you're behind/beside an 18-wheeler, check out what's holding it up and think of how many miles they go w/o problems. ;)

They aren't really something that is ideal for auto-cross type racing, though, simply due to the way they work. The necessary spring rate requires higher air pressures, which in turn, raises the car up; a bit counter productive in an auto-x or road race situation.

As with coil-overs the ride is all dependent upon how the system is set-up; bagged cars can ride rough if a lot of pressure is required to get it to an acceptable drive height, or nice and smooth if set-up "just right".