Minimal machine work and aprox cost to get 355 bottom end together.

[bitterman]

Hi guys,

I picked up a 14010207 350 4-bolt block the other day and wondering the minimal machine work I should do to prep it for the balanced rotating assembly I got from a friend for a very good price.

Money has became a big concern for my project right now and I just want to get it on the road, so I can't do the complete prep on the engine I would like. It need to be boarded as the pistons are 30 over slugs and the block is standard boar.

Typically I would do everything on the block, hot tanked, magnfluxed, line bored/honed, zero deck the block, I normally even have them check the lifter boars and hone them just in case.... etc. All in all I figure about $1000 for machine work with zero decking the block and them fitting the rings. Just trying to save some $$$, and I never do just part of the job, but this time thinking about it.

I want to replace the main hardware with arp bolts, does this mean I have should line boar it? I normally do it just to be safe anyways... since the block is an unknown..... and torquing the caps with different bolts can/will distort the caps slightly different and result in potential problems.

Should I be able to get away without decking the block? Or should I just bit the bullet and do everything now so I know I have a good foundation now for the future?

Thanks,
Bruce

[novaboy009]

You don't have to deck it if the surface is reasonably straight. Use a shim gasket (.015-.018 thickness) and you'll still get good quench. You don't need to line hone unless you're using ARP studs. The main bolts are fine in a stock block. I'd still get it fluxed, washed, new freeze plugs and cam bearings. The rest you can do yourself.

Kev

[novaboy009]

By the way, my machine work was about $500 for the basic work I listed above.

Kev

[stock z/28]

I would be kind of carefull in using a typical steel shim gasket on blocks that were used after 76 without carefull inspection of the deck.

If you are using the 207 casting, I think it was mid 80s?, if it came with the light weight heads, that most used it may have had steel shim style head gaskets with a slightly different design than the early gasket. These gaskets (and heads) cause some corrosion on the decks (atleast around here) and can cause a sealing issue when you use a different style shim gasket.

If you dont deck the block, I would match the coolant passage beads with block (if its corroded).

[bitterman]

Thanks for the info. I picked up the balanced rotating assembly tonight and a got a sbc Weiand Stealth Intake also. I need new rings and bearings (as expected), but everything looks very good.

I'm going to see If I can do a deal with the machine shop for a partial trade to save money for the 427 bbc tall deck I have. I can save some $ and maybe cover the machine work? Especially if some is looking for one to do a 496... the crank is a forged piece also... gota do what you gota do.. was hope to keep it but want to try to get the car on the road this year.

The block is a 80-85 truck block but it looks to be is very good shape. I passed on a 70's block as it was in poor. shape... too bad as I was a high nickle block, but was corroded even in the lifter bores.

I also got given a set of 882 heads he took of hi old engine before he went aluminum .... they even have dual vale pring on them and were ported and the bowls were blead... will getthe engine running, but not be the most perfomance.

Bruce