10 bolt carrier removal? [Archive] - Chevy Nova Forum

: 10 bolt carrier removal?


Greg_R_63
29th-March-2008, 01:25 PM
I am doing the teardown for the rebuild on my rear end. It is a stock 3.08 open 8.2 in 10 bolt from a 64 Nova.

I pulled the cover, the carrier pin, removed the axles, and the main caps, and the smaller gears from the carrier.

The carrier now seems to be held in just by the bearings, but very tightly. Is there a method to remove it, besides just prying on it, or have I missed something?

wskaiser
29th-March-2008, 01:33 PM
Just pop it out with a pry bar.

Greg_R_63
29th-March-2008, 01:35 PM
Thanks. Didn't want to crank on it without knowing. :thumbsup:

ddoyel
29th-March-2008, 02:19 PM
I used the pry bar on one side on one of the ring gear bolts and then on one of the small depressions on the carrier (this allowed more control and leverage) . Little bits at a time to get it out even.

Nova_Guy
29th-March-2008, 02:27 PM
The carrier has a couple thousands preload on the bearings by using shims. I would recommend putting the caps back on with some slack to catch the carrier. The carrier has a tendency to pop out and if your are not careful it will land on the ground or on your head.

novamike
29th-March-2008, 03:06 PM
The carrier has a couple thousands preload on the bearings by using shims. I would recommend putting the caps back on with some slack to catch the carrier. The carrier has a tendency to pop out and if your are not careful it will land on the ground or on your head.

I'd guess that would make him a real "gear head"!
Mike

Greg_R_63
29th-March-2008, 07:00 PM
I'm having a hard time getting leverage on it. It's off the car, on 3 jackstands. If I had any idea of needing that much leverage to get the carrier out, I would have done it on the car. Haven't budged it. Feels like you could drive it down the road with no caps.

ddoyel
29th-March-2008, 07:16 PM
they do make a spreader if you cant get it out! Set it on the ground like it sits in the car! Have a buddy hold it and pry in the same direction of the pinion and the housing will help with the leverage force. I like the cap idea!!! Thats why i said slowly. I used an 18" flat multi purpose bar and used the 90 degree curved end not the long slightly curved end. hope any of this help!!!!

Greg_R_63
29th-March-2008, 10:32 PM
Got it! Thanks for all the suggestions, as always. I have a breaker bar, about 1 1/2" round steel tube about 4 ft long, with a curve at one end. I hooked the curved end into the empty carrier. With the rear end on the floor, I was finally able to put enough force on it to pop it out.

Now, anyone have any hints for the pinion nut, and the studs that hold on the brake assemblies? I know those are gonna be great.

Nova_Guy
29th-March-2008, 10:53 PM
On mine I used a big pipe wrench on the yoke and put it against the floor and used a breaker bar on the nut. That way I could use the force against the nut to hold the yoke down.

Ask me how I know the ring andcarrier will land on you if you try to pry it out without the caps holding in. Luckily it landed on the floor and not my head. And the ring gear will chip concrete and not even get a scratch on it.

Greg_R_63
30th-March-2008, 01:37 AM
Got the brakes off! And I only broke one bolt. Those things were rusty, fine threaded, and 45 years old. Bad combination. I don't even think air tools (that I could afford) would have helped with these, except maybe to break them faster.

I flew in the face of danger, and did not put the caps back on while prying on the carrier. It came out smoothly after all that.

I'll have to get a (1 1/4"? 1 1/2"?) socket tomorrow to get the pinion out. Then, if he'll do it, this rear has a date with the powder coat guy.

Pragmatist
30th-March-2008, 01:01 PM
I'll have to get a (1 1/4"? 1 1/2"?) socket tomorrow to get the pinion out. Then, if he'll do it, this rear has a date with the powder coat guy.

Could you let us know what the powdercoat runs? And any pics would be great!

ddoyel
30th-March-2008, 05:04 PM
1 1/4" socket!!!! do you have an inch torque wrench? typically they are 3/8" drive and then you will need a 3/8 - 1/2 adapter for that 1 1/4" socket to check the rotational torque on the pinion nut. It took me about 120 ft lbs of torque to get the 15-20 inch pounds of rotational torque on the pinion.

laguna*s-3
30th-March-2008, 08:11 PM
It's not impossible to reassemble an axle without air tools, but it is alot tougher. You'll also need a new nut, pinion seal and a new crush sleeve at the minimum. Are you also installing new bearings? The back lash should have been checked before carrier removal, but if the pattern is good it will be alright. The backlash specification won't change with new or used bearings, .005"-.009". Reuse the pinion shim. Pinion bearing preload and side bearing preload specifications change with new or used bearings. With new bearings, pinion preload should be 15-25 inch pounds rotational torque(not break away torque), side bearing preload should be 25-35 inch pounds as measured from pinion nut. I don't remember the specifications for used bearings at the moment, I know it's less than the specifications for new bearings. I also recommend assembling the axle before installing it in the car, without air tools you'll need the room to crush the sleve. I'll try to help, if I can.

Greg_R_63
30th-March-2008, 09:54 PM
As usual, you guys are awesome, but I am not tackling a rear end build in my tiny little garage. I am going to at least have it blasted, if not powder coated, then I'm going to gather up all my goodies, and take it to the pros.

ddoyel, you owe me 5 bucks! ;):D It was 1 1/8"

Nova Guy, I owe you a frosty beverage. :beer: Never would have gotten that nut off without the pipe wrench.

Oh yeah, and laguna, to answer your good questions, I got a Timken 'Master' rebuild kit that has the new nut, seal, crush sleeve, shims, marking dye, carrier and pinion bearings and races, ring gear bolts, and probably other stuff I forgot. What it did NOT have was axle bearings and seals, but I PMd Miles/JBimmolate about those.

Now, since nothing can be easy, the pinion is of course rock solid in the yoke. Lacking a punch, I pounded on it with a nut driver and a hammer, and it won't budge. Any tips on this one?

ddoyel
31st-March-2008, 12:01 PM
Mine was 1 1/4"

Greg_R_63
31st-March-2008, 12:04 PM
Maybe the 8.2 is different. I the 3rd gen have 8.5s? Anyway, it's off, now I'm still trying to figure out how to remove that pinion.

ddoyel
31st-March-2008, 12:08 PM
Quote: I don't remember the specifications for used bearings at the moment, I know it's less than the specifications for new bearings. :Quote

Richmond recommends 10-15 for used bearings!

ddoyel
31st-March-2008, 12:18 PM
If it comes out here is my son doing his at a friends garage! He's a rock crawling guy so he's pulled a few diffs apart!

ddoyel
31st-March-2008, 12:26 PM
Maybe the 8.2 is different. I the 3rd gen have 8.5s? Anyway, it's off, now I'm still trying to figure out how to remove that pinion.

????? you got the nut off and the yoke? We drove ours out useing a large brass punch! (brass is soft and absorbes the impact slightly and wont damage the pinion)

Greg_R_63
31st-March-2008, 02:04 PM
I haven't gone all out yet, but I have hit it pretty good with a hammer several times, and it has not moved.

69AKDN
31st-March-2008, 03:02 PM
I haven't gone all out yet, but I have hit it pretty good with a hammer several times, and it has not moved.

If you have no plans for re-using the pinion...get a bigger hammer, forget the brass, hit it.

Greg_R_63
31st-March-2008, 03:46 PM
Ah, that was just the encouragement I needed. After the beating it took, I can't imagine them coming out with a brass mallet, much less falling out. I don't know if these gears are original, but they must be made of sterner stuff.

Now, is there any special kind of slide hammer I need to pull the axle bearings? Or just whatever I can find at the auto parts store?

Does the pinion bearing need to be removed with a press, or can I do it with hand tools?

69AKDN
31st-March-2008, 04:46 PM
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b158/7xnova/72%20Nova/IMG_1177.jpg

There is a special tool ( of course ) however I have heard of guys getting creative and knocking them out from the inside with a large *** punch. Perhaps you can borrow one...
The pinion bearing ( and carrier brgs ) need to be pulled off and pressed on...if you can find an extra pinion brg, grind the inside bore for a slip fit, this way you can set up your pinion depth without having to press on ( fubar brg most likely ) and off another brg if the shim pack is not right.

ddoyel
31st-March-2008, 07:32 PM
[QUOTE=

Now, is there any special kind of slide hammer I need to pull the axle bearings? Or just whatever I can find at the auto parts store?

Does the pinion bearing need to be removed with a press, or can I do it with hand tools?[/QUOTE]

Axle bearings- cheap slide hammer/ rigid copper pipe and large hammer

Pinion bearing- yes needs to be pressed off! Hundreds of pounds of pressure to put one on!! same with carrier bearings!

ALLT4
31st-March-2008, 09:52 PM
Made my own axle end bearing tool, carriage bolt and a little piece of angle iron. Used my gear puller against the axle tube and lickity split, out they came. Takes a little backyard ingenuity but it works.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/gls17/bearingtool.jpg

laguna*s-3
1st-April-2008, 07:15 AM
A 2 arm puller will remove the yoke easily. GM recommends using an air hammer to remove the pinion from the housing, it does less damage to the pinion bearings if they're going to be reused. Recommend you seal the housing well before blasting, or you'll be cleaning for days trying to get all the blast media out. Good Luck.

photoman
1st-April-2008, 08:45 AM
Re: Axle Bearing Removal

I just used a six foot piece of rebar and drove them out from the other side.

Greg_R_63
1st-April-2008, 11:35 AM
A 2 arm puller will remove the yoke easily. GM recommends using an air hammer to remove the pinion from the housing, it does less damage to the pinion bearings if they're going to be reused. Recommend you seal the housing well before blasting, or you'll be cleaning for days trying to get all the blast media out. Good Luck.

The powder coat guy won't blast rear ends, due to the potential for media hanging around and getting into the new bearings and gears. Instead, he takes them to be put into a hot tank, then acid dipped.

Greg_R_63
1st-April-2008, 11:53 AM
Re: Axle Bearing Removal

I just used a six foot piece of rebar and drove them out from the other side.

No problems with scoring the axle tube? Re-bar seems a little skinny.

John65ss
2nd-April-2008, 10:53 AM
Autozone has a free loaner tool that is a three-jaw slide hammer. I used this for my axle bearings and it worked great. The price was right (free)! :yes:

Greg_R_63
2nd-April-2008, 10:57 AM
Turns out that there's a shop about a block away from me, where the owner used to race a 63 Nova. He pulled all the bearings out for free. :D Thanks again for everyone's help. Want to see a pic of the aftermath?