Anyone convert to power brakes on a '66?

I bought a power brake setup awhile back, 9" Booster, master cylinder. I currently have disc/drum setup.

Booster fits nicely, BUT, the master cylinder is twice the size of the one that was on there so it barely clears the inner fender and putting the brake lines on is going to be difficult or look terrible.

Can I re-use the non-power master cylinder?
Do I need a proportioning valve with the power setup?
Can I re-use the proportioning valve that was on there?

OR

Is there a small/compact master cyliner with built in proportioning valve that will free up some room and make it possible to connect the brake lines?

Anyone have pics of thier P/B setup? Any suggestions?

I am not sure how the guy I bought this from thinks its a replacement for non-power brakes on a '66. Bad thing is when I bought it I was ready to get started on it but then things happened and now its 3 months later and the P/B setup is mine to keep.

Help!:confused: Time is ticking closer to the paint shop and I was hoping to get all the engine work done before I scratch up the new paint.

I must be the only one that is trying to put power brakes(non-OEM or CPP) on a '66????:(

Since no one else has an answer I will give it a shot and see if someone else has anything to offer. I did this change on my 67 last year. I think you will have to replace the master with a 1" deep bore non power master. The rod from the brake pedal will not be the correct length other wise . The Proportioning valve will work as long as it was for disc/drum. CPP sells them with the valve left, right or under the master cylinder which would give you room for lines. My guess is the valve you have would be ok. But if you need to move it to the other side I would buy the Classic Performance Products valve with lines for $85. For $149 you can get everything you need to make the change and no guess work involved. Install the master you have and see if the rod is the right length. There should be under 1/4 inch play in the pedal if it is the correct master cylinder.If the master works then you may only need to move the proportioning valve to the right side for clearance. Hope this helps clear up a few things.

Don

http://members.aol.com/hmficgts/deucebooster.jpg

Chevette booster, GM master cylinder, GM prop valve

I think you will have to replace the master with a 1" deep bore non power master. The rod from the brake pedal will not be the correct length other wise . The Proportioning valve will work as long as it was for disc/drum. CPP sells them with the valve left, right or under the master cylinder which would give you room for lines. My guess is the valve you have would be ok. But if you need to move it to the other side I would buy the Classic Performance Products valve with lines for $85. For $149 you can get everything you need to make the change and no guess work involved. Install the master you have and see if the rod is the right length. There should be under 1/4 inch play in the pedal if it is the correct master cylinder.If the master works then you may only need to move the proportioning valve to the right side for clearance. Hope this helps clear up a few things.

Don

So you re-used your non-powered master cylinder? The master cylinder I have has the recessed bore and the power booster kit I bought has 2 different length rods, one of which looks like it would work well. The proportioning valve is for a disc/drum setup so I will need to make a braket for it or purchase one from CPP.

Thanks for the info. After looking at the Chevette P/B setup, I wish I would have gone with that except the boneyards have crushed most of them already.

Thanks to both of you for replying!

Hi Mike,

How do you like your brake combo? Does it stop well? What years of
these parts did you buy? My booster hits the coil pack on my ls1 engine and this looks nice and compact.:yes:
Thanks for the picture and your help
Joe

The setup works very well. The booster is from a Chevette, but you can get 7" boosters from several sources. The m/c is from a late 70's Malibu/Ventura type car, I chose it because it is very narrow and you can get a couple of reservoirs for it depending on whether or not you angle the booster. The prop valve is from a 70's GM midsize car.

I had to put a dimple in the inner fenderwell where the frontmost brakeline is for clearance. A stock 67 with power disk has the same dimple factory. I placed a ballpeen hammer where i wanted the dimple and hit the ballpeen with a small sledge to create a nice clean dent.