Steering rack and Ididit column

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend011.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend008.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend003.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend009.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/halloweenclassic004.jpg Here are some pic of my 67 with a rack that I installed myself. I looked at a lot of front clips but didn't like the price plus I like things to look sorta stock. I relocated the strut rods to the rear with rod ends. The header clearance is wonderful not to mention no steering linkage under the oil pan. On my dad's 63 we slid the Hooker super comp headers up with the most ease of install I have ever witnessed.His car has been on the street this past summer with this kit where as mine has been on the dragstrip for the past 2 summers. I used to wear my front tires out every other season now after 2 seasons they look like new.

For a quick rundown of the thread refer to page 41 thread #615

Thats a sweet front end you got Church. I see you got two posts on the site so let me welcome you to Steve's. How long have you been racing? Billy.

How much modification is involved for that conversion. I would like to do it to my 66

Were did the rack come from. That looks real good. I would love to do that to my car. Can you go into more detail on how you made and set everything up. Maybe a list of the parts needed. Looks real good to me.

Hello and thanks for the welcome. I've been racing since 1989, here in Ohio. As far as the modification I'll do my best to describe what I did. I used the Ididit column it fit like a glove and had a male splined end. I didn't wan't to convert my stock column it just seemed like to much hassle plus the new column was tilt and had all the stock hook ups needed and once I painted it black and put the stock wheel on it looked stock. Now for the rack it is also a chevette rack. I am a tool-maker so I had the ability to make billet rack clamps. It mounts behind the crossmember with 2 steel blocks that are welded in place that locates the clamps and rack. I removed the entire strut rod assy. and fabricated a plate with rod end mounts that bolted to the original steering pivit location on the frame behind the wheels. On the driver side I hade to drill 4 holes in the frame for it's mount. On the lower control arm I drilled a 1/2 inch hole thru one of the extra holes from the original strut rod and then bolted the new strut rod to it. With the new strut rod set up it's almost like having lower a arms. The steering arms were not easy I again machined my own arms for mock up,I have now found stock replacemt arms that will work. There is no bending or twisting they bolt on with a spacer. The steering hooks up with 2 u-joints and a "D" shaft and no extra support bearings.

What size is the rod 1/2" 3/8" and how long. Would you make someone the clamps and how much? There is a good Swamp meet in Louisville in a few weeks so I am going to look for the rods and ends. The rack I will get new. Man you did a good job on it. I realy want to get reed of that drag link. What tie rod ends did you use. " I have now found stock replacemt arms that will work".What car did you use.

Tim, The rod ends I used were 1\2 and I used chromoly tube and tig welded the threaded end on I don't remember right off the actual length however I will measure for you. I have located some rods allready knurled and threaded from a company that sells to the circle track crowd but they use 5\8 rod ends. The problem is the 5\8 with a 1\2 hole are 3x more expensive than the 1\2 by 1\2 hole. As for the billet mounts I can have them made I should have pricing by the end of the week. I was able to make some for my self where I work on my lunch breaks etc. but I can not mass produce for re-sale. I've been working on a local machine shop for a resonable price! The steering arms are a bit of a concern If the length and drop are not correct you will have terrible bump steer. The steering arms that I used come from 65-67 chevelle. Now I'm not a chevelle person so other years may also work. The arms use 1\2 hardware so your spindle will have to be drilled, no big deal a lot of aftermarket disk brakes use 1\2 bolts anyhow.

I found some clamps from ALSTON but I like better. See what you can do and let me know. Here is my E-Mail. jmeredith@logantele.com

Here are pictures of my frontsteer rack & pinion done several years ago. I used a Pinto rack due to it being easy to mount and close to correct pivot points. I fabbed up crossmember out of 1&1/2" square tubing centering rack with inner lower control arm pivot bolts. Front strut rods are also reversed to the rear of car for clearance issues. Steering arms are from Chassis Engineering for front steer Camero R&P conversion. Car drives well although turning radius is a little less than stock. Relocating steering arm tie rod pivot about an inch closer to spindle would help this and also quicken steering slightly. Hope the pictures work.


http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e312/rsmith44/?action=view&current=ChevIIrackfabpictures0202.jpg

Hey Now to all check out the link on my signature, along with chevynuts88. A lot of the information you are looking for is on this Site since June 04. Respectfully, "Bill's" II

Hey Now to all check out the link on my signature, along with chevynuts88. A lot of the information you are looking for is on this Site since June 04. Respectfully, "Bill's" II

Thanks Bill. I have looked at yours and with your info and church's info and see what it will cost to do the job. I may get brave and try to do this job. I sure would like to get reed of the drag-link. The big think right now will be the cost. You guy's have done some great work putting all this info on the site for all of us to get to. And I for one think you and all for doing it.

THANKS A LOT
3DTIM

I’m with you 3Dtim, wonder what the cost would be for this conversion. I have the drag pan with the cutout for the drag link and would love to just use a rear sump pan and get rid of the drag link.

Hey Now. The Chevette Rack with tie rods I have found at Pick-a-Part and other wrecking yards for $40 or less and the caddy tie rod ends for $10, The 74 steering arms were $25. Like I said in my text this is not expensive and it flat out works. You can do this with the stock Chevy II Nova "A" arms and Lower control arms, (which I boxed) or add the CPP lower kit that has the bend for front rack and pinion steering. This is the part that Carl, chevynuts88 did on his. Carl also used a different tie rod end from a Dodge Neon. The tie rod ends for the chevette are not long enough to allow proper toe adjustment with enough strength to be safe. Note that you can adapt either a Chevette power steering rack or the manual rack. The pwr rack is usually on the diesel chevette's. it has a remote oil tank. I personally did not find a need for power, but some will like that part. Respectfully, "Bill's" II

I to would love to do this conversion, I really want to get my car lower but with this stupid rear steer and Mildon oil pan it just won't work, I would be intrested in brackets also.

Did I miss something? Is someone making brackets? I will take some toooo:yes: Leme go back and read:eek:

Hello, yes I am making billet brackets for the chevette rack conversion. I will have pricing and availabilty in a couple of days. One thing to be aware of is that I designed these clamps with the use of chevelle steering arms, If other arms are used you will more than likely end up with terrible bumpsteer and possibly a shorter turning radius. Thanks to everyone for your interst and patience.

... I designed these clamps with the use of chevelle steering arms, If other arms are used you will more than likely end up with terrible bumpsteer and possibly a shorter turning radius...

Anyone have access to both the 65-7 Chevelle arms (67 Church) and 74 arms (Bill'sII) to be able to compare them?

I'm back again, I gathered up some pics of my dad's 63 with the same set up as mine except without the engine in the way .
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend2021.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend2020.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend2019.jpg

The steering shaft and knuckles will just miss the engine mounts and you will only need 2 knuckles. We put hooker super comp headers on from the bottem without unbolting anything nor did we have to alter any tubes they slipped right in with no cussing or blood!

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend2006.jpg

Here is a pic of his car finished if you look closely at the tie rods you will notice that they run very parallel with lower control arms. This is a must if you want proper steering and handling. For any other questions or concerns you can e-mail me at novasteering@aol.com I'll do my best to answer any questions you may have.
Thanks 67church

Looks good to me. Thanks for posting them.

67 church, I just wanted to make sure you were talking about these Hooker Super Comp headers. If so, I think I am going to start looking into this set up right away. Thx again for all the info and pics. I also take it this will work with a standard rear sump pan?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/5-27-07009.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/5-27-07008.jpg

Yes, thanks for the pics. I think this is going to be my next project. I will keep my sixer for a while then try to use this setup with the 2.5 inch corvette manifolds.

KenDog

67 Church,

Very nice brackets.I did this exact rack install 20 years ago on my very first 67 Nova,with some help from a fellow Nova enthusiat.It didnt come out as clean as your install,those brackets sure make a difference.

Let me know when you decide on a price for them,I have a car right now that I might be able to use them on!

John

Nice engine Smitty!! Yes those are exactly what we used. I used them for a couple of years with the stock front end and could not believe the easy access once all the old steering was removed. I will have the brackets available along with any of the other fabricated Items like the rear mounted strut rod set up if need be.Thanks to everyone for you interst.
Church67

Anyone have access to both the 65-7 Chevelle arms (67 Church) and 74 arms (Bill'sII) to be able to compare them?

CPP is currently tooling new replacement steering arms for the 1967-1969 Camaro/1968-1974 Nova, and the 1964-1972 Chevelle steering arms. The Camaro is ½” longer, 5/8” more inboard, and 2-1/2” lower than the Chevelle. These should be shipping in about 8 weeks.

If this kit were to use the Camaro steering arm like the Bill’s II set up, then the CPP Mini-subframe would also work with it.

Danny Nix
CPP

Nice engine Smitty!! Yes those are exactly what we used. I used them for a couple of years with the stock front end and could not believe the easy access once all the old steering was removed. I will have the brackets available along with any of the other fabricated Items like the rear mounted strut rod set up if need be.Thanks to everyone for you interst.
Church67

Thx, Hey Church67, I guess the last major question I have on this rack set up is the steering column. Can I use the stock one and just cut and attach the new knuckles and rods shown in your pics? If so, where do we get those pieces? I know there are a few that have tried the unisteer kit with negative results. One reason being these headers, Pictured above) won’t clear the steering shaft from the column to the rack. I’m sure we all have seen the thread by NOGO and problems he had with the unisteer. That’s it, for now:D. Thx JR

Thx, Hey Church67, I guess the last major question I have on this rack set up is the steering column. Can I use the stock one and just cut and attach the new knuckles and rods shown in your pics? If so, where do we get those pieces? I know there are a few that have tried the unisteer kit with negative results. One reason being these headers, Pictured above) won’t clear the steering shaft from the column to the rack. I’m sure we all have seen the thread by NOGO and problems he had with the unisteer. That’s it, for now:D. Thx JR

You can use the stock steering column, make sure you leave enough of the steering shaft exposed so you can attach the u-joint to it, you can get the shaft and joints you need though Flaming river or summit for that matter

? If you airbag the car can you still use this set-up, or do you have to notch the front clip for the tie-rods?

? If you airbag the car can you still use this set-up, or do you have to notch the front clip for the tie-rods?

I can't honestly answer that for you. I'm not too familiar with the air bag set up. Maybe someone else can help us !

Smittys62, VooDooll was spot on with the steering knuckle info.
Thanks for the help! 67 church

Do you know if this kit will work if the car is lowered? Will lowering the car 2" affect the geometry and therefore the bumpsteer? Also when do you think you will have pricing for this?

Do you know if this kit will work if the car is lowered? Will lowering the car 2" affect the geometry and therefore the bumpsteer? Also when do you think you will have pricing for this?

I will have to measure the clearance from the tie rod to the frame my concern would be clearance when everything compresses. I met with my machine shop today and they tell me they will have a quote tomorrow.

Thank you Chuck

novasteering@aol.com

I will have to measure the clearance from the tie rod to the frame my concern would be clearance when everything compresses. I met with my machine shop today and they tell me they will have a quote tomorrow.

Thank you Chuck

novasteering@aol.com

We appreciate all you are doing I can't wait to do this conversion

We appreciate all you are doing I can't wait to do this conversion

Yes we do. Thanks a lot

I went out to the shop last night and checked on the clearance for those of you who want the lowered look. It looks like you are going to have to notch the outer lip of the frame, when the suspension compresses you will need a little extra clearance. It won't take much the lip is only 1/8 inch at best.

Thanks

Church

novasteering@aol.com

Hello everyone sorry for being so slow on this but I now have the price for the Billet clamps and weld on mounts. We are looking at 285.00 for the set
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend2021.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend011.jpg

You can see in the picture above the welded mounts welded to the
crossmember these locate the clamps and give them a solid piece to
bolt too. In the future if for some reason you take the rack off the
welded mounts are hidden under the lip of the crossmember.

I also have available a rear mounted strut rod assembly using rod ends and two mounts that bolt to the frame where your steering linkage use to bolt up. On the driver side you simply drill four holes
for its mounting plate. Strut rods and brackets with hardware are 170.00. These are not that difficult for anyone with some fabrication
skills but, here they are if you would like to just bolt them on!

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend009.jpg

please email me if you have any other questions.
novasteering@aol.com

Thankyou 67 church

this setup should work with the CCP lower control arms right?

Hey Now. This has already been done. :cool: You have to order the correct lower control arm from CPP. It has a bend that gives clearance for Tie rod Ends and lowered spindles. Respectfully, "Bill's" II :D

this setup should work with the CCP lower control arms right?

Hey Voodo II, I'm sorry to say but with the lower arms that you have it looks like the tie rod end is smack dab in line with the control arm. If you have any other questions or ideas I'll be more than happy to help.

67 Church

novasteering@aol.com

Bump I just want to keep this open a little longer. Thanks

Hey Voodo II, I'm sorry to say but with the lower arms that you have it looks like the tie rod end is smack dab in line with the control arm. If you have any other questions or ideas I'll be more than happy to help.

67 Church

novasteering@aol.com

Bummer deal. I am getting ready to order my CCP uper and lower A arm kit. I guess the stock stuff will have to do.

Bummer deal. I am getting ready to order my CCP uper and lower A arm kit. I guess the stock stuff will have to do.

Smittys62, VodooII, I have spoke with Dan Nix from CPP and we are looking at seeing what would be needed in order for their lower A-arm to be re-routed so that the two would work together. Hopefully something will be figured out soon!

Thanks, 67 Church

Smittys62 had asked about clearance for his hooker super comp headers so here are some pics of the clearance.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/steeringdad005.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/steeringdad008.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/steeringdad006.jpg

both of our cars are fitted with the church rack and pinion 4 wheel disc Aerospace components brakes and Ididit steering column. Dad's 63 uses the heidts 4-link set up with a 12-bolt. My 67 is tubbed with a fabricated chromoly rear with a 12 bolt center drop out. We will have more pics. available soon at http://www.churchboysracing.com
Thanks 67 church

COOL you have a web site now!

Smittys62, VodooII, I have spoke with Dan Nix from CPP and we are looking at seeing what would be needed in order for their lower A-arm to be re-routed so that the two would work together. Hopefully something will be figured out soon!

Thanks, 67 Church

keep in touch

keep in touch

Does this set up allow the use of a sway bar? I could not tell by the pictures, but it looks like the tie rods would interfere. Is it even needed with th set up. Thanks.

Does this set up allow the use of a sway bar? I could not tell by the pictures, but it looks like the tie rods would interfere. Is it even needed with th set up. Thanks.

Escowagon thanks for the question, the answer is yes, however if you lower the car by your coil springs there will end up being an interferance issue with the outer tie rod. The other issue I personally did not like is that the strap that holds the bar and bushing
rubs on the tie rod boot. Now being that this is a rubber bushing you could possibly reshape or bend the strap a little, but I didn't like that idea. I personally don't use it on my car, but I'm only drag racing it for now, however when I drove it on the street I honestly couldn't tell the difference with it on or off. Now my dad's 63 has been on the street without it and says he does'nt miss it either!? There is another option and that is to move the strap forward just in front of the crossmember by doing this you would not be rubbing on the tie rod boot. A small spacer would have to be used to take up the gap that used to be the crossmember, but it is very doable.

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Thanks, 67 Church

One more thing I needed to know. Thanks. I have my Control Arms now just a few more pieces .

Does this set up allow the use of a sway bar? I could not tell by the pictures, but it looks like the tie rods would interfere. Is it even needed with th set up. Thanks.

Here are some pictures of the stock sway bar being located just in front of the crossmember instead of undernieth it. We didn't paint the aluminum spacer yet so that it could easily be seen in the photos.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/HPIM4087.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/HPIM4083.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/HPIM4084.jpg


67 church

www.churchboysracing.com

Any updates on working with CPP? This looks like it would make a great addition to there front end conversion.With the sway bar moved forward it opens up the possibility of a tubular cross member with rack mount built on to it.This would make a complete bolt on conversion.

What would the sway bar spacer cost? Man you do some nice work.

Any updates on working with CPP? This looks like it would make a great addition to there front end conversion.With the sway bar moved forward it opens up the possibility of a tubular cross member with rack mount built on to it.This would make a complete bolt on conversion.

The update on the CPP kit is that they are going to send me a kit to mock up for them I just have not received it yet but, I will keep you posted! I hear you on the tubular crossmember I just don't have everything ironed out yet.
3dTim thanks for the compliment, I will also keep you posted on a price.

Thanks 67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

I just looked at my CPP arms and it looks like the sway bar moving forward will not work.It would require a custom bent sway bar .


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/MVC-002F-4.jpg

Here's an update on the CPP control arms. I drove to Summit Racing yesterday and purchased my own lower kit and installed it to see how things fit up I am going to have to rout the foward arm under the tie rod. Once I am pleased with the fittment I will show some photos and send it out to CPP for Dan Nix and his crew to review the changes. This has already been done for bills II kit, however the arms that fit his kit are routed over the tie rod and will not work with the church boys kit because our rack is mounted higher in the chasis.
CPP will also be reproducing the 64-72 chevelle steering arms that are required for the church boys rack conversion.

Thanks, 67 Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

It seems there are custom modifications needed to make every rack kit I have seen work properly. I wonder if anyone will come up with a true bolt-on kit...








:devil:

Hey Now NOGO. I did send Danny a PM about how to do this, he has not yet responded due to his work load. Respectfully, "Bill's" II

67Church,

What is the turning radius of your setup compared to stock? I'm guessing that it is a little larger based on the rack used.

67Church,

What is the turning radius of your setup compared to stock? I'm guessing that it is a little larger based on the rack used.

I do not have an actual number for an exact turning radius. I can tell you that it is certainly not an issue I have been able to turn as sharp as I have wanted or needed. Most of my sharp turning come from being at the dragstrip turning in and out of the staging lanes where sometimes it gets pretty tight. What I will do is measure the angle of turning from wheels straingt to full left or right on our stock 64 ss which is about to recieve the church boys conversion and post here what the difference is.

Thanks, 67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

67 Church,
Your quick and thorough answers have been a breath of fresh air. Your install seems very clean. I'm watching the outcome of your setup and dealings with CPP with much anticipation. At present, I am readying a second front clip while I am eyeing their (CPP's) control arm kit, a complete disc brake setup and lowered spindles, and some kind of R&P setup, but I want to know that all the pieces work together before purchasing. Your product may end up pulling this all together...I hope. - Ted

http://lh5.google.com/westsail43/R83aenV1GAI/AAAAAAAABTI/yItN_rEsclc/s400/1965%20Nova%20SS%20001.jpg

I do not have the degree of total turn yet but I can tell you that the stock steering with a stock size steering wheel is 4 1/2 turns lock to lock and only 3 1/2 turns lock to lock with the rack and pinion also with a stock size steering wheel. I will have the difference in the two suspensions in degrees soon. I hope that this will help you out for now.

Thanks, 67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

For those of you looking for chevelle steering arms there is a big warehouse of parts somewhere in the midwest with chevelle steering arms in stock the No. is 320-274-8497 ask for ryan. I haven't been out to the shop due to the extra snow and power outages here in northeast Ohio so I have nothing new as of yet on the lower control arms fittment.

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Turning radius on "Bills II" is determined by the length of the steering stops. Approx from gravel on one shoulder of road and you can stay on pavement to turn around.If you shorten the stops any more it will hit when car has wheels off the ground at full turn.

My stops are the finderwell headers. I can not turn around in a 10 acer field.

I got a box today from 67 church and everything looks great. I am one happy boy.:yes::yes:

Thanks a lot.

I have been busy with the CPP lower A Arm alteration. I have re-routed the forward tube to clear the tie rod to work with the church boys rack conversion as soon as I get everything welded completly I will post some photos in the next couple of days.
The snow has began to melt away so I will be able to measure the turning radius for those of you waiting for the dimensions.

Thanks 67 Church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Here are some photos of the altered cpp arms to clear the church boys rack conversion. All that is left now is to send the arms to Danny Nix at CPP for evaluation and implementation of re-tooling for those of you interested in the two kits working together. All ranges of motion have plenty of clearance now.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0206.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0213.jpg

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Very nice Chuck!

This what we have been waiting for. Looks great. This looks like the way that my friend and I are going to go wiht our Novas. We were just wiating to see if CPP would make the arms. Thanks for your time today Chuck and all the info, Greatly aprreciated. Good job.

67Church,

What is the turning radius of your setup compared to stock? I'm guessing that it is a little larger based on the rack used.

I took my measurments starting with the wheels heading strait or zero for this comparison, then turned the wheel all the way to the lock and it turned a total of 26 degrees for the stock set up and on the church boys rack conversion the wheel turned 32 degrees.

On another note I plan to have the altered lower control arm from CPP sent out to them by the end of the week! As I get more info. on the turnaround time I will keep you posted.

Thanks, 67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Just a question. That altered a-arm looks awfull low to the ground. What are the ground to arm measurments.Is that point the lowest on the front end now?

Just a question. That altered a-arm looks awfull low to the ground. What are the ground to arm measurments.Is that point the lowest on the front end now?

Yes the bend is now the lowest point on the front end and it measures just under 6'' at 5 7/8'' it looks lower than it is because of the clearance below the steering arm that is required to clear the tie rod when the suspension is completly dropped and the steering is turned completly left or right. I will measure the ground clearance on the stock steering arm and post those dimensions later today for a comparison. Thank you for your thaughts and questions.

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Yes the bend is now the lowest point on the front end and it measures just under 6'' at 5 7/8'' it looks lower than it is because of the clearance below the steering arm that is required to clear the tie rod when the suspension is completly dropped and the steering is turned completly left or right. I will measure the ground clearance on the stock steering arm and post those dimensions later today for a comparison. Thank you for your thaughts and questions.

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

The stock steering arm sits off the ground at 5 3/4 inches not counting the grease fitting while sitting on a p185/75-14 tire which is 24.9 inches tall. A Mickey Thompson s/r 24 inch tall tire was used to measure the clearance for the cpp arm.

67 church

Looks awesome!!! Now just another question to toss out there. How is this going to work with a slightly lowered car? My Header collectors and oil pan are only 4" off the ground but am wondering if the rack sooner or later will still make contact with the A arm when lowered :confused:? I am just about ready to pull the trigger on this set up. Thx again 67 church for all the hard work regarding this :thumbsup:

Looks awesome!!! Now just another question to toss out there. How is this going to work with a slightly lowered car? My Header collectors and oil pan are only 4" off the ground but am wondering if the rack sooner or later will still make contact with the A arm when lowered :confused:? I am just about ready to pull the trigger on this set up. Thx again 67 church for all the hard work regarding this :thumbsup:

Thank you Smittys62. With the A-arm bolted in place and the spring missing we could easily move the control arms thru their full range of motion and turn the wheel from lock to lock without any contact, there are no issues with interference!

Thanks again,

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

I took my measurments starting with the wheels heading strait or zero for this comparison, then turned the wheel all the way to the lock and it turned a total of 26 degrees for the stock set up and on the church boys rack conversion the wheel turned 32 degrees.

On another note I plan to have the altered lower control arm from CPP sent out to them by the end of the week! As I get more info. on the turnaround time I will keep you posted.

Thanks, 67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

For those of us that already have the cpp set up can we send the lower arm in for this modification?

For those of us that already have the cpp set up can we send the lower arm in for this modification?

Yes, they will work with you on making the changes needed for the church boys rack set up, you will need to talk to them for the full details.

Thanks, 67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Yes, they will work with you on making the changes needed for the church boys rack set up, you will need to talk to them for the full details.

Thanks, 67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Danny Nix are you out there?

I got a box today from 67 church and everything looks great. I am one happy boy.:yes::yes:

Thanks a lot.

Mine should be here next week sometime...cant wait!

Mine should be here next week sometime...cant wait!

Actually John you might have an early Easter gift !!!

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

Things are moving along! I just sent the altered a-arm that fits the church boys rack conversion to Danny Nix at CPP. They should have it by early next week.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0206.jpg

If you have any questions you can email me novasteering@aol.com
or call 330-442-7162

Thanks Chuck

Actually John you might have an early Easter gift !!!

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

67 Church,

I got my parts today.They look great,very nice work!

People....Chruch Boys Racing build a quality part!!!!!!!!

In an effort to always try to make things better I have a different tie rod end to use with the church boys rack conversion this tie rod is longer for more thread engagment and has a better fitting taper that is tight and snug as it should be.(Note: the citation tie rod is not to be used for this conversion.) The new part number is from NAPA.

(Dana) #269-2759 approx. 39.75 ea.

(import) # ES3008R approx. 23.00 ea.

This tie rod fits 35 different Dodge,Chrysler and Plymouth vehicles and is a normal stocked item.

67 church

Well I have most of it got the rack and tie rod ends today. All I like is the two u-joints and the dd-shaft and they are ordered hope will be here by the end of the week.

Rack was $139.19
Tie Rods was $25.15 a piece

Hey 3D Tim. It just dawned on me who you are. We have met before through a mutual friend. I came and seen your nova a good while back. I remember it being very nice! I live in Lewisburg KY. I have a 67 nova project of my own now. I'd love to do this rack conversion. Do you think when yours is complete I could take a look? I'm a little nervous about jumping right in with both feet.
Thanks alot,
Greg

Come on over. If mine goes in as look as I think I will help you with yours. I hope to start on mine very soon. Still waiting on a few parts to come in.

Got to work on mine some today and so far everything is going very nice. I got to put in around 3hr on it and have the steering column out cross member out and cleaned up new mounting tab are welded on and the cross member is panted. Got all the little parts panted to.
Still wanting on some parts u-joints and dd-shaft. Will keep everyone in touch on how it is going. I am very happy with the way it is going so far. All parts look top notch.

So if i just got my upper and lower CPP kit is there a way to trade out the lowers for the ones needed for this rack kit?

So if i just got my upper and lower CPP kit is there a way to trade out the lowers for the ones needed for this rack kit?

Absolutely, if they are still brand new you could exchange them, if they have been mounted or used they will work something out with you on altering the ones you have. Contact CPP (Danny Nix) for the full details. I was informed yesterday that the weld fixtures have been made for the Church boys lower A-arm, next they will concentrate on bending some tubing. Once this is finished they will send a set back to me to double check then I will contact them with the (good) results and they will mass produce the A-arms for inventory. CPP is moving rather quickly as they just received the mock up arm this past Monday!
3DTim you do not mess around! Can't wait to see some pics.

Chuck Church

330-442-7162
http://www.churchboysracing.com

Well today I only got to work on it for an hour. All the old front parts are off and it went very well. The only thing that has been a bear has been drilling the two 1/2" holes broke a bit and drilling the hole was a pane. If you have access to a reamer it would go better but I did get with a 1/2" drill bit. Now all I need is parts. Wish I could work on it more but kids and school.

No work on the frontend today. Waiting on parts just waiting waiting waiting. If the DD-Shaft and U-Joints do not get here Monday I am going to be real pedd off. Did make a nice panel for the fan and headlight relays.

Out with the old
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0796.jpg
Add some Black Pant
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0794.jpg
Should have taken before I panted
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0793.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0792.jpg
A little cleaning and Panting before I get to start putting back in
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0797.jpg
New relay panel forgot to get one relay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0795.jpg

I'm really enjoying looking into this post everyday to see how all the parts and progress are comming together. Couple of questions I have at this point.

1. What are the main advantages of a rack and pinion setup over stock?

2. Are the strut rods from Chruch Boys necessary if I was to use CCP's tubular lower control arms? What is gained by using Church Boys strut rod components?

3. How exactly do you support the aftermarket column at the firewall? Do I need a custom support or will this bolt in?

4. What size u-joints and dd-shaft are required with the Ididit column? I looked for these parts online and it seems that there are numerous combinations of dd-shaft diameters and U-joint sizes. Part #'s would help alot.

All for now. Great work everyone!!

I'm really enjoying looking into this post everyday to see how all the parts and progress are comming together. Couple of questions I have at this point.

1. What are the main advantages of a rack and pinion setup over stock?

2. Are the strut rods from Chruch Boys necessary if I was to use CCP's tubular lower control arms? What is gained by using Church Boys strut rod components?

3. How exactly do you support the aftermarket column at the firewall? Do I need a custom support or will this bolt in?

4. What size u-joints and dd-shaft are required with the Ididit column? I looked for these parts online and it seems that there are numerous combinations of dd-shaft diameters and U-joint sizes. Part #'s would help alot.

All for now. Great work everyone!!

Hello and thanks for the questions.

1. No linkage under the engine, More room for headers, No more custom oil pans, No more terrible bumpsteer, quicker steering and less effort.

2. When using CPP's lower A-arm kit you will not need the strut rod kit as the forward arm will locate the whole set up. The advantage to using the Church boy's strut rod kit is the cost,they are less than half the price, they are very effective by eliminating the rubber bushing in the stock set up for the use of heim joints.

3. For the aftermarket column there is a support bracket that bolts to the firewall on the inside to support the column. You get this when you order the new column.

4. Thru Summit Racing the knuckles and DD shaft part #'s are as follows: 3/4 DD shaft FR1851
3/4-36 spline column joint FR1715DD
5/8-36 spline rack joint RR1722DD

If you have any other questions you can email me at novasteering@aol.com
67 Church
http://churchboysracing.com

3DTim everything is looking good!!!

Chuck,

I got the new bolts and spacers you sent...thanks for everything!

Got put in an hour on mine today. And everything is going very smooth.

An update on the revised lower A-arm from CPP. They should be receiving the first set from the powder coater today or tomorrow and they will send them strait to me to double check fittment. These guys do not mess around !!!

Chuck Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

An update on the revised lower A-arm from CPP. They should be receiving the first set from the powder coater today or tomorrow and they will send them strait to me to double check fittment. These guys do not mess around !!!

Chuck Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

haha chuck,
i see by the clock that you're posting at 3:50 a.m.(at least thats what our time lists).you really are obsessed with looking after your customers.good on ya!
as discussed earlier in the week,i wanna be the first canadian to have this stuff(hope i'm not too late...:D).call or e-mail final pricing and availability when you can.
thanks to all sns members for the excellent questions and a BIG thanks to chuck for his tireless efforts.this couldn't be better timing for me,as i'm still early enough in my build to dryfit,weld and paint any mods that are required without drivetrain in the way.
leftcoast carl.

Up date on mine. IT IS ALL IN. I stayed up most of last night and put it all in and it went in great. No snags at all. One thing I was not sure of was the brake line and it went right in place. All I like is lining the front end up cleaning the front wheel and waxing them. I hope today or tonight to get them back on the car and line the front end up and take it to an alinment shop.
I must say this kit went in great! Everything went as planed and it can be done in one weekend the only thing is the small amount of weld and that could be taking to a shop only the two small tabs.
I am very happy with it.
I will let everyone know how the alinment goes but I do not see any snags in it.

thanks for the update tim!
leftcoast carl.

Up date on mine. IT IS ALL IN. I stayed up most of last night and put it all in and it went in great. No snags at all. One thing I was not sure of was the brake line and it went right in place. All I like is lining the front end up cleaning the front wheel and waxing them. I hope today or tonight to get them back on the car and line the front end up and take it to an alinment shop.
I must say this kit went in great! Everything went as planed and it can be done in one weekend the only thing is the small amount of weld and that could be taking to a shop only the two small tabs.
I am very happy with it.
I will let everyone know how the alinment goes but I do not see any snags in it.

Did you change oil pans? and if you did what pan did you run.

Voodoo II I can not speak for Tim as to what he has but you do not have to use a special oil pan for this converstion. I am using a stefs aluminum pan with an 8 in. Rear sump.

Chuck church

Voodoo II I can not speak for Tim as to what he has but you do not have to use a special oil pan for this converstion. I am using a stefs aluminum pan with an 8 in. Rear sump.

Chuck church

I was just wondering which pan Tim went with, I have the Milidon pan with the hole for the drag link and it's at 8.5 inch's at the rear, I figure you can't run a pan with a kick out right? I'm looking for a pan with the most ground clearance I can find.

You can absolutely run a kickout pan there is nothing in the way, it would have to be pretty exotic not to fit meaning it would have to kick out to the front of the pan for it not to fit. I'm sure Tim will have some pics for us to look at as he is moving right along!

Chuck Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

I hope to get some pic's over the weekend. Have not changed the pan yet. It will be some time before I do. I am trying to get eveything done so I can start driving. The weather is starting to get warmer and I am ready to go for a drive. Got the tilt wheel in and the relay panel on. Just a little wiring and it will all be done. I am going to put a wide pan on with lots of ground clearinc.

I will have to see what the headers will allow, I am running the Hooker super comps and I think there might be clearance issues with a kick out pan.:(

I know what you mean. I am running finder well header. Now you could put a cow under there. I am so happy it all worked as good as it did.

It looks like a normal amount of kick out 1-2 inches will clear my headers.The kick out is only on the starter side of the pan.Look at the pictures in my album the headers should be very close to mine.Are you talking about a T-sump pan hitting the headers?

It looks like a normal amount of kick out 1-2 inches will clear my headers.The kick out is only on the starter side of the pan.Look at the pictures in my album the headers should be very close to mine.Are you talking about a T-sump pan hitting the headers?

Brian I hope your talking to me, I ran a ultra low milodon pa on Denise's motor 7.25 deep at the rear I will have to get those measurements off the internet, I just figured it wouldn't work, you ready to come over and work on my car?:yes:

Hey Dad! Is that the Church Boy's Rack?

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm152/novachuck/DragRacing05011.jpg

A little humor from Dad :D

I have been working with a few companies that make all the extra components that are needed to complete the Church Boys rack conversion so that we can offer the complete kit from steering column to steering arms for those who would like to make one call for the items needed rather than search around for all the components. By the end of this week I will have in stock the entire set up. CPP will be sending the first lower A-arms that work with our kit and I will then double check how they fit, as long as every thing fits proper then CPP will produce them for inventory.

Chuck Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

Thankz for the update Chuck. I do like the idea of a one stop shop for all components. A few weeks ago I got the CPP combo kit but at this point, I'm just gonna sit tight, leave 'em in the box and see how everything pans out. I'm guessing that CPP will "swap" the new arms I have for the "altered" ones I need for the upgrade?

rgb30b, yes hang tight in a few days i will have the final results for you and cpp will absolutly set you up with the proper arms. Just keep yours in the box.

chuck
http://www.churchboysracing

Hey Church, this setup is about the best it gets for us. I to have the CPP setup still in the box and hopping to be able to exchange out for the new lower arms. Now, I have a question that I hope you can help with. I'm running a 4 speed tranny, will the stock Zbar clutch peddle linkage clear the steering shaft that you use with your setup. If you make a one stop shop for the parts needed, what would be a very rough estimate on price range? If you don't want to answer that, thats OK. Just trying to figure out my budget. Thanks again for your commitment to this project. Scott

Scott that's a good question that I can not answer for sure. My first response would be yes as the new steering linkage takes up less room than the stock set up however don't take that answer to the bank just yet. I will check my dad's car as it was a 4-spd also and we converted it to an automatic, I will get back to for sure on the answer. If you already have the lower arms and need every thing else frome the steering arms all the way up to and including the steering column the cost is for parts is around $1200 plus shipping.

Ididit column, wiring harness, column mount, 2 knuckles, DD shaft, rack n pinion, outer tie rod ends, Billet mounts,steering arms and all the hardware needed for the install. Thank you for your questions!

Chuck Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

Yes it will clear the Z-Bar. I just got done doing it. Lots of room.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0852.jpg

Sorry everything is not clean and painted.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0847.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0848.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0851.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0849.jpg
Have not got to drive the car. New kids keeping me in the house. I hope one day next week.

Thanks for the reply fellas. Just one last thing, and I know it's been asked a couple times, do you think height will be an issue. I will not bother with anymore ?'s after this. Again thanks for everything. Scott

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh47/rodhot/P9200039.jpg

You may be a little lower than me but not much.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC09859.jpg

Thanks Tim. By the way, I likes it alot. Very quality worksmanship. Scott

Wow! Tim your car really looks great! I did not realize your car was that low, I like it. Scott I see Tim was the man to ask about the z bar for the shifter linkage, Tim thank you for being so prompt with answering Scott's (Rodhot) question. Scott I would have to direct your lowered questions to Tim. What I can tell you is that the cpp lower A-arm measured 5 7/8" ground clearance with a 24" tire and the stock outer tie rod measured 5 3/4" with a 24.9" tire. Thanks for all your questions.

Chuck Church
330-442-7162
http://www.churchboysracing.com

I hope the Pic's will help everyone.Here is one more shot of the front just so you can see how low it is.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC09854.jpg

3DTim - Looks like your also using the CPP coil over kit in the front. Did you lower the front of yor car only by turning the coil over adjustment or are you using drop spindles? I understand that you can get alot of drop with the coil over setup alone - just wondering.

I agree that a complete one stop shop kit is a fantastic way to purchase all the products at once.

The one item that would put this kit over the top from my point of view would be a powder coated tubular cross member to match the looks of the control arms. If a tubular cross member was to be produced why not include the mouning tabs for the church boys mounts already welded on. I'm a bolt it on and go kinda guy (don't have the best custom fab skills) and I'm sure others would appreciate the looks and ease of a true bolt on. I have no problem welding the tabs don't get me wrong it's just a thought. I for one would be one of many customers to but the cross member I'm sure. It's a matter of time before someone make one, I'd just like to see it work with the church boys rack mounts. Anyone else feel they would like something like what I described?

Stock spindle and you can put it on the ground. I am as low as I can go with the oil pan I have on it now. I was running a little lower but I put a hole in the pan going down the interstate. The cross-member would be sweet! Chuck has put and done a lot on this kit and I for one thank him a lot for all the time he has put into it taking time away from his wife and kids to help all of us with our Nova's.

Keep up the good work
3DTIM

Hey 3D Tim. It just dawned on me who you are. We have met before through a mutual friend. I came and seen your nova a good while back. I remember it being very nice! I live in Lewisburg KY. I have a 67 nova project of my own now. I'd love to do this rack conversion. Do you think when yours is complete I could take a look? I'm a little nervous about jumping right in with both feet.
Thanks alot,
Greg

Come on over and take a look.

Chuck has a tubular crossmember/rack mount in the works on his car.He should have pictures up soon. I agree on the tubular crossmember making the kit a simple bolt in.

The one item that would put this kit over the top from my point of view would be a powder coated tubular cross member to match the looks of the control arms. If a tubular cross member was to be produced why not include the mouning tabs for the church boys mounts already welded on. I'm a bolt it on and go kinda guy (don't have the best custom fab skills) and I'm sure others would appreciate the looks and ease of a true bolt on. I have no problem welding the tabs don't get me wrong it's just a thought. I for one would be one of many customers to but the cross member I'm sure. It's a matter of time before someone make one, I'd just like to see it work with the church boys rack mounts. Anyone else feel they would like something like what I described?

Nova 404 is correct I have been working on a tubular crossmember with the mounts already in place. Yes this would be an absolute bolt in crossmember the nice thing is that if you are still running the stock steering this crossmember will still work for you. I will have photos but I will not post them here untill I satisfied with its fit and function. I agree it would compliment any tubular arms and I will also be finishing these with a powder coated finish. Thank you for your comments and questions!

Chuck Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

Nova 404 is correct I have been working on a tubular crossmember with the mounts already in place. Yes this would be an absolute bolt in crossmember the nice thing is that if you are still running the stock steering this crossmember will still work for you. I will have photos but I will not post them here untill I satisfied with its fit and function. I agree it would compliment any tubular arms and I will also be finishing these with a powder coated finish. Thank you for your comments and questions!

Chuck Church
http://www.churchboysracing.com

What about brake lines, will your new tubular cross member work with the 66-67 front brake line?

What about brake lines, will your new tubular cross member work with the 66-67 front brake line?

VooDooII when I routed my brake lines I ran them across the top of the original crossmember, with it removed and the tubular crossmember in place the brake line sat right on top of the tube. You may have to move your lines a small amount but not enough to have to cut and or replace anything.

Thanks,
Chuck
http://www.churchboysracing.com

I now have the fit and look that we need so here are some photos of the crossmember before powdercoating.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0317.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0320.jpg

Church. Nice work. I didnt realize this cross member was already in the works:yes:

Now how about that Audi Quattro front conversion kit you promissed us:D:D. Let me guess, it's in the works. Joking aside this looks great. This will really compliment the looks of tubular control arms.

Can I get a bare crossmember (i.e. without the rack mounting brackets)??

Hugabear,
This is Chuck Sr. responding. There should be no problem :no:of you purchasing just the crossmember. All you need to do is E-mail your request to novasteering@aol.com for any of the components sold at the Website WWW.churchboysracing. Since the crossmember is the latest product we do not have it posted or a cost just yet. Thanks for your question and JR.will keep all posted on the progress. Thanks for the interest.:D

Sweet, when will you have pricing!:)

Sweet, when will you have pricing!:)

I've been chasing down a tubular engine crossmember for over a year now. Prior to seeing this, having one custom built was the only solution. :yes:

This one definitely goes on my "I want" list.

Well I must say that if you guys are like me yesterday was not soon enough! I am shooting for sometime next week If things happen sooner I will certainly let everyone know. I thank everyone for your patience, questions and comments.

Chuck Church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

I was about to start the installation of your Rack and Pinion kit but may wait now till you get the tubular cross member ready.

Let me know when it is ready.

Ron

Not a problem Ron I will be filling orders for those who have already purchased the kit first.

Thanks,
Chuck

Well we received the new altered arms for the Church Boys rack set up today from CPP. We put them on to double check how they fit and everything looks pretty good. Along with the CPP A-arms we also installed our "new tubular" crossmember with the rack mounts already welden in place These are about a week away from being produced to compliment the rack conversion. Here are a few photos to share with everyone.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0330.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0331.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0338.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0352.jpg

lookin' good chuck!
i enjoyed our conversation earlier today.thanks for the time spent on the phone.i'll call you monday with the steering column choice.
thanks,
leftcoast carl.

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/images/chevy2/



what kinda pricing and can you set it up for different racks

Well we received the new altered arms for the Church Boys rack set up today from CPP. We put them on to double check how they fit and everything looks pretty good. Along with the CPP A-arms we also installed our "new tubular" crossmember with the rack mounts already welden in place These are about a week away from being produced to compliment the rack conversion. Here are a few photos to share with everyone.


Looking good!

Does the factory sway bar work with your tubular crossmember and the cpp arms?

Super nice. I really like the looks of the cross member. I hope to drive mine later today. If the rain will hold off.

what kinda pricing and can you set it up for different racks[/QUOTE]

I won't have pricing till later this week, this particular crossmember is exclusively for the Church Boys rack conversion it will not work for other rack/pinion set ups.

when using the tubular crossmember with CPP's control arms the stock sway bar will not bolt up. I am looking into a custom sway bar for this exact set up ( church boys crossmember and CPP lower a-arms). Now if you are using the rear mounted strut rods and the tubular crossmember I will have something available to mount the sway bar to.

Thanks for you questions and comments!!!

Is that your dads car you have all the cpp stuff bolted to? I like that Green. It all looks real nice and clean the way it all ties together. Sweet.

Did I miss it some where in this thread, can you use a front sump pan with this set-up?

Did I miss it some where in this thread, can you use a front sump pan with this set-up?

My answer is yes and no. Yes it will work but, the center of the rack has a thicker section that sticks out and it makes contact with the face of the pan, with the stock crossmember you would have to persuade the face back a little to clear. If you were to purchace the tubular crossmember I could possibly move the location a very small amount to help the situation. Ultimately I would prefer, on behalf of the engine, that you use a rear sump pan. What every you decide to do we can help you out!

Tim yes that is my dad's car we chose his car for the cpp mock up because he will be driving his on the street and the extra weight up front will not bother anything. I race my car so I like the least amount of weight as possible up front.

I spoke with Danny Nix at CPP this afternoon about the lower control arms for the Church Boys rack conversion and they now have the green light to make the arms. His feeling was that they would be available in about 2 weeks to everyone. He will also post the results as soon as they are ready to be purchased!!!

For those of you who already have the CPP lower control arm and are going to use the Church rack and pinion kit:

CPP will trade new lower control arms for new lower control arms. If the arms have been installed then we would need to charge only enough money to cover our expenses to recondition them to become like new again. If the arms have scratches on the powder coat then we will have to disassemble them, inspect them, strip them to raw steel, powder coat them, reassemble them, and repackage them. The only fees charged are to cover these expenses. CPP’s goal is to help you the customer as much as we can without offering they next guy a lower quality product or loosing money.

Danny Nix
CPP

[QUOTE=DKN;815193]For those of you who already have the CPP lower control arm and are going to use the Church rack and pinion kit:

CPP will trade new lower control arms for new lower control arms. If the arms have been installed then we would need to charge only enough money to cover our expenses to recondition them to become like new again. If the arms have scratches on the powder coat then we will have to disassemble them, inspect them, strip them to raw steel, powder coat them, reassemble them, and repackage them. The only fees charged are to cover these expenses. CPP’s goal is to help you the customer as much as we can without offering they next guy a lower quality product or loosing money.

Danny Nix

I must say that this is great to see CPP work with Chuck and all your customers on this. To me this is the sign of a great bunch of guys. Way to go Danny.

DKN I understand if we already have arms installed we need to purchase the Church arms and then send ours back for inspection .What will be cost to purchace the Church arms to start the process?

DKN I understand if we already have arms installed we need to purchase the Church arms and then send ours back for inspection .What will be cost to purchace the Church arms to start the process?

Man I like your car. If it will stop SNOWING and RAINING I will drive mine and let everyone know what I think. Not that what I think means a lot but I well let all of you know.

DKN I understand if we already have arms installed we need to purchase the Church arms and then send ours back for inspection .What will be cost to purchace the Church arms to start the process?

The cost of the 2 lower control arms is approximately 61% of the total cost for the lower kit. That is about $240. I want to stress that we are not trying to make a profit on this. So you should be credited back most if not all of this once we receive your arms for trade-in.

Please remember that I am not in sales so I can not guarantee that this is the final deal, but it should be very close to the way the trade-in should work.

Danny Nix
CPP

Thanks Danny ,this gives us some idea.We do appreciate all you are doing to make this work for us that already purchased your tubular arms.

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/images/chevy2/



what kinda pricing and can you set it up for different racks

the reason i ask is it looks alot like the trz kit and would like to save some money one way or the other trz kit uses flaming river rack and has the billet steering arms that bolt to the knuckle so i need some pricing for yours to see where i stand on which way to go

The cost of the 2 lower control arms is approximately 61% of the total cost for the lower kit. That is about $240. I want to stress that we are not trying to make a profit on this. So you should be credited back most if not all of this once we receive your arms for trade-in.

Please remember that I am not in sales so I can not guarantee that this is the final deal, but it should be very close to the way the trade-in should work.

Danny Nix
CPP

DKN how much is the whole lower kit complete with these modified arms and also how much is the upper and lower kit with the modded arms and is there a special part# we need didnt know if the sales guys knew what it was.

The cost of the 2 lower control arms is approximately 61% of the total cost for the lower kit. That is about $240. I want to stress that we are not trying to make a profit on this. So you should be credited back most if not all of this once we receive your arms for trade-in.

Please remember that I am not in sales so I can not guarantee that this is the final deal, but it should be very close to the way the trade-in should work.

Danny Nix
CPP

whats the turn around if I was to send you mine now, do you have the modified arms in stock?

Well I got to drive the car and I am one HAPPY camper. Fell the road a little more but not as bad as I thought. The car is a lot more responsive in a very good way. Driving down the road was a lot nicer more like a new car.

yardbird, it does not look like the TRZ set up will work at all with the CPP arms in its current configuration. The TRZ rack is mounted a few inches or so farther forward than the Church rack.It would interfere with the lower A arm bracket.

Did just a little ajustment and all went good. The car drives great. The effort to trun the steering wheel is less. In tight spots much easier to trun the car around. Going down the road the car drives much truer and feals much better more stayble. As of right now I have seen no down side. Guys I think no I know we have a winer here. I am happy with the fitment the workmanship of all the parts. The price is less than some kits I have looked at. I like the ground clearence. I like the looks the way the rack is up out of the way the amount of room you get after removing all the old stuff the new tilt wheel it nice I used the IDIDIT coulmn. I am very happy. It is a kit that most anyone can do it at home over a weekend with hand tools and the tabs could be taken to a shop and welded on with no big deal so this makes this a great kit for us that do not have mechshop to work out of.

Way to go Chuck
From one happy Camper.
Anyone around me is more than welcome to come and look it over. I have a lift and we can get up so you can get a good look.

the reason i ask is it looks alot like the trz kit and would like to save some money one way or the other trz kit uses flaming river rack and has the billet steering arms that bolt to the knuckle so i need some pricing for yours to see where i stand on which way to go

Yardbird if you visit our web site (below) you will see the prices for the non part store items, I do not have the prices for the tubular crossmember just yet I am hopefull that we will have something worked up by tomorrow, sorry for the delay guys we are definately working on it! You should also be able to look at CPP's web site for the mini subframe kit also. Thank you for your questions.

3DTim it sounds like you are ready for some cruising? I'm glad to hear that everything went well, thanks for the compliments! Everyone Tim is only echoing what I have tried to answer and explain how doing this simple conversion really makes a positve difference in how your car can handle and ride.

DKN can u also get these arms without the powder coat i dont want any of it npowder coated

hey church im just curious about if theres any difference between the rack you use and say a flaming river because i notice you use yours on a race car and im in the same boat as this car im building is a stock suspension carthat will potentionally see over the 185 mph mark so im tryin to see if the cheveete rack will be sufficient

Without having another rack in my possesion I can not tell you what the difference is between the two. Sorry for not being able to give you some better answers but if I do not have the answer I don't want to mislead you in any way espesially at speeds over 185!

thanks,

The Church lower control arms are about 2 weeks out. The cost is about the same. I do not expect to see the cost go up. There will be a different part number. I do not have the new number at this time.

The arms come in silver or black powder coat. You can paint over the powder coat and make them any color you want. We are only a couple of miles from the beach, so raw steel parts rust up pretty quick if we let them sit out for even 1 day. When the metal comes in it has a coating that gets burned off during the weld and the parts begin rusting at all of the welds if we do not get them coated quickly.

I think I got all of your questions?

Danny Nix
CPP

We now have the prices for the Church Boys tubular crossmember. The retail price will be $225 with the clamp mounts welded in place and $195 without the clamp mounts. All crossmembers will be powdercoated your choice of glossy black or silver and they come with all the mounting hardware needed. For a short time untill the beginning of May we will discount the price for all Steve's Nova Site members to $195 with or without the mounts welded in place. In a few short days we will have the website updated with prices and more photos. Please note that these prices do not include shipping/handling.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0338.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0331.jpg


We Thank You for your patience!!

Awesome! That looks great next the CPP lowers! :yes:


One question...on the basic cross-member (without the mounting brackets) how much additional oil pan, front sump that is, clearance does that provide over the wider stock cross-member? Looks to be a couple of inches....

Awesome! That looks great next the CPP lowers! :yes:


One question...on the basic cross-member (without the mounting brackets) how much additional oil pan, front sump that is, clearance does that provide over the wider stock cross-member? Looks to be a couple of inches....

You will have an additional 3'' give or take a 1/16" without the mounting brackets and the rack.
When placing orders please give me your SNS log in name so that I can give the members the proper discount as stated earlier.

Thanks

Just so I've got this straight, there's no SNS discount if you DON'T want the clamp mounts welded to the cross member?? :confused:

The price as posted is the same either way.

Just so I've got this straight, there's no SNS discount if you DON'T want the clamp mounts welded to the cross member?? :confused:

The price as posted is the same either way.

Yes it is possible for an extra discount to SNS members who choose to not have the mounts installed. I will honor the price of $180 to any SNS member till the beginning of May. Sorry for the oversight in the interest without the mounts.

How Much Clearance Do You Lose With This Set Up. Does It Mount Lower Than The Powersteering Ram ?My Car Sits Very Low So Ground Clearance Is A Major Concern. Anybody Know? Thanks Mpls66

Yes it is possible for an extra discount to SNS members who choose to not have the mounts installed. I will honor the price of $180 to any SNS member till the beginning of May. Sorry for the oversight in the interest without the mounts.

Awesome, thanks for clearing that up. :yes::) When the feds cough up my "economy fixing rebate" I'll give you a ring.

Yes the bend is now the lowest point on the front end and it measures just under 6'' at 5 7/8'' it looks lower than it is because of the clearance below the steering arm that is required to clear the tie rod when the suspension is completly dropped and the steering is turned completly left or right. I will measure the ground clearance on the stock steering arm and post those dimensions later today for a comparison. Thank you for your thaughts and questions.

67 church

http://www.churchboysracing.com

This will tell you how low it is. Hope this will help you.

How Much Clearance Do You Lose With This Set Up. Does It Mount Lower Than The Powersteering Ram ?My Car Sits Very Low So Ground Clearance Is A Major Concern. Anybody Know? Thanks Mpls66

Just as Tim quoted the control arm is 5 7/8 off the ground and the stock outer tie rod is only 5 3/4 off the ground. Now we also had different size tires, on the stock set up they were one inch taller so to compare apples to apples you would subtract a half an inch from the stock ground clearance and end up with only 5 1/4 total ground clearance!

I'm glad I read the thread before I sent money away for a TCI front clip. Is there a power steering version in the works Chuck, or is the prototype already made! ;)

Do you think there will be clearance for factory exhaust if I went to a lsx motor?

I'm glad I read the thread before I sent money away for a TCI front clip. Is there a power steering version in the works Chuck, or is the prototype already made! ;)

Do you think there will be clearance for factory exhaust if I went to a lsx motor?

No I'm sorry to say I have not explored the powersteering yet, partly because of the ease of steering with the manual rack over the stock steering. If there are lsx motors in 1st gen's with stock steering than there will absolutely be room for the exhaust. Take a look at the photos below they show how the steering shaft is routed just below the motor mounts close to the frame.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend2021.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend2019.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/steeringdad008.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/steeringdad006.jpg

I know this is not an lsx engine but hopefully it will help with what kind of clearance is available.

Thanks,

Makes for lots more room. You could put two dogs and a rabbit up there now. Makes it a lot nicer putting in the z bar to.:yes:

Makes for lots more room. You could put two dogs and a rabbit up there now. Makes it a lot nicer putting in the z bar to.:yes:

"2 dogs and a rabbit",huh....?!?!?
i bet your e.t.'s would be better without the livestock:D ROTFLMAO!!!!!

sorry buddy,but i couldn't resist!!!thanks for leading the way and giving a candid description of the products.i've ordered 2 kits.one for me and one for a customer.
leftcoast carl.

So. when do you think you will have the sway bar ready?:yes:

So. when do you think you will have the sway bar ready?:yes:

When I get a mock up tube bent that will properly fit our application I will send it to Addco and they will produce one for me. I'm sure we are a couple of weeks away from something to show everyone.

Thanks,

Here are a few photos of the New Church Boys tubular crossmember with the CPP lower control arms. We took dad's car to get it lined up so here are some pre alignmemt photos.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/oldcamera003.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/oldcamera002.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/oldcamera001.jpg

Looks so sweeeeeet. I really like the looks of that cross-member.:yes:

That looks really good!! Thanks for the pics, I was curious to see how the CPP lowers looked with a car on the ground (clearance).


Curious to see how the sway bar looks in there too.

That looks so clean, I can,t wait to do mine.:yes:

Hey Chuck, what oil pan is that on your Dad's car? I currently have the Milodon full length drag pan (the one with the whole for the drag link) and would love a new one (that hangs less) once I finally get around to doing the Churchboy / CPP upgrade.... I have the same headers and I think my current oil pan sits about as low as the collectors do right now :eek:. Thx

According to Chuck you can use any oil pan,I asked the same question.

You can run any pan you like. :yes:

I've got a Q?

Tried to check on availability of steering rack using the NAPA part#23-1602 you listed and the rack isn't available through the local NAPA parts house. Seems no one can get it? It is listed but no one can seem to get it through NAPA? Any ideas on this?

Try AutoZone or some local Mom and Pop shops. I got mine from a small shop Gipe. It did take them a week to get it but was no big deal. Mine was $139. Do a little calling around someone will have one. If I can help let me know. One more thing Chuck could get it and send it with the other stuff. I hate to talk for Chuck he may kill me. But that is one way of doing it.

There are two on E-bay right now with a buy it now of $80 each

Item number: 380020106982

There are two on E-bay right now with a buy it now of $80 each

Item number: 380020106982

Did you bid on them?

There are two on E-bay right now with a buy it now of $80 each

Item number: 380020106982

Is that the correct rack?

As for the oil pan question, I understand that the new set up allows the use of any pan. I guess what I am asking is, what is the best pan (shallowest) for ground clearance? I have a 383 stroker. My Milodon drag pan sits only like 4" off the ground :eek: not good for those bumpy roads or speed bumps. Now how to I get all these parts to my house in one package? I think it is time to pull the trigger :yes:
Thx

That is the question of the day,VooDooII is debating that now.There are many pan chioces in the 8 inch depth range and there are some road race type pans in the 7-7 1/2 range.I wish someone would have some input on this.

That is the question of the day,VooDooII is debating that now.There are many pan chioces in the 8 inch depth range and there are some road race type pans in the 7-7 1/2 range.I wish someone would have some input on this.

Maybe church could design one? I want something with the most capacity and the most ground clearance:yes::yes:

Hello everyone sorry for not responding sooner I had to work a little overtime. Smitty's62 my dad is using a stock GM oil pan and I have the stef's but that will not help you it's an 8" sump. I do have a solution for the oil pan... Dry Sump I happen to have one from a late model race car they are pretty expensive so the first one to drive up here can have it for free. Honestly that is not all that practicle but it is an option. As for the rack, 2 weeks ago when I tried to get one thru Napa they were on what they call R&R status meaning repair and return. Like 3DTim stated you can get them from other vendors, I used to work for Napa so I still have an in on some things that is why I had their part no.'s. I will however check again tomorrow to see if anything has changed as far as the part number. Tim is also correct again I can supply a rack for you I have 3 currently available for 187.35 ea. Check around you can obviously find them cheaper. We can set you up from the column down to the steering arms and everything in between.
Thanks everyone for all the compliments and patience.

I have a Chevette rack I need to divest of myself - its new and never installed. I bought it with the steering arms, rod ends, etc to do a Bill'sII conversion - but I am doing something different now. If I'm not correct this is the same Chevette rack? PM me if anyone needs one. -Bob

I've been following this thread for quite a while now, and I'm new to the Chevy II community, but have been eaten alive by this Nova bug!

I was looking for a complete system that was as compatable as possible. I've already got the CPP mini installed, the rack and rod ends came in this morning (O'Reily Autoparts uses the same PN as NAPA) and just placed my order with Church Boys Racing today. Should have some hardware in about a week.

Still undecided about the springs or QA1's..........what would you choose and is there anybody out there with this setup already. I'd like the car a little lower than Church's 63, but don't know how to get there from here. HELP!

I have a Chevette rack I need to divest of myself - its new and never installed. I bought it with the steering arms, rod ends, etc to do a Bill'sII conversion - but I am doing something different now. If I'm not correct this is the same Chevette rack? PM me if anyone needs one. -Bob

----Bob does have the correct rack that will work with the Church Boys conversion, however the steering arms and tie rod ends will not work for our kit.


Still undecided about the springs or QA1's..........what would you choose and is there anybody out there with this setup already. I'd like the car a little lower than Church's 63, but don't know how to get there from here. HELP!

SSDually I switched to the QA1 coil overs so that I could also lower the front a little. I did make my own top plate to eliminate the shock tower and mounted the shock to the stock control arm, they allowed me to adjust things just enough and I also went to a shorter tire. The springs in my dad's car used to be in my car they were purchased for a v-8 station wagon (sorry Long Roofer) the 6 cyl springs let things sag a little more.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC09859.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC09854.jpg
Also I am running the Cevy2Only kit. Witch is a copy of AutoFabs kit.
Bryan@Autofab is on the site. Hope this will help.

I've been following this thread for quite a while now, and I'm new to the Chevy II community, but have been eaten alive by this Nova bug!

I was looking for a complete system that was as compatable as possible. I've already got the CPP mini installed, the rack and rod ends came in this morning (O'Reily Autoparts uses the same PN as NAPA) and just placed my order with Church Boys Racing today. Should have some hardware in about a week.

Still undecided about the springs or QA1's..........what would you choose and is there anybody out there with this setup already. I'd like the car a little lower than Church's 63, but don't know how to get there from here. HELP!

The CPP kit with the QA1 shock is a direct bolt on. There’s no cutting or drilling. Check out the link on the install.
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75922

Hope this helps you make decision.
Danny Nix
CPP

SSDually my car has the CPP coil overs and I highly recomend there kit.Fit an finish very good and ride quality is excellent.My car sits fairly low.Measured from the ground to the front wheel lip at the center of the wheel well(centered on the wheel cap) is 22 5/8, and I could probably only go 1/4 lower. This is with stock height spindles.My car is a 67 so the measurement is only accurate for 66-67. If you need a better measurement I can get frame to ground or front cross member to ground.


DKN
Are the Church lower arms available yet? Is there a special part #?

SSDually my car has the CPP coil overs and I highly recomend there kit.Fit an finish very good and ride quality is excellent.My car sits fairly low.Measured from the ground to the front wheel lip at the center of the wheel well(centered on the wheel cap) is 22 5/8, and I could probably only go 1/4 lower. This is with stock height spindles.My car is a 67 so the measurement is only accurate for 66-67. If you need a better measurement I can get frame to ground or front cross member to ground.


DKN
Are the Church lower arms available yet? Is there a special part #?

I am at 19 3/4" But I am running a very small tire 145-65-15. Hows the hip doing 404.

Oops I forgot to mention that I am using a 24.5 height tire (145SRx15).

Tim, the hip is doing well, I feel good enough to go back to work.But your experiences have made me be a little more carefull.It was Cool chatting on the phone with you last week.

Keep in touch on the hip. They X-RAYED mine last week and I have busted the sockit in mine so looks like I get to go back under the nife again. It is not that bad to have the cup replaced. Just be down a few days. Not that much pain just making me walk funny. My wifes says I walk like John Wayne.

SSDually my car has the CPP coil overs and I highly recomend there kit.Fit an finish very good and ride quality is excellent.My car sits fairly low.Measured from the ground to the front wheel lip at the center of the wheel well(centered on the wheel cap) is 22 5/8, and I could probably only go 1/4 lower. This is with stock height spindles.My car is a 67 so the measurement is only accurate for 66-67. If you need a better measurement I can get frame to ground or front cross member to ground.


DKN
Are the Church lower arms available yet? Is there a special part #?

There will be a special part number. We are finishing the last fixtures. We have 20 sets in process. We are trying to get them ready to send out for powder coat on Monday.

Danny Nix
CPP

I would like to add my thanks publicly to Church 67. Chuck has done a tremendous amount of work on this project and been free with the knowledge. I have a question that I've not seen addressed. How
long of after market steering column works best with this set-up?
Thanks in advance Steve

My IDIDIT is 30"

I would like to add my thanks publicly to Church 67. Chuck has done a tremendous amount of work on this project and been free with the knowledge. I have a question that I've not seen addressed. How
long of after market steering column works best with this set-up?
Thanks in advance Steve

My IDIDIT is 30"


Just as Tim did, my father and I also used the Ididit column and they were also of the tilt fashion. Plycoupe thankyou for the compliment and I might add that your parts will be sent out to you tomorrow!!!

Anyone using the Chevy2Only coil-over kit. I have had one on my car for 2 years and the car just keep get lower. I got intouch with them and they sent me a new set of springs. When I got mine out they were 250lb. They should have been 325lb as the new ones are. So if you are running this kit and your car is getting lower check the springs.

I see everyone else is using the Ididit colum. I received the Flaming River with appropriate U-joints and DD shaft today. Hope to not have any problems with it.

Thanks for all the tips on the QA1 set up from CPP. I think I'll go with that and forgo all the other misc pieces to replace. The pics of the cars are a great help guys. Would still like to see a 62 to 65 dropped on QA1's, but I'll have mine in a few days I suppose. Just impatient and excited.

The guys at CPP recommended the dropped spindle disc brake set up with the "Zero Offset". Any thoughts or input? Like many of you with so little time and so many projects, I Just want to do this once.

Keep up the good work Church67 and DKN. I too would like to publicly thank you for the time you've put in on this project, and for putting out a great product.

I see everyone else is using the Ididit colum. I received the Flaming River with appropriate U-joints and DD shaft today. Hope to not have any problems with it.

Did you go FR because it can be ordered online and the Ididit has to come from a dealer? Anyone on the site an Ididit dealer (I'm allowed to ask that right)? My last column was FR and its great just as I'm sure the Ididit is. -Bob

Did you go FR because it can be ordered online and the Ididit has to come from a dealer? Anyone on the site an Ididit dealer (I'm allowed to ask that right)? My last column was FR and its great just as I'm sure the Ididit is. -Bob

Either column will work just as well as the other. We chose the Ididit because of a problem with Flamming river when I started asking questions. Summit is only 45 min. from where I live and they handle the Ididit as well as the Flamming river so we purchased the Ididit column from them. We can now offer the Ididit column in a complete package with the rest of our Church boys r&p conversion. There is nothing wrong with Flamming River it's just that we used something that worked well for us so that is what we chose to stick with. Thank you for your questions and concerns.

Did you go FR because it can be ordered online and the Ididit has to come from a dealer?

Hey Bob, I own a shop and have installed a FR set up in an early Mustang a while back. I liked the way it turned out and I get a pretty good price on the parts. I suppose it's convenience more than anything.

Hey SS Dually you better get that thing done. You have another one to do when you get yours done. Oh don't forget that the other end of the car also.

Hey SS Dually you better get that thing done. You have another one to do when you get yours done. Oh don't forget that the other end of the car also.

Consider it practice. Cant wait to start on the back half either. The parts are standing by..........Might wait till you are in town again to tackle that one. Don't want you to miss out on too much of this fun.:D

Are there part numbers for the CPP kit yet?

I have 2 sets of arms waiting to go to powdercoat. If you need them call CPP so that my salesman can tell me what color to powdercoat these. I have 22 more sets that will be ready for powdercoat in the morning.

Danny Nix
CPP

Took mine on a long drive today. The new springs ride a lot better. I like driving it a lot more with the rack. I hope to take it to a show this weekend. ONE HAPPY CAMPER!:yes:

Tim It sounds like you finally got some good weather! Glad to hear the new springs worked better for you. Your new Tubular crossmember should be at your front door tomorrow, do you think you will have time to put it on for the car show?

The Church Boys Racing web site has been updated with new picture and packages. We are still working with the SNS members for a better price.
We will be picking up the first of the Silver crossmembers tomorrow, the color match with the CPP arms is very impressive!!!

When the UPS guy gets here I am going to jump on it. Now if the rain will just get out of here in time. I am looking forward to seeing some of the SNS guys there.:yes:

Oh the web page looks GREAT Chuck!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0950.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0951.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0952.jpg
Took me about a hour to take the old off and put the new one on. Fit like a glove. Did have to make the dd shaft 7/8" longer and remove a little on the motor mount to clear the dd shaft. If the rain moves out tonight I am going to take her to a show.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0950.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0951.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0952.jpg
Took me about a hour to take the old off and put the new one on. Fit like a glove. Did have to make the dd shaft 7/8" longer and remove a little on the motor mount to clear the dd shaft. If the rain moves out tonight I am going to take her to a show.

Fram Filter:eek::eek:

Run them for years. I have run the big buck filters and seem to alway end up back with them.

Tim that really looks good, I must say you work faster than anyone I know! Can you travel up to Ohio and help me get mine ready for next weekend?

You could not afford to feed me. That was a piece of cake.

I have had a few questions about using the stock front sump oil pan, so what we are going to do is put our 64SS up on the rack and install a tubular crossmember to see what kind of clearance you might have. We will post the results and photos in the next couple of days.

Thanks again for all your questions,

I have had a few questions about using the stock front sump oil pan, so what we are going to do is put our 64SS up on the rack and install a tubular crossmember to see what kind of clearance you might have. We will post the results and photos in the next couple of days.

GREAT!! That was my plan from the beginning, so I will very interested to see the pics.

Here are the pictures of our 64' with the front sump and tubular crossmember.
There is clearance however the rack has an emboss sticking out from the casting process that has approx. .040" clearance to the pan. This can easily be filed away for more room if you so choose.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/frontsump005.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/frontsump007.jpg

Now in this last picture you will notice that the tubular crossmember is real close to the factory strut rod in fact it is so close that you would not beable to put the car back on the ground with out interferance. When using the Church Boys tubular crossmember it is going to be a must that the CPP lower arms or the complete Church Boys R&P conversion be used. Please contact us if you have any questions.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/frontsump010.jpg

Hey how is the Sway bar for the tubular xmember and the cpp kit :yes:coming?

Looks like the rack really fits up nicely. Could i still use my cpp arms i purchased last year? Can you supply me the price for the entire conversion? or a lst of other components needed to complete job thanks mpls66

Looks like the rack really fits up nicely. Could i still use my cpp arms i purchased last year? Can you supply me the price for the entire conversion? or a lst of other components needed to complete job thanks mpls66

you will need modified CPP lower arms, the arms are now available and there is a trade in value for your old ones.:cool:

Hey how is the Sway bar for the tubular xmember and the cpp kit :yes:coming?

The swaybar is moving rather slow because of the huge response in the tubular crossmembers, has been awesome to say the least, and I have been kept at bay keeping up with the orders. I will get the sway bar fitted and worked out. It looks like I will be back on track with the sway bar in the next day or so.

Looks like the rack really fits up nicely. Could i still use my cpp arms i purchased last year? Can you supply me the price for the entire conversion? or a lst of other components needed to complete job thanks mpls66

Thanks VoodooII that is correct,MPLS66 you will have to exchange your arms for the Church Boys version of lower arms, and yes I can give you a complete price you will have to let me know exactly what you will need, as everyone's complete kit varies from person to person.

Thanks again everyone!!!

This is a awesome setup. Well done Church
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/1BADNOV/IMG_7013.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/1BADNOV/IMG_7005.jpg

This is a awesome setup. Well done Church
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/1BADNOV/IMG_7013.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/1BADNOV/IMG_7005.jpg

Man that thing looks good out in the sunlight.

The swaybar is moving rather slow because of the huge response in the tubular crossmembers, has been awesome to say the least, and I have been kept at bay keeping up with the orders. I will get the sway bar fitted and worked out. It looks like I will be back on track with the sway bar in the next day or so.

I can see why the crossmembers are keeping you busy. Mine showed up last week while I was out of town for business and I got to pop the box open this morning.

I'm not easily impressed anymore, but that crossmember is a slick piece of work....and it looks even better powder coated black! :yes::D This is going to force me to install my CPP kit very soon. Damn you for making me do it! :devil::yes: I'm looking forward to bolting it on the car.

I may need to talk to CPP about swapping my lower arms for the r&p modified ones. I can very easily see the r&p going on my "need" list.

Thanks Mr. Church for making a great product!

Dang it Chuck.. Your killin me with all the positive feedback!!!

I am gettin so close to pullin the trigger on this for the 4door... Sure will make puttin in my 4.3L a heckuva lot easier :yes:

This is a awesome setup. Well done Church
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/1BADNOV/IMG_7013.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/1BADNOV/IMG_7005.jpg

Hey is that blue wagon next to you the one I C up at the top of the site?

I have that same Milodon Drag pan, yikes it sure sits low:eek: I hope to do the complete Church boys upgrade sooon....:yes::D and look into a less deep pan......Anyone have any suggestions? Maybe Chuck has a nice custom rear sump shallow pan for those of us with LOW Novas and his R&P set up. :rolleyes::cool:

Yes it is 1badnov's car.He won "most bitchin paint" at the show yesterday.

Yes it is 1badnov's car.He won "most bitchin paint" at the show yesterday.

Dose it sound as bad as it looks. The rack and a-arms looks good with that oil pan.

Thanks everyone I'm very happy you guys like everything! All of our products for this conversion
wouldn't be on any cars if I wouldn't be proud to put them on my own car, it pleases me to see
that others have the same taste as myself, for those who have not seen my nova it is shown below.
Voodoo that crossmember really looks sweet on the car, it looks as if it could not have been
done any other way!

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/67nova010.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/67nova005.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/67nova015.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/67nova008.jpg

Another man after my Nova heart. I like them sitting a bit higher than the current fad. :yes: Kudos!

Hey is that blue wagon next to you the one I C up at the top of the site?

I have that same Milodon Drag pan, yikes it sure sits low:eek: I hope to do the complete Church boys upgrade sooon....:yes::D and look into a less deep pan......Anyone have any suggestions? Maybe Chuck has a nice custom rear sump shallow pan for those of us with LOW Novas and his R&P set up. :rolleyes::cool:

Don't worry about the pan I have a home grown air ride setup that gives me plenty of ground clearance, but I will change to shorter pan once the conversion is complete this winter, Chuck that cross member makes the front end look complete and the fit was incredible.

Beautiful car Chuck:yes: but if it was mine it would be in the weeds:devil: but then I lowered my 69 Z/28 way back in 1978:cool: thats a 30 year fad for me.:yes:

Don't worry about the pan I have a home grown air ride setup that gives me plenty of ground clearance, but I will change to shorter pan once the conversion is complete this winter, Chuck that cross member makes the front end look complete and the fit was incredible.

That air ride system sounds sweet, the problem is I dont have it and my Milodon Drag pan is as low as yours.... Are you going to put a R&P on that? It looks like you still have the stock steering linkage. Sweet rides you have there.

Chuck, love the color. That thing just looks mean:devil:

That air ride system sounds sweet, the problem is I dont have it and my Milodon Drag pan is as low as yours.... Are you going to put a R&P on that? It looks like you still have the stock steering linkage. Sweet rides you have there.

Chuck, love the color. That thing just looks mean:devil:

Do you drive it that low:eek::eek:

Thanks guys for the approval. I know it does need to come down a tweek but not much the thing stands on the bumper on the launch so I do not want to put in the "weeds" it is not a chassis car so it seems to perform better on the back bumber at the track, hopefully the photographer won't be out to lunch this weekend at the track and I can show everyone some action pics!! I agree with you Voodoo I can't imagine the front end with out the crossmember I'm glad you liked it. It's too bad the crossmember never sees sunlight the metallic really sparkles in the light. I know someone gave out a dimension for a stock rear sump pan, I just can not remember who maybe Nova 404, but I will get over to my dad's and measure the depth on his pan to give you guys an Idea.

Do you drive it that low:eek::eek:

Yes:eek: not good, I have to be very careful around speed pumps. This is just one of the reasons I will do the Churchboys R&P. Now to find a nice low pro rear sump pan that holds some oil in it for the 383 Stroker.

Yes:eek: not good, I have to be very careful around speed pumps. This is just one of the reasons I will do the Churchboys R&P. Now to find a nice low pro rear sump pan that holds some oil in it for the 383 Stroker.

I for one am with you on that.

Well Tim we are counting on you, being the first to do the Church conversion you should be the first pan swap.With all that motor you have and how low it sits I would think you need a good quality pan.I have been looking at Canton and Kevco but cant decide.How is that hip doing? Do you have a date yet?

Well Tim we are counting on you, being the first to do the Church conversion you should be the first pan swap.With all that motor you have and how low it sits I would think you need a good quality pan.I have been looking at Canton and Kevco but cant decide.How is that hip doing? Do you have a date yet?
I am going to do the swap this winter. Having to much driving it. And I have one for you Popular Hot Rodding did a shot on the car yesterday. It took 9hr's and my hip was killing me. But boy was I happy. Just had to slip that in.:yes::yes:

I am going to do the swap this winter. Having to much driving it. And I have one for you Popular Hot Rodding did a shot on the car yesterday. It took 9hr's and my hip was killing me. But boy was I happy. Just had to slip that in.:yes::yes:

I had always hoped for a photo shoot, a well deserved congrats, maybe I need a big blower sticking out of the hood:devil::D:devil: