Steering rack and Ididit column

How did you tie the old column to the rack? I bught a 64 project with a tci mustang two front End.. I'm trying to figure out the steering.... Thanks

When using the original column you will need to cut the original steering shaft apart from the steering box leaving enough sticking out the end to put a steering knuckle on it. You will have to grind 2 flats on the end of the shaft for a 3/4DD steering knuckle, then you will need a steering shaft, next will be the steering knuckle that gets installed onto the rack.

How did you tie the old column to the rack? I bught a 64 project with a tci mustang two front End.. I'm trying to figure out the steering.... Thanks

If this question was pointed at me? No. I have a brand new IDIDIT tilt column I just clearcoated and is waiting to be bolted in. I'll get some pics and info tonight maybe. If your using the stock column what Chuck said is spot on!

Looks excellant John, with the stock crossmember still in use it will really look like you baught it from good ole Chevrolet that way!!!!!

This will make for a very efficient daily driver, can't wait to see it all finished up :-)

Thanks Chuck! That's my whole point of building this car up is reliability, simplicity and efficiency. :D I mostly want to be able to run to the local NAPA etc and buy off the shelf parts if need be. My Hardtop will get the exotic, leave you on the side of the road stranded parts! :rolleyes:

Once I receive the power rack I am going to paint it silver like the rest of the CPP kit under there so it all kind of ties together. Sort of making it look real clean and somewhat stock.

There is also a steering shaft kit available when you use the stock outer column with a aftermarket front clip, or the Church Boys R&P conversion.

Thanks, I was just trying to take the shaft out of the stock box.... I tried taking off the slide plate cover,,,, Must have snap rings in there some where... Thanks for your input Guys.... I'll need to post some pics of the project..

OK Chuck. Made some headway. A few hiccups but I am using a stock cross member with a power rack right.:D

Power R&P was on my porch last night when I got home!

Tried bolting the R&P into the brackets but that was a NO-GO! Seems that there's some interference issues to be addressed! (Chuck did make me aware of the lines hitting the cross member/brackets.) No problem. Tweaked em and that fixed the lines.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5648.jpg

But there was one more clearance issue.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5625.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5638.jpg
Seems the cap that covers the counter screw shaft hits the cross member as well. The clamps were not even close to being tight and the rack wasn't fit to the clamps either. Easy fix!!http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/Smileys/sawzall.gif

Now it clears! I over sized it so there were no possible contact points. Don't want any funny vibrations going on down there! Those kinds of noises will drive ya to drink!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5674.jpg

Now that I have both a manual and power R&P in my possession.:D I will lay them side by side and take some pictures of the differences for other reference.

I temporarily put the dampening knuckle and steering shaft in and moved them around. They seem to clear the motor mount tower in all but extreme position. I don't have the column in the car yet so the real truth will later.


Once again Chuck! Beautiful work on the clamps! They fit like a glove!

Thanks John, things are looking pretty good.............another week maybe for a test drive?????? Just kidding. I kind of like the pewter looking rack.



For those in need of some more information about the Church Boys arms from cpp here is a link http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107356

Got the new sway bar installed, and as advertised it is awesome. Like 404 and Tim said, very predictable, and a more stable feel, especially in odd angle dips in the road. Drives like a whole different car.....Chuckster, you are the man........

If you guys buying the Church set up don't get one, you are cheating yourselves, it is that good..........

Okay Chuck.....what's up your sleeve next from Church Boys Racing...huh...huh...c'mon spill it.......

Thanks Chuck for R&D and getting these out for our cars, I just look for any excuse to drive now.........even to the store...:D

Thanks to my buddy Clint too, for hookin' me up, we're putting one on his car next.......

T,

Got the new sway bar installed, and as advertised it is awesome. Like 404 and Tim said, very predictable, and a more stable feel, especially in odd angle dips in the road. Drives like a whole different car.....Chuckster, you are the man........

If you guys buying the Church set up don't get one, you are cheating yourselves, it is that good..........

Okay Chuck.....what's up your sleeve next from Church Boys Racing...huh...huh...c'mon spill it.......

Thanks Chuck for R&D and getting these out for our cars, I just look for any excuse to drive now.........even to the store...:D

Thanks to my buddy Clint too, for hookin' me up, we're putting one on his car next.......

T,

X10 On that:yes:

Got everything for my 66 for the Church Boys rack, mini sub frame & sway bar conversion. Then I get to have Christmas next week when I put it all together. The information here has been great.

Got everything for my 66 for the Church Boys rack, mini sub frame & sway bar conversion. Then I get to have Christmas next week when I put it all together. The information here has been great.

Great news, if you need any help, be sure to post up or PM....good luck.

T,

Here is more to look at. A little test drive with a wagon. Looks pretty cool to me. He was sure pushing that baby. http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107860

Got everything for my 66 for the Church Boys rack, mini sub frame & sway bar conversion. Then I get to have Christmas next week when I put it all together. The information here has been great.

Got er done! CPP Mini sub-frame kit. Lower only. Church Boys rack setup, and a new oil pan, rear sump stock style no notch! YEEHAA yall. :D Ground clearance. Quick test ride was fun on rain slick roads and excess toe out. But steering seems good. 3 turns stop to stop once I made some steering stops. Without them The sway bar becomes the defacto steering stops when the tires hit it. 215, 60 15 front tires. It is easier to turn. I like the road feel. Got to get used to the new steering action. I tend to over correct from past memory.

Church Boys were wonderful to deal with when I had a question or two.

I had a SSBC disc brake kit with the SSBC spindles on before. The Chevelle steering arms fit like a dream, no grinding or spacers needed.

Lessons learned. Rivets, 12 of them. 5 each side for the drag link removal and 2 for the sway bay. I like to drill out the center with a 1/4" drill going about 3/4 of the way through the rivets. Then a 1/2" drill to get rid of the head. It never goes center so a chisel or grinder to remove the last bit of the head. Then a small punch up through the hole you drilled to knock the rivet out. I went through the rivets at the start and trying to catch the lip took a lot longer. Also hitting them from underneath this way sort of stretches them making them let go.

Use jack stands to hold the sway bar up while working on it. Lot less cursing.

Had to beat the #3 tube of my Headman headers to get the steering rod to clear. About 1/3 of the diameter of #3 tube is now flattened. Headers are always fun and they were not designed for this setup. My colum was originally installed for the stock steering gear box and doesn't protrude into the engine compartment, adding to the clearence issue with the header.

66 and prior, needs a floor mount for the steering column to keep the base of the steering column from moving around.

Looks real good, just like the pictures here. go here for pics before & after install (http://mysite.verizon.net/vhubbard9/novapics/nova_pics.htm)

I had my tranny oil cooler mounted horizontal between the cross member and front of the frame. There was still enough room for it with the CPP mini sub frame kit.

Get the alignment specs from Church also. Then find someone that is experienced enough to do it correctly.

Any pics? I would like to see if a stock oil pan would work on my 383... I need some ground clearance:yes: Thx

Here is a stock front sump

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/frontsump009.jpg

......and here is a stock GM rear sump pan.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/oldcamera010.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/oldcamera002.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1004.jpg

MyChevyii20 thanks for posting your info. My 66 has the same brakes and spindles. Did you install a new iddit column that required the floor mount? Also wondering about my tire size (205 40R 17), I have Hedman Supercomp hedders. Collecting the info and parts then after Xmas the install. :yes:

MyChevyii20 thanks for posting your info. My 66 has the same brakes and spindles. Did you install a new iddit column that required the floor mount? Also wondering about my tire size (205 40R 17), I have Hedman Supercomp hedders. Collecting the info and parts then after Xmas the install. :yes:

The 66 and prior used the steering box as the lower mount to hold the steering colum. To keep the bottom of the colum solid you need something to hold it.

I had the IDIDIT from before, but it was measured/installed for the 67 steering box. I am a big guy so I don't want the steering wheel too low either. The end just gets to the firewall. I have added a picture link to my writeup if you want to see my column. If you are buying a new column for this installation, I would get one that would extend a couple of inches past the firewall. It will change the angle on the shaft and give you more clearance for headers. You may not have to adjust them as I did.

Thx for the pics Chuck. Will a stock rear sump work on my 383 stroker? I have a Low profile Milodon rear sump for my stroker now but it seems to hang just as low as my full length Milodon. 7.5" down....

Thx for the pics Chuck. Will a stock rear sump work on my 383 stroker? I have a Low profile Milodon rear sump for my stroker now but it seems to hang just as low as my full length Milodon. 7.5" down....

Smitty if you have the milodon pan with the hole for the steering link it is 8.5 inches deep, if you run a stock style pan mack sure it will clear the extra stroke, milodon, moroso, and several others make claimer style stock pans that will work.

Smitty62, VoodooII is correct you just have to make sure that the extra stroke will not interfere.

Hay VoodooII just got my new pan. 7" deep looks great thanks for the info on it. Well you guys were talking about oil-pans.

I hope that you pick up some clearance with the new pan.The old one was sure close to the ground.

I hope that you pick up some clearance with the new pan.The old one was sure close to the ground.

He will his scatter shield will be the lowest point of contact now.:eek:

Sorry in advance if this has already been explained, but I thought I would ask just to ensure I understand.

If I purchase the CPP lower arm converstion kit that works with Churches product what kit would I need to purchase from churches?

Would me having the items installed below cause any issues?

Front End pieces: (All installed by previous owner)
- Spindles, Calipers and Rotors from 71-73 chevelle
- Tie rod ends from 67-69 Camaro


-Justin

Basicly just the rack components of your choice and Chevelle steering arms.As long as you use stock spindles your brakes will be no problem.

He will his scatter shield will be the lowest point of contact now.:eek:

I am going to trim an inch off the lip of the shield so that will help some to.

Basicly just the rack components of your choice and Chevelle steering arms.As long as you use stock spindles your brakes will be no problem.

So does churches have a package like this? What package should I get? I don't have stock spindles I have spindles from a chevelle.

The steering arms I have are from a 68/69 camaro drum brake. Again this was installed by the previous owner

-Justin

OK Chevelle spindels will not work with the CPP control arms,the lower ball joint in the Chevelle spindles is larger due to a larger ball joint.I assume you have a Global west conversion? You will need to find some 5 lug 64-67 nova spindles somewhere and modify them to fit your brakes.All you need to do is mill/grind about 1/2 inch of the top boss on the spindle.As far as a kit you can buy everthing you need from Chruchboys or try to find some of the parts local to you.

OK Chevelle spindels will not work with the CPP control arms,the lower ball joint in the Chevelle spindles is larger due to a larger ball joint.I assume you have a Global west conversion? You will need to find some 5 lug 64-67 nova spindles somewhere and modify them to fit your brakes.All you need to do is mill/grind about 1/2 inch of the top boss on the spindle.As far as a kit you can buy everthing you need from Chruchboys or try to find some of the parts local to you.

I'm really new to all this, but the owner before me put disk brakes on the front of the nova which is 5 lugs and a rear end from a 67 nova to have 5 lugs all the way around. What I list below is what he has done. This is all I know. I can take pics if this helps. I would really like to put churches setup and CPP on my car.

I hope this helps and thanks in advance for the help.

Spindles, Calipers and Rotors from 71-73 Chevelle
Tir Rod Ends from 67-69 Camaro Drum brake
low ball joints from 73 chevelle
Master Cylinder 73 Chevelle
Power Brake unit from 64 malibu wagon

That looks like what Global West used to do for our cars.I had the same thing on my 67.If you are not set on the CPP arms the reversed strut rod kit that Churchboy sells would retain your current spindles.I do not know how well that system works.I do know that the CPP lower kit was one of the best things I changed in my front end and next was the rack.PM 67Church he may have some other options for you.If you want CPP kit it is a simple modification on the spindles. You can find them on E-bay pretty cheap.

That looks like what Global West used to do for our cars.I had the same thing on my 67.If you are not set on the CPP arms the reversed strut rod kit that Churchboy sells would retain your current spindles.I do not know how well that system works.I do know that the CPP lower kit was one of the best things I changed in my front end and next was the rack.PM 67Church he may have some other options for you.If you want CPP kit it is a simple modification on the spindles. You can find them on E-bay pretty cheap.

Good info Nova 404 thanks! So just to make sure I'm clear.
If I want to go with churchboys setup I should be ok with what I have?
If want to go with CPP lower control arms I would need to change my spindles back to stock which puts me back to 4 lug (this is where I'm confused a bit..sorry)?

I really want to go to CPP lower control arms and churchboys setup, from what I have been readin this is a really great setup. Again I'm new to this but not afraid to jump in with two feet and give it a go. Thanks again Nova 404.

-Justin

Part one is correct
You can go with the CPP but you need 5 lug nova spindles which is 64-67 not 4 lug spindles.We are here to help. I wish this site was around when I started my car.I see you are in California,if you are close you can come by and check things out in person.I have Church rack,CPP arms and coilovers on my 67.

Part one is correct
You can go with the CPP but you need 5 lug nova spindles which is 64-67 not 4 lug spindles.We are here to help. I wish this site was around when I started my car.I see you are in California,if you are close you can come by and check things out in person.I have Church rack,CPP arms and coilovers on my 67.

Hey Nova 404 thanks I really appreciate the help and time. I live in Tracy not to far from you. Thanks for the invite.

-Justin

Does anyone make a 2" drop spindle that will work with stock nova brakes?
Here is way I am asking. I have BEAR brakes on my car and they use the stock drum spindles and I am thinking of putting a set of drop spindles on it if I can. And you are the man on this 404.

Tim I was told by Baer and CPP that the CPP drop spindles will only work with CPP's brakes.If you have stock upper arms you may have more room.The problem is the caliper will contact the upper arm. this may cause the pedal to go soft due to pushing the pistons back.To answer the first question the CPP drop spindles will work as a stock replacement you just need to get thier spacer.I thought way back when I talked to you you knew someone a Baer? All they need is to lower the caliper in rellation to the pin on the spindle.

I am running stock upper and lowers. The guy I knew works for SSBS now. Do you think if I called CPP they could or would help?

I would call both CPP and Baer and see what they have to say.If you call CPP try to get Danny Nix or Jeff.

Thanks like I said you the man!

Jmdc,

Nova404 is correct about using the Chevelle spindles and the cpp arms. The lower ball joint will not work.

You can however still install our kit and still use you spindles and brakes. You would end up with our rear mounted strut rod kit. This lets you use the original lower control arm and eliminate the front rubber mounted strut rod. Our kit mounts to the rear using heim joints. This will allow the benefit that the tubular arms share and that is not dealing with the front strut rod, granted it is not completely tubular but, it is very effective! Also as money allows or you come across a good deal the proper spindles can be had and then the tubular lower arms can be installed at a later date. Below is a photo of our rear mounted strut rod installed on a front clip.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/Goodguys08010.jpg

Jmdc,

Nova404 is correct about using the Chevelle spindles and the cpp arms. The lower ball joint will not work.

You can however still install our kit and still use you spindles and brakes. You would end up with our rear mounted strut rod kit. This lets you use the original lower control arm and eliminate the front rubber mounted strut rod. Our kit mounts to the rear using heim joints. This will allow the benefit that the tubular arms share and that is not dealing with the front strut rod, granted it is not completely tubular but, it is very effective! Also as money allows or you come across a good deal the proper spindles can be had and then the tubular lower arms can be installed at a later date. Below is a photo of our rear mounted strut rod installed on a front clip.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/Goodguys08010.jpg

This is the kit I have on my car now and could not be happier. I have drove the crap out of it this summer. I have put over 4000 miles on it. With the new Sway-Bar it drives like a new car.

This is the kit I have on my car now and could not be happier. I have drove the crap out of it this summer. I have put over 4000 miles on it. With the new Sway-Bar it drives like a new car.

Thanks 3DTim for this info. Currently I have power steering on my car, do you guys think I should go with the power rack or manual?

-Justin

For simplicity I would go with the manual rack.It does not steer hard with a stock size steering wheel.It is up to you if you have a small steering wheel and want effortless steering it may be the way to go. you will be on your own fitting the pump and having lines made.

For simplicity I would go with the manual rack.It does not steer hard with a stock size steering wheel.It is up to you if you have a small steering wheel and want effortless steering it may be the way to go. you will be on your own fitting the pump and having lines made.

I am not a power steering kind of guy just fills to free to me. But with the rack it would be a lot nicer and if you did a good job on the lines would not leak like most of the old steering boxes did. I have a friend that has a very nice car with the old power steering on it leaks all the time. I beat he has put $500 in it trying to get it to stop leaking. But he is one that just will not change anything on his car. I talked to a guy just now that has done the power rack and likes it. But I have not seen it. He said he would come this weekend and let me drive it. If he does I will let you know how it does. His is a wagon too.

Ok my buddy just left and we have taking it for a little drive 25deg's and no heater.It fells good but he did a real crappy job on the pump and lines. He has some 16x8 on the car and it drove real nice. He used a stock pump off a Chevy truck. So if you come up with a nice pump and do the line right you would be seat. The rack looked real nice and he has the 2" drop spindles on it so the car sets good he has the Chevy2Only QA1 coil-overs on it and it set's at lest a 1 1/2" lower than my car. Sorry did not get any pic's of the car " son has my camera". Hope this will help you some. 25 deg's and no heater it will take me all day to warm back up.

Ok my buddy just left and we have taking it for a little drive 25deg's and no heater.It fells good but he did a real crappy job on the pump and lines. He has some 16x8 on the car and it drove real nice. He used a stock pump off a Chevy truck. So if you come up with a nice pump and do the line right you would be seat. The rack looked real nice and he has the 2" drop spindles on it so the car sets good he has the Chevy2Only QA1 coil-overs on it and it set's at lest a 1 1/2" lower than my car. Sorry did not get any pic's of the car " son has my camera". Hope this will help you some. 25 deg's and no heater it will take me all day to warm back up.

An inch and a half lower than your car:eek: thats what I'm talken about:cool:

Ok my buddy just left and we have taking it for a little drive 25deg's and no heater.It fells good but he did a real crappy job on the pump and lines. He has some 16x8 on the car and it drove real nice. He used a stock pump off a Chevy truck. So if you come up with a nice pump and do the line right you would be seat. The rack looked real nice and he has the 2" drop spindles on it so the car sets good he has the Chevy2Only QA1 coil-overs on it and it set's at lest a 1 1/2" lower than my car. Sorry did not get any pic's of the car " son has my camera". Hope this will help you some. 25 deg's and no heater it will take me all day to warm back up.

So how would you compare to your manual rack?

-Justin

For Fun, what is the weight difference?

If I had thought about this before bolting everything on....

Anyway I weighed all the old parts, 88 lbs. The parts from the steering gear to the steering arms, lower A-frames & ball joints, strut rods, strut rod mounts and a 1" sway bar.

Anyone want to weigh the CPP Mini subframe kit, rack mounts, rack, tie rods, chevelle steering arms, church boys sway bar, 2 U joints and 16-18" steering rod?

Best guess.... I think we are a few pounds under the stock weight. Removed around 20 lbs bias on the driver side removing the steering gear box.

Tubular crossmember, Billet clamps, Manual rack, outer tie rod ends and rear mounted strut rods, 2 steering knuckles and DD shaft
26lbs.

So how would you compare to your manual rack?

-Justin

Drove real nice. And lot better that the stock power steering. I like it better with out the power but if I was going to go with power that is the was I would go.
I tell you VooDooII I do not know how he drives it. He has a stock pan on it that he has shorted it some. I could not see how he could have much oil in it or what he could have do the pickup tub. The tires rub on the finders. But it look good from 20 feet.

I guess there is a limit to how low you go, :yes: I can't believe I just said that:confused:

I guess there is a limit to how low you go, :yes:

Someone said you were the man at it.:eek:

I have not been on this site for some time, and when I have, I haven't seen this thread. Well I just spent the last 3 hours or so reading this and watching this evolve from Feb. I just couldn't shut the pc off. I rooted for everone and just couldn't wait for pics and responses to churches upgrades. And just when I thought is was over he brings out the sway bar!!! This here is good stuff. Man you are on top of it. So I have decided to go with the conversion my self. I thank all of you, especially SNS, for letting me read this excellent story. It seems like after reading this thread in its entirety I should be able to do this in my sleep! lol

I have not been on this site for some time, and when I have, I haven't seen this thread. Well I just spent the last 3 hours or so reading this and watching this evolve from Feb. I just couldn't shut the pc off. I rooted for everone and just couldn't wait for pics and responses to churches upgrades. And just when I thought is was over he brings out the sway bar!!! This here is good stuff. Man you are on top of it. So I have decided to go with the conversion my self. I thank all of you, especially SNS, for letting me read this excellent story. It seems like after reading this thread in its entirety I should be able to do this in my sleep! lol

You can do it in your sleep, it is that easy. All plug and play. Built by a racer, so you know he tried to tear it up......:D (duckin' from Chuck), you won't believe how well your car drives. Once again, get the sway bar too. You'll be able to tackle anything on the road with this deal.

T,

You can do it in your sleep, it is that easy. All plug and play. Built by a racer, so you know he tried to tear it up......:D (duckin' from Chuck), you won't believe how well your car drives. Once again, get the sway bar too. You'll be able to tackle anything on the road with this deal.

T,

What he said and some!

Does anyone have a picture of this kit installed with the CPP mini sub frame kit?

There are some pictures on my photobucket site

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/rackbottomview.jpg


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/dropspindlesrtside.jpg

So i take it that the sway bar mount up to the 4 forward bolts of the mini sub frame and then runs back to the lower a arm

Here are a couple pictures of the swaybar and how it mounts. (this is the prototype bar so it is not powdercoated)

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1109.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1103.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1116.jpg

You will have to drill 2 holes one on each side. There is a bolt on the front inside corner of the frame where the core support and the subframe come together you will use this existing bolt to bolt up the bushing bracket and then mark the location for the second bolt.

Santa delivered Church Boys goodies just as Chuck said. Tie rods etc came off with ease. Now I'm looking at the steering box, it is loose and hanging there and looks like I need to take off the hedders (hooker supercomp competition}. Suggestions will really be appreciated from all those who have previously done this. :turn:

Santa delivered Church Boys goodies just as Chuck said. Tie rods etc came off with ease. Now I'm looking at the steering box, it is loose and hanging there and looks like I need to take off the hedders (hooker supercomp competition}. Suggestions will really be appreciated from all those who have previously done this. :turn:

If you don't want to save it, get a sawzall and cut the column shaft about 2 inches up from the box, that way someone can adapt an IDIDIT to it later when you sell it.....:D

T,

Ok brilliant. So here is what I am thinking. Pull the steering column out so shaft will be visible, cut shaft then:turn: steering box should come out from the top.???

Ok brilliant. So here is what I am thinking. Pull the steering column out so shaft will be visible, cut shaft then:turn: steering box should come out from the top.???

I would still pull the header:yes:

It would be easier in the long run to remove the header.I was able to get the box out of my 67 with the header in the car but I had to loosen it to get some wiggle room and I did scratch the coating on my headers.

Thanks for the reply. I'll do the header.

The header still got the usual scratches & dings. The steering box didn't come up and out because of the power brake booster, so loosened the motor mounts jacked the motor up some and got it out the bottom. Wheeeu now cleanup and the good part starts. :yes:

I'm glad to hear that you are making some progress. Show us some photos when you get a chance.:yes:

This is the kit I have on my car now and could not be happier. I have drove the crap out of it this summer. I have put over 4000 miles on it. With the new Sway-Bar it drives like a new car.

Would this be a good setup for a driver? As opposed to using the CPP kit with the R&P? How do they differ in handling?

I don't race at all, but I do drive windy mountain roads a couple times a week. My car is a '64 4 door all stock with 230 engine. I just want a nice handling, comfortable car. Thanks.

Would this be a good setup for a driver? As opposed to using the CPP kit with the R&P? How do they differ in handling?

I don't race at all, but I do drive windy mountain roads a couple times a week. My car is a '64 4 door all stock with 230 engine. I just want a nice handling, comfortable car. Thanks.

this is what you want for a good handling car, it will turn better and with the sway bar you'll be amassed, it won,t feel like the same car.:no:

Would this be a good setup for a driver? As opposed to using the CPP kit with the R&P? How do they differ in handling?

I don't race at all, but I do drive windy mountain roads a couple times a week. My car is a '64 4 door all stock with 230 engine. I just want a nice handling, comfortable car. Thanks.

I do not have the CPP Kit and it drives great. I have pushed mine hard a few time and was very happy. And I drive mine a lot. I put over 4000miles on it this summer.

3DTim,
What else have you done as far as bushings, eccentrics, etc.?

3DTim,
What else have you done as far as bushings, eccentrics, etc.?

It is all stock. I have QA1 Coilovers. And I am running the churchboys front sway-bar. Upper and Lower ball joints are stock.

Awesome, thanks.

one question I had is will a full length box style oil pan fit with the rack? here are some examples:

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11913

Yes, if you use the Church Crossmember too, the stock one is very close, but maybe. I am not running the stock one.


http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/014.jpg


T,

Yes any pan you like should work,plenty of room. It is hard to tell if there would be an issue because that Fabricated pan is a little longer overall than a steel one.If you would like some measurements let me know or if you want to look at the install in person PM me I am in th Walnut Creek/Pleasant Hill area

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/BOTTOMVIEW.jpg

one question I had is will a full length box style oil pan fit with the rack? here are some examples:

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11913

Tom and Nova404 have really good pictures of the pan clearance!

My pan is not as deep as the one you are looking at but it is built the same way in the front so here is a picture of mine and you can see that it would not be a problem. These were the mock up pics so please don't look at the bare metal.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0320.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0319.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0322.jpg

HAPPY NEW YEAR. Does anyone have any pics of what they created for the Floor Mount to Iddit column brace on a Church Boys conversion? Getting close to the finish...:yes:

What he have been using is the floor mount from Ididit #2401300010, it bolts to the floor and has a clamp that goes around the column its self.

A 67 factory clamp will bolt right on or the clamp listed above with slight midifications will work fine.If you use the Ididit clamp you can use your stock lower column seal if you cut the part that interferes with the clamp.I wish I had a picture to show you.

A 67 factory clamp will bolt right on or the clamp listed above with slight midifications will work fine.If you use the Ididit clamp you can use your stock lower column seal if you cut the part that interferes with the clamp.I wish I had a picture to show you.

The factory 67 clamp is 1/4" larger in diameter than the Ididit column. Heidts and Alston have an aftermarket lower support but they are about $40 (too much ****$ in my opinion).

Here is a not so good photo of the universal clamp with the rubber boot slipped into place. If the excess boot that is climbing up the column is trimmed off down to the lip that seals on the firewall the clamp will slide all the way down to the boot and then bolt to the floor and or firewall. Like I said this is a scetchy photo at best but if you look closely you can see the clamp that is referenced above in my previous post.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1235.jpg

Nogo, I know the clamp for a 67 is to larger but you can work with it and make a nice clean install.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/ididitrubberbushing.jpg


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/ididitcolumnstocklowermount.jpg

[QUOTE=67 church;978590]Tom and Nova404 have really good pictures of the pan clearance!

My pan is not as deep as the one you are looking at but it is built the same way in the front so here is a picture of mine and you can see that it would not be a problem. These were the mock up pics so please don't look at the bare metal.

hey Chuck, what pan is that you are using? Do you have measurements specs for it? I have the Milodon Drag pan with the hole in it right now but would love to get a lower profile (more ground clearance) pan once your kit is installed. This milodon one hangs down like 8 1/2 inches :eek: not good!! Thx

I don't know the specifics off hand. When I get back home (currently sitting in LAX airport) I will get some measurments for you. It is a Stef's pan if this will help you out for the moment.


Have you started the install yet or are you getting all the ducks lined up?

[QUOTE=67 church;978590]Tom and Nova404 have really good pictures of the pan clearance!

My pan is not as deep as the one you are looking at but it is built the same way in the front so here is a picture of mine and you can see that it would not be a problem. These were the mock up pics so please don't look at the bare metal.

hey Chuck, what pan is that you are using? Do you have measurements specs for it? I have the Milodon Drag pan with the hole in it right now but would love to get a lower profile (more ground clearance) pan once your kit is installed. This milodon one hangs down like 8 1/2 inches :eek: not good!! Thx

What headers are you running, I have a Kevco drag pan and had them make it 7 inches deep in the rear and still holds 8 qts, it has the power pouch on the right side which I will have to modify for my starter/header combo they will make the pan in any configuration that you want, talk with Kevin at Kevco Racing:yes: good people.

I did the something VooDooII did.

I don't know the specifics off hand. When I get back home (currently sitting in LAX airport) I will get some measurments for you. It is a Stef's pan if this will help you out for the moment.


Have you started the install yet or are you getting all the ducks lined up?

Lax huh? you r about 15 - 20 minutes north of me. I am getting all my ducks lined up and just need to get a hold of a CPP kit with your lowers. Walt has not got back to me for some time. Im just waiting....:confused:

Lax huh? you r about 15 - 20 minutes north of me. I am getting all my ducks lined up and just need to get a hold of a CPP kit with your lowers. Walt has not got back to me for some time. Im just waiting....:confused:

Walt has the lowers in stock keep bugging him, send him a nasty PM:devil:

will do....Im sure Christmas and New years might have something to do with it. ill send him another pm, thx!!

will do....Im sure Christmas and New years might have something to do with it. ill send him another pm, thx!!

I will take some of the blame for this, Walt has been with me this past week in Anehiem along with Nova404 doing an install of our kit for Super Chevy. You should be hearing from him soon.

JR,

I re-sent you a pm. I sent one just before Christmas, but evidently it got lost somewhere. Just let me know. Walt

I will take some of the blame for this, Walt has been with me this past week in Anehiem along with Nova404 doing an install of our kit for Super Chevy. You should be hearing from him soon.

Lets us all know what month the issue will be out so we can all pick it up :yes:

-Justin

JR,

I re-sent you a pm. I sent one just before Christmas, but evidently it got lost somewhere. Just let me know. Walt

Uh? were you referring to me Walt?
If so yes I do need to hook up with you. I'll give you a call real soon. No worries.:cool:

Uh? were you referring to me Walt?
If so yes I do need to hook up with you. I'll give you a call real soon. No worries.:cool:

A sleep at the wheel again!:devil:

Sorry JR, I need to keep straight if I use someone's online ID vs their initials.

The message was actually for Smittys62 who has the initials of JR. Sorry for the confusion, but yeah JR/JRChevy feel free to call.

Later,
Walt

Sorry JR, I need to keep straight if I use someone's online ID vs their initials.

The message was actually for Smittys62 who has the initials of JR. Sorry for the confusion, but yeah JR/JRChevy feel free to call.

Later,
Walt

A sleep at the wheel again!:devil:

Nahh.. If I had been asleep at the wheel it would have been in the 2dr in the shop where I could hide from eveyone!!

Been up to my knees in snow that last few weeks! Literally!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/SnowyNova.jpg
Add to that the Holidays and runnin all over Gods creation to the relatives I haven't had time to get on the PC let alone work on my car. Lookin for a new job doesn't help either:rolleyes:

I'll ring ya up Walt!!

JR here JR there:eek::confused::eek: Yeah Walt I got your PM, thx!! Im just making my last decision, Lowers and Coil Overs with or without Uppers. I’m still on the fence. Ill make the final decision asap and get that order to you. Thx again. JR,,, ooooops ill stick with the SNS ID, Smitty
JR is my name and Smitty is my nick name. Happy New Year SNS!!

You will not be disappointed.:D

[QUOTE=Smittys62;984202]

What headers are you running, I have a Kevco drag pan and had them make it 7 inches deep in the rear and still holds 8 qts, it has the power pouch on the right side which I will have to modify for my starter/header combo they will make the pan in any configuration that you want, talk with Kevin at Kevco Racing:yes: good people.

Sorry, didn't see this question. I have the Hooker Headers 2243HKR's on my 383 stroker. I will install the CB rack kit along with the CPP lower and coil overs and see where I am with ride height. Kevco will be my first stop for a new pan. I would love a full length 7" pan..:D..

Lets us all know what month the issue will be out so we can all pick it up :yes:

-Justin

Once they give me a heads up on the article I will be sure to let everyone know.

Here is some information about our sway bar.

-The Church Bar is made for us by Hotchkis Sport Suspensions
It can not be purchased directly from Hotchkis. You can purchase
thru Walt at Classic Nova and Performance or by contacting us at
Church Boys Racing LLC

- This is the only sway bar that will work with the Church Boys r/p conversion

- The bar is 1-1/8" dia.

- All of the bars are powdercoated gloss black and come with the necessary
hardware for installation.

- The Church Bar will fit any 62-67 with a stock front clip that has the front
strut rods removed. IE. using the tubular lower arms or my rear mounted
strut rod set up.

Here is some information about our sway bar.

-The Church Bar is made for us by Hotchkis Sport Suspensions
It can not be purchased directly from Hotchkis. You can purchase
thru Walt at Classic Nova and Performance or by contacting us at
Church Boys Racing LLC

- This is the only sway bar that will work with the Church Boys r/p conversion

- The bar is 1-1/8" dia.

- All of the bars are powdercoated gloss black and come with the necessary
hardware for installation.

- The Church Bar will fit any 62-67 with a stock front clip that has the front
strut rods removed. IE. using the tubular lower arms or my rear mounted
strut rod set up.

And makes it drive really goooooood too.

Here's a little eye candy for you, so you know what you are getting....:D


T,

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/138.jpg


http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/139.jpg

[QUOTE=TomM;986447]Here's a little eye candy for you, so you know what you are getting....:D
T,[QUOTE]

You killin me:devil: I need to get out there and start rippin that ald stock stuff off :yes:

After a couple of adjustments at the alignment shop finally took the Nova for a spin. Wow what a difference, turning radius is tighter, steering is easier, cornering smoother and more. I need to drive it more to get use to the quicker response (more on that later). :yes:

After a couple of adjustments at the alignment shop finally took the Nova for a spin. Wow what a difference, turning radius is tighter, steering is easier, cornering smoother and more. I need to drive it more to get use to the quicker response (more on that later). :yes:

Looks great:yes::yes:

After a couple of adjustments at the alignment shop finally took the Nova for a spin. Wow what a difference, turning radius is tighter, steering is easier, cornering smoother and more. I need to drive it more to get use to the quicker response (more on that later). :yes:

Hey are those Hooker Headers 2243HKR's hanging under there? Looks awesome:cool: I have the same stuff en route but in black. Now what are you going to for a new oil pan?

Yes, supercomp hookers. Oil pan is as low as the trans so I'll try it as is.

Thanks for the update Roger! That really looks nice.

..........Guys the pictures do not tell the whole story this is one really nice car:yes: Question for you Roger, do you remember what the alignment specs were when the shop was done?

Man with the headers and the rack setup and arms all done in sliver it looks great. I hope when I get done mine looks half as good.

Just got my order with Walt finalized today!!:D The lower mini subkit and some coil overs are en route :yes::D:yes:. The CB rack kit is already here.... Now its time to get out to the garage and start tearing the front off. Stand by for some questions :yes: I might be :turn: all over the place. Thx Walt!!!

Dialing in the alignment seems to be acute because all is so responsive. Here are the initial alignment specs: Left Front, camber 0.3, caster 1.4, toe 0.13. Right Front: camber 0.3, caster 1.3, toe 0.13. At present the car lurches sideways with road variations. (too responsive) So the toe needs to be as close to "0" as possible. That is what has been passed down. More info to come after another alignment today. :yes:

Common questions about the Church Boys r/p conversion


What does it take to do this conversion?

-Remove all factory steering linkage including the steering box.
-Remove forward strut rods & stock steering arms
-62-66 shorten steering shaft for fittment of a steering joint. The 67 is already shortend.
-remove the stock crossmember

-Install our tubular Xmember,billet clamps, steering rack/tie rod ends,
steeering arms,rear mounted strut rods or the tubular "Church Arms" (factory lower control arm is not needed if the tubular lowers are used) connect the rack to the steering column via. 2 steering joints and a DD shaft.
Alignment and drive.

What are the rack and tie rods from?
-Rack: 1976-1987 chevrolet chevette manual or power
-Tie rods ends: 35 different dodge, chrysler, plymouth vehicles
# es3008r or 269-2759 (Dana)

Steering Arms?
-custom c-n-c made

Oil Pans?
-You can use any oil pan of your choice.

Headers?
- The best fittment is with the Hooker Supercomps

Steering column?
-Re-use your stock column or use an aftermarket column of your choice
we have been using the Ididit columns.

Can you still lower the car?
-Yes, however it is advised that you use a drop spindle so that the steering
geometry stays in its proper position. A 2 piece spindle will be needed so that the "A" body steering arms can be bolted on.

Sway bar?
-The "Church Bar" by Hotchkis is the only bar compatible with our kit.
-1-1/8" dia. powder coated glossy black with all the hardware.

Tubular Lower Control Arms?
-You must be using the "Church Arms", other versions will cause fittment
issues.
-When using the tubular lowers the rear mounted strut rods will not be
needed.

Standard shift linkage (Z bar)
- There are no issues with the Z-bar

Weight of the conversion kit?
- 26lbs. (tubularX member, clamps, Rack/tie rods, steering arms, strut
rods, 2 steering knuckles, & DD shaft.
- Factory components that are replaced weighed in at 38lbs.

Benefits of installing the Church Boys R/P conversion:
-Better handling, quicker turning, easier turning,tighter turning radius,
opens up the engine bay, ground clearance and very servicable.

For current price and availability please give me a call, email, or a PM.

THANKS,

Hey Chuck thanks I got my rack and steering arms the other day! Working with Walt to get some items. I need to get a paper route or something so I can get these parts faster :-) J/K. Thanks!

-Justin

Thanks for that last post Chuck. That took care of a lot of questions I had. I'm just about ready to start placing orders for more parts.

I see that you mentioned a two peice drop spindle. Is there one that you reccomend? The plan is to go to disc as well. I've heard that there can be clearence issues with some. Any advice would be appreciated. Here's the plan:

CPP Mini (Church lower arms) Already purchased
Church Xmem and clamps (Chuck, you'll hear from me in a couple weeks on this)
Drop spindles
Disc
Coil-overs
Church Sway bar
16" or 17" x 7" wheels

Anyone see any problems? I had originally planned on using the orig. steering column. Are there any real advantages to going to the IDIDIT or Flaming River?
Thanks everyone!

Boyd,
As far as I know CPP makes the only 2 piece drop spindle for the 62-67 nova.

It looks like you have it all planned out very well. The advantages to the New column is ease of install, however you have a 67 so the issue with cutting the steering shaft would not apply to you. If your column is in good working order than you would have no reason to replace it...............unless you want tilt, the new Ididit's are a tilt version.

Boyd,
As far as I know CPP makes the only 2 piece drop spindle for the 62-67 nova.

It looks like you have it all planned out very well. The advantages to the New column is ease of install, however you have a 67 so the issue with cutting the steering shaft would not apply to you. If your column is in good working order than you would have no reason to replace it...............unless you want tilt, the new Ididit's are a tilt version.

Tilt would be nice to have, I guess after this conversion it would not be a difficult swap being that the steering box is already removed. Cool, thanks for the info. I was getting worried that I wanted too much.

Thanks for that last post Chuck. That took care of a lot of questions I had. I'm just about ready to start placing orders for more parts.

I see that you mentioned a two peice drop spindle. Is there one that you reccomend? The plan is to go to disc as well. I've heard that there can be clearence issues with some. Any advice would be appreciated. Here's the plan:

CPP Mini (Church lower arms) Already purchased
Church Xmem and clamps (Chuck, you'll hear from me in a couple weeks on this)
Drop spindles
Disc
Coil-overs
Church Sway bar
16" or 17" x 7" wheels

Anyone see any problems? I had originally planned on using the orig. steering column. Are there any real advantages to going to the IDIDIT or Flaming River?
Thanks everyone!

Don't forget your steering shaft, knuckles, steering arms and tie rod ends. I know Chuck mentioned them above, and he can supply most of it. NAPA has the ends, get the ones that are 40 bucks (269-2759 NAPA)
....little more money, but heavier duty...


If you use an IDIDIT column, you can reuse the firewall collar for your 67 with some mods, or Chuck can also send you one. Yes you can get it cheaper for about 4 bucks, but one stop shopping is much easier, and saves you the additional shipping.

T,

Don't forget your steering shaft, knuckles, steering arms and tie rod ends. I know Chuck mentioned them above, and he can supply most of it. NAPA has the ends, get the ones that are 40 bucks (269-2759 NAPA)
....little more money, but heavier duty...


If you use an IDIDIT column, you can reuse the firewall collar for your 67 with some mods, or Chuck can also send you one. Yes you can get it cheaper for about 4 bucks, but one stop shopping is much easier, and saves you the additional shipping.

T,

Is Napa the preferred place for all of the extra components? I'm in a time/money pinch so I may hold off on the Ididit until later. Found out a week ago that we're having another baby. :eek: I'm trying to get it all back on the road by early/mid summer. Don't know if it's going to happen, but I'm going to try.

See Novanutcases' thread on Autozone......:eek:

They got the rack for me in two days, and had the tie rod ends in stock. Usually they can get small items the same/next day.....I use NAPA for almost everything, but then the folks at the store by me are "Parts" guys...but anyone can get the parts....most of them use the same suppliers...

Wattaya trying to do, fill that wagon up with chilluns by the time you get it finished......:D

T,

See Novanutcases' thread on Autozone......:eek:

They got the rack for me in two days, and had the tie rod ends in stock. Usually they can get small items the same/next day.....I use NAPA for almost everything, but then the folks at the store by me are "Parts" guys...but anyone can get the parts....most of them use the same suppliers...

Wattaya trying to do, fill that wagon up with chilluns by the time you get it finished......:D

T,

Yeah, I read Nutcase's thread, I was laughing pretty hard. I've gotta' find me some of that 20 HP wire!

As for fillin' the wagon, I'm thinking now I should've got the 9 seater! :yes:

The pregnancy was a suprise, I was happy with just the two (Nicholas and the Nova.)

Oh lord, please forgive me for this question that I am about to ask. :pray:

What is a Chevelle steering arm? Is this the Idler arm? Anybody have the Napa part number for this?

Sorry for a dumb question. :o

Hey, there are no dumb questions on this site:no: I have already tried that several times:D The steering arms are what your outer tie rod ends attach to.
If you look onder you car from the front you will see them behind your wheels.
Have someone turn the steering whell back and forth for you and you will see how it all works.

Hey, there are no dumb questions on this site:no: I have already tried that several times:D The steering arms are what your outer tie rod ends attach to.
If you look onder you car from the front you will see them behind your wheels.
Have someone turn the steering whell back and forth for you and you will see how it all works.

O.k., I had a hunch that was the part, thanks. Now where I can I find a set of these?

CPP sells them http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/Misc/Misc.htm.
Scroll down the page and you will see them.
You can try your local scrap yard... if they have some old stuff, I believe you need 64-72 Chevelle steering arms.
Or perhaps give Walt a shout at http://www.classicnova.com/

Oh lord, please forgive me for this question that I am about to ask. :pray:

What is a Chevelle steering arm? Is this the Idler arm? Anybody have the Napa part number for this?

Sorry for a dumb question. :o


That is what is referred to as a 2 piece spindle. Some Nova spindles have the steering arm built on to it, non removable. You will turn the Chevelle arms around to the front, as the factory is rear steer. In the photo, it is the part the tie rod end is attached to. I am pretty sure it is 66 to 72 Chevelle, but don't have the number.

T,

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/138.jpg

CPP sells them http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/Misc/Misc.htm.
Scroll down the page and you will see them.
You can try your local scrap yard... if they have some old stuff, I believe you need 64-72 Chevelle steering arms.
Or perhaps give Walt a shout at http://www.classicnova.com/
Perfect! Thanks! I'll see if I can get them through Walt. He's been my source in the area so far. I found a pair on "EPAY" for 100.00.

I do have a wrecking yard with old stuff nearby but I refuse to shop there again. About a year ago they wanted $150.00 for a rear door from a 66/67. The problem is that they had like 8 of them, and still do the last time I checked.

That is what is referred to as a 2 piece spindle. Some Nova spindles have the steering arm built on to it, non removable. You will turn the Chevelle arms around to the front, as the factory is rear steer. In the photo, it is the part the tie rod end is attached to. I am pretty sure it is 66 to 72 Chevelle, but don't have the number.

T,



I had not realized that there was a difference until today. Thanks again everyone. You guys have always been a wealth of great information. NPHNP:yes:

The steering arms you will need are not available from the parts stores. They are off of the 64-72 GM "A" body cars or the easiest to describe, chevelle.

We have them available all you have to do is ask for them when ordering unless you aquire a set from a salvage yard.

I got those with the kit didn’t I? I think so, I better go open that box again:cool:.

Looks like some of you guys have been doing a lot of work. I have been locked out for a few days and working on my car and some others just caching up a little today. Keep up the good work.

Hey all,

I'm currently in the middle of my steering and suspension conversion. I have the CPP mini s-frame kit with the church arms and coil over shocks from cpp. The plan is to use my stock column because my car has all of the stock interior and I like the look it has. I just cut the steering shaft just above the steering box and I am getting ready to trim the column back some. When I purchased all of my parts, I ordered the recommended steering joints for the Church conversion. The female end on the top joint that connects to the steering shaft is splined (Iditit column). Would it be recommended to cut the shaft to the appropriate length and then take it to a machine shop to get it splined or to get another type of joint? I know there are other guys on here that have used there stock columns. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Beau

Your best solution would be to exchange the upper joint for something more adaptable to your column.I think a 3/4 bore joint would work but you need to measure the diameter of you existing shaft.Then you would just mark and dimple the shaft and install the U-joint.

Hey all,

I'm currently in the middle of my steering and suspension conversion. I have the CPP mini s-frame kit with the church arms and coil over shocks from cpp. The plan is to use my stock column because my car has all of the stock interior and I like the look it has. I just cut the steering shaft just above the steering box and I am getting ready to trim the column back some. When I purchased all of my parts, I ordered the recommended steering joints for the Church conversion. The female end on the top joint that connects to the steering shaft is splined (Iditit column). Would it be recommended to cut the shaft to the appropriate length and then take it to a machine shop to get it splined or to get another type of joint? I know there are other guys on here that have used there stock columns. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Beau

For re-using the stock column in a 62-66 you will need a 3/4-dd to 3/4-dd joint. Once you have the shaft trimmed to length you will grind 2 flats on the end of the shaft. The end result will look just like the 18" steering shaft that you would have purchased to connect the column to the rack.

In a stock column my understanding is once the steering shaft is cut above the steering box it will then need to be centered and supported by a bushing (or bearing) located near the end of the column.

Is my understanding correct or am I "missing something"?

Maybe I shouldn't ask the question that way...

You have a very good understanding. The 67 column was the only one that was supported by a bearing at the end of the column. For the conversion on a 62-66 there are bushings that can be purchased to support the steering shaft in the column housing.

Will two flats at the end of the steering shaft mated to the appropiate u-joint offer the same strength as a splined shaft / u-joint connection?

Please understand my anxiety as the strength of this connection is vital to vehicle (and personal) longevity.

Thanks...

You will ultimately end up with a 3/4 DD steering shaft going from the steering column Joint to the rack Joint. I can't speak of the engineering behind the splined vs. DD set up. However the DD version is obviously taking away more material from the shaft.

The DD shaft going from the column to the rack is a strong piece and it is 18" long. What you would end up with on the end of the column would be a 2-4 inch modified section. My "personal opinion" is that you will have no problems. That being said if it is still a concern and can afford it you could get a replacemnt shaft from Walt at Classic Nova & Performance, or a new column with a splined shaft.

but has a group buy price been requested? i'm interested in the whole setup (including crossmemeber) but kind of low on cash. thanks.

but has a group buy price been requested? i'm interested in the whole setup (including crossmemeber) but kind of low on cash. thanks.


There has been no requests from any "Groups" of people as of yet. There are ways to reduce some of the costs. Anyone can contact me via. PM, email, or phone.

but has a group buy price been requested? i'm interested in the whole setup (including crossmemeber) but kind of low on cash. thanks.

Everybody's already bought one....AND got it installed..........cept you......:wow:


T,
Duckin from Joey.....

Everybody's already bought one....AND got it installed..........cept you......:wow:


T,
Duckin from Joey.....

And me:D.....:D Mine is in the works, in slow motion. :cool:

And me:D.....:D Mine is in the works, in slow motion. :cool:

Me too:D:D

And me:D.....:D Mine is in the works, in slow motion. :cool:

Me too:D:D


Dang slackers...what are ya'll waitin' on.....:D

Don't forget...we need pictures...

T,

Dang slackers...what are ya'll waitin' on.....:D

Don't forget...we need pictures...

T,

I'm waiting on funds :turn: ...... I have some stuff

Both you guys have seen the Slow Motion thread of mine.:yes:. I am working on the side thread and almost have the column shift section off :rolleyes:. Apparently there is a pin that needs to be punched out in order for the shifter section to be removed. Things should start moving again, lets hope:D

The economy in combination with a lack of a job as of Friday:turn: has put a small crimp in my plans. :rolleyes:

Dang it anyway....

I just took my stock column and replaced the shaft in it to put a removable steering wheel on,You will have to dd then of the shaft the shaft is .750 and the dd is .550 so you will have to remove a .100 thousands from each side. if i have time tonight I will try and post some pics of my mock up. Chuck I will try and send you some pics also I have made 3 of them the last one I put a grease fitting in it.

Jim
Beyer Motorsports,LLC

I just took my stock column and replaced the shaft in it to put a removable steering wheel on,You will have to dd then of the shaft the shaft is .750 and the dd is .550 so you will have to remove a .100 thousands from each side. if i have time tonight I will try and post some pics of my mock up. Chuck I will try and send you some pics also I have made 3 of them the last one I put a grease fitting in it.

Jim
Beyer Motorsports,LLC

Send Chuck pictures?? What about the rest of us? Come on Jim we like pics here on Steves!!:D Serve em up.

Dang slackers...what are ya'll waitin' on.....:D

Don't forget...we need pictures...

T,

Waiting on headers (being re coated) and steering column I'll order soon and this weekend I will paint my new oil pan hot pink:devil::eek:and install it and the starter. and I will post lots of pix:yes:

Sweet!!! Now you got me thinking, should I send my header out to get re coated?:confused:? Probably, its out and not doing anything right now:cool: Thx you making me spend more money:D

Iam trying guys had to plow snow last night again we were just to get a trace and got 4". Then got and can't get the pic's down size to get them to past but can e-mail them in the right size it's a new camrea for xmas I will try again tonight. Oh snowing here again today.

I will keep trying

Thanks Jim

Everybody's already bought one....AND got it installed..........cept you......:wow:


T,
Duckin from Joey.....

well, i don't have the funds you have mister! :D but i do agree, i do lag in my projects!!!!

Here is what Joe is going to install.........exept I think that maybe some of the components may end up.....PINK. Oh! the color of the car may not be as pictured below.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1219.jpg

OH (insert profanity of choice here!) Chuck! THAT LOOKS SWEET!!! I see you got away from the 1 piece cross plate? Figured there's enough strength in the factory cross member? There should be no problem with that! Adjustability?? Deaang!! You went all out!

Man them lower arm's look so good. I like them. Sorry for being gone for so long no power we are iced in here. Running on Generator here. Got hit in the head with a limb off a tree took me out for a few days back now. Thans are looking good here. Me I have tree down all over the place.

Well here are the pics of the stock lower column saver i made. I have Chuck's rack and pinion setup but I am going to a quick release steering wheel so I had to put a new shaft in my stock column and made the lower support I will have to dd the shaft yet on the mill. The other saver I made has a grease fitting in it. and the split bushing is to take it from 1 7/8 down to 1 3/4. If you look at the column it has a snap ring holding the shaft from pulling up or you could use the 3/4" collier.
http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/33451/2893641100053959750S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2893641100053959750OzFBPt)

http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/43462/2655774610053959750S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2655774610053959750fDjlEY)

http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/22860/2150415300053959750S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2150415300053959750sSMJYS)

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/41392/2445481840053959750S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2445481840053959750vSeKIl)

Here are a few more pics the button screw holds the lower column saver into the stock column

Here they are a set of prototype tubular Church Boys lower control arms. Intoduced to the members of SNS first! Adjustable, free range of motion with absolutely no binding with more positive caster adjustment than you will ever need. These will replace the original forward strut rods and can be used with or without our Rack/Pinion conversion as well. Available in approx. 4-5 weeks. Again these are actually the prototype arms, all finished arms will come with new ball joints and all the necessary hardware and will be powder coated.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1387.jpg


These are actually not listed on our web site as we are doing a bit of a face lift on the site and once the new look is finished all of our "new" products will be listed with pricing.

Great!!! right after I buy the CPP lower kit.:rolleyes:.. That set up sure looks sweet! I would just powder coat those babies clear!!!

Great!!! right after I buy the CPP lower kit.:rolleyes:.. That set up sure looks sweet! I would just powder coat those babies clear!!!

I already have mine:devil:

They Look great Now I known why I have waited to change mine over.

I already have mine:devil:

OK NOW I AM MAD!!!!! No I am not no power here anyway could not even put them on and with 2" of ice on everything could not drive it.
Man they do look gooooooooood. VooDooII I am so jealous of guys and all that great weather out there.
Great job again Chuck.

OK NOW I AM MAD!!!!! No I am not no power here anyway could not even put them on and with 2" of ice on everything could not drive it.
Man they do look gooooooooood. VooDooII I am so jealous of guys and all that great weather out there.
Great job again Chuck.

72* out here (sounds great) but we won't have any water to wash our cars this summer:mad:

They Look great Now I known why I have waited to change mine over.

patients is a great thing:yes:

TomM you should stick with a GM pump as they run (power steering racks) a little more pressure than say a m#@tang 2 set up. I am honestly not familiar with the pressures exactly. Just make sure you stick with the same manufacture.

VoodooII, 3DTim, you guys crack me up!!! You might be on to something with all the standard arms without a use. All the welding for our products are either tig or mig welded by me. any one can alter those arms if in fact you do have access, like Tim said, to a tubing bender and a good welder.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0200.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0195.jpg



Now these are some old photos of when I altered the CPP arms so you can see in the photo that this was back before the Tubular Crossmember.

Looks like a big spacer on the steering arm? Is this needed? Im putting mine on right now. Thx

Here are some updated pictures.For you CPP guys make sure you swap/install your A-arms before yoy install the Church tubular crossmenber.The front most control arm nuts are a bi**h to get to with the crossmenber in place.I am not sure if the CPP steering stops are needed as of yet,I need to put the car down on the ground and turn lock to lock and inspect.I am asol not sure of the final steering column placement as of yet.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/steeringcolumn.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/100_0963.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/rackbottomview.jpg
Notice how close the tie rod is to being parallel to the control arm.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/rackleftfrontview.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/rackleftside.jpg

Okay well after looking at these oics I think I was putting the steering arms in the wronw way:eek: I guess they go in from the inside toward the rotor? When I took off the stock ones they went the other way...:confused:

The kit has been redesigned since the first picture.The spacers in mine are about 3/16 thick and they are only needed for the arm to clear a stock spindle.With my drop spindles I do not need any spacers.The bolts can go in either way,its your choice.

Awesome!! Thx, on to the next step...

Sorry guys I havn't been around...........Sounds like Nova404 stepped in for me, Thanks:yes: Like he said disregard the big spacers. The supplied 3/16" spacers are only for giving some clearance with the spindle.

Here are some updated pictures,changing to the Churchboys rack opened up new possibilities for oil pan choices.I went with a Kevco 7 qt plus filter pan that is 7 3/4 deep.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01527.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01545.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01546.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01550.jpg


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01548.jpg
Now if I could just get my headers back.

Can now wait to get my new pan on. If I could just get the parts in for this 53 and get it off the rack.

mines headed thisa way! chuck said he'd even put an extra "sumtin sumtin" in my order. bwahahahaaha....

i'm getting stickers!!!! :devil: :yes:

Sweet Chuck!

Do you have the Ackerman and Bump steer "issues" worked out now?!

I'm glad I didn't put the CPP kit on the convertible! What else are you working on or have up your sleeve?:)

Now if I could just get my headers back.[/QUOTE]

Uhh Ummm Brian please call me there is a problem with your headers.......


I'll tell you all about it ...........


















Really something ......





Never going to belive this .......




want some tiny block huggers?........:eek:

WOw that PM came quick !!:devil:
soon very soon maybe friday !!:D

Now if I could just get my headers back.

Uhh Ummm Brian please call me there is a problem with your headers.......


I'll tell you all about it ...........


Really something ......



Never going to belive this .......


want some tiny block huggers?........:eek:[/QUOTE]

WOw that PM came quick !!:devil:
soon very soon maybe friday !!:D

........That's just wrong!!:D

Sweet Chuck!

Do you have the Ackerman and Bump steer "issues" worked out now?!

I'm glad I didn't put the CPP kit on the convertible! What else are you working on or have up your sleeve?:)


Continuous improvement..........tubular arms and billet steering arms:yes:

Well with the way the weather has been we actually had 60 deg. and lots of rain. This is good because the rain washed all of the road salt away and allowed for us to thrash on Dad's 63 out on the road. It was only 33 deg. but nice dry, clean roads.

Here are some pics.......I know a few are a bit grainy?? These are some photos of the car at the Local Chevy dealership for alignment. We removed the CPP lower control arms and installed the Church Boys Racing tubular lowers, did a quick bubble gauge alignment and then drove it to get an official alignment done.

Curves at speeds of 70-80 mph were a breeze:eek: and not to mention whipping out and passing slower cars was fun as well. Now if I can just get dad to soften the rear springs I think we would have a very plush riding nova:D

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1405.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1406.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1416.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1417.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1415.jpg

Boy they look good. What did the guy at the dealer have to say about them? In one pic looked like a new steering arm?

I agree very nice! are those the new steering arms I see?

-Justin

Yes those are the new billet steel arms that I have been working on.

The alignment guy was quit impressed with the set up and how easy it was to adjust. He even gathered a couple of different technicians to take a look at the components.

Very nice! It all looks good to me.

:yes: I have most of the stuff to do my conversion. Should have the rest next week. Going to start the break down/Disassembly this weekend! :yes:

-Justin

So how far did it change caster/camber, toe in/out etc. from the Church/CPP lowers.... Was it pretty close?

What about off angle bump steer?

And.....just exactly how hard did you thrash it?....:D

Last time I saw pictures of you "thrash" a car, it didn't have all the wheels on the ground.........:eek:


T,

So how far did it change caster/camber, toe in/out etc. from the Church/CPP lowers.... Was it pretty close?

Well since we removed the complete cpp kit everything had to be re aligned. We set the caster at 2.3 deg. + and the camber ended up at .4 deg. + the toe was in at .06 deg. Prior to heading to alignment shop we were able to get over 4 deg.+ caster.

What about off angle bump steer?

With Dad driving the car to the dealership and not having a perfect setting he pushed it pretty hard in a series of "S" turns without any adverse effects. After the alinment I drove the car home and looked for reasons to feel any bumpsteer, imperfections in the road slight slopes along bridges etc. etc. It just drove right through everything.

And.....just exactly how hard did you thrash it?....:D

Last time I saw pictures of you "thrash" a car, it didn't have all the wheels on the ground.........:eek:

Well I did keep all four wheels on the road. Most of you who have a powerful street car knows how the car can get when putting your foot to the floor and pulling out to pass a slower car.............Dad's car runs mid 12's in the quarter so it is no slouch on the street. When I planted my foot the floor the same time that I pulled out to pass it was very predictable and stable, out around and back in. In the same "S" curves, that I chased dad thru at over 80mph, I too leaned on it pretty hard and was very confident in the feel it just stuck there and asked for more.........I definately gave it more but I can't say as I may be grounded from his car:D

T,

In due time you will be able to answer the same questions..........

In due time you will be able to answer the same questions..........

Can't wait......:bounce:, hurry up and git em them ends (insert evil laugh here)..........:yes:


T,

They Look real good Now when will there be a pair on that Bad 67.

Take Care
Jim

I'll be happy just to get the car out of the shop to race!! If I can find the time I'll put a set on, but for now it will have to stay with the original design for now.................I guess my goal would be to have them on by the Good Guys Show in Columbus.

Just Not eough hours in a day to get ever thing done I know where you are coming from i just hope to do some racing this year with work and my other family that I take care of. But I won't let any thing happen to my grand kids No matter what just wish I was 20 years younger.

Take Care
Jim

:yes: nice

Here are some photos of our New Tubular control arms on Teddisnokes wagon. This car will be put thru its paces for Super Chevy. They will be doing a tech article install of this kit and will be showing this wagon as it is pushed thru the slolom coarse.

This is a picture of Chuck sr. while installing the kit.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1435.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1437.jpg

Here is another close up of the set up

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1448.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1444.jpg

Out on the highway around Pamona

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1463.jpg

Evidence of Dale's speeding!!!

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1467.jpg

We finished up the install and really pushed the car hard around the clover leafs, and whipped in and out of traffic with ease. Now it's up to Super Chevy to finish up the article and put things into print.

Very Very nice Chuck!!

What is the tubing size/wall you used for the new arms?

tubing size is 1-1/4 X .120 wall thickness........thx.

congrats Chuck:beer::beer:

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1437.jpg



Boy looks nice! I bet having that real tall guy to help worked great. Did you have a box for him to stand on HEHEHEHE.
Sorry I could not make it just got home from court. Boy that was fun.

How much has that car been lowered in the front? The A-Arms look real good.

Very nice! Good job once again Chuck!

-Justin

How much has that car been lowered in the front? The A-Arms look real good.


This car has the 2" drop spindle with stock springs.

Tim- I heard you could not make the trip. Hope to meet up with you sometime soon. The last few days of getting to know the Church's have been great for me. The wait to get my car back on the road, with their front suspension pieces finally in place, and correctly working was worth it. Even with an alignment done without any high tech equipment, I can say I'm impressed with the handling and driveability of the car. Remember, its a wagon. A bit heavier in the rear, but with that big front bar, the car really nips at the road, wanting to be drivin a bit faster (as seen by a certain picture!- hey the speedo's off calibration,I tell you!! Can't wait for the slalom testing, I'm sure it'll pull down some huge improvement numbers!!

Dale

Tim- I heard you could not make the trip. Hope to meet up with you sometime soon. The last few days of getting to know the Church's have been great for me. The wait to get my car back on the road, with their front suspension pieces finally in place, and correctly working was worth it. Even with an alignment done without any high tech equipment, I can say I'm impressed with the handling and driveability of the car. Remember, its a wagon. A bit heavier in the rear, but with that big front bar, the car really nips at the road, wanting to be drivin a bit faster (as seen by a certain picture!- hey the speedo's off calibration,I tell you!! Can't wait for the slalom testing, I'm sure it'll pull down some huge improvement numbers!!

Dale

Dale looks good to me. The more you drive it the more you will like it. I must say the sway-bar made a big improvement on mine. I am like you the better I get it handling the harder I drive it. And them guys with the little lights on top just can not under stand that I am just testing it. hahhaha

I'm running the rack and pinnion kit with CPPs upper, lower arms and their coil over kit. I have 14" wheels and GM disc breaks. What dropped spindles would work with this set up?

The only drop spindles that work are the CPP two piece design.At last check they were on back order but that was a month or so ago.If you have the Chevelle style front brake conversion the calipers will hit the upper control arms before you can turn more than a few degrees iether way been there done that.Are you having geometry issue? Churchboys has a new steering arm available to improve this if it is the case.Check the thread below

http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114434&page=4

They have then now. Walt just sent me a set.:yes:

Chuck arms may be a better way for you to go and cheaper to. His steering arms will drop your tie rod ends down an Inch.

I have the ride hight set pretty low with the coilovers so the shafts on the rack are angled up to the steering arms. I would say that the tie rod end is about 1.5 inches above the rack. The car rides pretty good but there is excessive bump steer. It's so bad that when I get into the gas hard and the transmission shifts and the nose of the car drops it affects the steering. I would like to get the steering rods on the rack as level as possible. Also, with the coilovers adjusted this low, there is only about two inches of compression travel. I am hoping that the drop spindles will solve both of these issues. Any thoughts? I do have the sway bar from Church installed also.

I was the first one in your situation.The drop spindles will solve the tie rod problem perfectly.But,they will cause issues with the calipers hitting the upper control arms (CPPtubular) before you can turn to full lock.What front brakes are you using?The early style Chevelle discs brakes are underivable with drop spindles and CPP upper arms,it will not turn very far.If you have CPP's zero offset style front brakes using the standard caliper bracket the caliper will hit the upper arm before you get to full lock on the rack but it is drivable.CPP has a new bracket to lower The caliper back to the stock location for their drop spindles now.I would contact Chuck about his new steering arms because it would be your least expensive way to go.

How much do the new steering arms cost? If I raise the front suspesnsion 1/2 inch and install the new steering arms. My problems should be solved.

The billet arms are $185 to purchase or a $125 up grade if you purchased the Chevelle arms from him.


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/billetarm.jpg

You should be fine with these arms and raising your car slightly.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/paintedCBarms001.jpg

Hey!:D! Those black Church arms look sweet!:yes:!

Hey!:D! Those black Church arms look sweet!:yes:!

He painted those. But Chuck has them powder coated. I am thinking Polishing them would be cool!

Sorry Smitty I took the liberty of stealing your picture.

He painted those. But Chuck has them powder coated. I am thinking Polishing them would be cool!
Just know that they are not aluminum. And those are mine and yes they are just painted. I thought about just clear coating them as the original machined look is pretty sweet looking.

Sorry Smitty I took the liberty of stealing your picture.
No worries, just that my paint job is pretty sub par to be showing off:)

Thanks! I called Chuck yesterday afternoon and upgraded to the new arms. I'm excited to see how they change things.

Thanks to everyone who helped our fellow Nova lover while I was away from the computer :yes:

Here is a photo of a black powder coated arm shipping out 3/11/09 and the photo below it is a set sent uncoated to 3Dtim 3/10/09

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1623.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1603.jpg

These arms will enhance the performance of a stock steering vehicle. They will replace the stock lower control arm and remove the rubber mounted strut rod. They bolt up using the same factory bolt holes as the strut rod brackets did. Once the tubular lowers are installed you are then set, for when time and money permit, to install the CBR rack/pinion conversion.

What are you guys running for alignment specs?
Camber?
Caster?
Toe?

Is there any bind with the front heim joint not being in the same plane or parallel to the rear heim joint?

If they were would there be any advantage?:o

Caster :2.5 degrees positive, or what your fenders and tires will allow. ( you can get more caster than what your fender will allow.
Camber :1/4 positive
Toe :1/16 in

There is no binding, these are spherical joints that will rotate in multiple angles. This is also a plus because as you pull the wheel forward to aquire more caster the main arm pivots on the sherical joint and is not forced to operate in a binding situation.

I have been following this build and am favorably impressed. I'm new to Novas, but have already developed an extreme fondness for my 67 2DHT, despite it's steering issues. I really like the looks of the Church set-up. It will be interesting to see a few more road tests regarding bumpsteer and ackerman improvement. Hope to see the whole set-up in person at Kool April Nights next month - maybe Walt will have one on display. One more question. What about dust protection and lubrication for the heim joints on the Church Arms. I know they make good covers for most of the heim joints, didn't know if they will fit this application or if it is even an issue. Just pondering the longevity of the joints.

MTNNOVA

Welcome to the site MTNNOVA, These rod ends are not your standard peice they are chromoly and have a teflon/kevlar lining that is self cleaning and self lubricating. There are seals that can be purchased to seal off the bearning however they are a bit expensive and you would have to remove some material from the stainless side spacers for them to fit.

Chuck when you say 1/4 on the camber do you mean .25 degrees?
Are these specs for street or strip?

Again, thanks for your help in making old cars drive like new.

Chuck when you say 1/4 on the camber do you mean .25 degrees?
Are these specs for street or strip?

Again, thanks for your help in making old cars drive like new.

Yes that is in degrees. I set mine up at Zero camber for the track. At the Chevy dealership they suggested a little positive camber for street driving however if you are running road courses you want more negative camber.

Got my new Arm's Friday they look so good. Now the hard part do I powder colt them Black or Clear them. Now if I just get the 53 off the rack so I can put them on. Getting a trip planed out as soon as I get them on a good windy road. Let my hair down and drive the crap out of it.http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/3.gif
THANKS Chuck

Mine are at the coaters right now should have them by the weekend.:D:D

Chuck,

Thanks for taking the time to reply regarding the heim joints on the A-arms. You are obviously using top-notch materials. The quality doesn't all show in the pictures. GREAT STUFF!!:yes:

MTNNOVA

Chuck,

Thanks for taking the time to reply regarding the heim joints on the A-arms. You are obviously using top-notch materials. The quality doesn't all show in the pictures. GREAT STUFF!!:yes:

MTNNOVA


You are very welcome!

When I am backing up or turning at low speeds I get a popping noise that I can feel in the floor board. I have checked to make sure that all of the A-arm bolts are tight and everything else is tight. Could it be my shock towers?
I have the church rack and pinion kit with CPP upper and lower arms and coil over kit. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Beau Taylor

How is the clearance of your DD shaft with the motor/frame mount?

When did this start to happen? You may want to check and see if the DD shaft and the end of the column do not enter past the face of the hole on the inside of the steering knuckle. The least little bit past the face will cause an interferance with the little universal, something that you could feel while turning the wheel slowly. Not sure about the thumping on the floor?

I wonder if one of the joints are being allowed to pop or overcenter to catch the side of the mount. I'll have to look and see now that I think about it. I didnt give it much thought but reading it here reminded me. It does seem like its coming from the floor but I can definitely tell its the passenger side front. Ive only got the arms and crossmember but will be ordering the sway bar and billet mounts at the beginning of the month. Im sure if anything, it may be something with our cars and how they are set up not the Church stuff. I havent heard any bay area guys mention it and there is a lot of these conversions down there.

Update on my Rack and Pinion conversion.
YEEEEEHAAAAAAAA

Finally got the car to an alignment place that knew what they were doing and it is great! Well experieced mechanic put the alignment scales on the car, looked at em. Got under, did the adjustments, looked again and had one minor adjustment. Then the toe. Took less than 15 minutes. Even centered the steering wheel perfectly.

What I did...
Rack & pinion using Churchboys weld on R&P mount
Churchboys steering arms. (I thnk they are worth it, minimize bump steer)
Ididit steering column (now with an extension to help steering shaft clear headers.)
Churchboys sway bar.
CPP lower A arm setup with the A-arms to clear the Church boys Rack and pinion.

Steering is easier than stock. I have 205 wide tires up front. No need for Power steering. (Well at least for me)

Put on a stock style pan. No more worries about clearance on some of the poor side roads.

FUN TO DRIVE ! (350, 700R4)

Now that it is aligned I can put on the CPP steering stops and the front suspension upgrade is done!

Update on my Rack and Pinion conversion.
YEEEEEHAAAAAAAA

Finally got the car to an alignment place that knew what they were doing and it is great! Well experieced mechanic put the alignment scales on the car, looked at em. Got under, did the adjustments, looked again and had one minor adjustment. Then the toe. Took less than 15 minutes. Even centered the steering wheel perfectly.

What I did...
Rack & pinion using Churchboys weld on R&P mount
Churchboys steering arms. (I thnk they are worth it, minimize bump steer)
Ididit steering column (now with an extension to help steering shaft clear headers.)
Churchboys sway bar.
CPP lower A arm setup with the A-arms to clear the Church boys Rack and pinion.

Steering is easier than stock. I have 205 wide tires up front. No need for Power steering.

Put on a stock style pan. No more worries about clearance on some of the poor side roads.

FUN TO DRIVE ! (350, 700R4)

Now that it is aligned I can put on the CPP steering stops and the front suspension upgrade is done!

Pingin ya for the usual...


Alignment specs
Details\pics of this steering shaft extension?
Obligatory setup pic (or substitute burnout picture):cool::devil:

Pingin ya for the usual...


Alignment specs
Details\pics of this steering shaft extension?
Obligatory setup pic (or substitute burnout picture):cool::devil:


Here you go. See my web page on the nova for a few more details of the upgrade and the pictures. Nova_page (http://mysite.verizon.net/vhubbard9/novapics/nova_pics.htm)

Alignment specs Good for the street. Basic specs from what I understand.
Camber 0 to 1/4 degree
Caster 1.5 to 2.5 degrees. Whatever they can get, just keep both sides close to the same. Depends on various tolerance stack ups how close they can get to 2.5
Toe 1/16 in.
The very experienced mechanic looked at them once and said OK. No fancy computer so I can't give you a readout of what it is. It now drives nice on the street.

A picture with the stance etc, maybe when it stops raining around here.

Here you go. See my web page on the nova for a few more details of the upgrade and the pictures. Nova_page (http://mysite.verizon.net/vhubbard9/novapics/nova_pics.htm)

Alignment specs Good for the street. Basic specs from what I understand.
Camber 0 to 1/4 degree
Caster 1.5 to 2.5 degrees. Whatever they can get, just keep both sides close to the same. Depends on various tolerance stack ups how close they can get to 2.5
Toe 1/16 in.
The very experienced mechanic looked at them once and said OK. No fancy computer so I can't give you a readout of what it is. It now drives nice on the street.

A picture with the stance etc, maybe when it stops raining around here.

Wow you did a number to your header tube!:eek:

Wow you did a number to your header tube!:eek:

Sad headers I know. Too many mockups and changes. I started with cheap ones. Now the front end is done, on to some good ones, once the cash builds up again.:D

Here are some latest pictures of the trick CBR lower arms

Alignment
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01646.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01687.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01689.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01690.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01692.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01693.jpg

very nice, what pan is that and how low is it? My milodon full length drag pan is like 8 1/4 deep.:eek:.. Looks like one of those driver side tubes gets real close to the pan:eek:

Hey Nova404 that looks great! Hey those are some cool sway bar brackets/bushing you got! You got all the cool stuff!

-Justin

The header is not as close as it looks,it tucks in above the sump.It is 7 3/4 deep and made by Kevco.It holds 7 quarts of oil and if you buy a pan from the you need to use a lot of silicone to avoid leaks.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01578.jpg

Super cool! That looks awesome!! :notworthy:

Lots of Silicon if it is like mine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0390.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/DSC_0392.jpg

what pan is that Tim? Looks nice and shallow.

I need something like that. Either 404's or Tim's. Here is mine:eek: and thats B 4 I lowered it a tad.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/Rideheight020.jpg

It is a Kevco pan also. 7" Deep hold 8gt's.

Just watched "how its made" on tv and they actually had Ididit on. They showed the process for making the columns. Some good products. It will be rerun Im sure. JR

How cool is that......me and the boys like to watch that show all the time, can't believe we missed that one!

what pan is that Tim? Looks nice and shallow.

I need something like that. Either 404's or Tim's. Here is mine:eek: and thats B 4 I lowered it a tad.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/Rideheight020.jpg

Milodon has a real nice 7.5in deep pan:yes:

Milodon has a real nice 7.5in deep pan:yes:

whats the part number? I cant seem to find it. Is it for a stroker?

whats the part number? I cant seem to find it. Is it for a stroker?

yes it's for a stroker check their web site, I will find it tomorrow:yes:

is it a full length? i just found two that are 7 1/2 at the rear. nice!!!
http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/drag-race-sbchevy-oil-pans.asp

I have the 31065. Not real sure the difference but there are two others, the 31145 and the 31170. No mention of stroker clearance??

is it a full length? i just found two that are 7 1/2 at the rear. nice!!!
http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/drag-race-sbchevy-oil-pans.asp

I have the 31065. Not real sure the difference but there are two others, the 31145 and the 31170. No mention of stroker clearance??

Call Milodon I would imagine that either on would work:yes::yes: