Steering rack and Ididit column

Very cool Tim! CONGRATULATIONS!!

Tim you have to be on cloud 9!! Hopefully you scared the guy enough he will put it in the mag. real soon. Did you ask for a couple boxes of the article? I know of one "3DTim Fan" that wants a couple. Congratulations Tim!!

Thanks guys my head is so big right now. The guy that did the shoot did not know when it would be out. He did a lot of cool shots so I am real happy with it.
VOODOOII I showed him your car and 63n0vatuckin20s some of the others on the site and he took some info on you cars . So you never know.

Thanks guys my head is so big right now. The guy that did the shoot did not know when it would be out. He did a lot of cool shots so I am real happy with it.
VOODOOII I showed him your car and 63n0vatuckin20s some of the others on the site and he took some info on you cars . So you never know.

Tim your my new best friend:yes::yes:

Tim

Congrats on the photo shoot. I know you are proud and you should be. You have one bad looking car.

CONGRATS:wow::notworthy:
Thats every Nova lovers dream:yes: I not only want a copy, but i want a signed copy:bounce:a signed copy:bounce:a signed copy:bounce:

CONGRATS:wow::notworthy:
Thats every Nova lovers dream:yes: I not only want a copy, but i want a signed copy:bounce:a signed copy:bounce:a signed copy:bounce:
You got it!:yes:

A small amount of abuse for the Church Boys Racing rack and pinion conversion.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/67nova001-1.jpg

A small amount of abuse for the Church Boys Racing rack and pinion conversion.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/67nova001-1.jpg

Man that thing leaves hard!!:yes:

A small amount of abuse for the Church Boys Racing rack and pinion conversion.

How much for THAT conversion kit?? :D

A small amount of abuse for the Church Boys Racing rack and pinion conversion.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/67nova001-1.jpg

Hold it right there I will get a wrench and change the oil. Sure looks good.
I did my car one time like that. Had to put on a new oil pan and the track guys were not happy with me.

You already have the crossmember, you still need the billet clamps 285.00, steering arms 50.00, steering shaft and 2 steering knuckles 161.90, rack and outer tie rods 237.00. Call or email with any questions!How much for THAT conversion kit?? :D

How much for THAT conversion kit?? :D
You will NOT be sorry at all. Best move I made on mine.:yes:

You will NOT be sorry at all. Best move I made on mine.:yes:

I was referring to the beast under the hood that lifts the R&P kit that high into the air. I want one of those TOO! :D

I'll just settle for lifting the front end on jack stands while I install Church Boys parts. :yes:

Thanks Tim for the offer I am going to need all the help I can get. Dad and myself received phone calls Saturday to participate in PINKS ALLOUT in 2 weeks!I hope that we can make the highlights!!!

Awesome!! Keep us posted on the Pinks All Out!!:D

Thanks Tim for the offer I am going to need all the help I can get. Dad and myself received phone calls Saturday to participate in PINKS ALLOUT in 2 weeks!I hope that we can make the highlights!!!

Thats great news Chuck, wish I lived closer, pinks all out will be in Sonoma in September.

I was referring to the beast under the hood that lifts the R&P kit that high into the air. I want one of those TOO! :D

I'll just settle for lifting the front end on jack stands while I install Church Boys parts. :yes:

you will have to check with your local Donovan, Brodix,Crowler,lunati,Jesel,J&E and APD carbs dealers for the latest pricing!!

I found my oil wrench now get it back up in the air and I will change the oil for you hahahehehaha.

I just wanted to let everybody know that you can get the church a-arms through Summit Racing now. I ordered the mini-sub frame kit and had the guys at summit contact CPP to put the Church arms in the kit. The Church arms are now in Summit's system. You can save quite a bit on shipping this way. They also price match. I got the entire kit delivered for 380.00.

I just wanted to let everybody know that you can get the church a-arms through Summit Racing now. I ordered the mini-sub frame kit and had the guys at summit contact CPP to put the Church arms in the kit. The Church arms are now in Summit's system. You can save quite a bit on shipping this way. They also price match. I got the entire kit delivered for 380.00.

Thankyou very much for the information as this was something that I myself was not aware of at this time. I appreciate you taking the time to let everyone in on how to save a little on their projects. This is also exciting for us here at Church Boys Racing LLC. to know that our name is now being associated with two big names, Summit Racing and CPP!!!!

HAHAHA Very good news. Jegs is also putting it in there system to. I called today and asked after reading it here. The more outlets the better for everyone. I tried to get a part number but he said it would be in there soon.

Perfect timing, I'm just about to pull the trigger on the Church/CPP conversion!

Cantdrive, do you have a Summit part #, and who's selling this for $380, so I can price match it too?

Thanks-
Jeff

Jeff,

They sell the kit on classicnova.com for $380.00. I don't have the part number for the Church arms, but I'm sure if you talk to one of the customer service agents at Summit they will be able to make it happen. I believe they put them in the system as "Church arms." I'm doing all of this from Iraq, so I haven't been able to see the parts yet. I hope this helps.

Great, thanks for the help, be careful over there!

I tried this morning to find out what the part number is for the Church Boys version of the CPP arms. I called Summit here in Ohio and the sales person was not very informed on the entire CPP line of products. When I asked about the Church Boys version he said I had to call CPP for the parts. He then noticed my name on the Caller ID and proceeded to tell me " It sounds to me like you are trying to get some free publicity thru us on your new product, you will have to call CPP" a little miffed I politely told him "thankyou for your time" and then hung up the phone. So tomorrow I will call CPP and find out if their numbers are the same as the ones Summit and Jegs will be using.

i have a question: the conversion consists of a steering column. why wouldn't i be able to use mine and what are the specs on the column...tilt, brand,color, a/t or m/t....

another thing. i need some stock height springs and want to go to 1.5" or 2" spindles (whichever are being made). i also want to go with the CPP deluxe (lower arms) kit. would it be best to do this all at once, or can it be done seperately. is the motor required to be removed, or just suggested? and....on a scale of 1(easy peasy)-10(hahaha!huh?) what is the difficulty level for an ok ?mechanic? like myself.

thanks..i'm really really considering this kit from you's guyses.

Joy3 thankyou for the questions. Yes you can use your stock column you will have to cut your steering shaft that connects to the steering box so that you can connect a steering knuckle to it. We supply an Ididit column that is a tilt and is paintable. The kit will work with the dropped spindles and yes you can do this in steps. I personally have not removed the steering column with an engine in the way but it has been done, this will be the hardest part of the entire conversion. Once the steering box is out of the way every thing bolts right in. I would rate this install at a 5 because of the removal of the steering shaft and box. With all the parts in front of you it wouldn't be hard to finish this conversion in a weekend, start to finish. Give your question a little time and a few members may chime in with their .02 on the ease of install. Thanks again and feel free to contact me if you have any other concerns.

i have a question: the conversion consists of a steering column. why wouldn't i be able to use mine and what are the specs on the column...tilt, brand,color, a/t or m/t....

another thing. i need some stock height springs and want to go to 1.5" or 2" spindles (whichever are being made). i also want to go with the CPP deluxe (lower arms) kit. would it be best to do this all at once, or can it be done seperately. is the motor required to be removed, or just suggested? and....on a scale of 1(easy peasy)-10(hahaha!huh?) what is the difficulty level for an ok ?mechanic? like myself.

thanks..i'm really really considering this kit from you's guyses.

Will I was the first and it is a cake walk. Like Chuck said the hard part it the column. I did mine with the motor in the car too. You will need to get the car way up in the air to get it out it all come out in one piece after removing the steering wheel. You will also need to lift the driver side motor mount just a little to clear the steering box when removing it and that is the hard part. The rest is just remove and replace. Make sure to check your alinement when you are done. This can be done in a weekend with no big deal at all. Like I said the hard part is the column and it is not that bad. Just take your time. I did it in one day but I have a lift witch was nice not needed but nice. I will check back in later and see if you need to ask anything else.

If you are going to do it a little at a time make sure that you get the CPP kit with the correct arms so you do not have to change them and reailgn later.

Okay, I should have some cool stuff on my porch today when I get home :D I was originally thinking of waiting till the winter to do the up grade. From the sound of it I may be able to tackle it sooner and still have the car on the road for the summer cruises. My biggest concern now is the steering box and shaft. 3DTim, so how exactly did you get the box and shaft out? Should we start a new thread or just keep trucking with this one? Maybe a Q&A Church Boys thread. Thx Smitty

Here is what I know at this time. When ordering the Church Boys version of lower control arms the part number is 6267 TCA-KS-CB. This translates to 62-67 tubular control arm-kit silver-church boys. Or KB for kit black. This is the part number directly from CPP.

Okay, I should have some cool stuff on my porch today when I get home :D I was originally thinking of waiting till the winter to do the up grade. From the sound of it I may be able to tackle it sooner and still have the car on the road for the summer cruises. My biggest concern now is the steering box and shaft. 3DTim, so how exactly did you get the box and shaft out? Should we start a new thread or just keep trucking with this one? Maybe a Q&A Church Boys thread. Thx Smitty
Really it is not that big of a deal. Take the wheel off and remove the two bolts under the dash and unplug the wiring. Now get the car up in the air. Take the two bolts from the driver side motor mount remove the tie rod ends and take the three bolts out of the steering box. Jack the motor up a little and remove the box and column all at one time. The higher you can get the car the better "BUT PLEASE BE SAFE". Here is my number if anyone wants to ask more 270-934-3971 I am home most of the time.

Here is what I know at this time. When ordering the Church Boys version of lower control arms the part number is 6267 TCA-KS-CB. This translates to 62-67 tubular control arm-kit silver-church boys. Or KB for kit black. This is the part number directly from CPP.

From what I am being told at Summit, they are no longer handling the CPP line of products at this time. If you need the Church Boys version of control arms either call CPP or Classic Nova & Performance.

I was able to take a good look at the sway bar placement this evening and it looks like it will be a pretty straight forward set up. I will be working a lot more on this end of the project at the beginning of the week as we are getting things in order for the Pinks All Out event this weekend!

Really it is not that big of a deal. Take the wheel off and remove the two bolts under the dash and unplug the wiring. Now get the car up in the air. Take the two bolts from the driver side motor mount remove the tie rod ends and take the three bolts out of the steering box. Jack the motor up a little and remove the box and column all at one time. The higher you can get the car the better "BUT PLEASE BE SAFE". Here is my number if anyone wants to ask more 270-934-3971 I am home most of the time.

Got the boxes from Chuck last night:D Thx 3DTim, do you think putting the car up on ramps will be high enough? I will probably be callin ya, thx again.

Got the boxes from Chuck last night:D Thx 3DTim, do you think putting the car up on ramps will be high enough? I will probably be callin ya, thx again.

That may be ok. I really that it will. Have you got a floor jack that will get the car a little higher if needed. I do not think you will need it but it would be nice to have it there if you did need it. Once you clear the motor mount it will come right out. Don't do like I did and let it fall on your head "Ouch".

From what I am being told at Summit, they are no longer handling the CPP line of products at this time. If you need the Church Boys version of control arms either call CPP or Classic Nova & Performance.

I was able to take a good look at the sway bar placement this evening and it looks like it will be a pretty straight forward set up. I will be working a lot more on this end of the project at the beginning of the week as we are getting things in order for the Pinks All Out event this weekend!

That was a good move by CPP, dealers like Classic nova and Performance are the back bone of this industry and with companies like Summit it makes it very hard for the small business to survive:yes:

That was a good move by CPP, dealers like Classic nova and Performance are the back bone of this industry and with companies like Summit it makes it very hard for the small business to survive:yes:

You are so right on that. Now if some of the others like Chevy2only will just start carrying the kits it would be nice.

Found the perfect oil pan for Chucks conversion, Kevco Racing makes it, cost is 150.00 and has a depth of 7 inches, check out their web site.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc110/voodooII/1074_thumb.gif

Oh Joe ???

Found the perfect oil pan for Chucks conversion, Kevco Racing makes it, cost is 150.00 and has a depth of 7 inches, check out their web site.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc110/voodooII/1074_thumb.gif

Sweet!!!:D now thats good to go for a stroker 383 motor?

Looks like I may have to get out the check book:yes: And the wife said:no: What to do what to do:turn:

Looks like I may have to get out the check book:yes: And the wife said:no: What to do what to do:turn:

Like a good friend of mine always says, better to ask for forgiveness then for permission:devil::devil:

Like a good friend of mine always says, better to ask for forgiveness then for permission:devil::devil:

hahhhahah here here

A pair of Church Boys Racing rack and pinions at the Pinks All Out event.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/pinksallout0802.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/pinksallout0812.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/pinksallout0822.jpg

Dad's car ran 12.50's and I went 9.60's, they picked a ten flat e.t. group. I have almost 300 photos to go thru and I will post more in the proper area.

A pair of Church Boys Racing rack and pinions at the Pinks All Out event.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/pinksallout0802.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/pinksallout0812.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/pinksallout0822.jpg

Dad's car ran 12.50's and I went 9.60's, they picked a ten flat e.t. group. I have almost 300 photos to go thru and I will post more in the proper area.

Looks like you treed your dad pretty good,

It does appear that way but my car leaves so much harder that he could have a better reaction and look late.

SWEET How bad did your dad beat you. HEHEHEHAHAHAHEHE:yes:

According to the anouncer by 3 seconds!! He had us mixed up.

Great Job Chuck Just want to let everyone know Churchboys racing is Great to Work with and the parts are great also Thanks Chuck

Jim

Guys, I got my parts yesterday:D. This is great high quality stuff. Hats off to Chuck Church. He was quick to respond to my numerous pms, and was quick with shipping as well.
Thanks
Greg

not trying to jump the gun, but i thought i read in one of these posts you mentioned a price for this nova site....

Thankyou Jim, and Greg it has been nice dealing with you guys!! If you have any questions please contact me at any time!!

Yes I am also working with the SNS members on the price at the present time. On another note my deadline for the swaybar set up is going to be the middle of July and I hope to showcase the swaybar with the rest of the Church Boys R&P conversion at the Good Guys show in Columbus Ohio.

if i wanted to go in stages for now and get the CPP minisub kit first...could i get the church a-arms and be ok with it? or do i need to use the Church arms WITH the rack/pinion kit at same time?

also...i don't remember reading, but is this a power setup? if i bought this, what else will i need to buy in order to make it work going from a manual steering to a power rack and pinion?

thanks.

Hi Chuck jun and sen,

just wanted to say that all of the stuff you sent me arrived safely over here in Europe to hopefully do the first conversion "in the old world".
As I see it, it is all extremely good quality, looks very solid and functional. Thanks for all the help so far and please keep up the good work!
Now, just waiting for the CPP arms in black to arrive...

Greetz
Boris

Boris thankyou for the update I'm gland to hear everything made it o.k.. If you are in need of anything else nova related check with Walt at Classic Nova & Performance, he is very good to work with and very knowlegable!

jo3y1nf4nt3, you can use the Church Boys version of arms without changing anything and Then purchace the rack/Pinion conversion later. This was originally a manual rack set up I should be receiving a power rack today so that I can make the proper clamps to hold the rack. If you were to go with a power rack you will need to have hoses made to go from your pump to the rack. I will know more about the hoses once I get the rack in front of me. You can also put the R&P kit on first and them purchase the CPP kit later. Both kits work well together but neither is needed for the other to work.

ok gotcha..but.. i think you meant to say that the church arms must be used if the R/P conversion is going to be used in a future use....or the church arms can be used by themselves...

ok, well, i'm not sure if i ever dealt with a rack and pinion but the other day i was at a pick-your-part type place and saw a chevette. it was on blocks and NOT running. i reached inside to turn the wheel since i knew some people use those to convert to RP in their novas. well, it turned easy and i was like :yes: . so, if it wasn't running (on) (a.) why did it turn so easy (2.) would that be considered manual RP at that point? and (c.) how much difference would power R/P be over manual R/P and Manual PS?

sorry for all the ?'s.... i'm just wondering if i should go to man. or power R/P or just work out and stick to Man. PS! lol

thanks again.

Ask all you want! That is the only way to know for sure what to do. Yes you need the church boys arms to work with the church boys conversion, both kits will also work without the other as a stand alone kit. As for the chevette in the junk yard, that is very much how it will feel in your nova. Compared to the stock steering the manual rack turns easier! The price difference from me should be the same , however I will not know till later today when I pick up a power rack, I may have to design a different clamp.

I went to th Hot Rod Reunion had a ball. Talked to a lot of people on the conversion. Talked to some people form up your way and they said they were going to call this week. Took an Ohio state trooper for a ride he has a Nova and is thinking of doing the conversion scared the crap out of him. I hope some call.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Hot%20Rod%20Renunion/IMG_2745.jpg

I went to th Hot Rod Reunion had a ball. Talked to a lot of people on the conversion. Talked to some people form up your way and they said they were going to call this week. Took an Ohio state trooper for a ride he has a Nova and is thinking of doing the conversion scared the crap out of him. I hope some call.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Hot%20Rod%20Renunion/IMG_2745.jpg

lol

WHEW!!! Thanks for the ride mister:eek:
by the way, your under arrest!

Hey Chuck!! I just got my CPP kit with the modified arms. Count me in once you figure out sns member prices. Thanks

Hey Chuck!! I just got my CPP kit with the modified arms. Count me in once you figure out sns member prices. Thanks

I am ready for ya just shoot me a PM, email novasteering@aol.com,or call 330 442-7162 est time 8am-9pm, and let me know what you need.

So Chuck, I can't remember ( my mind is turning to jello), will the swaybar work with the tubular crossmember or the factory or was there even a problem with the swaybar and the factory xmember?

So Chuck, I can't remember ( my mind is turning to jello), will the swaybar work with the tubular crossmember or the factory or was there even a problem with the swaybar and the factory xmember?

Yes there is a problem when using the CPP arms there is just no place to put the stock sway bar for our set up. I have designed a new sway bar that will work with no matter what combination you have. I should have the first prototype by the beginning of July if not sooner, and then I can double check the fitment. This is just one more element that will make this conversion that much more complete!!

Yes there is a problem when using the CPP arms there is just no place to put the stock sway bar for our set up. I have designed a new sway bar that will work with no matter what combination you have. I should have the first prototype by the beginning of July if not sooner, and then I can double check the fitment. This is just one more element that will make this conversion that much more complete!!

And that much nicer.

Yes there is a problem when using the CPP arms there is just no place to put the stock sway bar for our set up. I have designed a new sway bar that will work with no matter what combination you have. I should have the first prototype by the beginning of July if not sooner, and then I can double check the fitment. This is just one more element that will make this conversion that much more complete!!

Dude your the greatest :devil::devil:

Hi Chuck,

please put me on the list for the sway bar when you have it up and running!

THX

Boris

Hi Chuck,

please put me on the list for the sway bar when you have it up and running!

THX

Boris


Not a problem Boris, I will add you to the list.

Here is a quick look at the powersteering rack bolted up with the prototype clamps. It is very possible that I may have some completed by the end of the week.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend002-1.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/novafrontend001-1.jpg

So what I am reading is that it won't work with a CPP 1" sway bar?

Can you tell us the cost and what the kit will include with exception of the lines?

Thanks,

It will not work with any currently produced front sway bar.Chuck is in the process of designing a bar to fit CPP Church arms with the Rack & Pinion. I am sure he will post the information here as soon as he has something.

So what I am reading is that it won't work with a CPP 1" sway bar?

Can you tell us the cost and what the kit will include with exception of the lines?

Thanks,

Nova 404 is correct this kit will not work with the CPP 1'' swaybar. I have one being developed right now that will work with the Church Boys Rack/Pinion Conversion with or without the CPP arms. I do not have a price on the swaybar just yet I will Know more in the near future (1 wk). As for the power steering rack it appears right now that I should beable to keep the price the same as the manual kit. This kit would include the proper clamps to hold the power rack to the crossmember, you would have to provide the hoses to connect your pump to the power rack, if I have a rack on hand at the time of the order I can provide that as well, and if you can locate one yourself you can save a little more going that route as well. These kits can include the tubular crossmember or the weld on mounts for you to weld to your stock crossmember, if you do not choose to use the CPP arms I can provide you with a rear mounted strut rod with heim joints that will triangulate the lower stock control arm. Please feel free to call or email me with all of your questions.

Thanks,

How will this conversion work with 'shortie' headers? It doesn't look like it will clear.

I already have the CPP upper and lower arms..

Thanks for the responses...

T,

How will this conversion work with 'shortie' headers? It doesn't look like it will clear.

I already have the CPP upper and lower arms..

Thanks for the responses...

T,

Tom I can't see any reason why the shorty headers would not work they are supposed to be a block hugger style right? There should be tons of room for them. As far as your lower control arms you will have to be using the Church Boys version from CPP for them to work with the Rack/Pinion kit.

Tom I can't see any reason why the shorty headers would not work they are supposed to be a block hugger style right? There should be tons of room for them. As far as your lower control arms you will have to be using the Church Boys version from CPP for them to work with the Rack/Pinion kit.

They look like block huggers, so cool, I can work with that.

As far as the CB version, I don't know what that is, I didn't ask for that, but just purchased the deluxe kit about three weeks ago. Is this something you have to ask for specifically, or is it standard, and what is the difference? I have a picture if you can tell by looking.

Also, can you clock the R&P on the mounts to help with the steering rod alignment?

T,


T,

Tom the Church Boys version are different from the standard CPP arm when ordering they usually shoul ask what type of steering you are using. I would guess that you do not have the Church Boys version. Here is a photo of the arms installed with the Rack conversion.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0213.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/oldcamera001.jpg

The differece between the two styles is that the forward arm dips down to clear the outer tie rod.

Nope, I have the standard version. Looks like I won't be able to use your kit after all, I'll keep looking for other alternatives.

Thanks for answering my questions.


T,

If you have not installed the lower arms I think they will exchange them for the Church arms,You will have to pay shipping both ways.Or you can purchase the Church arms seperatly and try to resell you std arms.

If you have not installed the lower arms I think they will exchange them for the Church arms,You will have to pay shipping both ways.Or you can purchase the Church arms seperatly and try to resell you std arms.


Already installed them. Don't think I'm gonna take my car apart after the struggle I just went through. Bottom arms wouldn't do much good without the plate, and I could never get out of them what I put into them..........the search continues......


T,

Thanks Tom for the consideration if I can help in any way down the road please get into contact with me.

Our sway bar is finished they will be shipping it out to me tomorrow (fri.27th) and I should have it monday or tuesday.

Our revised clamps for the powersteering set up will also be finished tomorrow.

Man you are on the ball. Are you ready for Columbus? I will be at GOOD GUYS this weekend in Nashville.

Nova 404 is correct this kit will not work with the CPP 1'' swaybar. I have one being developed right now that will work with the Church Boys Rack/Pinion Conversion with or without the CPP arms. I do not have a price on the swaybar just yet I will Know more in the near future (1 wk). As for the power steering rack it appears right now that I should be able to keep the price the same as the manual kit. This kit would include the proper clamps to hold the power rack to the crossmember, you would have to provide the hoses to connect your pump to the power rack, if I have a rack on hand at the time of the order I can provide that as well, and if you can locate one yourself you can save a little more going that route as well. These kits can include the tubular crossmember or the weld on mounts for you to weld to your stock crossmember, if you do not choose to use the CPP arms I can provide you with a rear mounted strut rod with heim joints that will triangulate the lower stock control arm. Please feel free to call or email me with all of your questions.
Thanks,

So, let me get this straight. I can use this weld on bracket with CPP arms? I have a front sump pan, does this complicate things. Your rack and mount set is the trickest one I've seen yet, I am trying to figure out a way to buy one here without taking off any parts I have purchased already............

Are you planning on selling a pump too? If not do you have the specs on what a feller would need to tie this all in?

T,

No matter what you do if you want the rack setup with CPP arms you must have the special Church arms.Chuck has his own setup with stock Nova arms and the radias rods moved to the rear.I am in the same boat as you.I bought the complete CPP arms and coil overs installed them and then Chuck comes up with the rack conversion.I went back and forth with CPP and all they will do is sell you new arms if you installed them.I bought the Church arms and they came with new cam bolts,lockout kit and new lower ball joints.I will try to sell my new/old arms to recoupe some of my money.I personaly think the improvement will be worth the added cost.I will be starting my conversion next week.

TomM, there is just no way to make this rack kit work with the original cpp lower arms as Nova404 stated they must be replaced with the Church Boys version from CPP.

I do not have a recommendation for a pump it would be what ever GM pump you choose. Once the pump and rack are mounted you would have to mock up some hoses to connect the two together. Any parts store that makes hydraulic hoses should be able to set you up with the proper fittings without a problem.

3DTim, I can say I will be ready for the columbus show but I honestly wouldn't be ready till the Night before we leave, there allways seems to be something come up at the last minute.

TomM, there is just no way to make this rack kit work with the original cpp lower arms as Nova404 stated they must be replaced with the Church Boys version from CPP.

I do not have a recommendation for a pump it would be what ever GM pump you choose. Once the pump and rack are mounted you would have to mock up some hoses to connect the two together. Any parts store that makes hydraulic hoses should be able to set you up with the proper fittings without a problem.

3DTim, I can say I will be ready for the columbus show but I honestly wouldn't be ready till the Night before we leave, there allways seems to be something come up at the last minute.

Chuck what about modifying the standard arms? something that maybe you could do?

TomM, there is just no way to make this rack kit work with the original cpp lower arms as Nova404 stated they must be replaced with the Church Boys version from CPP.

I do not have a recommendation for a pump it would be what ever GM pump you choose. Once the pump and rack are mounted you would have to mock up some hoses to connect the two together. Any parts store that makes hydraulic hoses should be able to set you up with the proper fittings without a problem.

3DTim, I can say I will be ready for the columbus show but I honestly wouldn't be ready till the Night before we leave, there allways seems to be something come up at the last minute.

Would any pump work with the rack, or does it have to be a certain pressure etc?

T,

Just look up a chevett pump and the would tell you how much pressure it needs.

Chuck what about modifying the standard arms? something that maybe you could do?

That is what Chuck did to start with. But you would need a tube bender and you need to be a good welder.

That is what Chuck did to start with. But you would need a tube bender and you need to be a good welder.

Tim is that a shot:eek:I thought Chucks dad was a good welder:yes: I was just thinking:eek: with all these spare lower arms with no resale value maybe Chuck could modify some and then do a trade out when someone wants his rack setup:yes:

TomM you should stick with a GM pump as they run (power steering racks) a little more pressure than say a m#@tang 2 set up. I am honestly not familiar with the pressures exactly. Just make sure you stick with the same manufacture.

VoodooII, 3DTim, you guys crack me up!!! You might be on to something with all the standard arms without a use. All the welding for our products are either tig or mig welded by me. any one can alter those arms if in fact you do have access, like Tim said, to a tubing bender and a good welder.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0200.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0195.jpg

Now these are some old photos of when I altered the CPP arms so you can see in the photo that this was back before the Tubular Crossmember.

Tim is that a shot:eek:I thought Chucks dad was a good welder:yes: I was just thinking:eek: with all these spare lower arms with no resale value maybe Chuck could modify some and then do a trade out when someone wants his rack setup:yes:

No I was not trying to be a smart A-- . Just if you are welding on your a-arm's you need to be a good welder. Not just a far welder. And you know I was thinking the same thing about the old arm's.

No I was not trying to be a smart A-- . Just if you are welding on your a-arm's you need to be a good welder. Not just a far welder. And you know I was thinking the same thing about the old arm's.

Chuck, I just have the utmost confidence in your abilities:devil:

Chuck, I just have the utmost confidence in your abilities:devil:

I was not talking about Chuck or his Dad welding on them. I meant if Tom was going to do it himself. I know how good Chuck and His DAD is. I have been a welder for over 30 years and they are as good as I have seen. It is something that Tom could do if he wanted to and had the skill. I do not know Tom he may be a top notch Fabe guy and if he is he can save a lot of money doing things himself.

I haven't been in touch with CPP lately, does anyone know what they have changed the prices to for just the arms?

Mine were $214 delivered to my door in Northern Cal.I thought it was about $80 each arm +tax(ca residents only)+shipping.That was a few months ago back in the confusion with Danny

Mine were $214 delivered to my door in Northern Cal.I thought it was about $80 each arm +tax(ca residents only)+shipping.That was a few months ago back in the confusion with Danny

I know Walt (classiscnova.com) was quoted more than that and he is a dealer, Tim I must have been confused, it seems to be easier since I turned 50:yes:

Joe, you should have bought them when I did, probably could have saved on shipping also. :devil:

To purchase the church boys version lower control arm from CPP it will cost you $230.00 for the pair. That is with nothing else.

To purchase the church boys version lower control arm from CPP it will cost you $230.00 for the pair. That is with nothing else.

How much to swap out the og to the Church Boys version? New never used.

Smitty you will have to call CPP and ask.In the begining they would swap if the arms were not installed.All you pay is shipping both ways.If you are in So Cal you might be able to just go there and swap them.

So far the hardest part of the conversion is removing the steering box even on the 67 with the short box the drivers side header needs to be removed or loosened up to allow enough room to get the box out. I have been told by VooDooII (Joe) that removing the drivers side frame mount makes getting the header in and out a snap.On 67 only you can use the stock lower column mount with just a small shim of sone sort.I used a rubber PVC pipe coupler and it worked perfectly.Also on 67 only it appears as though you can still use the plastic trim around the column were it goes into the dash.I will post pictures when I get some time.

So far the hardest part of the conversion is removing the steering box even on the 67 with the short box the drivers side header needs to be removed or loosened up to allow enough room to get the box out. I have been told by VooDooII (Joe) that removing the drivers side frame mount makes getting the header in and out a snap.On 67 only you can use the stock lower column mount with just a small shim of sone sort.I used a rubber PVC pipe coupler and it worked perfectly.Also on 67 only it appears as though you can still use the plastic trim around the column were it goes into the dash.I will post pictures when I get some time.

I want to drive it when your done:D

For sure post some pic's. Sounds like you are having more fun than I did.

Here are some updated pictures.For you CPP guys make sure you swap/install your A-arms before yoy install the Church tubular crossmenber.The front most control arm nuts are a bi**h to get to with the crossmenber in place.I am not sure if the CPP steering stops are needed as of yet,I need to put the car down on the ground and turn lock to lock and inspect.I am asol not sure of the final steering column placement as of yet.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/steeringcolumn.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/100_0963.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/rackbottomview.jpg
Notice how close the tie rod is to being parallel to the control arm.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/rackleftfrontview.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/rackleftside.jpg

Lookin good Brian:yes:

Sure dose!:yes:

Brian, that looks very nice!!!! I wish you were here in ohio I have a magazine guy who wants to do a photo shoot of our kit being installed and this would be perfect timing. As for the steering stops Danny Nix (CPP) discussed the stops and we elected not to put them on as the rack has a built in stop.

My swaybar did not get shipped when they said it was going to so they are overnighting it to me and I will post the photos as soon as I can.

Keep up the good work!

Here are some more pictures.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/caronground.jpg
Pictures with the car on the ground

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/righrsidecaronground.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/ididitrubberbushing.jpg
Rubber bushing to adapt the smaller Ididit steering column to the stock lower 67 mount

Man Man that sure looks good. Have you got to drive it yet? Keep up the good work.

No not yet,I am still waiting on the upper U-joint from Flaming River.It should be here on the 10th. I wanted there new pinch style stainless u-joint,little did I know that I am getting the first one in production.

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=377/category_id=218/home_id=82/mode=prod/prd377.htm

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/U-joint.jpg

Those look sweet! Your car is looking GREAT!:yes:

Looks real good Brian, are the joints you are waiting on going to be polished as well? It looks like you spent some time on the billet clamps? I can't wait to see the car after you drive it out here!..........LOL.

Hey Joe when are you going to start on yours?

Well if you are going to drive it to Chuck's. Come on down to Kentucky so I can drool all over it to.

Funny, I am not sure the big roller cam would survive the trip.Also at 6-7 miles to the gallon I would have to sell my house to pay for fuel.

You need a BLOWER gets better mileage.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Good%20guys%20nashville%2008/IMG_3436.jpg HAHAHA You have a sweet car there.

You need a BLOWER gets better mileage.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Good%20guys%20nashville%2008/IMG_3436.jpg HAHAHA You have a sweet car there.
I think a blower might make my car faster:devil:and maybe get some magazine coverage :yes::yes:

I think a blower might make my car faster:devil:and maybe get some magazine coverage :yes::yes:

I can not believe your car is not on a Cover yet.

OK, Churchboys R&P done.
The package arrived yesterday.
Very easy. Didn't watch the clock exactly, but I think the whole process was about 8 hours.
Includes get rid of the old stuff and put in the new. Including Church Boys Strut Rods for lower control arms.

Car is a -65 with headman headers, -67 disc brakes and 350/th350. The steering column is left from its old days as a 3 speed/6banger.

My findings:
1) Hell of a job to cut the old steering axle. Was finally able to get a small grinder down there and cut it just above the steeringbox. After that the old steering box came out pretty easy upper way
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14657&stc=1&d=1215522042
2) U-joints binded! My angles was obviously a bit hard for them. I had to "trim" them to allow for more angle.

3) Had to trim some of the lock screws for the u-joints as they hocked into things when turning the wheel. I trimmed them in length so they become flush with the u-joints themselves when tightened

4) As lower "bearing" for the steering shaft I used a connection thing for a garden hoses :-) (I milled it down to right size)
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14658&stc=1&d=1215522143
5) Heck of a job to get the bigger nuts for the screws to the frame brackets to the strút rods to fit in the back holes.

6) Had to trim the frame brackets a hair to get them to fit into the weld-on mounts
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14659&d=1215522261

7) Took a while to get the perfect (?) length of steering shaft etc. Had to take it apart a number of times to trim it to the length I wanted.

8) Fiddling with the brakes took a while. Disconnect brakelines to be able to take the calipers off, this to be able to take the discs off to get access to the bolt/nuts for the strut rods. And messy with brake fluid everywhere :-).


Anders
Spånga, Sweden

Hera are a few more pictures.

Anders
Spånga, Sweden

I have an update on the sway bar set up. I have a mock up bar on our display and while at the GoodGuys show in Columbus this past weekend I spoke with John Hotchkis (owner) of Hotchkins suspensions and they are going to make the sway bars for us. We are looking at around 6 weeks for a turn around period. Untill they make something up for me I will not have pricing.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/Goodguys08010.jpg

How did you find the response to your rack and the CPP suspension? There is always someone out there who hasn't been on SNS.
John.

Bav 67
This is Chuck senior, some of our SNS brothers just call me shorty, I believe that came from a big guy named TINY. The responses from people at the show who do not know of SNS site were aware of cpp and liked our rack setup. It truly was a good show to be and put out the conversion to other Nova owners. I am sure we will be quite busy in the near future. I know it caught the eye of the Heits people. They refered one customer to us because he went to them for a rack setup but did not want to change his full front end, so they told him about our product and sent him over. I did make a point to thank them and let them know i have their Heits 4-link under my 63 nova. I also told them to visit the SNS site and get feel for what the needs are of the many Nova site members. My son had the SNS sticker on the window of his car. He should be posting pics soon.

It was for sure a great show lot's of people. I will have to go back next year for sure. Chuck JR and the Tall guy Chuck SR are great guy's. They will go out of there way to help someone. I am lucky to call them my friends. I had some much fun talking to everyone.

Well I finished my Church R&P and had it aligned today.It steers easier than my old manual set up and feels real good.You do get a little more road feed back through the rack than you did though the original setup,I think this woud be common with any R&P type of steering.The only change I made from Chuck's original design was to add a vibtation resistor to isolate the steering wheel from the wheels.The only negitive thing is the turn signal switch in the Ididit steering column feels cheesy compared to my original 67 switch.As stated in one off my prevoius posts the only difficult part of the conversion is removing the old steering box,the rest is a walk in the park.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/ididitpasssidewiew.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/ididitdriverssideview.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/ididitcolumnstocklowermount.jpg
Ididit column looks almost factory in a 67

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/notch.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/mountnotch.jpg
View of notched engine engine mount ear

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/upperu-joint.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/steeringshafttopview.jpg
Clearance between Hooker Super Comps and the steering shaft.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/vibrationreducer.jpg
Picture of the vibration reducer.

Great Pic's thanks

Looks like you had to notch the frame mount! looks almost factory:yes:

Brian, everything looks outstanding, you even have the polished steering shaft! I think that Ididit tried to copy the soft turn signal of the newer cars. One thing to note for those following the thread is that for what reason I do not know I had enough clearance with my engine mounts. I did however replace them with a set from Chevy2 only. My dad's stock set did have to be trimmed about an 1/8".

Brian, everything looks outstanding, you even have the polished steering shaft! I think that Ididit tried to copy the soft turn signal of the newer cars. One thing to note for those following the thread is that for what reason I do not know I had enough clearance with my engine mounts. I did however replace them with a set from Chevy2 only. My dad's stock set did have to be trimmed about an 1/8".
I had to trimme mine to.

Super Chevy magazine is willing to do an article showing the before during and after photos of the Church Boys Racing LLC rack and pinion conversion. If anyone is in the New Jersey area and is interested in doing this contact Jim campisano (editor) of Super Chevy magazine.

Super Chevy magazine is willing to do an article showing the before during and after photos of the Church Boys Racing LLC rack and pinion conversion. If anyone is in the New Jersey area and is interested in doing this contact Jim campisano (editor) of Super Chevy magazine.

Will he pay to transport my car from California:D

:no::no::no::no::no::no::no::no::no::no::no::no::n o::no::no::no::no::no::

My car is ready for the install. He just needs to come to Cali!!!:D

I did mention that california was a good place to do the write up and then he informed me that it would have to take place around New Jersey.

Smitty62 have you started your project yet?

Boy that sounds good. Now the hard part finding someone in NJ.

The Churchboys rack and pinion looks alot like Fatman Fabrications setup without the strut.
http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=33

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e180/bullage/nova%20clip/IMG_2227.jpg

Yes but a lot cleaner. A lot more stable. I had a car with the fatman on it and it was not a lot better than stock. To much movement from the struts at high speed. I do not get that with the churchboys kit. And I have been over 150mpr with this kit.

The Churchboys rack and pinion looks alot like Fatman Fabrications setup without the strut.


Yes you are correct in that there are some similarities 1. Front steer 2. Chevette rack. The similarities end there. Only the rack and pinion can be used from the fatman set up on the Church Boys Rack and Pinion conversion. We actually sold a kit this weekend at Super Chevy to a gentlmen who is going to remove the FatMan kit pictured above and install the Church Boys Rack conversion.

I have seen the Fatman kit up close back when they were new and was not at all impressed.It was on the car that they use in there add,he was in our club at the time.The Churchboys rack kit is much cleaner and refined.

Here are some photos of our display holding an Inline 6cyl. infact it is the one that originally came with my car. You can see that there is more than enough room. Not to confuse anyone by our name this kit is not just for the strip, I tend to spend most of my time with my car on the drag strip so we just kept the name. As you can see from the photos that 4,6,&8cyl. are not a problem. Our kit is very versatile in that you do not have to purchase everything from us. You can start off with as little as the weld on blocks for the stock crossmember, witch locates the Billet Clamps that are needed and if you have the proper CPP lower arms your are now ready to source the parts store components yourself and gather up the steering arms from a 64-72 GM "A" body. If the tubular look is what you are after then of course we have the Tubular Crossmember. Don't forget that our kits work with the Power steering rack as well.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1006.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1007.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1008.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1010.jpg

Here is another photo of Dad's car (now my favorite one) with our conversion and the Church Boys arms from CPP.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1004-1.jpg

Looking good Chuck. Man I like your dad's car. And I like the looks of the kit from the front.

I have been trying to resist the temptation to post a reply in this thread. I figured enough people had already told you how nice this kit is. But then you posted the picture of your dad's car. I love and I mean love the way that kit looks from the front.

I have a 67 that I've owned since I was 13 years old and I have tried not to change much about it. However, the more I look at these upgrades, I may have to break down and do it.

Once again... VERY NICE PARTS! LOOKS GREAT!

Do it you will not be disappointed! I have done my 67 and if you have any questions please feel free to ask.I am sure that the various years have minor idiosyncrasies and I know the 67 inside and out.:yes:

I to must say go for it.

jacksonnova, thankyou for the compliment on our kit, and I'm certain that dad is just as pleased with your kind words. Like you I have had my car since I was younger, 11yrs. old.

As stated above please ask all that you need, and welcome to the site.

jacksonnova, thankyou for the compliment on our kit, and I'm certain that dad is just as pleased with your kind words. Like you I have had my car since I was younger, 11yrs. old.

As stated above please ask all that you need, and welcome to the site.

Man, I don't need your product. But if I did....
You guys look like a class act. Keep up the good work.

Someone asked just how low my car is. Here is a new shot of the car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Dads%20Car/DSC_0005.jpg

What would be the pros/cons of using the CPP arms vs. the strut rod relocation kit from Church?

What factors should weigh in when making that decision?

What would be the pros/cons of using the CPP arms vs. the strut rod relocation kit from Church?

What factors should weigh in when making that decision?

Money for one thing. Me I am cheep and did not want to spend the money for the CPP kit and my car is not going to corner very good anyway. But if you are going to do some rally racing or road course's then the CPP is the way to go. But I am really not the right guy to talk about it as I am not a suspension guy. I like the way my car drives now but I have never driven a car with the CPP kit on it so I can not really say how much better it is that what I have on my car.

I have a 66 that I bracket race. I am leaning towards setting it up just as Chuck has his race car with the strut rod relocation kit.

However, for my 67 I was leaning towards the CPP kit. I will probably spend a good bit of time cruising to shows, etc. It is a mildly modified street car. I have parts to convert to disc brakes and would like to upgrade the suspension/steering for a safer, more enjoyable cruise.

Then this for sure is the way to go on both cars. I drive mine a lot. I put over 300 miles on it last weekend. And the car runs in the 9's.

Jacksonnova, for the drag car you will not want to run the CPP arms as they are built very stout in that they are very thick and heavy along with the plate that runs from on side to the other across the front of the car. Front end weight is something that you want to minimize not add to.

Tim is correct in that if you were to run some road races and push the front end to its limits you could possibly consider the CPP arms. Actually you could box your lower control arms to stiffen them up. When you eliminate the forward strut rod with the big rubber bushing you will dramaticly improve your front suspension. All that holds your lower control arm in place is rubber, it is not a solid mount like heim joints or the A-arm configuration, this allows the arm to move back and forth, not to mention the stock set up does not allow the suspension to move with out binding. There is no true pivot in the stock strut rod configuration.

Now for first hand experience with both set ups. Dad's car originally had the rear mounted strut rod, when I designed the lower CPP arms for them they sent me the first set of arms off of the jig so that I could double check the fit and function. I used dad's car for this because he does not compete at the track at the extent that I do. With the CPP arms installed there is no difference between the two as far as how they handle in day to day hot rodding on the street. If a guy was to really compete on the road coarse like I said they could box the stock lower arm and use the rear mounted strut rod for tremendous performance for the cost. CPP 399.00 lower subframe kit, Church Boys strut rod 150.00 that is a cost difference of 249.00.

Man, I don't need your product. But if I did....
You guys look like a class act. Keep up the good work.

Mark thankyou for the compliment.

Someone asked just how low my car is. Here is a new shot of the car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Dads%20Car/DSC_0005.jpg

Tim that is a beautiful photo. Unbelievably strait!!

Tim
Sweet ride for sure. Looks mean.

Church
Thnaks for your time to respond. I am so impressed that you take time to answer all of our questions. I have followed this thread for a while now. You and the rest of these guys are so very helpful!

Thanks guys here is the one I like the best.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Dads%20Car/DSC_0003.jpg
It was ICE but by the time I got out of the car it was just moisture. Hard to believe you can get ice on the hat and it 85deg outside.

Tim
Sweet ride for sure. Looks mean.

Church
Thnaks for your time to respond. I am so impressed that you take time to answer all of our questions. I have followed this thread for a while now. You and the rest of these guys are so very helpful!

Jacksonnova, you are very welcome! Please don't hesitate to ask there are a ton of very smart people around here that can help with anything.

Tim, that picture brings truth to fact that you really do have a COOL ride!!!!!

..............Man that is really boosting the HP with the cold air charge!

Does anyone have any experience with using the churchboy setup and a LS motor in a stock clip? Any rear sumped oil pan like the F-body/corvette should work?

Does anyone have any experience with using the churchboy setup and a LS motor in a stock clip? Any rear sumped oil pan like the F-body/corvette should work?

I have not put an LS motor in with our kit however there is nothing left under engine, everything is removed. Here are some various underside photos with a standard small block but, this will give you an Idea of the space available under the engine for LS options.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0338.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/frontsump013.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/oldcamera010.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_0320.jpg

Does anyone have any experience with using the churchboy setup and a LS motor in a stock clip? Any rear sumped oil pan like the F-body/corvette should work?

There were 3 or 4 guy's at Columbus looking at the kit so they could put LS motors in there cars. All said it would work. But I have not heard if anyone that has started doing one.

Just ordered my setup for the Nova............Chuck...yu da man....can't wait to get it installed.......stay tuned.....

Thanks for answering my seemingly endless questions.

T,

Thanks Tom, and you are very welcome.

Ok everyone we finally nailed down the price for the Church Boys r/p conversion sway bar. We are pleased to be working with Hotchkis Suspensions in making our sway bars. They have actually laid eyes on our set up first hand so that there would be no mistakes in what was needed for fit and total function. Retail on the Church bar by Hotchkis will be 235.00. We will offer a 10% discount for those who pre-order by friday september 12th.
The discounted price will be 211.50. If anyone would like to pre order please call me @ 330-442-7162 or email me at novasteering@aol.com.

We should be receiving the first shippment in approximatly 4 weeks. This bar will be compatable with or without the CPP lower control arms, and with or without a rack set up. If you do not have a r/p installed you must be using the CPP lower arms as this sway bar will not work with the stock forward mounted strut rods.

Ok everyone we finally nailed down the price for the Church Boys r/p conversion sway bar. We are pleased to be working with Hotchkis Suspensions in making our sway bars. They have actually laid eyes on our set up first hand so that there would be no mistakes in what was needed for fit and total function. Retail on the Church bar by Hotchkis will be 235.00. We will offer a 10% discount for those who pre-order by friday september 12th.
The discounted price will be 211.50. If anyone would like to pre order please call me @ 330-442-7162 or email me at novasteering@aol.com.

We should be receiving the first shippment in approximatly 4 weeks. This bar will be compatable with or without the CPP lower control arms, and with or without a rack set up. If you do not have a r/p installed you must be using the CPP lower arms as this sway bar will not work with the stock forward mounted strut rods.

GREAT GREAT Happy to here this. This will make your kit just that much nicer.

Chuck, got the parts in today.........what can I say....wow. Good workmanship, powdercoating is great, billet mounts are way cool................now if those dang CPP arms would just show up....:mad:... I can get some real steering. Got everything mocked up ready to go....

If anyone is thinking about this mod I'd say go for it. Chuck built some good stuff to put on our cars......hats off to ya bro......

Will post pictures once done....


T,

Chuck, got the parts in today.........what can I say....wow. Good workmanship, powdercoating is great, billet mounts are way cool................now if those dang CPP arms would just show up....:mad:... I can get some real steering. Got everything mocked up ready to go....

If anyone is thinking about this mod I'd say go for it. Chuck built some good stuff to put on our cars......hats off to ya bro......

Will post pictures once done....


T,

Just be glad I didnt sell you the Unisteer kit...:yes::devil:

Just be glad I didnt sell you the Unisteer kit...:yes::devil:

You prolly could have sold it to me and not said a word......thanks, I think...:D

The thing I didn't like about the unisteer, was the angle on the steering shaft to rack, maybe if it could have been moved to the front of the crossmember, it would be less of an issue, along with the maybe on a front sump pan......too many variables for me. I know some guys here are using the unisteer and it works for them.

BTW, how's your mod going, any new progress?


T,

Got the rack mounted, a-arms on, all tied in. Gonna remount the column, tie in the steering shaft, install the headers, and get her on the road.....so far, so good.....

Also have to install a new oil pan, rear sump. For those of you thinking about doing this on a front sump V8, it barely hits the pan, and I mean just barely, so clearance is good there, nothing a little "tweaking" won't solve with a file or grinder....:eek:

Chuck, the parts bolted right in, no fussin' and no cussin', everything lined right up........great R&D and quality. Can't wait to get on the road again. Will try to post some pictures once I am done.......


T,

Tom it sounds like you've been busy playn'................don't forget to get a new oil pump shaft when purchasing a new pump for the rear sump set up. The front sump shaft is a little short!

.................and don't forget to fire up that digital camera we would love to see the finished product. I also need a good photo sent to me so that I can add you to our calander for 2009!

Yeah, bought the Melling select, with the rod, and extra spring.

Got everything done today except the pan. The headers went in nicely, had to tweak the #3 tube for the header bolt. Had the car on ramps and they went right in from the bottom. Had to reclock my starter, and lengthen some plug wires, fired it up and the Super Comps rattled the windows.......:D....man you can drive a truck down the driver's side now with all the old stuff gone. I had to cut the ear off my motor mount, might not have had to, but it was too close to let it slide. The column floor mount bracket is trick, tightened everything up. ALL the slop is gone from the wheel, I can't wait to drive this dude now..........


Got a few items to tidy up tomorrow, change the pan and weld up the headers.

Calendar?.......a clue.......only bad part is my Church Boys decal got messed up in the mail so I had to peal it off........I mean it got reallllyyyy messed up.

I'll try to get pictures early before I get sweaty, detailing all the mods so far.

T,


Tom it sounds like you've been busy playn'................don't forget to get a new oil pump shaft when purchasing a new pump for the rear sump set up. The front sump shaft is a little short!

.................and don't forget to fire up that digital camera we would love to see the finished product. I also need a good photo sent to me so that I can add you to our calander for 2009!

Yeah, bought the Melling select, with the rod, and extra spring.

Got everything done today except the pan. The headers went in nicely, had to tweak the #3 tube for the header bolt. Had the car on ramps and they went right in from the bottom. Had to reclock my starter, and lengthen some plug wires, fired it up and the Super Comps rattled the windows.......:D....man you can drive a truck down the driver's side now with all the old stuff gone. I had to cut the ear off my motor mount, might not have had to, but it was too close to let it slide. The column floor mount bracket is trick, tightened everything up. ALL the slop is gone from the wheel, I can't wait to drive this dude now..........


Got a few items to tidy up tomorrow, change the pan and weld up the headers.

Calendar?.......a clue.......only bad part is my Church Boys decal got messed up in the mail so I had to peal it off........I mean it got reallllyyyy messed up.

I'll try to get pictures early before I get sweaty, detailing all the mods so far.

T,

Great to here it is all going well. Calendar what Calendar?

Great to here it is all going well. Calendar what Calendar?

Tom I will have a new decal in the mail monday morning!

I am putting together a Church Boys Racing Nova calander for 2009. I am going to use as many Customer rides as I can.

Kewl, thanks Chuck on the decal.......

Got all the work done today and went for a test drive............I am floored, this is a completely different car......I can turn around on my cul-de-sac (sp?) without making a three point turn, no bump steer, nothing. You are very in touch with every part of the road. Now you drive the car, not the other way around............:bounce:

Chuck...you are the man......:notworthy:

Anybody having doubts about pulling the trigger on this deal should just do it. I simply cannot say enough about the mod.........it just flat works...:yes:

Tomorrow is picture day of the whole deal, so...what kind of pictures do you need for the Calendar........:D

T,


Tom I will have a new decal in the mail monday morning!

I am putting together a Church Boys Racing Nova calander for 2009. I am going to use as many Customer rides as I can.

Kewl, thanks Chuck on the decal.......

Got all the work done today and went for a test drive............I am floored, this is a completely different car......I can turn around on my cul-de-sac (sp?) without making a three point turn, no bump steer, nothing. You are very in touch with every part of the road. Now you drive the car, not the other way around............:bounce:

Chuck...you are the man......:notworthy:

Anybody having doubts about pulling the trigger on this deal should just do it. I simply cannot say enough about the mod.........it just flat works...:yes:

Tomorrow is picture day of the whole deal, so...what kind of pictures do you need for the Calendar........:D

T,

I can't wait to complete mine, after the nova show its coming apart, these testimonies prove that Chuck rack is the real deal:yes:

Tom what oil pan did you use??

I can't wait to complete mine, after the nova show its coming apart, these testimonies prove that Chuck rack is the real deal:yes:

True True how true. And to get someone that will go out of his way to make sure you are happy. Chuck is the MAN:yes:

3TIM

Tom what oil pan did you use??


I used this one from Milodon.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/30701/10002/-1/745643%7C10457

I also used the Fel Pro one piece gasket, so far so good. I'll get some pictures up this evening......


T,

True True how true. And to get someone that will go out of his way to make sure you are happy. Chuck is the MAN:yes:

3TIM

X100.............:yes:

My buddy has a 66 also and drove mine yesterday.........he will be contacting Chuck Monday to purchase the whole system.


T,

[QUOTE

My buddy has a 66 also and drove mine yesterday.........he will be contacting Chuck Monday to purchase the whole system.

T,[/QUOTE]


Tom, your buddy will have his kit in a few days, it shipped out this morning.................Thanks!



SWAY BAR UPDATE:

I received the first prototype from Hotchkis and bolted it up, there were a few minor things that I wanted to change so they are sending out another prototype next week. Even with the minor issues it looks really good and is tucked up and out of the way of everything.

Good deal, I'll let him know, he told me he ordered it..........

Thanks again Chuck....

T,

I used this one from Milodon.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/30701/10002/-1/745643%7C10457

I also used the Fel Pro one piece gasket, so far so good. I'll get some pictures up this evening......


T,

How low is that pan? Will it work on a 383 Stroker? I have the Low Pro Milodon Stroker pan (7qt I think) and it sits pretty low to the ground. I’m in for seeing those pictures when available. Glad to hear it all worked out and you are also happy with the kit. I will eventually tackle mine after the summer. The kit is sitting on the work bench just waiting:sleep:

Good deal, I'll let him know, he told me he ordered it..........

Thanks again Chuck....

T,

Hey! Where's those pictures you promised us?

How low is that pan? Will it work on a 383 Stroker? I have the Low Pro Milodon Stroker pan (7qt I think) and it sits pretty low to the ground. I’m in for seeing those pictures when available. Glad to hear it all worked out and you are also happy with the kit. I will eventually tackle mine after the summer. The kit is sitting on the work bench just waiting:sleep:

Smitty, there are several companies making low profile oil pans, Milodon has a few dirt track pans at 7 in deep and even 6 in with 7qt capacity check Kevco too

Smitty, there are several companies making low profile oil pans, Milodon has a few dirt track pans at 7 in deep and even 6 in with 7qt capacity check Kevco too

Are any of you running stick cars? If so what are you doing about the scatter shields. I keep hitting mine on stuff. It has bent the bolt flange back about 3deg's. And I know I am not as low as some are.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Dads%20Car/DSC_0004.jpg

Tim, I had a 66 that was at least as low as yours, I trimmed the lower lip to get the clearance I needed:yes:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc110/voodooII/mn9620.jpg

Tim, I had a 66 that was at least as low as yours, I trimmed the lower lip to get the clearance I needed:yes:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc110/voodooII/mn9620.jpg

That is what I was thinking of doing. I am going to get a new oilpan round track low and wide. Thanks

Hey! Where's those pictures you promised us?

I promise I'll get them up tomorrow, been busy tying up some loose ends....

How low is that pan? Will it work on a 383 Stroker? I have the Low Pro Milodon Stroker pan (7qt I think) and it sits pretty low to the ground. I’m in for seeing those pictures when available. Glad to hear it all worked out and you are also happy with the kit. I will eventually tackle mine after the summer. The kit is sitting on the work bench just waiting:sleep:

The A-Arms are lower than the pan, but higher than the old stock steering arms, can't recall exactly how much now that you mention it, but I'll get a front profile shot so you can see the clearance. Not sure on the pan for a 383. My engine is a stock block 350, 4 bolt main. I don't know if it would work with splayed caps etc.....


T,

Okay, here we go.The first and second one is the ground clearance. As you can see the headers are lower than the pan. Headers are about 4.5 - 5 inches off the ground.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/012-1.jpg


http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/017.jpg


Second and third are rack to pan clearance.


http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/013-1.jpg



http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/014.jpg


Fourth and fifth are header to steering rod clearance. You can stick a foot through there now.....:D

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/015.jpg


http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/016.jpg


Last one is A-arm. Funny how I wound up with blue grease caps.....:D

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/018.jpg

Had to notch my motor mount ever so slightly, but this might be a product of how deep you extend your column through the firewall. It was not touching when I pulled it back, so I had to find a happy medium. I wanted some column through the firewall. I didn't get a picture of the front sump pan, but it will fit. Like Chuck mentioned earlier, you have to relieve the boss on the rack slightly for clearance. I didn't relieve mine, and it was touching, but I knew I was changing pans anyway. You also have to install the rack to the crossmember before install, it won't go in after you install the crossmember, found this out the hard way.......

T,

Looks good.

Tom everything looks very nice and clean! Did you pay extra for the blue tie rod boots? LOL.
When using the Church Boys lower arms you will gain 1" of ground clearance compaired to the stock outer tie rod. On the stock set up the outer tie rod was the lowest point on the suspension. Now the lowest point on the suspension is the control arm. If I had to choose what I was going to hit while driving it would definately be the control arm verses the outer tie rod end! So if you never hit the stock tie rod end then you should not hit the lower control arm.

Here is the same photo of dad's car that we have already seen. This car has a 24" tire and the ground clearance to the lower control arm is 5 7/8".
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1004-1.jpg

Not to confuse anyone but, Tom was referring to installing the rack and crossmember as one unit when the front sump pan is still installed. When you are using a rear sump pan you do not need to bolt the rack to the crossmember before installing it can be bolted up seperately.

Tom everything looks very nice and clean! Did you pay extra for the blue tie rod boots? LOL.
When using the Church Boys lower arms you will gain 1" of ground clearance compaired to the stock outer tie rod. On the stock set up the outer tie rod was the lowest point on the suspension. Now the lowest point on the suspension is the control arm. If I had to choose what I was going to hit while driving it would definately be the control arm verses the outer tie rod end! So if you never hit the stock tie rod end then you should not hit the lower control arm.

Here is the same photo of dad's car that we have already seen. This car has a 24" tire and the ground clearance to the lower control arm is 5 7/8".
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1004-1.jpg

Not to confuse anyone but, Tom was referring to installing the rack and crossmember as one unit when the front sump pan is still installed. When you are using a rear sump pan you do not need to bolt the rack to the crossmember before installing it can be bolted up seperately.

The blue tie rod boots came with the better grade ends .....go figure...:cool:

You are correct on the clarification of the install with the front sump as opposed to the regular pan, my bad........


I have a front sump pan and oil pump up for grabs now...........:D


T,

Tom everything looks very nice and clean! Did you pay extra for the blue tie rod boots? LOL.
When using the Church Boys lower arms you will gain 1" of ground clearance compaired to the stock outer tie rod. On the stock set up the outer tie rod was the lowest point on the suspension. Now the lowest point on the suspension is the control arm. If I had to choose what I was going to hit while driving it would definately be the control arm verses the outer tie rod end! So if you never hit the stock tie rod end then you should not hit the lower control arm.

Here is the same photo of dad's car that we have already seen. This car has a 24" tire and the ground clearance to the lower control arm is 5 7/8".
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1004-1.jpg

Not to confuse anyone but, Tom was referring to installing the rack and crossmember as one unit when the front sump pan is still installed. When you are using a rear sump pan you do not need to bolt the rack to the crossmember before installing it can be bolted up seperately.

You have not had dad's car out playing with it way he is out of town have you?

Tom I will have a new decal in the mail monday morning!

I am putting together a Church Boys Racing Nova calander for 2009. I am going to use as many Customer rides as I can.


Got the decals. Thanks Chuck............:D


I'll get you some hi -res pictures after the holiday.....:turn:


T..

Sounds good Tom, I can't wait. Post them here as well too.

Got the other rack parts for my buddy's conversion..:yes:.........another Church Boy's conversion about to bite the dust....:D



Still waiting for a sunny day on the pictures........:mad:....dang hurricanes...


T,

and the bud lights? lol...hey tommy boy. i'll have to stop by sometime next week when i'm off graveyards and check her out.

No time for Bud lites...gotta "git er done"......we'll party when she's rollin'

Swing by, I got some Sanderson headers you might be interested in.......and some other stuff....:D

T,

and the bud lights? lol...hey tommy boy. i'll have to stop by sometime next week when i'm off graveyards and check her out.

I should be receiving the 2nd prototype bar this week. Along with the minor changes needed from the first one it has been decided to go with an 1 1/8" dia. instead of the 1". This will give us around a 60% increase in stiffness compaired to the 1" bar.

I should be receiving the 2nd prototype bar this week. Along with the minor changes needed from the first one it has been decided to go with an 1 1/8" dia. instead of the 1". This will give us around a 60% increase in stiffness compaired to the 1" bar.

Thats a bit too much IMO. I moved down a swaybar size and was much happier. You should get them in both sizes and try them out for yourself.:yes:

Thats a bit too much IMO. I moved down a swaybar size and was much happier. You should get them in both sizes and try them out for yourself.:yes:

Yeah, you could be right. A 1 1/8th bar in a camaro is plenty stiff. put that in a Nova which should be lighter up front and it could be too much. But I suppose it also depends on the mount points. Maybe the Nova geometry has more leverage on the bar than the camaro setup?

The Church bar is mounted pretty far forward making the leverage arms long.It should work out to be very close to a 1 inch stock type Nova bar as to the stiffness.

Just as Nova404 has stated the arms on the Church sway bar are pretty long making for more leverage against the sway bar. This has been a topic of concern with the engineers at Hotchkis so we decided that a 1 1/8" bar would put us more in line with what the original set up would be like. They felt the 1" was very soft given the length of the arms. So we had 2 options, one use a hollow bar (very very expensive) or go with 1 1/8" solid. I agree that a 1" would work if you didn't have any before but if you've been using an aftermarket bar our 1" would have felt a little too soft. You can see in the photo below the length of the arms on the sway bar.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/Goodguys08010.jpg

We have been waiting on the new prototype bar from Hotckis, and it arrived yesterday!!!! However they forgot to send the hardware to mount the bar to the car so now we are waiting on the hardware. I shall return with a better update.

Well I received the missing hardware for the prototype 1-1/8" swaybar for the Church Boys Racing rack/pinion conversion. I installed the bar and drilled 2 holes in the lip of the frame, one on each side. I honestly can not believe the difference in the handling of the car from as little as 25mph to over 70! It's like the whole front suspension works in unisen now, unbeleivable. It's been a long time since I have driven my car with a swaybar and dad's car never had one, I don't remember any difference with my car when I removed it but, man what a change in the whole car it feels like a newer car going down the road. Well enough of me tripping over myself here are a few pictures of the bar. Now the bars that are sent out will be powdercoated black. In the first picture if you look at the mounting bracket the forward bolt is an existing hole for the radiator core support and the rear bolt must be drilled in the lip of the frame, it was simply done by bolting the bar in place using the existing hole and then drilling thru the hole in the bracket. Notice the zerk fitting for grease!...............................WOW. This sway bar is compatible with any car that has the front strut rods removed with or with out the rack/pinion conversion.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1103.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1109.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1118.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1116.jpg

Looks good- Im glad it worked out Chuck!

WOW I like it. Can not what to get me one!

That looks good Chuck,

I must have missed it.......

What's the cost on these Chuck?


T,

All pre-paid orders will be 211.50 untill I receive the bars, at that time the price will be around 235.00 to 239.00. The reason for the guess is that the original quote was for the 1" bar and we are now using the 1-1/8" bar so the cost may be a touch higher than the original. All bars will be powdercoated black and come with all the hardware.

For those who have pre-paid they will be a couple more weeks since we did a little redesign work.

Well, i finally got my car back and actually got to drive it today since my son finally installed the churchboys swaybar. In all honesty i have driven this car for 38 years going to Anaheim California, Pheonix Arizona and back to Ohio while in the service in 1970. During that time it had the rear steering linkage and no sway bar. Since i added the churchboys rack i thought it couldn't get any better than this, with the way it steered so easy. But now with the sway bar added i can feel the front end gripping the road more responsivly than without it. There is no sense of swaying as i swerved the car pretending to avoid all the deer out here ( i have two road kills to date ********$) You really can feel the road, and i went down some rough roads just to see if there would be any shaking in the wheel. Well there was none and i think it actually helped transfer the load which made it ride smoother. Well my son taught this old dog some new tricks but i am wondering now if he is going to take it back off and get it powdercoated for me!:yes: I need you all to put the pressure on him, yep i now have one NOVASIOUS RIDE

If Chuck JR won't send it to me I will. I will even do it in Green.

VooDooII needs a pink one!:yes:

VooDooII needs a pink one!:yes:

That would be HOT PINK!! my friend:yes:

I thought it was "LADIES PICK PINK"

I thought it was "LADIES PICK PINK"

What can I say chicks love my car:devil:

HAHAHAHEHEHE:turn::devil:

Not sure if this is the best place to put this post or not, but since this is where most people who have contacted me have been......

There have been some delays in getting the modified tubular lower arms for the Church Boys rack conversion. I was initially supposed to have kits in stock by mid August, but due to the delays, I haven't received them yet. I am hoping to have them in approx. 1 week. My apologies to those of you who have ordered kits from me. I will be filling backorders in the order they were received as soon as I have the kits in stock.

Once again, my apologies for the delay in the shipment of the parts. I will be stocking a higher number of these kits so we can hopefully avoid these type of delays in the future.

Walt

All of the swaybars have been made and will be shipped out this week. If every things goes well those of you that pre-orderd should have your bars by the beginning of next week :-)

For anyone thinking of purchasing the CPP "Church Boys" arms for their conversion can do so buy contacting Walt at Classic Nova & Performance. He will also be stocking the Complete Church Boys R/P conversion along with the "New" sway bar.

Thanks,

This is great news! Does anyone have Walts email or user id on the board? Thanks.

This is great news! Does anyone have Walts email or user id on the board? Thanks.

http://www.classicnova.com/ His username is nova656567

I'm buying the parts for the Church conversion and wondering about the vibration reducer. Hey that item is approx $169 or am I looking in the wrong place? Is it that noticeable? Did you use the 18 inch shaft? :turn:

Shaft length will vary depending on steering column location and type,18 inch length should work on most applications.I put the vibration reducer on mine because a friend of mine had a Fatman front end with the Chevette rackyears ago and he said you could feel every bump in the road.If feeling the road in the wheel does not bother you a standard joint would be fine.I have never driven one with the standard joint and to the best of my knowlage no one has complained about this,in my case I did not want to have to add it later if I was unhappy with the road feel.

Yeah I was just looking up the price on that part too!! YIKES! Summit has it for $159 but deeang!! I think I am gonna run the standard for now and see how bad the vibes are. I do drive mine daily. But it can't be any worse than the column now with 2 bad bearings. :rolleyes:
Flaming River FR1895 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLA-FR1895&N=700+400376+115&autoview=sku)

Check E-bay sometimes they pop up on there for a decent price.Also Borgesen makes one and they are cheaper if you want plain steel.

Thanks for the info. Yes the good stuff is the good stuff and deals don't come easy and I do enjoy driving that nova. :yes:

I thought about this too, gonna drive mine a while and see. I like the road feel as compared to before when I never knew where it was going to go coming out of a dip. After having driven it a while over familiar roads, it is starting to get predictable. Drive it before you buy it, and see how it works for you......IMHO


T,



Shaft length will vary depending on steering column location and type,18 inch length should work on most applications.I put the vibration reducer on mine because a friend of mine had a Fatman front end with the Chevette rackyears ago and he said you could feel every bump in the road.If feeling the road in the wheel does not bother you a standard joint would be fine.I have never driven one with the standard joint and to the best of my knowlage no one has complained about this,in my case I did not want to have to add it later if I was unhappy with the road feel.

The more I drive mine the better I like it.

Well I'm going to pick up my CPP/CHURCH lower mini sub on monday. The guys there were accomdating because I wanted the brace plate black and the arms silver. I'll then get the misc. steeriing items. My 66 has the 2" drop spindles with wide very low profile tires which put the road feel on the rough side so I'll probably get the Reducer. :turn:

The Church sway bars are out and they fit perfectly. Installed mine in 30 minutes or so,hope to drive it tomorrow and let you all know how it feels.

Please give me the before and after. I'll have to wait till next month for the Church items. Big kids Xmas gift. :yes:

I have driven my car for years with the stock sway bar on and off and could not realy tell any difference.I took my car to work today and it feels more stable than it ever has,iregularities in the road used to feel a little wierd now it feel very predictable.Fast turns feel way better,considering I have shinnies on the front.You guys with a protouring style cars should be very pleased.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/swaybaronground.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/swaybaronground1.jpg

I can not wait!

I have picked up everything but the tie rod ends and plan to start today and work when I can this week to make a car show on Friday the 24th. I am going to take a lot of pic's and I will share them as time permits.
Chuck Cramer from Baltimore

I have driven my car for years with the stock sway bar on and off and could not realy tell any difference.I took my car to work today and it feels more stable than it ever has,iregularities in the road used to feel a little wierd now it feel very predictable.Fast turns feel way better,considering I have shinnies on the front.You guys with a protouring style cars should be very pleased.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/swaybaronground.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/swaybaronground1.jpg

So I noticed that the sway barely clears those hoses on the passenger side? Do they ever rub on hard cornering or during suspension travel? Or am I just seeing a optical illusion from the picture angle?

There was clearance on it about 1/4 inch but I relocated it above the frame lip today.The sway bar has a washer tack welded to it on the inside edges of the frame mounts to stop the bar from walking to either side.

I have picked up everything but the tie rod ends and plan to start today and work when I can this week to make a car show on Friday the 24th. I am going to take a lot of pic's and I will share them as time permits.
Chuck Cramer from Baltimore



Hey Chuck, it's good to see you've finally got on the site!!! Can't wait to see the photos.

I have driven my car for years with the stock sway bar on and off and could not realy tell any difference.I took my car to work today and it feels more stable than it ever has,iregularities in the road used to feel a little wierd now it feel very predictable......................


It is really something how you live with the way something is and you get used to it. Now with the swaybar installed, which looks really good Brian, everything works in unisen to sneak up and suprise you in how pleasant and predictable the car really is :-)

Any one want to go road racing :yes:. Just put my new Sway-Bar on and man does it drive better. I did not think it would help my car being a Pro-Street car but it did. I may have to give a call to old novanutcase and see if he want to run that thing "NOT". But it does drive a lot better more stable in the craves not as much dip says flat.
Great job Chuck.

Will stopped working on my solar panels to take mine for a long drive Sunday. This was the first time I have it out for a good drive with the new sway-bar and I could not be happier. Took it on a road with a lot of curves and pushed the car so hared that I was pushing the front tiers in the curves. And the car the did great! I put around 250 miles on it so I am happy now. Now back to work on the panels and the 57.

Will stopped working on my solar panels to take mine for a long drive Sunday. This was the first time I have it out for a good drive with the new sway-bar and I could not be happier. Took it on a road with a lot of curves and pushed the car so hared that I was pushing the front tiers in the curves. And the car the did great! I put around 250 miles on it so I am happy now. Now back to work on the panels and the 57.

Your the man Tim, you drive the crap out of that car:cool:

Your the man Tim, you drive the crap out of that car:cool:

It sure is fun to have one to drive. In a few weeks it all comes apart. Clean and Paint, Fix what I have done wrong and what I have broke. So I can be ready for next year. I have put just over 4000 miles on it this summer. Hell I could have drove all the way out there to see you guys. Now that would be fun!

Tim, with the rack kit installed and 4000 miles on the log book how did those skinnies up front hold up?

Tim, with the rack kit installed and 4000 miles on the log book how did those skinnies up front hold up?

They look great! Last year I went through a set of tires and this year they still look NEW. A lot lot better by far.

Well now if I keep driving it like I did last weekend they may not last to long. HAHAHA Man it was so fun.

I don’t want to get off topic but Tim what size front tire and wheel combo are you running? I can’t wait to get started on my Church Boy conversion!!

ChurchBoys (http://www.churchboysracing.com/) R&P is in! Great stuff Chuck!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5420-1.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5418-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5503-1.jpg

There's tons of room with the rear steer gone and the 4.3L in there. (Note crooked r&p? That's a manual rack hanging in the power rack clamps. I'm waiting for the power rack to show :mad:)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5450-1.jpg

I don’t want to get off topic but Tim what size front tire and wheel combo are you running? I can’t wait to get started on my Church Boy conversion!!

26x4.00x15 on a 4" wheel. They are M/T S/R Front Runners

ChurchBoys (http://www.churchboysracing.com/) R&P is in! Great stuff Chuck!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5420-1.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5418-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5503-1.jpg

There's tons of room with the rear steer gone and the 4.3L in there. (Note crooked r&p? That's a manual rack hanging in the power rack clamps. I'm waiting for the power rack to show :mad:)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/31chevy/67%20Nova%204dr/Rack-Pinion/IMG_5450-1.jpg

Looking good. I hope you have as much fun with yours as I am having with mine.

Looks excellant John, with the stock crossmember still in use it will really look like you baught it from good ole Chevrolet that way!!!!!

This will make for a very efficient daily driver, can't wait to see it all finished up :-)