1972 Chevrolet Nova Rust Free CA Car, What is it worth??

[benl]

I will preface this post by saying that this is my first post on the forum, and i have found a lot of good info here. I have been seriously looking for a Nova (years 1968-1972) for a copuple months. It would be my first car, i turn 16 in April. I do have some experience working on cars and my father has a lot. I live in Maine and my father has lived here most all of his life. So we know about rusty cars. I have been mainly looking for a car that has very little rust on it.

I am looking at purchasing a 1972 Chevy Nova, but i am not sure what a reasonable price is to pay for it. Here is a short description of it.
-Almost 100% rust free, in CA all it's life.
-garaged since new (buying from 2nd owner in the family)
-has less than 100,000 original miles
-non working original AC
-original paint and vynil (sp?) top (vynil top needs to be replaced, needs to be repainted)
-All original Drivetrain (350ci w/ TH350)
-Power Steering and brakes (front discs)
-Whitewall tires w/ 85-90% tread
-hubcaps
-1 large dent on each front fender
- it also has some oil leaks

is seems like the real value in this car is the originality of it and the lack of rust.

Here are a few pics of the car.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/23.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/2.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/f694_1.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/f9c8_1.jpg

thanks
Ben

[raidmagic]

What are they asking for it?

[benl]

I'm not sure, i know that $4000 didn't even touch the reserve. i placed the highest bid (by far) but i didn't get it. I'm just looking as to what a fair price for the car would be, in case i get another chance at it.
Thanks
Ben

[benl]

doies ANYone even have an idea of what is a good price to pay for this car. I just want to avoid overpaying for something, but i also do not want to underpay and not get the car. I am trying to figure what a car like this (or this one if it comes around again) is worth.
I would appreciate anything anyone could provide
Thanks
Ben

[Nova_Guy]

On ebay you can buy a rear body kit of quarters, trunk floor, tail light panel, rear drop off, for 1200.00 and a front sheet metal kit of fenders, core support, inner fender wheels and misc for 1200.00 repo doors are 379 each floor pans are 200.00 plus 500 for shipping and 3 to 5K for installation and paint. That comes up to nearly 7000.00 just in parts to fix a rust bucket.
My guess that car is worth 5K-10K, its a 350/350 car with an outstanding body shell. I have been to local car shows in the rust belt and saw cars far worse than that sell for 3-6K. It has the motor and transmission most people want to upgrade to. That is a another plus. Disk brakes are a 500 upgrade from drums. I think it should be worth 7-10K in this area. A lack of rust in these old cars is a huge, huge, huge +. Repairing rust that will return is one of the worst parts of an old car.

[benl]

thank you for the response and help. it seems that i wont be buying a car like that until the end of the summer. i may end up buying a fairly rust free car with a L6 and put a 350 in it. any idea how much it costs on average to put a V8 in a L6 car. Also how much work is involved.
Thanks alot
Ben

[2doorpost]

The other problem is- you speak of a BID.
Is he selling the car or auctioning it off?

If you went to him with a higher figure- would he counter or just say "not enough"? You need an idea on what HIS thoughts are.


One can only "jump" so high.

When I was lots younger- I agreed to buy a house from an older couple for $25,000.00
Before I could sign the papers- they said they had an offer of $25,500.00.

Young as I was- I told them congradulations and wished them luck.

[benl]

It was on eBay, so his reserve (least he will take for the car) is hidden, only he knows it.
I definitley understand only being able to "jump" so high, which is why i only wanted to pay around $5800 for the car. I wanted the car but i only have so much, and i still had to ship the car cross country. i put as much as i felt comfortable on it and hoiped to get it, i was surprised when i didn't and was wondering if the car was that far out of my "league". Sounds like it is, i will just have to lower my expectations, or make more money, which i plan to do over the summer.
What kind of 1968-1972 Nova can be bought for 8 or 9 thousand bucks?? How about $6000? Do you think it would be worth me waitng until the fall when i will have another 3 grand or so to spend on the car?
thanks
Ben
[EDIT] let me rephrase that last part. I have about $6000 to spend on a car right now, could i get alot more car for the money if i waited till fall, in the fall i would have about $9000 to spend

[2doorpost]

I've seen relatively clean small bumper (68-72) cars go in the under 5k price range. They'll still need work- That one does anyhow.
9k should put you into a decent driver.
If your are limiting yourself to eBay......you won't find them there for cheap.(Unless somebody screws up on a listing)

[1quik69]

Try Craigslist, Auto trader, Thrifty Nickel type publications in your area. You might be surprised what you can turn up.

[benl]

i do want a car that needs work, but i would much rather it need engine work, rather than rust repair, but most people would.
i have tried craigslist and such, its just hard to find a car with minimal rust up here in maine.
i think i'll just keep looking and buy one if i find it, i've got time.
Thanks
Ben

[Steve340]

that this is a 72
cannot be " converted" into an SS

or some dealer would deck the engine, removing the numbers, paint it, throw some ss stuff and 30K it in a heart beat


this may keep the price reasonable



Steve




I will preface this post by saying that this is my first post on the forum, and i have found a lot of good info here. I have been seriously looking for a Nova (years 1968-1972) for a copuple months. It would be my first car, i turn 16 in April. I do have some experience working on cars and my father has a lot. I live in Maine and my father has lived here most all of his life. So we know about rusty cars. I have been mainly looking for a car that has very little rust on it.

I am looking at purchasing a 1972 Chevy Nova, but i am not sure what a reasonable price is to pay for it. Here is a short description of it.
-Almost 100% rust free, in CA all it's life.
-garaged since new (buying from 2nd owner in the family)
-has less than 100,000 original miles
-non working original AC
-original paint and vynil (sp?) top (vynil top needs to be replaced, needs to be repainted)
-All original Drivetrain (350ci w/ TH350)
-Power Steering and brakes (front discs)
-Whitewall tires w/ 85-90% tread
-hubcaps
-1 large dent on each front fender
- it also has some oil leaks

is seems like the real value in this car is the originality of it and the lack of rust.

Here are a few pics of the car.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/23.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/2.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/f694_1.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/blord14/Nova/f9c8_1.jpg

thanks
Ben

[x72nova72x]

sorry to bring back a killed thread haha but im just wondering how a 72 nova couldnt be cloned to be an ss... all you need to do is throw a couple of badges, a steering wheel, and a 350 in it and you have an "ss"... no?

[benl]

True '72 SS's were identifiable by a K in their VIN, i beleive the 5th number. The 350 4 barrel was the only engine available with the SS and it was available ONLY with the SS option. That is how a '72 cannot be cloned. I hope that answers your question
Ben

[taz3]

Being original makes it worth a little more,cause there are no surprises,you know what your buying.When they import Cali cars up here they start at $5000 and go up from there,so your not out of the ball park IMO.